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Tankless water heater tech

bgaidan

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NC Triad
Looking for tips and sanity check before I spend a bunch of money.

I have a slow leak behind one of my walls and the only way to get to it is to tear out a tiled shower or tear out the wall behind the water heater. I know as soon as I touch that 20 year-old heater it's going to fail so I'm thinking it's time to upgrade to a tankless.

From what I'm reading, a condensing unit will be better for where I want to put it.

I'm looking at some standard 8-10gpm Rheems I can order online. I think my well can only do like 6gph so I don't see much of a reason to go much bigger on the WH.

Of course, because I live in a renovated barn, everything has to be more complicated.

This is where the WH currently lives. That little door on the right side of the loft is the HVAC closet and where I'd like to mount the tankless.
1672943474847.png




Inside the HVAC closet - above the door. This is where I'd like to mount it. It's the spot that's least likely to be in the way for future HVAC repairs or replacement. Light fixture can be relocated to the side wall or ceiling.
1672939126566.png




This is looking up through that door. PVC lines are the exhaust for the two propane furnaces. The 4" pipe going through the old 8" is the existing WH vent from below.

The new WH would be mounted just above to door jamb. You can just see the lightbulb from the pic above. Plan would be to 90 over and then 90 up the 8" chimney pipe with the exhaust, and possibly the intake.
1672939081657.png




Looking at Rheem's install manual, it doesn't have any max lengths or number of bends in the exhaust/intake and what I'm doing is pretty much exactly what they're showing here, so that shouldn't be a problem. The only thing they spec is the exhaust terminating 12" above the intake. That might be a problem with the cap that's on that chimney pipe.
1672944274450.png




So one question I have is - the two furnaces have propane burners for emergency heat only. They exhaust through the PVC lines you see in the pics, but they're just intaking combustion air straight out of the closet. The closet door is vented so they can pull out of the house and I believe that 8" chimney pipe also allows air to flow in.

Could I do the same for the WH? Just vent the exhaust and let it pull in combustion air from the room?




The propane line for the existing WH actually tees off from the same line as the HVAC in that closet so I should be able to remove the old line at the tee and route to the new WH from there. It'll only be about 4' of pipe. I guess I need to see what the new WH needs as far as pressure to make sure that line can handle it.



I'll have to run some temporary pex through that closet to tie back in to the existing supply and hot water lines. Eventually I'll have the other side of that wall opened up for a bath remodel and will get them buried then, but that's a good year out.



Anything stupid about this plan? Or anything I should look at doing differently?
 
Tankless sucks.
You are high.

Why keep 40 gallons of water hot when you are not using it? I get maybe a 10-15 sec lag on hot water from mine. For every use that is completely acceptable in my book. Once it is on it keeps up with demand from multiple sources. I can change the temp in my house... never haven but I COULD!:flipoff2:

Water is cheap so I'd rather waste that over propane.
 
I like my tankless. The price of the double wall vent and safety valves, etc. is what was sucked because it I was trying to do it on the cheap as I had just recently my first house at the time.

I have a Rheem, will have to check the size. I believe it pulls from my laundry/wash room. Not a fan of mounting it above the door, personal opinion. Check that the 6gph won't be to low for the unit you are looking at, unsure if it could do damage by over heating just a thought.
 
I went tankless and if I could do it over again I probably wouldn't. In my case the water heater is on the opposite side wall as my bedroom. I was not aware how Loud the tankless heaters are when they fire and shut off. lots of clicks, knocks, bangs... all normal sounds but a tank water heater is silent. I also hooked up a recirc pump so I don't need to wait for hot water. well that increases the amount of times the heater firers and the knocks clicks, bangs go off at all times of the day/night. it also requires a minimal amount of flow in order to fire, and say if you are defrosting food and using a slow stream of hot/warm water to do it then you might not get enough flow to fire the heater, OR the heater is constantly firing and shutting off like every 5-10 seconds. .... Normal tank water heater does not have an issue with that, Sure I have an unlimited amount of hot water but im not 18 anymore and a 10 minute shower is a long shower. I probably should have just swapped over to a propane fired tank heater from my electric.
 
You are high.

Why keep 40 gallons of water hot when you are not using it?
Twice in the last few years we've had the power go out in the evening. Each time, ~12 hours later, still no power, I had plenty of hot water for a shower. That tells me I'm paying almost nothing to "hold" it.

I guess I just like the simplicity of the old way and don't see any need to change it.
 
Anything goes wrong with a tank, you can have a new one up and running in ~2hrs.

Maybe just my experieence with neighbors/friends, but when tankless goes out (and it will, more than once) it usually means lots of time (diagnosing, sourcing the correct parts, etc) and money.
 
Tankless should have either a hot water recirc installed or hot water on demand at the faucets to make up for the dwell time (think furthest from the tank) unless you do not mind letting the hot water run for like 30 seconds or so.
 
Looking for tips and sanity check before I spend a bunch of money.

I have a slow leak behind one of my walls and the only way to get to it is to tear out a tiled shower or tear out the wall behind the water heater. I know as soon as I touch that 20 year-old heater it's going to fail so I'm thinking it's time to upgrade to a tankless.

From what I'm reading, a condensing unit will be better for where I want to put it.

I'm looking at some standard 8-10gpm Rheems I can order online. I think my well can only do like 6gph so I don't see much of a reason to go much bigger on the WH.

Of course, because I live in a renovated barn, everything has to be more complicated.

This is where the WH currently lives. That little door on the right side of the loft is the HVAC closet and where I'd like to mount the tankless.
1672943474847.png




Inside the HVAC closet - above the door. This is where I'd like to mount it. It's the spot that's least likely to be in the way for future HVAC repairs or replacement. Light fixture can be relocated to the side wall or ceiling.
1672939126566.png




This is looking up through that door. PVC lines are the exhaust for the two propane furnaces. The 4" pipe going through the old 8" is the existing WH vent from below.

The new WH would be mounted just above to door jamb. You can just see the lightbulb from the pic above. Plan would be to 90 over and then 90 up the 8" chimney pipe with the exhaust, and possibly the intake.
1672939081657.png




Looking at Rheem's install manual, it doesn't have any max lengths or number of bends in the exhaust/intake and what I'm doing is pretty much exactly what they're showing here, so that shouldn't be a problem. The only thing they spec is the exhaust terminating 12" above the intake. That might be a problem with the cap that's on that chimney pipe.
1672944274450.png




So one question I have is - the two furnaces have propane burners for emergency heat only. They exhaust through the PVC lines you see in the pics, but they're just intaking combustion air straight out of the closet. The closet door is vented so they can pull out of the house and I believe that 8" chimney pipe also allows air to flow in.

Could I do the same for the WH? Just vent the exhaust and let it pull in combustion air from the room?




The propane line for the existing WH actually tees off from the same line as the HVAC in that closet so I should be able to remove the old line at the tee and route to the new WH from there. It'll only be about 4' of pipe. I guess I need to see what the new WH needs as far as pressure to make sure that line can handle it.



I'll have to run some temporary pex through that closet to tie back in to the existing supply and hot water lines. Eventually I'll have the other side of that wall opened up for a bath remodel and will get them buried then, but that's a good year out.



Anything stupid about this plan? Or anything I should look at doing differently?
First things first, where do you live? What is the ground water minimum temp?

On tankless you're paying for gpm at a temperature rise.

In my locale, with 50f or less water temp, even the largest tankless would struggle to keep up much beyond a single shower at a time.
 
Let me guess,

you personally do not own a tankless. Right?
Tankless fucking sucks for lots of reasons. They're expensive and fragile and complicated and clog up.

Big old dumb gas burning natural vent tank only needs a couple components to run, and thermocouples are available at any hardware store on a weekend. Plus they work just great even when the power is out.

The arguement for tankless is usually "you're not wasting energy"

Well, the heat my tank is losing is being lost into my house, which I am also heating. It ain't lost.
 
Tankless should have either a hot water recirc installed or hot water on demand at the faucets to make up for the dwell time (think furthest from the tank) unless you do not mind letting the hot water run for like 30 seconds or so.
As I understand it, the recirculating on-demand hot water stuff wont' work with a tankless for the same reason I think tankless water heaters suck donkey cawk (see below).

Also, if you're losing heat into all that plumbing, you're running your water heater when there's no demand so you're losing a lot of the tankless "benefits".


Let me guess,

you personally do not own a tankless. Right?
I personally do own a tankless and fucking hate it. Tankless in the pantry only feeds 1 1/4 bath sink, laundry mo-sheen, utility sink, and kitchen sink. To get hot water at the kitchen sink, you need to crank the hot valve all the way open and wait . . . then, if no hot water, close the hot & reopen; hopefully hearing the tankless kick on. It's a Bosch and maybe just needs fiddling with, so I'll give that a shot. However, wife & I are on the same "fuck that water heater" page.

Will likely replace w/ an old-school 20 year tank-style water heater. We have 2 tanked water heaters (house is weird) and they work fucking perfectly. Also, everything Muckin_Slusher just said. Cheap and available parts, easy to diagnose & fix, and no goddamned finicky tankless bullshit drama.
 
Tankless should have either a hot water recirc installed or hot water on demand at the faucets to make up for the dwell time (think furthest from the tank) unless you do not mind letting the hot water run for like 30 seconds or so.
Get used to washing your hands in cold water because you don't want to wait until you get hit water. :flipoff2:

Other than that I love how much money it saves me and that I can't run out of hot water, once it gets here.
 
What is your water quality like? Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) play a major role in clogging the heat exchanger which will eventually reduce flow and cause issues. If your well water isn’t great, you might want to filter what is being fed to the tankless.

Also, what region are you in? The max delta temperature (coldest incoming water to desired hot water temp) can also drive what BTU rating you need.
 
Get used to washing your hands in cold water because you don't want to wait until you get hit water. :flipoff2:

Other than that I love how much money it saves me and that I can't run out of hot water, once it gets here.

My current tank setup takes a good 30-45 seconds to get hot water to the fixtures. Don't see the tankless being any worse. :confused:
 
Like anything, quality is key. Buy a GOOD one and you won’t have much issue. Also make sure that you’re not running crazy hard water through it. My new Rinnai has a built-in circulation pump. It also senses when hot water is used, and adjusts to have hot water ready to go early in the morning at its learned peak usage time. It’s quiet, takes up very little space, and was very easy to Plumb.

And if the power goes out, it’s a non-issue. It actually plugged into an outlet. So I could easily plug it into a basic generator, or my pick up if I had to😅
 
Get used to washing your hands in cold water because you don't want to wait until you get hit water. :flipoff2:

Other than that I love how much money it saves me and that I can't run out of hot water, once it gets here.
My house has a hot water recirc so I have hot water in about 3-5 seconds from anywhere in the house. :grinpimp:
 
As I understand it, the recirculating on-demand hot water stuff wont' work with a tankless for the same reason I think tankless water heaters suck donkey cawk (see below).

Also, if you're losing heat into all that plumbing, you're running your water heater when there's no demand so you're losing a lot of the tankless "benefits".



I personally do own a tankless and fucking hate it. Tankless in the pantry only feeds 1 1/4 bath sink, laundry mo-sheen, utility sink, and kitchen sink. To get hot water at the kitchen sink, you need to crank the hot valve all the way open and wait . . . then, if no hot water, close the hot & reopen; hopefully hearing the tankless kick on. It's a Bosch and maybe just needs fiddling with, so I'll give that a shot. However, wife & I are on the same "fuck that water heater" page.

Will likely replace w/ an old-school 20 year tank-style water heater. We have 2 tanked water heaters (house is weird) and they work fucking perfectly. Also, everything Muckin_Slusher just said. Cheap and available parts, easy to diagnose & fix, and no goddamned finicky tankless bullshit drama.
My house has the recirc pump configuration with a tankless gas hot water on demand. Works great for us. Our unit is a Navien tank.
The hot water on demand is essentially like Bunn water spigots. It superheats the hot water line with electric heat strips if it is sub-specified temp using electricity and cuts off once the actual hot water shows up.
 
Goddamnit! Well, it's probably almost as inefficient as a tank now:flipoff2:
Instead of heat loss from an insulated tank, you get heat loss from every bit of pipe :laughing:

In that case, tell people you need a tankless for high volume, not energy savings :grinpimp:
 
Instead of heat loss from an insulated tank, you get heat loss from every bit of pipe :laughing:

In that case, tell people you need a tankless for high volume, not energy savings :grinpimp:
Eh, the hot water recirc loop is well insulated. Our energy bill is surprisingly low in our house compared to a smaller one we used to rent, and even apartments we have had.
The nicest thing about the tankless is having unlimited hot water during a power outage with very low power draw, aside from the well pump, of course.
I think any system is going to have a drawback of some sort. You just have to figure out which one you can live with and decide for yourself.:beer:
 
I just replaced older tankless with another
The first one was cheapest on amazin. The next came from there also. It holds a constant temp in shower. First did not. I like them now.
20230105_171334.jpg
 
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I vote replace it with another dumb gas tank style heater.

We all know you have a fucking massive house. It's not like you live in a single wide and are hard up for space.

Tankless should have a hot water recirc installed
Having a loop of water going around again and again enough to kick the thing on defeats the entire point of a tankless. :shaking::lmao:
 
I have my recirc pump permanently ON and it's powered by a smart outlet.
I use an Alexa routine with the command "Alexa hot water" to get "instant" hot water in my rear bedrooms when needed.
This could be expanded to use smart buttons in lieu of voice commands, widgets on phone or geolocation based tracking to cycle the pump as you arrive at the house.
Also you can just simply schedule the recirc pump based on times, much simpler than the little bullshit tabs on the pump itself.
 
Better make it electric demand or Gretta will hunt you down :flipoff2:
The last time I had a small electric demand unit it had a 3/8" tube coming out, the hot water was just a trickle. Never again!
 
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