Trailer rehab

[pennsylvaniaboy]

^^^ that jack handle adapter is cool, I rarely tow without a my 1/2" impact, I even have a bottle jack setup to run off the impact. Do you think one of those jacks will hold up to a 1/2" impact driving them?

 

[arse_sidewards]

^^^ that jack handle adapter is cool, I rarely tow without a my 1/2" impact, I even have a bottle jack setup to run off the impact. Do you think one of those jacks will hold up to a 1/2" impact driving them?

Anyone who habitually caries an impact probably lacks the self control to not use the impact when the trailer is heavily loaded enough that doing so would strip the nut.

So no.

 

[Dan]

Make a drill adapter for the jack and lose the handle. I made a drill adapter for my GN trailer. I got tired of running that jack up n down by hand.


Similar to this but to fit your jack screw.

I don't have a problem with the heck handle but I can see something like that making it's way on to the jack.

 

[Dan]

Anyone who habitually caries an impact probably lacks the self control to not use the impact when the trailer is heavily loaded enough that doing so would strip the nut.

So no.

Hey wait, I habitually carry a 1/2" impact

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Hey wait, I habitually carry a 1/2" impact

Right....what is that supposed to mean??

 

[Dan]

Picked up some 4" combo binders.

 

[Dan]

I cut into the channel a little bit on the top to sink them in.

Then welded them on. 4 on the front side and another 2 behind the axles.

I wish I had thought to do this when I had the decking off. I had a soaking wet rag on the wood deck to keep it from burning up while welding.

 

[Dan]

I cut some 1/4" flatbar into pieces for the opposite side.

Then bent them all.

 

[Dan]

Welded to the rails on the curb side.

Opposite to the binders on the street side.

 

[[memphis]]

Disappointed this isn't a fluxcore build

 

[arse_sidewards]

Disappointed this isn't a fluxcore build

The pretty welds make up for cutting the web of a structural channel.

 

[Dan]

The pretty welds make up for cutting the web of a structural channel.

That's the flange not the web.

 

[arse_sidewards]

That's the flange not the web.

You know what I meant.

 

[Tinstar]

^^^ that jack handle adapter is cool, I rarely tow without a my 1/2" impact, I even have a bottle jack setup to run off the impact. Do you think one of those jacks will hold up to a 1/2" impact driving them?

Nope, I think an impact will kill the jack screw and or the nut in short order. I use a 1/2" drill on low range power setting.

 

[Dan]

You know what I meant.

I'm only worried about the one right in front of the axles, the other ones are supported by the tongue subframe. The rear is obviously not but I can live with that.

It's not like I cut out part of the channel and left it alone, those combo binders are 3/8" and welded all the way around.

 

[Dan]

Anyway that got me thinking that I should reinforce that area. Thanks arse hole

So I cut some 5" channel.

I'm going to extend the subframe on this side by about 16" to help support the upper structure. I'll keep in eye on the rear section next time I load a car up.

Now I'm tempted to pick up some 7018s or switch out to flux core and weld it up for you non believers

 

[[memphis]]

You can weld a hell of a lot nicer than I. I posted up in a critic thread and someone bitched about me welding casters on inside of bolting them LOL

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

My channel runs all the way to the spring mount.

 

[Dan]

My channel runs all the way to the spring mount.

The channel is further outboard than the spring mount and gets into the tire if I go much further.

 

[Dan]

I started working on the binder bar last night.

1.75"x.120 hrew and some random wrench thing I found.

 

[Dan]

Then notched and drilled the tube and proceeded to stack some boogers.

I think it's about 26 inches long. If I need more leverage I can slide a piece of 1.5" tube in the end to make it longer. I think it's a good length though.

 

[aczlan]

That's way too long, you only want the small part to be just long enough to stick out a little bit past the far side of the binder.
That way you just push it in all the way and pull down. As it is now you're always going to be hitting the far side on the trailer.

Aaron Z

 

[TRINDU]

Should've ran the rail all the way to the spring hanger. Now you've created a weak point that will bend if overloaded. Had to fix a friend GN made of 6" channel that suffered the same fate.

I dont understand what you primarily use the trailer for? Pallets? Pipe?

For vehicles/tractors I want a pocket/spool every 1 foot and I see no tie downs on yours. Nice fab work, I just dont see the vision.

The tracks wouldve been badass on the outer rails like so:

 

[Dan]

Should've ran the rail all the way to the spring hanger. Now you've created a weak point that will bend if overloaded. Had to fix a friend GN made of 6" channel that suffered the same fate.

I haven't welded it yet. I can still tie it in to the spring hanger with plate or by mitering the channel to turn in at the tire. If I run the channel all the way straight to the hanger it will rub the tire. The passenger side is going to stay the way it is so I guess that will be the weak point.

I dont understand what you primarily use the trailer for? Pallets? Pipe?

I bought the trailer to tow cars but that's what I use it for the least. It's just a general purpose trailer I guess.

For vehicles/tractors I want a pocket/spool every 1 foot and I see no tie downs on yours. Nice fab work, I just dont see the vision.

The placement of the binders is just based off times I have used the trailer and thought that I could use one there.
If the trailer was a deck over I would have added rub rails with stake pockets every foot and put the binders on sliders on the opposing side.

The tracks wouldve been badass on the outer rails like so:

I agree, and I almost did that initially. The way I have the tracks now allows the junk vehicles I tow to leak right through the holes in the middle.

 

[Dan]

That's way too long, you only want the small part to be just long enough to stick out a little bit past the far side of the binder.
That way you just push it in all the way and pull down. As it is now you're always going to be hitting the far side on the trailer.

Aaron Z

That makes sense, easy fix too. Thanks for the advice, it will be implemented. I noticed that a lot of bars are the way you described, I only left it long because I was trying to keep the part that said USA.

 

[PAToyota]

Welded to the rails on the curb side.

Opposite to the binders on the street side.

I'd think you'd want those reversed - so you could tighten things down without dodging traffic. Granted, you're not likely to be using the binders if you have to get a vehicle off the shoulder of a highway, but still...

 

[Dan]

I'd think you'd want those reversed - so you could tighten things down without dodging traffic. Granted, you're not likely to be using the binders if you have to get a vehicle off the shoulder of a highway, but still...

I've always put my ratchet straps & chain binders on the driver side so I can see them easier from behind the wheel.

 

[PAToyota]

Ok, that makes sense. I've just had times alongside the highway where I was praying I wasn't going to die...

 

[Dan]

Haven't had a chance to work on this lately but I used it the other day to pick up another project. The box is really nice. I was able to fit a winch, 20' jumper cables, binder bar, six 20' long 4" straps, 40' worth of 3/8" chain, 4 chain binders, and a set of mac's tie down straps with room for more.

 

[Dan]

I did this about the same time as the toolbox but forgot to post it.


The junkyard had a huge pile of scissor jacks they were selling for .99¢ each so for $2 I bought a couple.

Welded on a 1/2" nut so I can lower and raise them with my impact.

Then welded them to the rear rails.