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These lugnuts are crap, right?

subybaja

subybaja

E. Spengler
Joined
May 19, 2020
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54
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2,264
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Spenard Ak
Amazon cheapies. The threads are weird looking, like they're badly roll-formed?

I went down to O'reilly's, and all the nuts in blister packs on the wall looked like this too. Still cheap crap?

I've never bought new lug nuts, but the ones I've drug home from the junkyard never looked like this...

Use them and move on, or send em back?

Suggestions for better quality sets? Don't need screwy locks.

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I'm not sure how you'd cut a thread form with a split on the point of the ridge like that. That is what I'm looking at, right?

Maybe run them onto and off of a wheel stud a few times and see if they look like all your junkyard ones.
 
A super-dull automated tap that pressure formed the threads, rather than cut them?
 
They are rolled threads, that's what they look like. The way the Crest looks isn't really important. Screw them on and see how they fit. I bet they fit nice. I have boxes of similar looking lug nuts. Zero issues.
 
bdkw1 said:
They are rolled threads, that's what they look like. The way the Crest looks isn't really important. Screw them on and see how they fit. I bet they fit nice. I have boxes of similar looking lug nuts. Zero issues.
Click to expand...
:beer: Thanks.

Definitely going McGard fo the next set. :/
 
Best lugnuts (also only) I’ve bought new were from American tire on old seward. Spendy though
 
Never buy the lugnuts out front. Ask for the ones in the back, they're better and usually cheaper than the shiny crap out front. My checker stocks Dorman so its nothing special but still good.
 
bdkw1 said:
They are rolled threads, that's what they look like. The way the Crest looks isn't really important. Screw them on and see how they fit. I bet they fit nice. I have boxes of similar looking lug nuts. Zero issues.
Click to expand...
Rolled threads don't explain the wierd shit on the peak though. Basically every thread not in a machined part is rolled these days. None of them have that weird split going on. I'm not even sure how you'd dull a tool in a way that would create that. :laughing:
 
MFG in china. I bet they only have a go no go gague at the machine. If tthat.
 
I've stopped at the local tire shop and bought bulk lug nuts for a buck a piece and never had a problem.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Rolled threads don't explain the wierd shit on the peak though. Basically every thread not in a machined part is rolled these days. None of them have that weird split going on. I'm not even sure how you'd dull a tool in a way that would create that. :laughing:
Click to expand...
A tap with buildup is what your looking at.
 
bunk said:
MFG in china. I bet they only have a go no go gague at the machine. If tthat.
Click to expand...
Those cost money and only check one side. They got a dude with a thread pitch gauge checking every 10,000th lug nut. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Those cost money and only check one side. They got a dude with a thread pitch gauge checking every 10,000th lug nut. :laughing:
Click to expand...
Not when they can just machine the gague. The inspection room does the one in 10000 sample inspection.
 
Gorilla or Mcgard, or OEM. I think NAPA has house brand lug nuts still, right?

Everything else pretty much sucks. I recently dropped the $4ish each on Mcgard black nuts for my Taco, but luckily I found a 20% off code for O'Reilly online so that eased the pain a bit.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Rolled threads don't explain the wierd shit on the peak though. Basically every thread not in a machined part is rolled these days. None of them have that weird split going on. I'm not even sure how you'd dull a tool in a way that would create that. :laughing:
Click to expand...

Rolled threads all look like that on the crest. Has to do with how they are formed. Bolts/external rolled threads don't look like that as they use topping dies. Doing any sort of topping on an ID thread would go south in a hurry.
 
To add to that, material has a lot to do with how jagged the tops look. Softer materials like aluminum will flow better and look nicer. Stainless like 17-4 look like shit on the crest. So much so that I have had GOV parts rejected on visual inspection when they speced form taps. Those got some tricky burnishing on the minor dia and re-tapped to fix the roll over from burnishing. Nothing was ever out of spec, it was all looks.
 
bunk said:
OH, ok. yeah.
Click to expand...
We're talking China, right? They basically have to be dragged kicking and screaming to do proactive QC. "Customer no complain then product is fine" is how they roll when it comes to cheap stuff like hardware. Maybe things have changed in the last 5yr but that's news to me.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
We're talking China, right? "Customer no complain then product is fine" is how they roll when it comes to cheap stuff like hardware. Maybe things have changed in the last 5yr but that's news to me.
Click to expand...
Even when you complain it takes an act of god to get it changed. Then they want to double the price or double the minimum order quantity. Then they drag their feet and are late requiring expedited shipping.

Which is driving the reshoring trend.
 
There are actually quality lug nuts made. You're just not going to pick them up at the local Vatozone.

If I'm not mistaken, ARP makes lug nuts for their wheel studs.
The lug nuts I got from TrailReady are badass beefcake.
 
I've used Mcgard lug nuts since having issues with a set of cheap lug nuts on my buggy years. They been on since about 2008 with only some chrome chipping.
 
probably made at the same shitty factory as the shitty PTC lug nuts/studs i got from rockauto :barf:
 
Well, both sets fit fine, and torqued down without stripping...

I'm gonna keep an eye on them for a while, and expect them to rust.

Hmm. "Form tapping". Note the peaks:

www.triumphtool.com

The Benefits of Form Tapping - Triumph Tool

Form tapping, also known as Roll form tapping, is typiclly used when applications are problematic with traditional cut tapping. Roll form tapping has several benefits over cut tapping such as faster cutting speeds, stronger threads, no chips are generated, stronger tap and longer tool life.
www.triumphtool.com www.triumphtool.com
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LINK
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Are Rolled Internal Threads as Good as Cut Threads?
Questions about internal rolled threads come up from time to time. Why do fastener manufacturers
want to provide internal threads using the rolling rather than cutting process? Are rolled threads as
strong as cut? How do you gage internal rolled threads verses internal cut threads. Why do screws
tend to cross-thread in internal rolled threads more than internal cut threads?
These are good questions. Following are the answers:
Q1. Why do fastener manufacturers want to provide internal threads using the rolling rather
than cutting process?
A1. Rolling internal threads provide exactly the same benefits to the manufacturer that rolling external
threads do.
1. Rolling internal threads displaces material instead of creating scrap in the form of chips. This
can result in raw material savings.
2. Rolling internal threads can be performed at a faster rate than cutting threads, thus yielding
more parts per hour.
Q2. Are rolled threads as strong as cut?
A2. Yes, rolled threads are at least as strong as cut threads.
1. If the internally threaded fastener is not hardened by heat treatment the rolled thread is
stronger than the cut thread because of the work hardening that occurs as a result of the
process. This provides a part more resistant to thread stripping.
2. If the internally threaded product is hardened by heat treatment then the internal rolled threads
and the cut threads have equal strength.
Q3. How do you gage internal rolled threads verses internal cut threads:
A3. The dimensional and inspection requirements for internal rolled threads are identical to those for
cut threads. Internal threads must be inspected with threaded plug gages and cylindrical plug gages
to evaluate the pitch diameter and minor diameter.
The only difference is that internal rolled threads require a larger hole in the work pieces than do work
pieces intended for cut threads. The reason is that when rolling internal threads, the pre-tap hole size
in the work piece is approximately pitch diameter size. The material that is displaced by the crests of
the tap’s major diameter flows inward toward the center of the part to create the minor diameter.
When creating an internal cut thread in a work piece, the pre-tap hole size is at the nut’s minor
diameter. The flute in the tap cuts the thread into the material instead of flowing the material to create
the thread form.
Click to expand...
 
bdkw1 said:
Rolled threads all look like that on the crest. Has to do with how they are formed. Bolts/external rolled threads don't look like that as they use topping dies. Doing any sort of topping on an ID thread would go south in a hurry.
Click to expand...
:lmao:


Gorilla
 
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