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Swapping alternator on 94 toyota truck with 22re. Anything I need to know?

blakes

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I got a buddy in a bind who needs help swapping the alternator this afternoon. He is not mechanically inclined and thinks you need to remove the driver side wheel. Is this true?

Will be at a parking lot at the bar where he works.

I have plenty of tools, etc.

Anything I need to know?

Or just swap it out?
 
righty tighty lefty loosy

damn, sooo close ...

It's lefty loosey first
... then ...
after the component has been replaced
it then becomes righty tighty

Edit to add picture of that exact unit
342E0CD1-75C1-488D-BABF-F73C254442D0.jpeg


If’n I remember correctly, you’ll need 10, 12 and 14 mm, and the bottom hardware is easiest from underneath

... of course, you’ll have to remove the front skid plate ...



Probably not worth starting a new thread just for that part of the job :flipoff2:
 
Last edited:
from memory its just swap it out

if you have a tough time getting to the connectors pull the wheel to get some easier side access, but i wouldn't pull the wheel right away
 
yes. it's easier from the wheel well. Or from below with skid plate off.
 
This thing has no tensioner that I can see.

Also, the PS pump/hose is leaking all over the alternator. Is that what killed it?

Oh and I repositioned the PS hose clamp. It's doesn't leak when turning right/left.

1000007669.jpg
 
Tensioner is the bolt on top in your picture. Use a primary to tension, tighten bolt
 
Yup. The alternator pivots and is the tensioner. Loosen the bottom bolt, then the top bolt to pivot.
 
History lesson~
On August 28th 1937, the Toyoda Motor Company was founded by Kiichiro Toyoda. It is Japan's largest company, with about 371,000 employees-
 
A 10, 12 and 2 14mm is all that's needed other than a pry bar to tension it. Stupid simple job.
 
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