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Snowy's Village Whore Tacoma

Well, I’m an idiot and ordered 40’s to run on minitruck stuff. But at least it looks cool


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what rear springs you running? I like the wheelbase!

They’re an old set of AllPro 4” mini truck springs with a few leaves pulled out and hangers slid forward a handful of inches. I think WB is about 116”. Probably one of the last sets of springs that left AP before papa TG took over.

I’m going to have a bunch of questions when I get around to building a front axle. Just using my 05+ SD60 in the corner looks more and more appealing the more I go down the 609 rabbit hole with a HP9/10 costs for a rec wheeler. Any reason you went for the Reid knuckle and WFO steering arm as opposed to weld on steering?
 
They’re an old set of AllPro 4” mini truck springs with a few leaves pulled out and hangers slid forward a handful of inches. I think WB is about 116”. Probably one of the last sets of springs that left AP before papa TG took over.

I’m going to have a bunch of questions when I get around to building a front axle. Just using my 05+ SD60 in the corner looks more and more appealing the more I go down the 609 rabbit hole with a HP9/10 costs for a rec wheeler. Any reason you went for the Reid knuckle and WFO steering arm as opposed to weld on steering?
Gotcha, I run chevy 63s but have been considering shortening my wheelbase when I go to link the back, Im at 128" right now.

I think I am into my front 60 $3400 and so far have yet to break any axle parts with 2yrs of wheeling on 40s. I like the superduty for the simplicity and the fact that you can get 1550 shafts from East coast for 400$ for a pair loaded ready to install. Plus any other parts you can get at a napa or autozone if you break on the trail vs having custom shafts and all that other fun stuff that goes along with a 609

I debated the 609 route but ended up building my tons for under 6gs front and rear so the price point is what kept me from doing it.
I coulda done weld on arms but at the time I was trying to do a protoytype high steer with SYN. When that didn't work out I opted for a Reid and WFO arm cause I didn't feel like pulling my axle apart to weld the high steer arms on (I daily the truck so I was trying to get it back on the road before the next wheeling trip). If I were to do it again I would probablly just get Artec weld on arms.
 
Gotcha, I run chevy 63s but have been considering shortening my wheelbase when I go to link the back, Im at 128" right now.

I think I am into my front 60 $3400 and so far have yet to break any axle parts with 2yrs of wheeling on 40s. I like the superduty for the simplicity and the fact that you can get 1550 shafts from East coast for 400$ for a pair loaded ready to install. Plus any other parts you can get at a napa or autozone if you break on the trail vs having custom shafts and all that other fun stuff that goes along with a 609

I debated the 609 route but ended up building my tons for under 6gs front and rear so the price point is what kept me from doing it.
I coulda done weld on arms but at the time I was trying to do a protoytype high steer with SYN. When that didn't work out I opted for a Reid and WFO arm cause I didn't feel like pulling my axle apart to weld the high steer arms on (I daily the truck so I was trying to get it back on the road before the next wheeling trip). If I were to do it again I would probablly just get Artec weld on arms.

That’s good to know on the arms. I’ve been a lifelong Toyota guy so I’ve got a lot to learn on domestic do’s and don’ts for wheeler axles. The availability for axle shafts even makes it easy to justify running a custom length inner as a $330 spare compared to waiting on RCV for custom stuff on Toyota axles. I’d like to stay around a 63-64” WMS so my truck will still feel/wheel like a mini, and will fit in the enclosed trailer (pinky out).
 
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