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Feel free to add your tech HERE!
Try and keep it somewhat organized!
Try and keep it somewhat organized!
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Provience
Kill!
i think you are better off starting a new one. the old one has been in need of maint. for a while.
I'll go ahead and
the brake bible i put together the other day, built off a few different threads I had and sort of cleaned up and combined. I gave reference and credit for the people i quoted
https://www.forum.4x4north.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=200
edit: i still need to add rear brake information as that thread is pretty heavily focused on front brakes, but it just takes time and effort
I'll go ahead and
the brake bible i put together the other day, built off a few different threads I had and sort of cleaned up and combined. I gave reference and credit for the people i quotedhttps://www.forum.4x4north.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=200
edit: i still need to add rear brake information as that thread is pretty heavily focused on front brakes, but it just takes time and effort
Deleted Member
Guest
We need Steveh and 4runnerrick up in here...
Provience
Kill!
basically.hell, even just a "basic tech of the week", pick a topic, feed it for a week, and it to the FAQ. with even moderate participation, it can build pretty quick. i'm sure i'm not the only person with pictures and such on my computer still of all sorts of random things.
Deleted Member
Guest
hell, even just a "basic tech of the week", pick a topic, feed it for a week, and it to the FAQ. with even moderate participation, it can build pretty quick. i'm sure i'm not the only person with pictures and such on my computer still of all sorts of random things.
Yah, your right... I have pics back to the year 2000 with a ton of random builds and whatnot... highsteer, spring packs, even a bunch of IFS junk. :p
Lemme change the post text... good IDEA!
Provience
Kill!
https://www.forum.4x4north.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=233
In addition to the brake bible up there, here is a bunch of wiring/buggy/propane/EFI swap/20r 22r 22re 2rz 3rz 3vz-e 5vz stuff
https://irate4x4.com/forum/brand-spe...rz-3rz-3vz-5vz also available at this link
In addition to the brake bible up there, here is a bunch of wiring/buggy/propane/EFI swap/20r 22r 22re 2rz 3rz 3vz-e 5vz stuff
https://irate4x4.com/forum/brand-spe...rz-3rz-3vz-5vz also available at this link
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Provience
Kill!
https://irate4x4.com/toyota/20872-toyota-ring-and-pinion-gear-thread
ring and pinion thread, post your CHECK MY GEAR PATTERN info in here
ring and pinion thread, post your CHECK MY GEAR PATTERN info in here
Provience
Kill!
dead link removed, what happened to the fuel tank swap thread??
cheap fuel tank options for under bed relocation
cheap fuel tank options for under bed relocation
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Provience
Kill!
https://irate4x4.com/toyota/220891-w...for-high-steer
What to do for HIGH STEER BEEF!
https://trail-gear.com/catalog/produ...x-shooter-kit/
trail gear 6 shooters, fully loaded
https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/key...ing-arms-flat/
front range offroad keyed steering arms, custom holes and height options available
https://trail-gear.com/axles/trunnio...nator-kit.html
trail gear trunnion bearing eliminator
https://www.marlincrawler.com/steeri...in-upgrade-kit
marlin crawler 25mm steering pin upgrade
and obviously the cheapest and best (in my opinion which is heavily biased due to the price) 5th stud it with scrap you have in the garage
edit: "how to 5th stud"
Draw a line along the casting marks where it is mostly flat and easy to drill
Drill your hole for your bolt that you are using. 1/2"? sure, sounds good to me.
With your bolt as a guide, tighten down a nut and weld it in place, doesn't need to be anything crazy, just enough to keep it from spinning.
Install the knuckle, tension it properly now or later, i try to set the preload first because it makes me feel better. then put some flat plate down, 1/8" or better or whatever you have laying around
and then connect your plate to your steering arm. It can be like this, it can be along the length like a wide piece of angle, it can be super long to get good leverage, the options are limitless. Don't try to just use a piece of regular angle stock because it isn't 90* between surfaces, if you do use angle stock, get a thick piece (1/4"?) so that you can grind the hell out of it and make the angles match
What to do for HIGH STEER BEEF!
https://trail-gear.com/catalog/produ...x-shooter-kit/
trail gear 6 shooters, fully loaded
https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/key...ing-arms-flat/
front range offroad keyed steering arms, custom holes and height options available
https://trail-gear.com/axles/trunnio...nator-kit.html
trail gear trunnion bearing eliminator
https://www.marlincrawler.com/steeri...in-upgrade-kit
marlin crawler 25mm steering pin upgrade
and obviously the cheapest and best (in my opinion which is heavily biased due to the price) 5th stud it with scrap you have in the garage
edit: "how to 5th stud"
Draw a line along the casting marks where it is mostly flat and easy to drill
Drill your hole for your bolt that you are using. 1/2"? sure, sounds good to me.
With your bolt as a guide, tighten down a nut and weld it in place, doesn't need to be anything crazy, just enough to keep it from spinning.
Install the knuckle, tension it properly now or later, i try to set the preload first because it makes me feel better. then put some flat plate down, 1/8" or better or whatever you have laying around
and then connect your plate to your steering arm. It can be like this, it can be along the length like a wide piece of angle, it can be super long to get good leverage, the options are limitless. Don't try to just use a piece of regular angle stock because it isn't 90* between surfaces, if you do use angle stock, get a thick piece (1/4"?) so that you can grind the hell out of it and make the angles match
Last edited:
cchambers13
Trail Whale
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 2186
- Messages
- 102
Broken E-Locker side gear
Early (88-90) V6 side gears are Toyota Part Number 41331-35040 which 8in elockers (low and high pinion) use on the non actuator side. This can only be bought in a $300-500 kit of all the side/spider gears. Used to be $60 individually new but NLA individually.
Later (90+) V6 side gears are Toyota Part Number 41331-35011, same as FJ80 High pinion, Tacoma, 4runner etc. without locker also 4cyl diffs 85+. Also NLA individually in the states but can find sellers outside US.
So what do you do?
41039-34060 Spider/Side gear kit from Toyota can be found in Dubai... for a couple hundred bucks and has the near impossible to find actuator side gear with splines. Pretty steep for diff gears but is cheaper than another elocker.
Early (88-90) V6 side gears are Toyota Part Number 41331-35040 which 8in elockers (low and high pinion) use on the non actuator side. This can only be bought in a $300-500 kit of all the side/spider gears. Used to be $60 individually new but NLA individually.
Later (90+) V6 side gears are Toyota Part Number 41331-35011, same as FJ80 High pinion, Tacoma, 4runner etc. without locker also 4cyl diffs 85+. Also NLA individually in the states but can find sellers outside US.
So what do you do?
41039-34060 Spider/Side gear kit from Toyota can be found in Dubai... for a couple hundred bucks and has the near impossible to find actuator side gear with splines. Pretty steep for diff gears but is cheaper than another elocker.
rattlewagon dropped these in my post RUF life... Thought they should be here as well.
LEAF SPRING LENGTH CHARTS, MULTIPLE BRANDS
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rattlewagon
shitboxin
Clb
another toyota from P.R.K
Toy power steering pump upgrade.
Not mine...
Reposted with permission from the op on the old place...
#1 · May 29, 2015
Disclaimer #1 - I just did this tonight so it has not actually been tested, I don't see any reason why it would not help but I wont be able to test it until I get the rest of my full hydro setup done which will be about a month.
Disclaimer #2 Yes I know TC pumps are cheap and easy...but polishing this turd is cheaper and easier and I am curious how far I can push a Toy pump. Plus I have a motor swap planned in the fairly near future and I can go with a different pump at that time if this does not work out.
What is stage 3 you ask? well stage 1 and 2 are the higher pressure and output flow mods that are already documented here. The problem with the output flow mod is it results in pump noise for a lot of people who do it. This is most likely being caused by lack of sufficient flow into the pump. Just for fun and because I had an extra pump that was no good laying around I took it apart to see if there were any restriction or areas where flow could be improved on the intake side of things. Here is what I found.
ID of hose from reservoir .630
ID of hose barb on intake fitting .540
neck down area of hose barb .420
Leg of intake fitting that goes into pump .390
vertical passage in pump .390
horizontal passage in pump .466
I think we can all see where the problem is. A quick look at some hose selection charts show that the 5/8" hose should be getting the job done assuming these pumps are putting out no more than about 3GPM with the flow mod. The problem is the restrictions in the pump and fitting. The one thing that cannot be changed is the size of the horizontal passage, there is not enough meat to drill it out any bigger so our limiting factor is .466". Lets take a look at what opening up the small passages to .466 does to our flow
passage size---area in sq in
.390-----------.12
.466-----------.17
This does not sound like much until you do the math and realize that it is a 42% increase in flow!!
Luckily Toyota built just enough material into the tight areas to drill them all out to .466 or 15/32 which is actually .4688 but it is close enough.
This mod requires completely disassembling your pump which is actually not as scary as it sounds. Follow along and I will walk you through it, and give detailed instructions on how to do the other two mods.
EDIT: I started thinking about how bad of an idea it is to put this thing back together with 30 year old o-rings..Turns out a seal kit is only $17 from Oreily so I guess I will be taking this thing back apart again and doing it right. I will post up the part number latter today when I get it.
#2 · May 29, 2015
#1 Needles to say you will have to remove your pump from your truck. On it you will find 30 years worth of built up crap. Clean it off!! Cleanliness is vital to this project. When you think it is clean, clean it some more, make sure you get all the nooks and crannies.
#2 Mark the two halves so you can put them back together in the correct orientation, don't be a dumbass like me and use a paint pen, we will be washing parts down with brake clean latter and guess what happens to paint when you hit it with brake clean
use a punch to make some permanent marks.
#3 Remove the four bolts that hold the two halves of the pump together. You can do this without removing the pulley if you have the right tools, which in this case is this little adapter that allows you to turn a socket with a closed end wrench. The bolts are very tight and they are locktighted in. The casting is too close to two of the bolts to crack them with a box end and you will probably round off the heads with an open end. A socket is the right tool for the job but there is not enough room for a ratchet with the pulley on. I cant remember where I got these but it harbor freight sells something similar
3 Piece Square Drive Socket Caps
#3 · May 29, 2015
#4 With all of the bolts out flip the pump over so the pulley is down and give it a light tap on the bench to make sure the right parts are loose. lift the back half off (pic 1) and you should have what is shown in the second pic. Leave the front half of the pump assembled as shown and set it aside somewhere clean and away from your work area.
#5 Take note of the orientation of the shiny bit in the back half of the pump (pic 3), you can't really mark it so look for some small detail and take a picture or make a note of where it is in relation to one of the fittings. You don't have to get it back in exact but it needs to be fairly close. Next take the back half of the pump and slam it down on a smooth hard surface with the open side down. It might take a few hard hits but eventually the round part and a short spring will fall out (pic 4). Put the round thingy and the spring in your clean place where you parked the front half of of the pump.
#4 · May 29, 2015
#6 Remove the high pressure fitting (pic 1), make sure you don't loose the o-ring (pic 2)
#7 Remove the plunger and spring that are under the high pressure fitting (I failed to get a pic but you will see it), if it won't come out that side you can take it out the other side after step #8
#8 On the other side of the pump is a small cap held in with a snap ring, push the cap in about 1/4" then remove the snap ring, push the cap out the snap ring side of the pump (pic 3)
#9 Remove the inlet fitting by taking out the retaining bolt and working the fitting out of the pump. (pic 4)
Set all parts other than the back half of the pump body and the inlet fitting in your clean place
Not mine...
Reposted with permission from the op on the old place...
#1 · May 29, 2015
Disclaimer #1 - I just did this tonight so it has not actually been tested, I don't see any reason why it would not help but I wont be able to test it until I get the rest of my full hydro setup done which will be about a month.
Disclaimer #2 Yes I know TC pumps are cheap and easy...but polishing this turd is cheaper and easier and I am curious how far I can push a Toy pump. Plus I have a motor swap planned in the fairly near future and I can go with a different pump at that time if this does not work out.
What is stage 3 you ask? well stage 1 and 2 are the higher pressure and output flow mods that are already documented here. The problem with the output flow mod is it results in pump noise for a lot of people who do it. This is most likely being caused by lack of sufficient flow into the pump. Just for fun and because I had an extra pump that was no good laying around I took it apart to see if there were any restriction or areas where flow could be improved on the intake side of things. Here is what I found.
ID of hose from reservoir .630
ID of hose barb on intake fitting .540
neck down area of hose barb .420
Leg of intake fitting that goes into pump .390
vertical passage in pump .390
horizontal passage in pump .466
I think we can all see where the problem is. A quick look at some hose selection charts show that the 5/8" hose should be getting the job done assuming these pumps are putting out no more than about 3GPM with the flow mod. The problem is the restrictions in the pump and fitting. The one thing that cannot be changed is the size of the horizontal passage, there is not enough meat to drill it out any bigger so our limiting factor is .466". Lets take a look at what opening up the small passages to .466 does to our flow
passage size---area in sq in
.390-----------.12
.466-----------.17
This does not sound like much until you do the math and realize that it is a 42% increase in flow!!
Luckily Toyota built just enough material into the tight areas to drill them all out to .466 or 15/32 which is actually .4688 but it is close enough.
This mod requires completely disassembling your pump which is actually not as scary as it sounds. Follow along and I will walk you through it, and give detailed instructions on how to do the other two mods.
EDIT: I started thinking about how bad of an idea it is to put this thing back together with 30 year old o-rings..Turns out a seal kit is only $17 from Oreily so I guess I will be taking this thing back apart again and doing it right. I will post up the part number latter today when I get it.
#2 · May 29, 2015
#1 Needles to say you will have to remove your pump from your truck. On it you will find 30 years worth of built up crap. Clean it off!! Cleanliness is vital to this project. When you think it is clean, clean it some more, make sure you get all the nooks and crannies.
#2 Mark the two halves so you can put them back together in the correct orientation, don't be a dumbass like me and use a paint pen, we will be washing parts down with brake clean latter and guess what happens to paint when you hit it with brake clean
use a punch to make some permanent marks.#3 Remove the four bolts that hold the two halves of the pump together. You can do this without removing the pulley if you have the right tools, which in this case is this little adapter that allows you to turn a socket with a closed end wrench. The bolts are very tight and they are locktighted in. The casting is too close to two of the bolts to crack them with a box end and you will probably round off the heads with an open end. A socket is the right tool for the job but there is not enough room for a ratchet with the pulley on. I cant remember where I got these but it harbor freight sells something similar
3 Piece Square Drive Socket Caps
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#3 · May 29, 2015
#4 With all of the bolts out flip the pump over so the pulley is down and give it a light tap on the bench to make sure the right parts are loose. lift the back half off (pic 1) and you should have what is shown in the second pic. Leave the front half of the pump assembled as shown and set it aside somewhere clean and away from your work area.
#5 Take note of the orientation of the shiny bit in the back half of the pump (pic 3), you can't really mark it so look for some small detail and take a picture or make a note of where it is in relation to one of the fittings. You don't have to get it back in exact but it needs to be fairly close. Next take the back half of the pump and slam it down on a smooth hard surface with the open side down. It might take a few hard hits but eventually the round part and a short spring will fall out (pic 4). Put the round thingy and the spring in your clean place where you parked the front half of of the pump.
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#4 · May 29, 2015
#6 Remove the high pressure fitting (pic 1), make sure you don't loose the o-ring (pic 2)
#7 Remove the plunger and spring that are under the high pressure fitting (I failed to get a pic but you will see it), if it won't come out that side you can take it out the other side after step #8
#8 On the other side of the pump is a small cap held in with a snap ring, push the cap in about 1/4" then remove the snap ring, push the cap out the snap ring side of the pump (pic 3)
#9 Remove the inlet fitting by taking out the retaining bolt and working the fitting out of the pump. (pic 4)
Set all parts other than the back half of the pump body and the inlet fitting in your clean place
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Clb
another toyota from P.R.K
#5 · May 29, 2015
#10 More cleaning, clean all of the P.S. fluid out of the inlet fitting and the back half of the pump, make sure you get all of the little passages
#11 clamp the pump body in a vice and drill the inlet passage from the fitting side to 15/32". Go all the way until the tip of the bit bottoms out on the side of the horizontal passage (pic 1, 2)
#12 clean up any burrs by running the drill pit into the horizontal passage (pic 3)
#13 clamp the inlet fitting in a vice with the pump side up,, remove the o-ring, and drill to 15/32", (pic 4) There will not much meat left where you pass by the o-ring groove so make sure the your hole is centered, the factory hole in mine was not so I tried to work it as close to center as I could. go all the way until the tip of the bit bottoms out on the side of the other passage.
#14 flip the fitting over so the hose side is up. (pic 5) I drilled mine to 7/16" then to 15/32" the wall thickness gets really thin at 15/32" but it seems to be fine. If you want to be safe stop at 7/16" but if you are feeling brave and want full flow go to 15/32".
#15 go clean ALL of the metal out of the pump and fitting. I used brake clean followed by compressed air, again make sure you get all of the little passages in the pump. look for the little ones near the high pressure fitting threads and the snap ring groove. Once they are clean put them with all of your other clean stuff.
#6 · May 29, 2015
#16 This is the output flow mod, Drill all the way through the fitting (pic 1), I used a 15/16" which opens up the hole in the brass flare a little bit. A lot of guys use whatever bit just barely fits through the brass. A bigger hole means more flow but there is such a thing as too big. Deburr the holes in both ends and clean any shavings out before putting the fitting with your other clean parts.
#17 The other half of the flow mod. The end of the plunger sits up against the high pressure fitting which means that all of the fluid has to go through this little groove to get to that nice big hole you just drilled (pic 2). I used a 3" cutoff wheel on a die grinder to make the groove deeper and wider and cut another groove at 90 deg to the first one (pic 3). Don't alter the length of the plunger or you will change its position in thew pump, just cut the grooves.
#7 · May 29, 2015
#18 This is the pressure mod and it is optional. Grab the end of the plunger that you just grooved in a vice (pic 1) and use an 11mm wrench to unscrew the end with the little screen in it. Inside you will find a ball, a little dished piece that fits in the end of the spring, and a spring (pic 2). Some guys have had good luck stretching the spring out a little bit and others have added shims under the spring at the end opposite the ball. I have read that a .070" shim works well but for now I just stretched the spring from a free height of .550 to .570. If I decide I need more pressure I can mess with it latter. If you take it apart clean everything while you are in there including the screen.
#8 · May 29, 2015
#19, Time to put it all back together...but before you do there is more cleaning to be done. Clean up your work area, you have been grinding and little chunks of crap that you missed when you cleaned the outside of the pump have fallen off, you don't want that stuff in your pump.
Note: When you are putting this thing back together you need to lube everything, especially anywhere involving o-rings.
#20 bring the back half of the pump, the short spring, and the round thingy over, put the spring (pic 1),then the round thingy (pic 2)in the back half, make sure you get your orientation close. You will have to push pretty hard to get it to seat but it should stay once you pop it in
#21 bring the front half of the pump over, Keep it pulley side down, clean the o-ring, then set the back half on it with your orientation marks lined up. you will probably have to turn it a little bit one way or another to get the pins lined up with the holes in the round thingy in the back half. Once they are lined up it will fall most of the way into place, rotate the two halves until the bolt holes line up and push it the rest of the way down (pic 3)
#22 the bolts seemed like they had lock tite on them so I put some on there for good measure then installed them (pic 4)
#9 · May 29, 2015
#23 reinstall the o-ring on the inlet fitting then instal it in the pump (pic 1)
#24 reinstall the little black cap and snap ring (pic 2)
#25 reinstall the long spring (pic 3)from the high pressure fitting side then the plunger with the screen side towards the spring (pic 4)
#26 Don't forget that high pressure fitting o-ring
#27 reinstall the high pressure fitting (pic 5)
And you are done!!
The restrictor plate and
Where it lives
#1Restrictor plate, #2 pump body minus pulley sheave, and the restrictor plate "big nut" that traps the hi pressure valve in the pump,#3 restrictor plate, pump body, high pressure valve you need to disassemble and shim
#10 More cleaning, clean all of the P.S. fluid out of the inlet fitting and the back half of the pump, make sure you get all of the little passages
#11 clamp the pump body in a vice and drill the inlet passage from the fitting side to 15/32". Go all the way until the tip of the bit bottoms out on the side of the horizontal passage (pic 1, 2)
#12 clean up any burrs by running the drill pit into the horizontal passage (pic 3)
#13 clamp the inlet fitting in a vice with the pump side up,, remove the o-ring, and drill to 15/32", (pic 4) There will not much meat left where you pass by the o-ring groove so make sure the your hole is centered, the factory hole in mine was not so I tried to work it as close to center as I could. go all the way until the tip of the bit bottoms out on the side of the other passage.
#14 flip the fitting over so the hose side is up. (pic 5) I drilled mine to 7/16" then to 15/32" the wall thickness gets really thin at 15/32" but it seems to be fine. If you want to be safe stop at 7/16" but if you are feeling brave and want full flow go to 15/32".
#15 go clean ALL of the metal out of the pump and fitting. I used brake clean followed by compressed air, again make sure you get all of the little passages in the pump. look for the little ones near the high pressure fitting threads and the snap ring groove. Once they are clean put them with all of your other clean stuff.
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#6 · May 29, 2015
#16 This is the output flow mod, Drill all the way through the fitting (pic 1), I used a 15/16" which opens up the hole in the brass flare a little bit. A lot of guys use whatever bit just barely fits through the brass. A bigger hole means more flow but there is such a thing as too big. Deburr the holes in both ends and clean any shavings out before putting the fitting with your other clean parts.
#17 The other half of the flow mod. The end of the plunger sits up against the high pressure fitting which means that all of the fluid has to go through this little groove to get to that nice big hole you just drilled (pic 2). I used a 3" cutoff wheel on a die grinder to make the groove deeper and wider and cut another groove at 90 deg to the first one (pic 3). Don't alter the length of the plunger or you will change its position in thew pump, just cut the grooves.
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#7 · May 29, 2015
#18 This is the pressure mod and it is optional. Grab the end of the plunger that you just grooved in a vice (pic 1) and use an 11mm wrench to unscrew the end with the little screen in it. Inside you will find a ball, a little dished piece that fits in the end of the spring, and a spring (pic 2). Some guys have had good luck stretching the spring out a little bit and others have added shims under the spring at the end opposite the ball. I have read that a .070" shim works well but for now I just stretched the spring from a free height of .550 to .570. If I decide I need more pressure I can mess with it latter. If you take it apart clean everything while you are in there including the screen.
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#8 · May 29, 2015
#19, Time to put it all back together...but before you do there is more cleaning to be done. Clean up your work area, you have been grinding and little chunks of crap that you missed when you cleaned the outside of the pump have fallen off, you don't want that stuff in your pump.
Note: When you are putting this thing back together you need to lube everything, especially anywhere involving o-rings.
#20 bring the back half of the pump, the short spring, and the round thingy over, put the spring (pic 1),then the round thingy (pic 2)in the back half, make sure you get your orientation close. You will have to push pretty hard to get it to seat but it should stay once you pop it in
#21 bring the front half of the pump over, Keep it pulley side down, clean the o-ring, then set the back half on it with your orientation marks lined up. you will probably have to turn it a little bit one way or another to get the pins lined up with the holes in the round thingy in the back half. Once they are lined up it will fall most of the way into place, rotate the two halves until the bolt holes line up and push it the rest of the way down (pic 3)
#22 the bolts seemed like they had lock tite on them so I put some on there for good measure then installed them (pic 4)
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#9 · May 29, 2015
#23 reinstall the o-ring on the inlet fitting then instal it in the pump (pic 1)
#24 reinstall the little black cap and snap ring (pic 2)
#25 reinstall the long spring (pic 3)from the high pressure fitting side then the plunger with the screen side towards the spring (pic 4)
#26 Don't forget that high pressure fitting o-ring
#27 reinstall the high pressure fitting (pic 5)
And you are done!!
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The restrictor plate and
Where it lives
#1Restrictor plate, #2 pump body minus pulley sheave, and the restrictor plate "big nut" that traps the hi pressure valve in the pump,#3 restrictor plate, pump body, high pressure valve you need to disassemble and shim
Last edited:
Aisin
Grumpy old fuck
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 304
- Messages
- 2,179
Cant believe I just saw this. I know 2 people with broken elockers.Broken E-Locker side gear
Early (88-90) V6 side gears are Toyota Part Number 41331-35040 which 8in elockers (low and high pinion) use on the non actuator side. This can only be bought in a $300-500 kit of all the side/spider gears. Used to be $60 individually new but NLA individually.
Later (90+) V6 side gears are Toyota Part Number 41331-35011, same as FJ80 High pinion, Tacoma, 4runner etc. without locker also 4cyl diffs 85+. Also NLA individually in the states but can find sellers outside US.
So what do you do?
41039-34060 Spider/Side gear kit from Toyota can be found in Dubai... for a couple hundred bucks and has the near impossible to find actuator side gear with splines. Pretty steep for diff gears but is cheaper than another elocker.
cchambers13
Trail Whale
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 2186
- Messages
- 102
So you have a Tacoma/4runner rear axle housing (pre 2000) with ABS but you break an ABS axle and want to run a non ABS axle or not put the tone rings back on because your mini truck or earlier gen 4runner doesn't have ABS.
ABS housings seal on the retaining ring inboard of the tone ring, non ABS housings seal at the flange. Seal OD/ID's are completely different.
Solution: Run retaining ring inside of rear wheel bearing and find a seal that can be installed in the ABS sensor bore location (end of housing). Retaining ring has 50mm OD, ABS sensor bore is 75mm ID.
Seal needed: 1992-2000 Mitsubishi Montero or 1997-2004 Montero Sport Rear Outer Wheel Seal.
SKF- 20012
National- 710437
ABS/NON ABS Brake Backing Plates are DIFFERENT! E-Brake actuator is in a different location to clear ABS sensor as is the bolt pattern/flange.
Rear axles on 2000+ changed wheel bearings and shaft where wheel bearing sits... not sure if anything else changed.
Running an ABS shaft(97) and a non ABS shaft(96) in the rear of my 4runner with 3rd gen E-Locker housing for 500mi and no leaks.
ABS housings seal on the retaining ring inboard of the tone ring, non ABS housings seal at the flange. Seal OD/ID's are completely different.
Solution: Run retaining ring inside of rear wheel bearing and find a seal that can be installed in the ABS sensor bore location (end of housing). Retaining ring has 50mm OD, ABS sensor bore is 75mm ID.
Seal needed: 1992-2000 Mitsubishi Montero or 1997-2004 Montero Sport Rear Outer Wheel Seal.
SKF- 20012
National- 710437
ABS/NON ABS Brake Backing Plates are DIFFERENT! E-Brake actuator is in a different location to clear ABS sensor as is the bolt pattern/flange.
Rear axles on 2000+ changed wheel bearings and shaft where wheel bearing sits... not sure if anything else changed.
Running an ABS shaft(97) and a non ABS shaft(96) in the rear of my 4runner with 3rd gen E-Locker housing for 500mi and no leaks.
Last edited:
cchambers13
Trail Whale
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 2186
- Messages
- 102
IFS Hub Swap
(information/pictures stolen from other places and has been common on trucks for years, all I am doing is re-explaining and sharing lessons learned)
I take no responsibility for any method explained, these affect wheel mounting and brakes of the vehicle. Do your own research and DO ANY MODIFICATIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK
When SASing an IFS truck with a 79-85 front axle the rear IFS axle ends up being 3ish inches wider than the front. There are a few ways to solve the width difference.
1. Use 1.5" wheel spacers up front
2. IFS hubs with Spacer behind the hub flange to put the rotor back in original location
3. IFS hubs with FJ60 rotors
4. Wider housing
Wheel spacers are cheap and easy, the pros/cons can be found all over. IFS hubs with rotor spacers is a good setup, little bit expensive and not sure if they are still being made? Wider housing is the correct way to do this along with all the benefits/expenses of making that happen.
For option 3 you can use the IFS hubs (4cyl and 6cyl both work) with the IFS brake calipers.
(internet photo)
To do this you need FJ60 rotors from 1986-89, in 90 the diameter changed on the rotor, the rotor will need to be drilled to accommodate the IFS hub rotor mounting bolts. To mount the calipers they will need to mount on the opposite side of the mounting bosses on the knuckles. In OE configuration the calipers are mounted to the inside of the bosses and have a through hole and the boss is tapped to secure with a bolt. With the IFS hubs/FJ60 rotor the calipers will need to mount on the outside of the bosses. Knuckle bosses get drilled as clearance holes for bolts and the calipers are drilled/tapped to secure the brakes. Some use 1/2-20 others use 9/16-18, mine is setup with 9/16 grade 8 bolts for strength and additional nuts on the back side of the caliper and locktite.
(Rattlewagon's Taco slip on setup but shows proper caliper mounting)
In this setup the IFS wheel bearings might work... I forget, but you do need to use the solid axle wheel seal and lockout hub. On brake pads if you are starting with V6 parts, make sure to use 4cyl brake pads. The V6 pads will have a slight overhang from the OD of the rotor. 4cyl fit appropriately. Also a good time to do a backing plate elimination and figure out securing brake lines.
(internet photo)
(information/pictures stolen from other places and has been common on trucks for years, all I am doing is re-explaining and sharing lessons learned)
I take no responsibility for any method explained, these affect wheel mounting and brakes of the vehicle. Do your own research and DO ANY MODIFICATIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK
When SASing an IFS truck with a 79-85 front axle the rear IFS axle ends up being 3ish inches wider than the front. There are a few ways to solve the width difference.
1. Use 1.5" wheel spacers up front
2. IFS hubs with Spacer behind the hub flange to put the rotor back in original location
3. IFS hubs with FJ60 rotors
4. Wider housing
Wheel spacers are cheap and easy, the pros/cons can be found all over. IFS hubs with rotor spacers is a good setup, little bit expensive and not sure if they are still being made? Wider housing is the correct way to do this along with all the benefits/expenses of making that happen.
For option 3 you can use the IFS hubs (4cyl and 6cyl both work) with the IFS brake calipers.
(internet photo)
To do this you need FJ60 rotors from 1986-89, in 90 the diameter changed on the rotor, the rotor will need to be drilled to accommodate the IFS hub rotor mounting bolts. To mount the calipers they will need to mount on the opposite side of the mounting bosses on the knuckles. In OE configuration the calipers are mounted to the inside of the bosses and have a through hole and the boss is tapped to secure with a bolt. With the IFS hubs/FJ60 rotor the calipers will need to mount on the outside of the bosses. Knuckle bosses get drilled as clearance holes for bolts and the calipers are drilled/tapped to secure the brakes. Some use 1/2-20 others use 9/16-18, mine is setup with 9/16 grade 8 bolts for strength and additional nuts on the back side of the caliper and locktite.
(Rattlewagon's Taco slip on setup but shows proper caliper mounting)
In this setup the IFS wheel bearings might work... I forget, but you do need to use the solid axle wheel seal and lockout hub. On brake pads if you are starting with V6 parts, make sure to use 4cyl brake pads. The V6 pads will have a slight overhang from the OD of the rotor. 4cyl fit appropriately. Also a good time to do a backing plate elimination and figure out securing brake lines.
(internet photo)
Last edited:
rattlewagon
shitboxin
That middle "internet photo" is mine. Heres another version someone did up. I used 1st gen taco rotors and ground down the hub OD so they slip on.
Had to open up the calipers a bit to fit the taco rotor.
Here is a good example of how much to take off with for the slip on rotors. Not my photo, .
Running this set up, I can have the birfield out in 20 min taking the hub off as a unit bearing doing a modified camo method. Right now to change a shaft is remove the caliper, and the rotor will slide off. Pop the dust cap on the drive flange and pull the snap ring, then pull the 8 spindle bolts and the whole thing comes off like a unit bearing. Leaving the knuckle/conewashers/trunnions/shims alone.
Heres some wheel stud information
Dorman Part #98458 is the stock front IFS stud is a .559" Knurl and a .3149 shoulder depth. Length of 40 mm.
Part # 610-312 is a stock rear stud, with a knurl diameter of .5578" and shoulder depth of .4921. 44.5mm long
But after digging through the Dorman parts book, I found one!
Part # 610-463. Rear stud off of a Awd Toyota Matrix. Same .559 knurl but a shoulder depth just over an inch, it makes the whole stud 55mm.
Stock on the left, stock rear in the middle, and martix on the right.
I did have to run a 1/4 wheel spacer to get my steel wheel to clear the caliper, but the aluminum wheels cleared fine.
Had to open up the calipers a bit to fit the taco rotor.
Here is a good example of how much to take off with for the slip on rotors. Not my photo, .
Running this set up, I can have the birfield out in 20 min taking the hub off as a unit bearing doing a modified camo method. Right now to change a shaft is remove the caliper, and the rotor will slide off. Pop the dust cap on the drive flange and pull the snap ring, then pull the 8 spindle bolts and the whole thing comes off like a unit bearing. Leaving the knuckle/conewashers/trunnions/shims alone.
Heres some wheel stud information
Dorman Part #98458 is the stock front IFS stud is a .559" Knurl and a .3149 shoulder depth. Length of 40 mm.
Part # 610-312 is a stock rear stud, with a knurl diameter of .5578" and shoulder depth of .4921. 44.5mm long
But after digging through the Dorman parts book, I found one!
Part # 610-463. Rear stud off of a Awd Toyota Matrix. Same .559 knurl but a shoulder depth just over an inch, it makes the whole stud 55mm.
Stock on the left, stock rear in the middle, and martix on the right.
I did have to run a 1/4 wheel spacer to get my steel wheel to clear the caliper, but the aluminum wheels cleared fine.
Last edited:
cchambers13
Trail Whale
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 2186
- Messages
- 102
And a beautiful photo it is. I noticed the slip on rotors but it was just too good to pass up showing the calipers with the different mounting. My junk is not presentable for class projects.
The Taco slip over setup wasn't as common when I set mine up, definitely the way to go as an upgrade to IFS V6 stuff. Thanks for the info on yours Rattlewagon!
j_webs
Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2022
- Member Number
- 4749
- Messages
- 9
I think this link is dead
Provience
Kill!
Thank you for the heads up!!
i'll see about doing some digigng and getting something up here. don't remember who started the other thread or why it got pulled, but check out the marlin link above for answers in the meantime.
Etyler2
Your kind of Asshole
FYI just ordered a brand new 92 F150 Dorman tank shipped from Amazon for $80.
Provience
Kill!
Damon Industries Red-Kote Gas Tank Liner
Here in the rust belt you’d better coat your tank, especially a new aftermarket one as they never seem to be treated for corrosion as good as the OEM ones. Used the products from this company for decades on old tractors, I can personally vouch for their product to line the inside. I see that they have an exterior liner as well now, but it’s have no experience with it.
Here in the rust belt you’d better coat your tank, especially a new aftermarket one as they never seem to be treated for corrosion as good as the OEM ones. Used the products from this company for decades on old tractors, I can personally vouch for their product to line the inside. I see that they have an exterior liner as well now, but it’s have no experience with it.
slimbobaggins
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2021
- Member Number
- 3324
- Messages
- 6
I'm assuming this broken link should point here instead?
Toyota Ring and Pinion Gear Thread
I have an idea but not a good direction :homer: Trying to establish a thread with FAQ style information for Toyota differentials. Guess i'll just start typing and see where it ends up. saving this first post to edit and add more information as i figure out what makes sense to go here...
irate4x4.com
Provience
Kill!
Leaf spring mount distances and shackle lengths...
Im.pretty sure it was @Wilsonthat had the formula where you took arc length, flat length, and did theath for shackle length and mounting distance. Damn if I can find it though. I see the "hard core leaf spring" thread but don't see the equation
irate4x4.com
Leaf Spring Tech, yeah yeah, it's out of order, but that's what the numbers are for. Big thanks to Wilson for regularly taking the time to put that information out.
Probably a dumb question, but does anyone know if the newer 2016+ 8.75" diff will fit in the older 8/8.2" housings? I haven't seen much info on the 8.75" stuff yet and couldn't find much either.
The manual v6 tacos of this era have 4.30's, so a potentially 'easy' swap to adjust for 33-35" tires in the previous gen 4runners, GXs, etc would be neat.
The manual v6 tacos of this era have 4.30's, so a potentially 'easy' swap to adjust for 33-35" tires in the previous gen 4runners, GXs, etc would be neat.
Clb
another toyota from P.R.K
Onehunglo ( you sea vets remember him)
says...Dougbtful
Saw this here somewhere
Watching for science
says...Dougbtful
Saw this here somewhere
Watching for science
vegask
Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2022
- Member Number
- 5356
- Messages
- 23
So you want to run a TC/Saginaw style PS pump on your 5vzfe?
So this is not a new trick, I found details of it being done on the old site but there are no pictures and details are vague. The end result is a pump that seems to operate better than stock and has the ability to be modded later on. I still need to setup hydro assist on my 4runner before I make my final verdict on if this is worth it. Worst case the pulley and reservoir for this mod will swap over to the TG pump. Also, I am running an inline cooler which is not shown in any of these pics.
Pump: 1994 JEEP WRANGLER 2.5L L4
I used an ultra power 20820 from rock auto ~$75 but there are much cheaper options.
Pulley: TGI-130094-KIT From trail gear ~$56 from summit racing
Pulley bolt: 3/8-16 x 1"
Adapter: RUS-648060 ~$9 from summit racing
Belt: stock belt worked fine.
You may or may not need the adapter, my 4runner has a solid front axle with a FJ60 box on it (no hydro yet)
West Texas offroad made a guide on how to modify this pump, I somehow still had the PDF for it after all these years, if you find it on their site let me know so I can add a link to it. In the mean time its in my google drive here:
I'll add, I did drill out the orifice on my new pump but I did not shim or stretch the spring on it (yet).
As far as the reservoir goes, this is up to you. I used an expensive PSC one cause it was pretty but anything will do.
If you are switching from the factory pump to this, make sure to flush out the ATF and switch to real PS fluid.
Side by side, stock 5vzfe pump on left, Jeep/TC on right
You'll notice there are 3 bolt holes on the new pump, the one marked with red sharpie needs to be drilled out to handle the factory bolt. I believe it was m8 or m10 before drilling and m12 after. I do not have metric drill bits, I just found the closest one in my drawer and it worked.
The two lower bolts are a different size than factory, so you will need to run to home depot / lowes / autozone and get two new ones that thread in here. They will work with the factory 5vzfe bracket. (apologies that I do not know the bolt and thread pitch, I got lucky and had two in my drawer)
Now its time to fit it. You want to align the pump as close to the radiator as possible, this creates a gap on the back of the pump mount. You can close this gap anyway you want. I chose to weld two washers together and then to a piece of scrap steel so I could hold it in place while installing.
The TG pulley is a press fit, so of course I used a longer bolt and a tone of washers to install it.
Lastly, here it is almost 100% installed, I stopped taking pictures.
The low pressure feed on the pump can be adjusted, just stick a screw driver into it and turn it slowly. I was able to rotate mine so it was nearly a straight shot from the reservoir into the pump (not shown in this pic)
So this is not a new trick, I found details of it being done on the old site but there are no pictures and details are vague. The end result is a pump that seems to operate better than stock and has the ability to be modded later on. I still need to setup hydro assist on my 4runner before I make my final verdict on if this is worth it. Worst case the pulley and reservoir for this mod will swap over to the TG pump. Also, I am running an inline cooler which is not shown in any of these pics.
Pump: 1994 JEEP WRANGLER 2.5L L4
I used an ultra power 20820 from rock auto ~$75 but there are much cheaper options.
Pulley: TGI-130094-KIT From trail gear ~$56 from summit racing
Pulley bolt: 3/8-16 x 1"
Adapter: RUS-648060 ~$9 from summit racing
Belt: stock belt worked fine.
You may or may not need the adapter, my 4runner has a solid front axle with a FJ60 box on it (no hydro yet)
West Texas offroad made a guide on how to modify this pump, I somehow still had the PDF for it after all these years, if you find it on their site let me know so I can add a link to it. In the mean time its in my google drive here:
I'll add, I did drill out the orifice on my new pump but I did not shim or stretch the spring on it (yet).
As far as the reservoir goes, this is up to you. I used an expensive PSC one cause it was pretty but anything will do.
If you are switching from the factory pump to this, make sure to flush out the ATF and switch to real PS fluid.
Side by side, stock 5vzfe pump on left, Jeep/TC on right
You'll notice there are 3 bolt holes on the new pump, the one marked with red sharpie needs to be drilled out to handle the factory bolt. I believe it was m8 or m10 before drilling and m12 after. I do not have metric drill bits, I just found the closest one in my drawer and it worked.
The two lower bolts are a different size than factory, so you will need to run to home depot / lowes / autozone and get two new ones that thread in here. They will work with the factory 5vzfe bracket. (apologies that I do not know the bolt and thread pitch, I got lucky and had two in my drawer)
Now its time to fit it. You want to align the pump as close to the radiator as possible, this creates a gap on the back of the pump mount. You can close this gap anyway you want. I chose to weld two washers together and then to a piece of scrap steel so I could hold it in place while installing.
The TG pulley is a press fit, so of course I used a longer bolt and a tone of washers to install it.
Lastly, here it is almost 100% installed, I stopped taking pictures.
The low pressure feed on the pump can be adjusted, just stick a screw driver into it and turn it slowly. I was able to rotate mine so it was nearly a straight shot from the reservoir into the pump (not shown in this pic)