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Toyota Ring and Pinion Gear Thread

Provience

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I have an idea but not a good direction :homer: Trying to establish a thread with FAQ style information for Toyota differentials.

Guess i'll just start typing and see where it ends up. saving this first post to edit and add more information as i figure out what makes sense to go here.

http://gearinstalls.com/

everybody should always go to gear installs .com first and foremost. Zuk is awesome :beer:

this would also make a good thread for people to post their "hey, check my pattern" pictures and such
 

Provience

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Here are a few pictures as we journeyed to the center, mostly, of an 8" diff with an ARB.

IMG_3101.JPG


This would be why they are coming apart, as well as to get regeared from the existing 5.29 ratio. The major concerns are, did the destruction cause any damage to anything important, bearings and such, and does the rust and corrosion from sitting get in to anything that matters. Best way to find out is to pull it all apart.

IMG_3104.JPG


9/16" on the bulkhead fitting with a 10mm on the inside to free up the air line. Two different diff's here, two different style fittings.

IMG_3105.JPG


IMG_3106.JPG


12mm to remove the side bearing locks

IMG_3110.JPG


...
 

Provience

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two different styles of ARB here, one uses the hex key screws

IMG_3108.JPG


The other uses a snap ring of sorts

IMG_3128.JPG


large wrench, screwdriver and 3 hands worked. turns out, i prefer the allen key style

IMG_3130.JPG


pops off the air supply side

IMG_3109.JPG


14mm to remove the carried side gear caps

IMG_3110.JPG
...
 

Provience

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always mark your caps :rasta: and try not to drop the carrier on your foot. personally, I don't think most caps or bearing care if they go back in the same place so long as you can get them lined up properly and there isn't excessive wear in the races, but your mileage may vary.

IMG_3111.JPG


with the carrier out, time to bend down the little bolt lock flaps. these are optional, red locktite also works well. 17mm in the impact makes quick work of these

IMG_3112.JPG


hammer to pop off the ring gear. I prefer to start with the soft hammer and move to the hard hammer as needed.

IMG_3113.JPG


these were 5.29 gears with 37 teeth on the ring and 7 on the pinion with other stuff that means things to people smarter than me

IMG_3114.JPG


ring gear is all that holds this half of the carrier together

IMG_3115.JPG
 

Provience

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here you can see that inside it looks just like a typical open carrier, with the addition of the super beef gears to lock the side gears together

IMG_3116.JPG


here is the carrier after hitting it with a wire wheel. all the corrosion cleaned up pretty well. no real significant pitting to be concerned about, certainly not as pretty as brand new.
IMG_3117.JPG


Time to remove the pinion gear, anything to hold the flange makes life easy and a couple pieces of flat bar and 3 bolts works really well. 30mm pinion nut

IMG_3118.JPG


IMG_3119.JPG
Upload failed due to your usergroup's upload quota. This file will require 891.4 KB but you only have 663.4 KB of 23.84 MB remaining.
OK

welll....damn
 

Provience

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Welp, in the interest of finishing out my teardown i'm going to just use placeholders until the picture limit thing is sorted :rasta:

Some gentle hammering finishes sending the pinion out of the case.

IMG_3119.JPG


This particular setup was done using 0.072" of shim on the solid spacer for preload, so we'll start with that when going back together

IMG_3120.JPG


Next is removing the front bearing off the pinion. the shims for pinion depth are located between the head and this bearing, press makes the job easy, but i've done several with the hammer. putting the pinion nut back on while hammering helps prevent mushrooming

IMG_3121.JPG


the pinion depth shim stack was 0.067"

IMG_3123.JPG


Seals pullers really do work well. Remove the seal so we can check out the upper or tail or whatever, the smaller pinion bearing

IMG_3124.JPG
 
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Provience

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Shot down the pinion hole, you can see where the housing had cutouts so that the races can be replaced and the thick washer/oil shield on the right hand side. All these bearings and races appear to have no damage, so that's good news :smokin:

IMG_3125.JPG


and now that we are happy with how all the bearings look, time to order up parts :rasta:

1) Ring and pinion gears

2) pinion seals

3) pinion nuts

4) shims <-i've got a few, but more is always better

going to reuse the bearings, because they are in just dandy condition and reuse the hardware, because none of it is torque to yield. Once parts show up, we will journey the other way and see if we can get a reasonable pattern.
 
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Provience

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pictures for comparison sake, crush sleeve vs aftermarket solid spacer. substantial difference in beef. i like the machined spacers over the cast ones, mostly because they look better

IMG_3134.JPG


difference between the V6 and 4cyl diff's? Carrier bearings.


IMG_3132.JPG

also, the V6 housing is ribbed for her pleasure

IMG_3133.JPG


This is what a V6 open carrier looks like. fancy 4 pinion 2 piece case construction. here you can see the 2 cross shaft ends. Is it better than the 4cyl style? Yeah, sure. is it a Detroit? no

IMG_3125.JPG


V6 case bolts

IMG_3126.JPG
 
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Provience

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This is what the 4cyl open carrier looks like. this one has been welded and destroyed, but the look is very different than the V6 open carrier

IMG_3127.JPG


and i need to track down a couple other threads so that i can add my adventure with drilling open and trying to figure out a way to load bolts an 8" (there is simply no good way to do it without being specific to one exact set of gears. swap gears and you'd need to change the whole setup) as well as bring over some pictures of the 9.5" stuff i've got
 
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Provience

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Pics no work

yeah apparently i've hit some sort of limit for posting pictures. i've still got a ton of pictures i want to put up and figured that since i'd already started the thread i would just charge ahead and i'll add in pictures when the limit issue get's resolved.
 
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Thefishguy77

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Big thanks man for helping me get this done. There is no way I could do this one solo. It was great meeting your family as well. If you want when I come back over for setup I can bring a 7.5” over I have as well if we want to tare that down for pics as well.
 

Provience

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Big thanks man for helping me get this done. There is no way I could do this one solo. It was great meeting your family as well. If you want when I come back over for setup I can bring a 7.5” over I have as well if we want to tare that down for pics as well.

sure thing, if you don't need it, i'll add it to my stack of 3rd parts :beer:
 

Roc Doc

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This was from a thread I started back in 2010.

What brand of 8" Gears have you broken?Edit
  • Yukon Gear

    Votes: 4531.7%
  • US Gear

    Votes: 64.2%
  • Genuine Gear

    Votes: 3021.1%
  • Motive Gear

    Votes: 128.5%
  • Precision Gear

    Votes: 2014.1%
  • Factory

    Votes: 6243.7%
  • Other (please specify in your post)

    Votes: 17
 

Aisin

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This was from a thread I started back in 2010.


The best gears you can get for Toyota is the G2 brand. They are double shot peened and lapped. This is from ZUK himself.
 

YotaAtieToo

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USE A SOLID PINION SPACER!


Only thing I can add from personal experience is don't use a lunch box in a V6 carrier, the side gears are very thin and weak, same goes for the elockers. I would never put an E-Locker into a crawler again, so much wasted time and money.

Can anyone elaborate on the 4.88s being stronger than 5.29s? Most people say they are, but I've heard quite a few reputable people say they aren't.
 

Provience

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USE A SOLID PINION SPACER!


Only thing I can add from personal experience is don't use a lunch box in a V6 carrier, the side gears are very thin and weak, same goes for the elockers. I would never put an E-Locker into a crawler again, so much wasted time and money.

Can anyone elaborate on the 4.88s being stronger than 5.29s? Most people say they are, but I've heard quite a few reputable people say they aren't.

can't speak to the 488 vs 529, i ran 529 for a while and never really broke and wasn't really surprised any time they did break. they held up really well to the milsurp tires :laughing:

as for the spacer, had a first today:

plopped a solid spacer on and it didn't go as far as i thought :confused:

IMG_3153.JPG



tried the other spacer, went on no problem.


IMG_3154.JPG



after digging around a bit, turns out the fat side was ~0.002" too small. it fit on the "old" 5.29 gears, wouldn't fit the new gears. about 5 or 8 minutes with some 220 grit until it went on fine

started at 0.074" of shims, worked my way down to 0.061" to get ~8 in-lbs of preload

IMG_3155.JPG
 

Provience

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now for some pictures that didn't turn out, but what the hell, i'll pop them up here anyways

Ended up with 0.084" of pinion shim to get this pattern

Drive, centered from the root to the top, but hanging off the heel on the drive side. couldn't get it to move to the toe regardless of what i tried, so there it stays

IMG_3146.JPG


coast

IMG_3147.JPG



and i used a piece of cardboard to dray out my patterns so that i could remember what they were and what they looked like without having to try and pull out the camera or whatever.

0.086" worth of shim, drive was low and heel, coast was about a half moon

IMG_3151.JPG


and then i went to 0.080" worth of shim, drive was just a square on the top half of the heel, coast was also just a flash on the top 1/4 or 1/3 or so

IMG_3152.JPG
 

Provience

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8" ARB carrier, Marlin/yukon 5.29 gears, this time with 0.086" pinion shim and 0.051" pinion bearing preload shim for ~6 inlbs. backlash 0.006-0.008" depending on what the gauge wants to show

IMG_3156.JPG


IMG_3157.JPG
 

Aisin

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Awesome work man!

ZUKs the man as well!!

Yes he is. He did a high pinion 3rd for me about 13 years ago. 2 years ago I put a locker in the front of my brothers 4Runner. I had never fucked with a clamshell type diff. I called him up and told him who I was. He had no problem giving me tips on completing the install over the phone.
 

Mr Stubs

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Pro tip:

Add just a drip of oil to your yellow gear set up paste. It helps loosen it up and gives a better pattern.

Make sure to have drag while rotating the gear set when looking for your pattern. I like to use a box end wrench on a ring gear bolt to rotate the ring gear and my hand on the output flange. I go back and fourth in and through the paint multiple times to get a highly visible pattern.
 
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