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Thefishguys backhoe trouble shooting thread


Part time dumbass
May 19, 2020
Member Number
U.S.S.A. (Washington St.)
Ok Machine is a 1982 Case 480C and was free. Well I had to buy a battery but otherwise free.
Known problems are no brakes, at all. No pedal, just hangs out on the floor alone. Drive it in 1st gear. Forward and reverse and neutral work.
Otherwise in working order.

Was digging on a stump today and felt the back part of the machine pick up. The part I am talking about is under the how foot pedals. So I called it and drive it back to the parking area. I have never really given it a once over more of a fix it as it comes up. I noticed that one of the stabilizer booms has some extra build up on it but wasn’t actively dripping. Well I see an active drip so I cleaned everything up and found what appears to be a cracked seal on the ram. Is this an expensive fix or can I DIY this one without spending $$$.
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That seal is just the wiper seal for the cylinder rod. It prevents junk from getting down into the wear guides and cylinder packing. If the cylinder is leaking outwards (the packing is compromised), that seal won't keep anything inside, it's not rated for pressure in that direction. If it's not completely pissing hydraulic oil out when it's under pressure, you can probably at least finish whatever job you're working on.

The bigger thing is to replace that seal, you have to pull the entire rod assembly out, including the gland nut, sealhead, piston, etc. Depending on where it is in the machine you might be able to leave the cylinder body in place while you do it. At that point you might as well rebuild/repack the entire thing, the kits are cheap and pretty easy to find and you'll be doing 95% of that job anyway regardless. When you go to install the new wiper seal into the gland nut make sure you put it in 'backwards' / same orientation.
Seals are cheap. If you have a torch a way to make a big spanner wrench and a way to loosen the big nut at the end of the rod it’s no big deal.
Only torch I have is propane or mapp gas. I can probably make a big spanner. I have the big Milwaukee 1/2 impact. And apparently I am buying a seal install kit as listed above. I will have lots of questions probably. Thanks guys. :beer:
Only torch I have is propane or mapp gas. I can probably make a big spanner. I have the big Milwaukee 1/2 impact. And apparently I am buying a seal install kit as listed above. I will have lots of questions probably. Thanks guys. :beer:

Lol a 1/2” Milwaukee prolly won’t do it alone. You may have to heat it up dull red for it to turn it off. They are torqued to 500+ depending on size. They need to have this crazy torque because when you pull the rod in the nut does all the holding.
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So I am having a spanner cut is what your saying? I know a guy who could probably cut me one.

you need a tool to hook into 2 or three of those holes at the end to spin the gland out. With how long it’s been in there your prolly gonna have to heat the end up to loosen it up.

I just cut out a spanner wrench drill holes with mill then weld in short pieces of round stock.
There might be a screw holding the gland to the cylinder also. This is the bolt that requires a lot of torque
this is a bucket lift ram but they are similar.
Can anybody spoon feed me a link on how to clean/replace/service this idiot light? I are dumb on these machines as its all new to me. :homer:

My guess is its probably got an in tank return filter. May also have a canister type filter some where. I've got a few older case machines and they are all pretty similar.
Sorry, apparently my previous reply didn't make it through.
Most likely means that it thinks that the hydraulic filter is plugged. Not sure where the filter is on that machine.
If its a discharge filter, it will be the last thing in line before the fluid returns to the sump and the sensor measures back pressure, more than 10 or 20 PSI will trip it.
If its a suction filter, it may be looking for vacuum on the suction line, or it might be after the charge pump and may signal a low charge pump pressure.

Aaron Z
Honestly, you've got a 10k dollar machine that will likely last you the rest of your life, and save you hours upon hours of manual labor yearly, at the bare minimum, spend a few bucks on manuals, and then again on the ripped electronic version, maybe $60 total

the ripped and printed manuals don't have the definition for wiring schematics

You've probably got a plugged filter, or a bad sensor, or wiring problem somewhere. But I can't help more, because I don't have the book:laughing:
I have a hard copy of the manuals for the tractor and backhoe. If you need me to look up anything particular and post it i can but it might take me a day or 2 per request.
Alright guys, you fucking rock. I have been so fucking busy with work that I havent had time to dig my binders out but am 99% I have what I need. I will report back Wednesday if I found them or not. :beer:
Ok, found the service manual and operational manual, and have a binder with part numbers. Found the filter online for $17. Going to call Napa tomorrow to see if they stock it. They do a lot of tractor stuff. That and 12 gallons of fluid and I have a filter change in theory.
Ok found the manuals and it was just low on hydro fluid:homer: Either way I was back up and running pulling logs and shit from the trees work I had done and I blew a front tire. When I was standing with my back turned about 2’ from it. I jumper a bit:flipoff2:. Either way in my quest to wean myself off of amazon I started calling shops in the yakima area and everyone said its cheapest to order it from amazon so I called a light truck shop and they told me to bring the rims down And they will see if they can find a pair of used tires that will fit. Dropped them off in the morning did my errands and they were done in a few hours for a 100+tax. Cool guys, have a feeling I may go wheeling with a few of them as well.

So my long winded question is how tight do I torque the front wheel bolts to?
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