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So what do I need to know about adding Solar to an RV

I have a lot more reading to do. But I'm thinking how you'd put a battery bank together from nothing. Is every charging source just isolated as it's own system (engine alt direct to battery, generator and/or plug-in 'shore power' run battery charger, solar battery controller/charger). Simple as that? No mushroom clouds if everything is running at the same time? Probably how RV's are setup?

Or are there all-in-one 'plug in whatever source you got' battery controller/charger/monitors out there? Is that's what I'm seeing these $1000 controller/inverters are? Run every power source to that and let it figure it out what to do.
There are all in one's out there, but most ppl run separated.

I have a solar controller, feed from the alternator, and inverter/charger on mine.
 
In my RV the shore power charger and solar charge controller get along just fine. On solar only I just flip the breaker off to keep the inverter from powering the charger (no infinite power).

My RV sits on a shore power cord in storage and the solar is blocked by the roof, still no problems.

With 400w on the roof, you will find you won't need simultaneous charging from the alternator and solar. If it gets cloudy that will change obviously but that can be solved by a simple jumper, switch, relay, VSR etc. only limit being your budget.
 
Ok lets talk charge controllers for the 2 100w panels on my rig...
no idea what brand.
The setup is
2 panels feeding a garbage amazon mohoo 20a pw m? (Cheap chicom junk) controller that the instructions were written by a chink speed freak on withdrawls.
No WAY to decipher how to program it.
kicks into float at 13.7-8 volts
if I give the ole lady an inverter she will just go nutz MORE using lighting\ect. when the sun is out and shit.
I need to push max juice into the bank
2\ 12v group 31's as I can before dark.
usually a 3 day dry camp scenario.
 
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:flipoff2: you holmz:beer:
And
:flipoff2::flipoff2: Me fer owning that garbage:stirthepot:

lemme go chop up a railer and ask the tweaker to decipher it???
hell no, best ask ibb:grinpimp:
shoot I just need a decent unit to deliver the most bang for the buck outta the array, for the 4-5 time a season it goes out.
 
Doing some reading, looks like I need to figure out how my junk is wired , how many watts they are rated at, and by who the panels are made.
so I can then source an m style controler....
Yes?:beer:
This chicom junk won't respond to program input in a repeatable fashion:emb:
 
You should have two leads coming from your solar panels. Measure the voltage coming out of them when in the sun, and that will give you an idea how it's wired.

From there, a decent mppt controller will allow you to maximize how much power you can produce, and that's about it.
 
Thanx I went thru the setup yesterday, the array is in parallel, the run is @ 10' ish flooded batts.
Looks like a 75/20 would be plenty (guess) not adding any if these will actually power better .
After reading the parameters the pwm is just lame, someone said "do it right once "????
NO Doubt!
Shity cheap sux, why buy renology panels and chicom controller, the harness probably cost more !
2 100w renology mono panel 21x 47" 22 v open circuit v, 5.70 A each.
I don't need bells and whistles, any of the mppt models to stay away from???
 
No direct experience, but from what I've read, mppt is mppt. Look up will prowse on YouTube for good mppt reviews
 
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Ok so the you tube guys say for series work the voltages must match, (but not within HOW MUCH) I read "don't use a 12v and a 6-8v in series...." Or some such #?
What about 18.6 and 18.2???panel vmp
 
Ok so the you tube guys say for series work the voltages must match, (but not within HOW MUCH) I read "don't use a 12v and a 6-8v in series...." Or some such #?
What about 18.6 and 18.2???panel vmp
Meh probably close enough. Maybe series them?

I have drank the blue victron Gatorade. It's good stuff.

Go bigger on the Controller. Not tons more $ and you will want more panels in the future. (I had to upgrade mine....)
 
I got room for 2 more 100w panels, but the shiitty installation and pre chased ?#12? Wiring in the camper is a tad suspect, I figure to do one step up controller at 2 or 400 w...
More research:emb:
the renogy website sux:homer:
cheaper than the blue company:eek:
Brb
 
fyi my two 12v 200w panels are in series for 24v.

more volts, smaller gauge wire.

just a random thought.

p.s. blue stufd is awesome. no i mean really, it is. and not that much more expensive. mine even has bluetooth and a phone app.
 
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That's what I was going to say, if you're limited on wire size, put the panels in series. Halves your amperage going from 12v to 24v, or 18-36v or whatever.
 
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Go victron Smart 100/30 and don't look back.
That is 400w of power in any form with 12v panels and plenty of flexibility to have some future proofness.

Combine that with smart battery sense module and you have temperature compensation and cable compensation built in with a bad ass app for monitoring and troubleshooting.
 
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Over July 4th week we ran a table top ice maker all day when the town ran out of ice.
Bested my all time production numbers for my 400w array.
 

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Sort of the reason for the question of "matching panel size\voltages"
It seems the smallish feed wires would like the series setup , this loses the shading efficiency part but seems to put more usable juice per day into the bank ?yes?
I need to check the ga. On the setup.
So looking at controller \displays is there a reason for the bluetooth readout vs an lcd screen on the controller?
I would rather not dick with my "stupid fone" (have I mentioned I h8 puters lately?)
but the pos pwm controller has gotta go first

You guy's rock thanx cb

Edit
hmmm more homework time
new posters as I was typing:laughing:
 
Go victron art 100/30 and don't look back.

edit
dis mean "smart"?
That is 400w of power in any form with 12v panels and plenty of flexibility to have some future proofness.
Edit
I like this part
What's proofness?
edit the edit
phawkin webster listing slang terms as words:flipoff2:
Combine that with smart battery sense module and you have temperature compensation and cable compensation built in with a bad ass app for monitoring and troubleshooting.
edit
homework time...
 
Bluetooth readout vs LCD screen opinion:

Bluetooth is nice because the app that pairs with the device is usually easier + faster to use than the tiny LCD screen. Gives more data too. Bluetooth connections FTW.
 
818
Never
we had clean pharmaceutical grade chitt.:laughing:
but I get I type like a crackhead:flipoff2:
oh and ritlan baby much:lmao:
 
Sort of the reason for the question of "matching panel size\voltages"
It seems the smallish feed wires would like the series setup , this loses the shading efficiency part but seems to put more usable juice per day into the bank ?yes?
I need to check the ga. On the setup.
So looking at controller \displays is there a reason for the bluetooth readout vs an lcd screen on the controller?
I would rather not dick with my "stupid fone" (have I mentioned I h8 puters lately?)
but the pos pwm controller has gotta go first

You guy's rock thanx cb

Edit
hmmm more homework time
new posters as I was typing:laughing:
I don't know if we ever really determined what your setup was, sketchy panels and wiring was all I recall.
I really think you should get a picture of the back of each different panel or do some open circuit voltage testing to actually measure the difference.

Smaller wires to roof favors running in series or series/parallel if needed because due to ohms law as voltage goes up amperage goes down.
With a MPPT controller it doesn't care what the voltage is above the charging voltage as long as it is the range of the controller it will happily charge a 12v battery at the correct voltage with a near 100v of PV voltage.

The series/parallel argument gets heated in RV circles because it is not as good for shading or irregular clouds. The one shade on one panel group will reduce the production on the other panel group significantly. If you camp in the open in sun this won't be a problem but if you are in Seattle in the forest it would.

Ideally you would run 4 ga cable to the roof and parallel the 400w panels but I have found for me it isn't needed, I have 8ga ran up there and the branch circuits are on 10ga.
I have an idea to create a series parallel relay system to allow me to switch the wiring from the ground depending on the conditions but I have not felt the need to implement that and it's probably simpler to just re-configure the panel wiring in the fall and again in spring if I need the extra juice.
 
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looks like the puter is rebelling again....
this
Maximum Power:100W
Maximum System Voltage:600V DC (UL)
Optimum Operating Voltage:18.00V
Optimum Operating Current:5.56A
Open-Circuit Voltage (Voc):22.5V
Short-Circuit Current (Isc):5.81A
Dimensions:46.3*21.0*0.9inch (117.5*53.5*2.5 cm)
Weight:16.5lb,(7.5kg)
is the dokio dsp-100m



SPECIFICATIONS
Maximum Power at STC: 100WCell Efficiency: 21.00%
Optimum Operating Voltage (Vmp): 18.6VOpen-Circuit Voltage (Voc): 22.3V
Optimum Operating Current (Imp): 5.38AShort-Circuit Current (Isc): 5.86A
Operating Temperature: -40°F to 176°FMaximum Series Fuse Rating: 15A
Solar Cells: 33 CellsMaximum System Voltage: 600V DC (UL)
Weight: 14.3lbs/6.5kgDimensions: 42.4 X 20.0 X 1.4 In
this is the renogy rng-100d

the lead wire gauge from the roof is only 10 ga.
 
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I bought a Renogy kits with 40amp MPPT controller, it's just dumb easy.
I read way to much about different controllers and pannels and got confused and frustrated.
 
finally got around to putting my stuff together :lmao:

tried to get everything i'd need together, only had to make 1 run to the store for some ring connectors i thought i had :rasta:

IMG_2021-08-10_13-28-09.jpeg


Trimmed up the fire extinguisher mount in the RV
IMG_2021-08-10_14-02-24.jpeg


Plenty of room to access the wires



IMG_2021-08-10_14-02-31.jpeg


I'm glad i spent the extra money on getting duplex wires, made it easier to route everything

IMG_2021-08-10_15-19-43.jpeg


had to trim up the coach side mount a bit. This goes to the void under my refridgerator, so plenty of air circulation to keep the controller cooled off

IMG_2021-08-10_15-33-09.jpeg


mounted, nothing else is particularly aligned but at least this is out of the way, near the battery and I didn't have to pull up the carpet


IMG_2021-08-10_15-48-53.jpeg


Really happy with the all weather connectors for making my extension cord

IMG_2021-08-10_16-21-38.jpeg


and with a single 100w panel sitting up in full sun, it's making just over 5 amps.

IMG_2021-08-10_16-34-39.jpeg


and because i'm not hard mounting my panel, i made a blank plug. when i'm traveling, i'll plug this into the line underneath where the step goes to keep dirt and grime out of the plugs, then when i'm stopped pop up the panel wherever is easy

IMG_2021-08-10_16-41-49.jpeg


if it works out well, the controller can handle 3 panels total which should be well plenty for what i'm going for, being a cheap PWM makes life easy.


edit: pulling up the specs for the PWM controller and the panel,

PWM controller is rated max 55 V open circuit and 20 Amp

panel is rated 21.3 V open circuit 5.83 amp short circuit for 100w 12v HSQT monocrstyalline panel

to max out the controller with these panels safely, doing 2 in series and then parrelling 3 sets would put the whole system at a max of 42.6 volts and 17.49 amp using 600 watts worth of panels. maybe enough to burn everything down? i dunno :laughing: first thing would be to add in parallel up to 3 panels and then if that isn't enough, buy a 3 pack and series them in.
 
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3 sets paralleled of 2 panels (with those specs) in series sounds like the ideal setup for that PWM! I'd do that in a heartbeat.

Also yes, duplex cable FTW. Love that shit.
 
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