What's new

Travel Trailer woes

What error do you get on the controller? If the controller detects a problem it's likely nothing is going to be sent out the controller, manually or via inertia.
"OPEN GROUND - NO BRAKES"
Usually the screen is green. When I connect to the trailer the screen turns red and that is the error message displayed.
When I connect to the pop up the screen stays green and no error code comes up.
 
Last edited:
So for trailer lights your left and right turn also double as brake lights. This is why it makes zero sense that you tapped into the brake lights for anything.
I was wrong in what I stated earlier. The brake light wire was tapped into near the controller up front. That's where the brake controller gets it's signal that I'm hitting the brakes, and then in turn it sends voltage down the blue to the rear.
The only thing I can think of is you need a tail light converter for most Japanese vehicle as they have separate brake and turn signals. If OP hasn’t converted his tail lights, that may also be a problem.
Even with the pop up, when I would hit the turn signal for left or right both would flash. Same thing with TT. Just sends the signal to both right and left regardless of which side you activate.
I looked into that and apparently there's something you can buy to replace a little part inside the rear panel passenger side of the 4runner that can fix it but I never bothered with it because I don't change lanes and am happy parked in the right lane every trip.

Hoping to see my neighbor and try his truck and TT, then will focus on whether it's the camper or my truck.
 
I was wrong in what I stated earlier. The brake light wire was tapped into near the controller up front. That's where the brake controller gets it's signal that I'm hitting the brakes, and then in turn it sends voltage down the blue to the rear.

Even with the pop up, when I would hit the turn signal for left or right both would flash. Same thing with TT. Just sends the signal to both right and left regardless of which side you activate.
I looked into that and apparently there's something you can buy to replace a little part inside the rear panel passenger side of the 4runner that can fix it but I never bothered with it because I don't change lanes and am happy parked in the right lane every trip.

Hoping to see my neighbor and try his truck and TT, then will focus on whether it's the camper or my truck.

I think at this point you need to take the truck and trailer to a professional and let them handle it.
 
"OPEN GROUND - NO BRAKES"
Usually the screen is green. When I connect to the trailer the screen turns red and that is the error message displayed.
When I connect to the pop up the screen stays green and no error code comes up.


You f’d up the wiring. You’ve been given great advice but keep ignoring it.
 
"OPEN GROUND - NO BRAKES"
Usually the screen is green. When I connect to the trailer the screen turns red and that is the error message displayed.
When I connect to the pop up the screen stays green and no error code comes up.
Assuming the system fails the "startup" test due to no continuity through the brake (at least 1) magnets.

If it where me at this point I think I'd jumper the blue brake wire to the ground on the truck side of the 7 pin. You should then possibly get a "shorted fault" but at minimum not the "open" you are getting now.

It's possible your 0 ohm ground is not actually connected to the battery negative.
 
I was going to suggest testing the brakes 100% independent from the truck. Apply power and ground to see if they work, eliminate as many connections as possible.
like crawl under the trailer with a battery and test.

an M12 battery will work.
It's reckless to assume but I thought he said the trailer was working properly on other vehicles, definitely easy to test by itself though.
 
I think at this point you need to take the truck and trailer to a professional and let them handle it.
If I have neighbor hook up to it, and if I hook up to another TT, that will narrow it down.
At that point, I'll go back through this thread and do every diagnostic, be it for truck or trailer.
Then I'll be ready to take one or the other or both to a reputable guy.
You f’d up the wiring.
Explain how the truck makes the pop up brakes work perfect if the wiring is f'd?
How could that happen? Serious question.
It's possible your 0 ohm ground is not actually connected to the battery negative.
At the bumper? I hit it with one lead while hitting the other lead against a jumper cable connected to battery negative.
At the front, with controller, same thing. One lead on white, one lead on jumper from battery. Ohms .001
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
So… 2 random Toyota tidbits. One true one rumor. My 4th gen 4runner had a funky factory taillight setup where all the power is linked through all the bulb sockets. We would put the blinker on and it would feed power to the reverse lights, lights would come on the dash, it was very strange, the car thought it was supposed to be going in reverse. Not sure of this has been mentioned or checked or is even a thing on your 3rd gen.

Number 2. Heard a rumor that Toyota’s are wired differently from the factory than all other vehicles as far as trailer wiring goes, but I think that one’s out since you said it works fine with your other trailer.

Just some rambling input. I was thinking about that today and just had a chance to post.
 
So… 2 random Toyota tidbits. One true one rumor. My 4th gen 4runner had a funky factory taillight setup where all the power is linked through all the bulb sockets. We would put the blinker on and it would feed power to the reverse lights, lights would come on the dash, it was very strange, the car thought it was supposed to be going in reverse. Not sure of this has been mentioned or checked or is even a thing on your 3rd gen.

Number 2. Heard a rumor that Toyota’s are wired differently from the factory than all other vehicles as far as trailer wiring goes, but I think that one’s out since you said it works fine with your other trailer.

Just some rambling input. I was thinking about that today and just had a chance to post.
But it doesn’t work fine with his other trailer. He implied that it did, but later admitted that he’s never had working turn signals.
 
Explain how the truck makes the pop up brakes work perfect if the wiring is f'd?
How could that happen? Serious question.

You keep assuming the trailers are wired identical.

Get a damned test light and test the circuits on the truck and trailer.

The time it would take to do that is less than you’ll spend f’ing around with different trucks and trailers
 
It's reckless to assume but I thought he said the trailer was working properly on other vehicles, definitely easy to test by itself though.
I might have missed that, I have been in and out of this thread, seems like it's easy trial and error troubleshooting, start at the brakes and keep working towards the truck until you find the problem.
 
If I have neighbor hook up to it, and if I hook up to another TT, that will narrow it down.
At that point, I'll go back through this thread and do every diagnostic, be it for truck or trailer.
Then I'll be ready to take one or the other or both to a reputable guy.

Explain how the truck makes the pop up brakes work perfect if the wiring is f'd?
How could that happen? Serious question.

At the bumper? I hit it with one lead while hitting the other lead against a jumper cable connected to battery negative.
At the front, with controller, same thing. One lead on white, one lead on jumper from battery. Ohms .001


Quit wasting time.

Your poop up may have worked because it's got way smaller brakes on a single axle. 2 small brakes vs 4 larger ones.

What size wire are you using for the brakes? It may be as simple as way too small a wire. 10ga is generally recommended for up to 3 axles.

Your turn signals don't work and you just now stated that. Remember the whole "if you can't tow safely don't tow at all".
Always treat your trailer as if your family is behind you. Way too close and not paying attention. Everything needs to work correctly, be secured correctly, and nothing can go wrong.

The problem is your 4 runner. You need to figure out the lights and brakes. It's not hard, just tedious. Check every pin, get rid of corrosion, and you'll figure it out.
 
Quit wasting time.

Your poop up may have worked because it's got way smaller brakes on a single axle. 2 small brakes vs 4 larger ones.

The problem is your 4 runner.
Update:
My neighbor came home. I drove my 4runner to his house and hooked up my connection to his huge 5th wheel.
And verdict...zero errors, brakes worked perfect, everything green. No open ground, no issues at all.

So much for the I "f'd the wiring" on my truck, right?

I think we can all agree at this point the problem is with the TT right now. Tomorrow when it's light out I'll go over a few things on it and then take it to a trusted guy in town if I can't get it done.
 
Update:
My neighbor came home. I drove my 4runner to his house and hooked up my connection to his huge 5th wheel.
And verdict...zero errors, brakes worked perfect, everything green. No open ground, no issues at all.

So much for the I "f'd the wiring" on my truck, right?

I think we can all agree at this point the problem is with the TT right now. Tomorrow when it's light out I'll go over a few things on it and then take it to a trusted guy in town if I can't get it done.
Sounds like it will get easier to fix.
Run new wire if there is doubt. Id run 10 ga for each power and ground.
 
Update:
My neighbor came home. I drove my 4runner to his house and hooked up my connection to his huge 5th wheel.
And verdict...zero errors, brakes worked perfect, everything green. No open ground, no issues at all.

So much for the I "f'd the wiring" on my truck, right?

I think we can all agree at this point the problem is with the TT right now. Tomorrow when it's light out I'll go over a few things on it and then take it to a trusted guy in town if I can't get it done.

Did the turn signals work? Or did you even check?

And you still don't know if you can run the brakes. Not like you could hook to the 5th and do a real brake check :laughing:
 
Did the turn signals work? Or did you even check?

And you still don't know if you can run the brakes. Not like you could hook to the 5th and do a real brake check :laughing:
Did not check the turn signals. No need to because it's 100% certain that they will not work because I have not bought the converter required to make it right. See the following:



While true that I didn't pull the 5th wheel, my controller didn't pop the red screen or throw any errors. It stayed green and showed voltage just like it does when connected to the pop up. And, unfortunately, that neighbor sold his truck so I couldn't confirm whether or not his truck would work the brakes on my TT. Waiting on a different neighbor just to see it for myself.
 
Stop worrying about other people's trailers or other people's trucks connected to your trailer.

Have you checked voltage at the plug, have you checked voltage at the brakes? Have you cleaned up and reconneced grounds?

Fix your trailer, connected to your vehicle.
 
Stop worrying about other people's trailers or other people's trucks connected to your trailer.

Have you checked voltage at the plug, have you checked voltage at the brakes? Have you cleaned up and reconneced grounds?

Fix your trailer, connected to your vehicle.

Haven't you noticed, it's far easier to bounce around and not figure out the actual problem? :laughing:
 
Stop worrying about other people's trailers or other people's trucks connected to your trailer.

Have you checked voltage at the plug, have you checked voltage at the brakes? Have you cleaned up and reconneced grounds?

Fix your trailer, connected to your vehicle.
No, I haven't. I don't really know what I'm doing to check voltage at the brakes.
Clean up and reconnect grounds? I don't even know where all the grounds are at.
The voltage at plug if not connected shows good on my truck. Not sure how to check while it's connected to trailer.
Haven't you noticed, it's far easier to bounce around and not figure out the actual problem? :laughing:
I know. I'm sorry. It's a bit overwhelming. I got so much going on and trying to knock out things I know first before venturing into the unknown and having to learn + do.

I successfully moved the battery box and got the WDH hitch done. I'm about to sell the old pop up. Thank you for all the input so far, but understand that a lot of the times you guys say things, some of it goes over my head because I lack experience and knowledge in wiring and grounding and I've never had a travel trailer before or ever had to work on my old pop up so it's all new to me.

Break my balls, it's all good, but bear with me. I rebuilt the headgasket on my 4runner all on my own so I'm not a complete waste of time.
Thank you for your responses, shit talking and advice both. :beer:
 
Buy a surge brake coupler. Boat people are dumb as rocks and manage to keep them working ~50% of the time. Since you're a Toyota guy I figure you'll have them working about 25% of the time. Which is better than the 0% you currently have. :flipoff2:

As an aside, surge brake calipers have the highest grade stainless pistons I've ever seen used in a brake system.
 
Did not check the turn signals. No need to because it's 100% certain that they will not work because I have not bought the converter required to make it right.




While true that I didn't pull the 5th wheel, my controller didn't pop the red screen or throw any errors. It stayed green and showed voltage just like it does when connected to the pop up. And, unfortunately, that neighbor sold his truck so I couldn't confirm whether or not his truck would work the brakes on my TT. Waiting on a different neighbor just to see it for myself.

You have no idea if you need that converter or not until you test the circuits. In the 1/2 dozen or so 4Runners and Tacomas I've added 7-pin connectors to, I've never used that converter.

And you have no idea if the brakes work after your test because you didn't even test them... you only know that something is different.

Get a dang test light... You could have had all of this resolved in < 60 minutes.
 
SOLVED.

It was the damned brake controller. All ground wiring was perfect on truck and trailer, this entire thing has been a goose chase thanks to a faulty code spit out by this controller. Unplugged my P3, plugged in a P2 and bam - everything perfect.

Been 5 years since purchase, so time to see what the company says when I submit a claim.
 
you still haven't tested any of the circuits on the truck or trailer, have you?
 
you still haven't tested any of the circuits on the truck or trailer, have you?
Nope. Not me because I'm not an expert. But everything was tested for 2 hours by a pro. All good.

I hope Tekonsha is as good as people say they are.
Their phones are down so I needed to submit a claim online and now waiting to hear back and hoping a new one is on it's way.
 
SOLVED.

It was the damned brake controller. All ground wiring was perfect on truck and trailer, this entire thing has been a goose chase thanks to a faulty code spit out by this controller. Unplugged my P3, plugged in a P2 and bam - everything perfect.

Been 5 years since purchase, so time to see what the company says when I submit a claim.
I'm not digging back through all the various threads, but 5 years isn't unreasonable lifespan and many moons ago do believe it was "they do go bad some times"

:flipoff2:

Glad you got success with the issue
 
Top Back Refresh