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Sidewall repair - big hole

WoodburyZuk

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2021
Member Number
3939
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254
So, I grabbed some 41x14.5r17 iroks for basically nothing (traded a tractor I was planning to scrap). All 4 of the tires have the date codes cut out and they have been “disabled” pre recommendation of interco. I called around to several different tire shops asking how they would fix this, if they would fix this, etc. I called busted knuckle to pick their brains on the cold vulcanizing stuff they sell.

My plan is to basically use a sacrificial sidewall from another tire and fill the void and then use the cold vulcanizing stuff around the hole. Another thought was to make a patch out of the sidewall and drill quarter inch holes all around it secure it with carriage bolts and peen over the threads on the outside and run a tube.

If anyone has any input I’m all ears.

I just couldn’t pass up on them, hate to waste good tread.

these will be going on my lightweight samurai buggy ~2300 lbs - as dedicated snow tires.
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Look up sidewall repair boots. I think that on the inside with a new chunk of sidewall vulcanized in is probably your best bet for a backyard fix.

I used one with a tube on my old race rig when a fucking tree went through the sidewall and it's held up just fine.

blackjacktirerepair.com

Or-855 - 10.5" x 15" Off Road Boot Sidewall - BlackJack Tire Supplies, Inc.

10.5" x 15" Off Road Boot Sidewall
blackjacktirerepair.com blackjacktirerepair.com
 
This is the video that got me thinking I could do it.


Also this is the BKOR video


So, I figure with the cold vulcanizing goo plus the extra sidewall that I will be using as a “patch“ I could probably fill the void, and if it doesn’t hold air I’ll run tubes, fuck it.
 
Snow wheeling only? Fuck it, definitely add a sidewall section from another tire and cold vulc it in there. Then maybe back that with a regular rubber patch glued inside the tire.

You're probably going to run them at, what, 2-3psi given the weight of the rig? I'm kinda curious what your plans are for wheels. Single or double beadlocks? You could even get some steel wheels and use tire screws. The tires are fucked anyway, might as well go full YOLO. 😎
 
Honestly, I will probably just bead seal or glue them to these aluminum 17s I took off my wife’s 4runner. They are stock Toyota, so I assume about 7 or 7.5” wide. Should hold the bead nicely. I run my 36s at 1-3psi. I doubt these big 42s will see more than a pound or 2.
 
WoodburyZuk said:
Honestly, I will probably just bead seal or glue them to these aluminum 17s I took off my wife’s 4runner. They are stock Toyota, so I assume about 7 or 7.5” wide. Should hold the bead nicely. I run my 36s at 1-3psi. I doubt these big 42s will see more than a pound or 2.
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Haha I dig the setup idea, definitely keep this updated with pics along the way. I've watched probably too many industrial tire repair videos and then the Busted Knuckle videos and it all seems straightforward enough.
 
I'd toss a second sidewall inside from like a 18 or 19" tire, cut outta a normal sized 31" dia tire from the junk pile
then use a tube to keep the air in

bet you wouldn't even need to do any sorta gluing to keep from squirting the second sidewall through the hole
though some of that cheap urethane caulking gun shit would probably keep the dirt out to keep the tube happy
 
What about mounting another tire inside? I saw a few guys do that as like a home made inner air lock. One used a low pro-ish car tire and one use a light weight ag tire, iirc.

Having ran low pressure in the snow, the one thing that really sucks is leaks. There are times where 1.5-0.5 lbs is where it's at, and there is nothing worse than going flat after a few minutes and having to constantly stop and air up. I'd doubt you'll be able to run zero air in those with any luck.

I think you may have some luck with the vulcanizing, but I wouldn't run them on anything less than a single beadlock with a duct taped inner. Running a 7" wide wheel sounds retarded. You planning on 6" wheel spacers? :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
What about mounting another tire inside? I saw a few guys do that as like a home made inner air lock. One used a low pro-ish car tire and one use a light weight ag tire, iirc.

Having ran low pressure in the snow, the one thing that really sucks is leaks. There are times where 1.5-0.5 lbs is where it's at, and there is nothing worse than going flat after a few minutes and having to constantly stop and air up. I'd doubt you'll be able to run zero air in those with any luck.

I think you may have some luck with the vulcanizing, but I wouldn't run them on anything less than a single beadlock with a duct taped inner. Running a 7" wide wheel sounds retarded. You planning on 6" wheel spacers? :laughing:
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Hadn’t planned that far in advance. Still need to stretch my wheelbase. At least I’ll be able to drive straight
 
Bumping this thread.

I haven’t done shit…

But, what about running a low profile 17” tire INSIDE the 41. And just utilizing the small tire as an “inner air lock”/beadlock. Hypothetically, these 8 ply tires probably don’t need any real pressure on my 2400# samurai.

That way I don’t need to fork over $$$ for beadlocks. Throw some pool noodles inside the tire and run it :laughing:
 
2 options maybe a vulcanization and a tube or scrap them. That’s a huge hole to fill. How do you plan on getting a smaller tire that big enough to do anything in that thing? You would have to make a huge seal twister to get another tire in them.
 
No idea. Hadn’t crossed that bridge yet :homer:

I really want to find some Kevlar thread and stitch a ‘web’ over the hole and try the cold vulcanizing stuff from busted knuckle.

Not sure.

Don’t mind my add brain.:flipoff2:
 
That hole(s) is way too close to the bead. But you might as well try something before throwing them away.

I would think any 37 that will hold air could be smashed inside of there and inflated to be basically an inner tube.

We run tires inside of tires on our race cars. It’s a PITA but with ratchet straps and some manual labor you can get them forced in there
 
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hot vulcanizing is only like 100-200 degrees C depending on which temperature of rubber you buy, so figure 212 to 424F
you could to it all up hadji style, use either kevlar thread or just whatever heavy polyester the sewing store has
Maybe some sorta braided fishing line like triline, but tying knots in it sucks ass compared to sewing thread
 
I’ve done the “bolt another sidewall into it and run a tube” option. No vulcanizing in my case. Carriage bolts and fender washers. A flap or a junk tube around the tube and send it.

It will leak water so you’ll want to not use steel wheels.

Id use button head Allen bolts instead of the carriage bolts since the carriage bolts wear down and start losing the nuts after a year or so. Then you take it apart a fish stanky, rusty carriage bolts out and replace them.

Id use the entire radius of the sacrificial sidewall because a pound of sidewall and hardware on one side will make it shake like crazy.
In my case the section of 10.00-20 sidewall I used made that part of my swamper sidewall stiffer so that part of the tire was both heavier and taller than the rest of the tire. Not a dealbreaker but definitely not what I’d expected
 
JR4X said:
That hole(s) is way too close to the bead. But you might as well try something before throwing them away.

I would think any 37 that will hold air could be smashed inside of there and inflated to be basically an inner tube.

We run tires inside of tires on our race cars. It’s a PITA but with ratchet straps and some manual labor you can get them forced in there
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does the inner tires bead seal in there? I would guess it would be up against the inside of the beadlock lip on the outer side of the wheel but what about the inner side of the wheel?
 
wvracer821 said:
does the inner tires bead seal in there? I would guess it would be up against the inside of the beadlock lip on the outer side of the wheel but what about the inner side of the wheel?
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We’re doing it with single beadlock wheels. The back side of the wheel is the easy one to get the inner tire to bead up on because of the long ramp. The outer side has a bead built into it so you can run the wheel regularly without the beadlock. Because of the steep ramp it’s harder to get the bead to seat. We don’t do any duct tape or other silly stuff.

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You have to get the tire in the tire first. Then get both tires on the wheel. You have to bolt the beadlock ring on and fully seat the back bead on the outer tire. Then let the air out of the outer tire, take the beadlock ring off and fully seat the beads on the inner tire. Then let the air out of the inner tire and get the beadlock ring on all the way. Then air the inner tire up first with the valve core out of the outer tire that way you know if the inner tire isn’t seated and holding air. Then air up the outer tire last.
 
JR4X said:
We’re doing it with single beadlock wheels. The back side of the wheel is the easy one to get the inner tire to bead up on because of the long ramp. The outer side has a bead built into it so you can run the wheel regularly without the beadlock. Because of the steep ramp it’s harder to get the bead to seat. We don’t do any duct tape or other silly stuff.


You have to get the tire in the tire first. Then get both tires on the wheel. You have to bolt the beadlock ring on and fully seat the back bead on the outer tire. Then let the air out of the outer tire, take the beadlock ring off and fully seat the beads on the inner tire. Then let the air out of the inner tire and get the beadlock ring on all the way. Then air the inner tire up first with the valve core out of the outer tire that way you know if the inner tire isn’t seated and holding air. Then air up the outer tire last.
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Is there a specific tire that you use for the inner? Our 4400 has coyote liners but I imagine a real tire would be way more robust.
 
tribal4krawler said:
Is there a specific tire that you use for the inner? Our 4400 has coyote liners but I imagine a real tire would be way more robust.
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We’re using the BFG liners. We don’t have any kind of hookup for them, I just buy them wherever I can find them. I need more but will probably wait till fall to buy any.

Remember there’s a rule. Secondary inflation devices can’t be over 27 inches tall. The Maxxis liners are 27”. The BFG ones are 25”. I’ve tried to get Maxxis ones but no one can or will. Rockhold says he can but I can’t pin him down on them. So basically what you need is a 27x8x17
 
Thanks for the explanation. I knew people did it but I've never seen it in person.

so like a 205/60-17 car tire stuffed in there
 
wvracer821 said:
Thanks for the explanation. I knew people did it but I've never seen it in person.

so like a 205/60-17 car tire stuffed in there
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The ones we’re racing on are actually designed to be a run flat but basically yes. You have to be able to get air in between the inner tire and the outer tire. So you drill and tap a hole in the beadlock lip because that’s the only accessible place to do it. These inner tires have ribs molded into the sidewall to make a passage for air to work through a tight space. IIRC a 35 on a raceline with a liner weighs 125 pounds. A 37 same tire same liner weighs 127# and in case anyone is wondering, no you cannot feel that little guard making the tire out of balance at any speed. 80 mph ~ 100 mph. Can’t feel a thing.


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