Small aux heater for a garage

[71PA_Highboy]

Location; Greensboro NC

GF is looking to re-org her garage and wants to keep a bunch of stuff in there that cannot freeze.

We are looking to add an electric aux heater to keep it above 35 degrees.

We will be putting anything that can freeze in cabinets backing onto a interior wall.

The garage exterior walls are insulated.

The Breaker panel is in the garage and there are open slots so the electrical work will be simple.

Any recommendations?

 

[[memphis]]

Probably cheaper to run a Vevor diesel heater and shoot the exhaust outside through the wall

 

[PAToyota]

GF is looking to re-org her garage and wants to keep a bunch of stuff in there that cannot freeze.

[snip]

We will be putting anything that can freeze in cabinets backing onto a interior wall.

Not exactly clear... Are the things that cannot freeze only in the cabinets? Or are there things in the overall garage that cannot freeze?

If the items that cannot freeze are being stored in the cabinets, insulate them and do something to heat just the cabinets. Much cheaper than trying to heat the whole garage even just to above 35℉.

If the whole garage needs to be heated, I'd go with [memphis]'s suggestion. It also depends on where you're at and how cold it typically gets.

 

[TrikeKid]

I don't know how much she's trying to keep from freezing but insulate the cabinets like PAToyota said, then stick a goldenrod (gunsafe dehumidifier) in em. The smaller one is enough to keep my gun safe 70-75 inside all the time.

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[AKnate]

How big is the garage? A regular 1500 watt heater had no issue keeping my chicken's house above 50* when it was -20*. 10x10 building.

 

[AKnate]

Probably cheaper to run a Vevor diesel heater and shoot the exhaust outside through the wall

Those things suck fuel. Probably 60% efficient.

 

[77fixer]

Probably no matter what, you are going to feel it cost-wise.
When we lived in the RV we supplemented the propane furnace with electric. We were paying either way, but it cut down on propane deliveries theough the winter.
Another example, a place I take care of has a 40x40 garage, insulated, but two double and one single car doors.
It has an electric overhead heater with a fan. Last winter, one of the owners turned that thing on 50* (nothing will be damaged by freezing). The next month I get a phone call wondering why the power bill spiked. I turned it off and no more phone calls

 

[[memphis]]

Those things suck fuel. Probably 60% efficient.

I didn’t think it was so bad. The tank on mine lasted probably 15-18 hours but I guess it was also around $15 to fill. That would add up fast. I also tried to reclaim some of my exhaust heat as well

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

jesus fuck no.

Do not buy any heater with a fan. The noise will drive you bananas, and the fan motor will fail in three days.

Buy baseboard heaters instead. If you want air to move around then buy a separate fan. Don't fall for any bullshit about "efficiency" when you're talking about electric heat, they're all 100% efficient. Baseboard will be by far your best bang for the buck and best for longevity.

Buy a line voltage thermostat to control them.

Also, no you cannot buy too big a heater. You could put in a million watt heater and it would heat the place just fine as long as it's on a thermostat and you can support the electrical load.

Quoting one of my previous responses.

Whether you want to heat just the cabinets, or heat the entire space, and want it to be electric, get a resistive heater that does not require a fan. As stated, goldenrod or baseboard heaters. Your paying for watts, it doesn't matter if the heater is 120 vac or 240 vac, they'll all cost the same to run. The 240 will need smaller wire, but take up two slots in the panel.

Also keep in mind that with the same wattage, a physically larger heater will be cooler to touch (a 100 watt heater that is a foot long you will be able to keep your hand on but if it's 1 inch long it'll catch stuff on fire). Referring to the goldenrod type heaters.

 

[71PA_Highboy]

I think as is typical of this place (an not a problem most of the time) this is being over-engineered.

It isn't a working shop, it is just a 2 car garage, and the outside temps are rarely below freezing in here. I appreciate the answers from our 'colder' folks, but not applicable here.

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Something like this will be more than enough to keep the temps above freezing. The link is not highly reviewed because of the noise, but something like this would be IMHO the right choice.

Not exactly clear... Are the things that cannot freeze only in the cabinets? Or are there things in the overall garage that cannot freeze?

Yes, I am telling her only non-freezables in the cabinets (Paints, Glazes, etc.) and all non-freezables must be in cabinets.

This is for a 70 YO woman who lives alone, so right-sizing is more important than the overbuild I usually do...

 

[AKnate]

I didn’t think it was so bad. The tank on mine lasted probably 15-18 hours but I guess it was also around $15 to fill. That would add up fast. I also tried to reclaim some of my exhaust heat as well

I'd look into a Toyotomi for diesel fired. Very common around here.

The little Eberspacher, Webasto, etc units are generally used in applications where fuel usage isn't so much a concern. I think in paper they are ~80% efficient, so think of a 1960s oil furnace.
I have 2 in the box on my truck as work. They'll easily burn 20 gallons in a day.

Figure diesel at 138k BTUS a gallon. 80% around 110k. At what, $4.50?

Elect... .29 watts per BTU so ~32,200 watts for 110k BTU. At 0.20 kwhr, that's around $6.40.

Hopefully my math us right, just quick napkin math with #s off memory, so might be off a bit.