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So, is the Ferd 7.3 awesome or not?

:laughing:

If it was below 20 with my 7.3 Powerstroke, I just planned on not using it that day.

I spent many winter mornings of frustration with that truck. Once it did start, it was great.

same here. Have to plug it in to warm the block and top up the batteries every night when it is that cold. Not really that big of a problem if it comes home every night, but it means I cant drive it to the airport or winter camping or something else where it will be parked away from a plug. Winter start headaches are why I currently lean to a gasser to replace it when the time comes.
 
I'm mostly concerned with it starting after sitting for a week at -40 without the assistance of a block heater.


I have a 18 ram 6.7, night and day over my 02 5.9. It starts cold, and gets heat like a gas engine. I’ve started it at -20 with no block heater, fired right up. I try and plug it in below 0 just because it’s easier on the engine.
 
I’m calling bullshit. My mom has a CRD 5.9 mega cab She bought brand new. It’s 100% stock and has had the injectors changed twice now, it’s somewhere in the 200k mile range. Thankfully she’s smart enough to stop immediately when the check engine lights flashing, she saved it from engine damage both times. My brother in law wasn’t as smart or lucky. Also 100% stock, had two injectors fail at the same time and it broke piston rings scarring both cylinders before he got it shut down. No chips/tuners exhaust on either one, both still have the stock size tires on them even.
Poriggity

I've had my 04 5.9 since brand new as well. I had absolutely no warning when the injector let go.. My engine doesn't have a tuner either. Stock engine upgraded clutch when they rebuilt the engine.
 
I've had my 04 5.9 since brand new as well. I had absolutely no warning when the injector let go.. My engine doesn't have a tuner either. Stock engine upgraded clutch when they rebuilt the engine.

I had a 2007 5.9 i bought new, lost an injector just before the 100k mark, i caught it in time.


you guys with your 7.3 that cant get them started without plug, its cause somethings wrong
glow plugs, harnesses, gpr,
or weak batteries, bad cables shitty starter etc not spinning it fast enough.
Both of mine spin right to life at 20* with once cycle of plugs, nothing fancy but a denso starter on both
 
I had a 2007 5.9 i bought new, lost an injector just before the 100k mark, i caught it in time.


you guys with your 7.3 that cant get them started without plug, its cause somethings wrong
glow plugs, harnesses, gpr,
or weak batteries, bad cables shitty starter etc not spinning it fast enough.
Both of mine spin right to life at 20* with once cycle of plugs, nothing fancy but a denso starter on both

How does it do at -40 for a week without a block heater?

It's not often I have those conditions, but occasionally I do. That's a big reason why I want gas.
 
I had a 2007 5.9 i bought new, lost an injector just before the 100k mark, i caught it in time.


you guys with your 7.3 that cant get them started without plug, its cause somethings wrong
glow plugs, harnesses, gpr,
or weak batteries, bad cables shitty starter etc not spinning it fast enough.
Both of mine spin right to life at 20* with once cycle of plugs, nothing fancy but a denso starter on both

Have to point out they said -20 not 20. But both of my 7.3 super duties would start at -20 without being plugged in and if they didn't it was time for at least 2 glow plugs. -30ish it started becoming a crap shoot though.
 
I had a 2007 5.9 i bought new, lost an injector just before the 100k mark, i caught it in time.


you guys with your 7.3 that cant get them started without plug, its cause somethings wrong
glow plugs, harnesses, gpr,
or weak batteries, bad cables shitty starter etc not spinning it fast enough.
Both of mine spin right to life at 20* with once cycle of plugs, nothing fancy but a denso starter on both

20 degrees is a warm day.

-20 and colder is where you start finding weaknesses and don't want to have to be working on stuff to get it to start, for me it's usually batteries followed by gelled summer diesel in equipment.

Personally I much prefer my remote start 5.3 that will always start just fine in the winter and I don't have to feel bad about firing it up for short trips or leave it idle.
 
Both of mine spin right to life at 20* with once cycle of plugs, nothing fancy but a denso starter on both


20 F you say? That is impressive.

The only problems I have had with my 6.7 fords is -20, fuel doesn't like it. I won't plug it in unless it gets below -10, but it usually sleeps in a garage. If i'm up north and it gets that cold, I'll also throw a canvas tarp over the hood.:homer:
 
I missed where they said -20 not 20
yea any diesel going to not be happy in those temps or beyond, Definitely a gasser

and my dodge and ford 6.7’s Definitely started better than 7.3 diesel, no fucking disputing that

if i ever bought a newer hd truck again, it will be gas for all the reasons listed in this thread
 
20 F you say? That is impressive.

The only problems I have had with my 6.7 fords is -20, fuel doesn't like it. I won't plug it in unless it gets below -10, but it usually sleeps in a garage. If i'm up north and it gets that cold, I'll also throw a canvas tarp over the hood.:homer:

I came here for input on the new 7.3 but since this has turned into a cold start diesel thread... I've yet to have my 6.7 Ford not start in the 4 winters I've had it, but at -20 to -30 it you can certainly tell its cold out and I'm waiting for the day the remote start doesn't work. knock on wood haven't had a fuel gelling problem yet. I don't even know if the block heater works because I never use it.

Dad's 7.3 Powerstroke on the other hand, if its below 0 be prepared to jump it, and below -10 or so just plan on plugging it in and starting it at lunch when it warms up a little. It probably needs new glow plugs though. Have gelled it up a couple times.

Both trucks live outside, and my dad never leaves his 7.3 anywhere remotely near an outlet.
 
Injector condition is a factor also. New injectors on 7.3s start better in cold.

Oh course, I'm not seeing - 10 or even 10* :flipoff2:
 
Getting back to the 7.3 gasser debate. I spec’d out a few trucks for entertainment and learning purposes. It’s sickening to see how much even a gasser pickup costs these days. The diesel I’d like ranges between $70-$80k. Similar 7.3 10 spd gassers from $55-$65k. :barf:

You can order them with 4.30 gears which I would for sure do.
 
Getting back to the 7.3 gasser debate. I spec’d out a few trucks for entertainment and learning purposes. It’s sickening to see how much even a gasser pickup costs these days. The diesel I’d like ranges between $70-$80k. Similar 7.3 10 spd gassers from $55-$65k. :barf:

You can order them with 4.30 gears which I would for sure do.

This is my issue too. Most of the 7.3 gasers are 3-5K away from the powerstroke.... makes it hard not not want the diesel.
 
Getting back to the 7.3 gasser debate. I spec’d out a few trucks for entertainment and learning purposes. It’s sickening to see how much even a gasser pickup costs these days. The diesel I’d like ranges between $70-$80k. Similar 7.3 10 spd gassers from $55-$65k. :barf:

You can order them with 4.30 gears which I would for sure do.

Theres not one on the lot nearby, but they have 60 f250 diesels.

I then looked into F150 diesel and nothing, but 60 3.5 EcoBlows.

Dealers dont order cool shit, just trucks they can fuck you on for the most profit. Try to order one and theyll get ya with no lube.
 
Then there is cheaper maintenance, no Def, ect. But then probably significantly worse mileage and the diesel resale usually makes it worth it to go diesel.

I'm thinking if the 7.3s gain popularity, there will be more at dealers and the prices will come down. Maybe :confused:
 
From what I've seen and I've been shopping pretty hard, need to take delivery by the end of year. You can get a 7.3 in a work truck but you get white 99% of the time or a lariat/ king ranch. Probably 1/4 or so of gasser are the 7.3 on lots, my problem is 95% seem to be short beds not a damn long bed to be seen. Looking at msrp around 50k otd should be 42k roughly, modern diesels are not worth it imo unless you are running in the mountains constantly loaded or grossing more than 20k evey day.
 
I built one of these exactly how I want it for 2022. (Roughly). Came in at 55k (65k) after tax and it’s what I think I want to haul a large truck camper.
DRW with all the meaningful upgrades for towing and the camper. No leather, no bells and whistles not needed. X Plan through work.
Going to be the last new vehicle I’ll ever buy.
Watching any thread related to this truck.
It seems to check all the boxes for me and I’m not really concerned about mileage.
 
Fark new trucks are expensive. So glad we bought our 02 f350 4wd 7.3 in 04. Still only has 120k miles and tows our gooseneck 3 horse trailer like a dream. 18-20 mpg towing or not and only replaced u joints plus regular maintenance. We won't be buying a new truck again. Damn people keep asking to buy it.

Had to check mileage log and corrected it.
 
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On an F 250, looks like you have to get a 6.7 diesel to upgrade to the heavy duty rear axle. What's the difference? Is this like the old Chevy 2500/2500 HD thing? Seems kind of hokey you can't get the heaviest axle for the 7.3
 
Fark new trucks are expensive. So glad we bought our 02 f350 4wd 7.3 in 04. Still only has 120k miles and tows our gooseneck 3 horse trailer like a dream. 18-20 mpg towing or not and only replaced u joints plus regular maintenance. We won't be buying a new truck again. Damn people keep asking to buy it.

Had to check mileage log and corrected it.

damn just think if it was a cummins you would be getting 25.
 
On an F 250, looks like you have to get a 6.7 diesel to upgrade to the heavy duty rear axle. What's the difference? Is this like the old Chevy 2500/2500 HD thing? Seems kind of hokey you can't get the heaviest axle for the 7.3

The the rear axle in the gas F250 is the Sterling 10.5", not a light duty axle at all and what they used in the rears of all Super Duties for years until they went tot he Dana 275mm rear
 
Who knew they put a Cummings in an F250. Did you have to add a transfer tank to hold all the fuel it makes while towing?

It's a 350 with low mileage and paid for and people want it. Can't be all that bad.:flipoff2:
 
The the rear axle in the gas F250 is the Sterling 10.5", not a light duty axle at all and what they used in the rears of all Super Duties for years until they went tot he Dana 275mm rear

So what does 'Upgraded axle' mean?

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