How are you planning to wire it, only using PNW signal from LS or using the 2 Spal harnesses and Spal temp sensor?
Slight hiccup but I got it installed with a 05 E40 ecm set to PWM electric and 128hz. At 1st it was running really slow at commanded 100% and allowed the engine to get hot. Found a hptuner post that said non-oem fans use inverse or reverse logic. 8% is full speed. Re-wrote tune and this thing blows :cool:!
There is a pull up resistor on the white wire to the battery positive input, you should have system voltage there when your control system is off. If you simply ground the white wire the fan will be "on" but not running. If you want to run manually you need to ground the white and power the analog (yellow). I have a rig setup with the exact fan you are using that way as the ECU is only on/off. If you have PWM available it is the way to go. Make sure your shroud is not tweaking things and causing the blade to rub the shroud.
The fan spins freely, I had it go into safe mode last year when I went thru some deep water. Thought it was dead until I cycled the ignition.
Yesterday, when it stopped working, the system was being controlled by PWM. The ECM fan wire was not grounding, but I only checked it while it was not up to full temp and therefore commanding ground. I didn't know grounding white and powering yellow would trick it to turn on, but I will test that. Wish I would have posted up yesterday, I'd still be on the trails!
What I don't understand is what changed to cause it to stop working in the 1st place. The yellow wire was never connected to anything. Any idea what signal type and/or measurement I should be looking to get from the ECM while in PWM mode?
What was the scenario when it was stopped recently?
I don't see that, just assumed in-rush current is higher than operating. I had 60A fuse blow/melt and engine got hot.Where do you see 100a? It looks like 10ga wiring to the fan so I can't imagine it'd be 100a...
Also, any issues grounding to chassis vs back to battery?
I don't see that, just assumed in-rush current is higher than operating. I had 60A fuse blow/melt and engine got hot.
Mine has ground direct to battery.
Thanks for the info. 40A breaker ordered.For breaker or fuse sizing the fan is a soft start so it does not pull an inrush like the brushed versions of the past. The start up amperage is very close to the running amperage. IIRC the 17" 500W fans pull 34.5A at 15V. That being said if you burned up a 60A fuse with a 300W fan it was probably due to a bad/corroded connection that caused the high resistance.
With the brushless fan and the smart driver you are not protecting the fan you are protecting the wires going to the fan. Size so if the wires short out they do not melt down the vehicle and start a fire.