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Starting System Rebuild Q's

posford

posford

:flipoff2:
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
62
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Background: 91 Ford Ranger, 351w under the hood, battery relocated to bed. Used 2 gauge jumper cables for leads when battery was relocated. Correct terminals, crimped and heat shrink wrapped. Both positive and ground running from battery to engine compartment, with a isolated terminal for the positive, and ground bolted direct to motor. Ground from motor to frame with same 2 gauge cable, and a separate short ground from the battery to the frame under the bed, with the 2 gauge cable.

Problem: Starts hard, battery must be 110% to even think about starting truck. Jump power with another battery to the positive isolated terminal in the engine bay, with the ground to the aluminum accessory drive, fires right up.

Assumptions: I'm guessing the 2 gauge cable isn't up to snuff, and I plan on buying a length of 2/0 cable to replace the positive side. I've rethought the full length ground, and plan to redo the ground from battery to frame, and from frame to motor, using the frame as the ground.

Questions:
  1. Should I use braided ground cables from battery to frame, and frame to motor?
  2. Thinking about adding additional ground straps, from motor to cab, or frame to cab. Lets assume there are no ground straps at the moment, because I can't verify what's there, and what's still good. Where should I have other paths to ground? and size?
  3. Changing winch solenoid to an albright style, remote mounted on the inner core support, M10000 on front bumper. What size cables should I be using? Should I run a ground just to the frame, or should I consider running a ground cable back to the battery for this?
I want to redo this right, not in a money be damned sort of way, but in a I need to stop being a cheap fuck kind of way. I could really use some guidance. Thanks
 
Jumper cable wire is generally the cheapest shit available in China. Might even be aluminum.

Use good 2/0 welding cable, or stripped GGC cable.

At the battery are you using military terminals? (you should be)
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Jumper cable wire is generally the cheapest shit available in China. Might even be aluminum.

Use good 2/0 welding cable, or stripped GGC cable.

At the battery are you using military terminals? (you should be)
Click to expand...

Not familiar with the GGC acronym?

Just googled military terminals, the ones I have are similar but not what google showed me. what are typically called marine style I believe, like below. Good enough, or switch to military style?

51wwkf9CI6L._AC_SX355_.jpg
 
posford said:
Not familiar with the GGC acronym?

Just googled military terminals, the ones I have are similar but not what google showed me. what are typically called marine style I believe, like below. Good enough, or switch to military style?

51wwkf9CI6L._AC_SX355_.jpg
Click to expand...

GGC is a term for trailing cable (powers mobile machinery). It stands for Ground/Ground Check. It's just a cheap place to get basically welding cable with really great insulation for cheap or free. Lots of work to strip without damage though.

I like the military connectors because you can put up to 4 crimp on lugs on one, and you can tighten the fuck outta the bolt. I buy the NOCO ones from amazon. They're cheap and good, which is rare.

View attachment 15LM95_AS01.jfif

GGC-Mining-Cable-302.jpg
 
posford said:
Not familiar with the GGC acronym?

Just googled military terminals, the ones I have are similar but not what google showed me. what are typically called marine style I believe, like below. Good enough, or switch to military style?

51wwkf9CI6L._AC_SX355_.jpg
Click to expand...

i prefer the marine style that you've got over the military style as long as you have the space above them.

I have seen more than 1 hood with burn marks on it from there terminals :laughing:
 
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