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Shop build site advise/help

Fl-Krawler

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Member Number
3107
Messages
105
Loc
Cookeville, Tennessee
First the backstory (long read with details) Closed everything down in Florida and moved to middle Tennessee to reopen my business. We are currently doing an 80x120x24 building. Clearspan construction, plan to do a monolithic slab, and a portion of the building will eventually get a 2nd story living space. I currently have all my tin sheet metal, dimensional 8x8 timbers 24' long and I plan to fabricate my own trusses (that I have stamped engineered blueprints for). I have been trying since the beginning of Dec to get my site prepped and concrete poured. Excavation company came out and started leveling the pad mid February, told me he got it close enough for the concrete company to do the final prep work. A month later the concrete guy comes out and says we need to get the excavation guy back out. Concrete guy has a contract and wants 50% up front to be put on the schedule and to cover materials. Normally I wouldn't pay anything up front but 5 out of the 5 people we called about concrete all wanted the same thing. Company had a very good rating so we went forward with things. I should probably mention at this point we are on a very tight financial budget with this and doing everything out of pocket, trying to remain debt free.

Excavation guy was contacted and said he was real busy but would try to come by and have a look at what additional work the site needed. After 2 weeks of waiting I bought a transit and laser level to check the pad myself. from the front right corner of the pad, to the left rear corner, there was 43" of elevation change. When the excavation guy was hired, he was told to level off the ridge and that I preferred to not have any fill dirt be brought in (trying to save money). He hit rock on the left side of the pad (the low side) and said he didn't want to dig any further. When he was emailed with this info he wanted to bring in fill dirt to fix the issue (and charge me for it) as opposed to bringing the high side down to actually level the pad like I paid him to do. At that point he basically stopped responding to calls and emails about making things right.

Frustrated and again on a budget, I start using my tractor and box blade, as well as digging a pit on the property for good clean fill to bring the pad to level. During this time I am also trying to contact the concrete guy to see if he is partnered with anyone that can finish the pad prep. We are now at the beginning of April. Concrete guy initially tells me everything is a go, just waiting on a break in the weather. We get a solid 2 weeks of 60* temps and no rain, still no concrete guy. Call him and he says he is gonna be another 2 weeks atleast. Ok, so while waiting I continue to move dirt with my tractor. Two weeks go by and call again. Concrete guy tells me its still gonna be another 2 weeks and that he needs to come out and have us sign a new contract and pay more money, because the material costs had gone up, and he could no longer honor the contractual price we had (new price was almost $20k more which we didn't have). Concrete guy was told we were not signing a new contract because we didn't have the additional $20k and that if he wasn't going to do the work, to just refund our original deposit ($30k). At that point the concrete guy stops responding to attempts to contact him.

I have managed to bring the front right corner of the shop to within 5" of grade (measuring from dead center of where the building will be). Center portion of the pad fluctuates from 5-7", but the back left corner is still 22" low. Its time consuming as fawk to move dirt with my tractor (kioti dk4210se). My original plan was to get the pad on grade, then shape out the footers roughly with the tractor and use form boards all the way around the shop, along with a layer of 3/4" gravel on top to compact. My budget at this point is almost non-existent due to loosing have the concrete money (just obtained a lawyer to start the process of getting that back too). Mathmatically I have just enough available cash for concrete, rebar, and 100yrds of 3/4" gravel.

At this point I am basically fucked and need a knowledgeable solution. Bacon, suck starting a shotgun perhaps? Do I continue to move dirt with my tractor, bite the bullet and have fill brought in, or could I build my subgrade up with larger rock (I have a shit ton of flat boulders 6"-1ft thick and 2-3ft wide). It was also suggested to do my subgrade in the same rock my driveway is (1.5") and then do the layer of 3/4" gravel on top for compaction since the clay here doesn't compact for shit. I need to find a solution sooner rather than later as I have a shit ton of tools and equipment in storage or out in the weather.
 
Are you compacting the fill? You mention footers, but it sounds like you're doing them at grade level? I know Tennessee only has about a foot to frost line rather than the three to four feet up here, but are you doing footers or a floating slab?
 
So you paid the excavator to get it level and he did not?

You also paid the concrete guy 50% up front and now he won't refund the money?
Yes and yes
Are you compacting the fill? You mention footers, but it sounds like you're doing them at grade level? I know Tennessee only has about a foot to frost line rather than the three to four feet up here, but are you doing footers or a floating slab?
They go by 2018 IBC code here. My footers have to be 18" deep (frostline) and 18" wide IIRC. The plan was to put the base of the footer to my lowest point on the build site, since solid rock isn't much deeper than that. I'm doing a monolithic slab, so the footers and slab will all be done in 1 pour. I'm doing #5 rebar on 2ft centers and 6" thick 4000 psi concrete.

As far as compaction goes, I was going to rent a 12k lb pad foot roller to compact the soil, but it will be 2 months before the rental company can get one out to me. The plan was to use the pad foot for the fill i put on the pad, then use a vibratory compacter once i get my 3/4" gravel put down. I had planned to do a 6" thick layer of the 3/4" gravel on the pad as well as down into the footers

I was going to attempt to do the concrete pour myself as I have done some smaller slabs before, but an 80x120 is a little too large for me by myself or with the inexperienced help i would be able to get. I've gotten a few quotes between $3500-$5k for the finishers to come in and do just pour/finish work. My FIL suggested I use plywood for my forms as it would be a lot cheaper but the thought of one having issues against the weight of the concrete has me a little leary
 
What kind of building is this?

If you do a pole barn (and it sounds like you might be), you erect the poles into the ground on some buried caisons and build from there. The slab is done after the fact. At least that is my understanding. I have a 32x42 pole barn that doesn't have a pad. Just a dirt floor.
 
You're a business man. How much are you bringing in with no shop? How many days are you going to play around with 'no debt' and actually be further behind than borrowing some money to get this built?

If you only have enough for re-bar and gravel and mud, then you're missing electrical, plumbing, HVAC, man doors, garage doors, trim, insulation...

Seems like a clear case of takes money to make money.
 
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You're a business man. How much are you bringing in with no shop? How many days are you going to play around with 'no debt' and actually be further behind than borrowing some money to get this built?

If you only have enough for rear and gravel and mud, then you're missing electrical, plumbing, HVAC, man doors, garage doors, trim, insulation...

Seems like a clear case of takes money to make money.

$30k plus what ever the dirt guy sucked up, would make a pretty good dent in things
 
We need pictures of this area. I’m not a fan of digging down to build a building. Always leads to water problems down the line.

Once I get some pictures I’ll have a better idea what I would do if I was doing that.
 
What kind of building is this?

If you do a pole barn (and it sounds like you might be), you erect the poles into the ground on some buried caisons and build from there. The slab is done after the fact. At least that is my understanding. I have a 32x42 pole barn that doesn't have a pad. Just a dirt floor.

I'm doing drill set anchors for the poles, so if I have issues with a rotted pole down the road, its will be much easier to change if it isnt buried in the ground or set set in concrete
You're a business man. How much are you bringing in with no shop? How many days are you going to play around with 'no debt' and actually be further behind than borrowing some money to get this built?

If you only have enough for re-bar and gravel and mud, then you're missing electrical, plumbing, HVAC, man doors, garage doors, trim, insulation...

Seems like a clear case of takes money to make money.
Actually working daily now but the weather and moving welders and such around is a huge PITA. If you rode the debt roller coaster I have been for the last 4yrs, you would understand why we are choosing to remain debt free for as long as possible. I also dont have the capability to get a loan at the moment so there is that. No HVAC until we start our living space, which will be about 5yrs after the main building is done. We are currently full timing it in a very nice 5th wheel RV and plan to do so until then. plumbing, septic, doors, and electrical are already handled. I just need to get some concrete under my feet, and a dried in roof over my head. I could care less about insulation or any other fit and finish items right now
We need pictures of this area. I’m not a fan of digging down to build a building. Always leads to water problems down the line.

Once I get some pictures I’ll have a better idea what I would do if I was doing that.

Let me see if I can post pics or video from my phone. I posted some in the irate messenger group but I havent tried to actually post pics to here yet
 
These probably don't help much. I have a 6minute video I took but it's saying the file is too large to post
 

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We need pictures of this area. I’m not a fan of digging down to build a building. Always leads to water problems down the line.
The ridge the shop is going on was about 10ft higher than the surrounding area before we cut it down. The other 2 sides drop off between 400-500ft down the mountain to the valley below so I dont think I will have water issues
 
Why not just perimeter wall and throw the building up? Do the slab later, in sections as funds become available.

You're a business man. How much are you bringing in with no shop? How many days are you going to play around with 'no debt' and actually be further behind than borrowing some money to get this built?

If you only have enough for re-bar and gravel and mud, then you're missing electrical, plumbing, HVAC, man doors, garage doors, trim, insulation...

Seems like a clear case of takes money to make money.
How many people wound up broke at 40 because they thought like you?
 
Why not just perimeter wall and throw the building up? Do the slab later, in sections as funds become available.


How many people wound up broke at 40 because they thought like you?
If he does a perimeter wall he is gonna have to run full length rebar from one side to the other at each post location. This has to be done so it doesn’t spread when the wind is blowing 60 mph out.

This is a real deal building 24’ side walls are no joke. He is gonna have to build trusses that go into the end walls so that bitch don’t blow down.

In wi a building like this would have to get state approved plans because it’s a commercial building. Meaning it has to pass all the snow loads wind shear loads ect.

As to your site it’s gonna be a tough one if you’re not willing to spend money on the dirt work. It’s hard to tell in the picture what the ground is but it looks to me like a clay rocky loam mixture. Your cut and fill method is gonna be hard to get your filled in area to 98-100% compaction. Any type of rain on the loose ground before it gets compacted and you’re looking for trouble.

My dad would not take that job with that request know how hard it’s gonna be to get a good base for a massive building like that. The excavator wants to haul in a known good structural fill to bring the site up flat to get the compaction needed to hold your building up. Imo this is the right way to do it.

Now with that said you could probably make your existing cut and fill work if you get some bomags on it and get a nuke guy out there to verify it that it is compacted fully. With this method you’re gonna want to put down 8” of a 1 1/4 CABC to help firm up the ground under the slab.

I know this isn’t what you want to hear but if this is a forever building you will want it to last forever. Not settle and crack the concrete all to hell.

With dirtwork wood concrete tin this is gonna be a $150,000+ dollar building. You may have to scale back your plans and do a 60x80 half and do an expansion as funds allow.

Good luck man keep us in the loop.
 
That doesn't look very rocky to me.

But then again, I've done a ton of excavation in the Rocky Mountains, so maybe I'm jaded.
 
Kinda hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like you still have topsoil there? I'd strip all that off before putting a pad down.
The first day I started working on the pad (which I think is around when the pics were taken) there was a lot of topsoil under dirt the excavation guy had moved, I spent a good 3 days just digging that out and moving clean fill in its place.

Why not just perimeter wall and throw the building up? Do the slab later, in sections as funds become available.

Our original plan was just this, but the total cost of concrete per sq ft goes down substantially the larger you go. Most of the finishers we talked to wanted almost the same money to finish a 40x80 section, as they did 2/3 or the whole thing. Also saving large sums of money isn't one of my households best attributes, as the money always ends up getting used for things in an emergency. It will be easier for us to get the slab down (which is our largest single cost) and then do the smaller things as we get money to do so. The other issue is I spent a ton of time planning out the locations of my CNC equipment, material racks, etc, and doing partial concrete will create issues with that as far as where the equipment gets set, and the workflow of the shop. Its pretty expensive to move the equipment so I'm trying to limit it to a one and done as far as that goes (my cnc press brake weighs 20 tons for example)
 
If he does a perimeter wall he is gonna have to run full length rebar from one side to the other at each post location. This has to be done so it doesn’t spread when the wind is blowing 60 mph out.
This is a real deal building 24’ side walls are no joke. He is gonna have to build trusses that go into the end walls so that bitch don’t blow down.

Why? The roof structure should hold the top of the walls in place. The perimeter foundation stuck in the ground keeps the bottoms from moving.



Any type of rain on the loose ground before it gets compacted and you’re looking for trouble.
Sounds like a reason to build the building before the slab. :flipoff2:
 
This is a real deal building 24’ side walls are no joke. He is gonna have to build trusses that go into the end walls so that bitch don’t blow down.

In wi a building like this would have to get state approved plans because it’s a commercial building. Meaning it has to pass all the snow loads wind shear loads ect.

As to your site it’s gonna be a tough one if you’re not willing to spend money on the dirt work. It’s hard to tell in the picture what the ground is but it looks to me like a clay rocky loam mixture. Your cut and fill method is gonna be hard to get your filled in area to 98-100% compaction. Any type of rain on the loose ground before it gets compacted and you’re looking for trouble.

My dad would not take that job with that request know how hard it’s gonna be to get a good base for a massive building like that. The excavator wants to haul in a known good structural fill to bring the site up flat to get the compaction needed to hold your building up. Imo this is the right way to do it.

Now with that said you could probably make your existing cut and fill work if you get some bomags on it and get a nuke guy out there to verify it that it is compacted fully. With this method you’re gonna want to put down 8” of a 1 1/4 CABC to help firm up the ground under the slab.

I know this isn’t what you want to hear but if this is a forever building you will want it to last forever. Not settle and crack the concrete all to hell.

With dirtwork wood concrete tin this is gonna be a $150,000+ dollar building. You may have to scale back your plans and do a 60x80 half and do an expansion as funds allow.

Good luck man keep us in the loop.

We are doing true 8x8 poles on 10ft centers with a fabricated steel truss. My land is unrestricted ag land and for an enclosed pole barn you only need engineered prints for the trusses if they are clear span over 60ft. We are actually putting the building up as an "agricultural barn" and will then open a business out of the building after the fact. The county requires a professional contractor to build all commercial use buildings (but not required on buildings changed to commercial after they are already built) and the cost of that just isn't feasible (cheapest quote we got was north of $600k). Not counting the money we are into the no-show concrete guy or excavation, We are less than $40k into the building so far and I have everything but a 600 amp meter can/breaker box, and everything related to the concrete. We have gone to some pretty extreme lengths to save money on things (texas for the sheet metal, sawmill in florida for all the timbers etc). If my math is correct we will be into the slab and rebar about $35k, leaving us about $5k to play with to pay the finishers and any unforseen expenses. Our goal was to be under $100k to get concrete and the shell of the building up

*edit yes the soil is mostly clay with a lot of small 5-6" rock ranging up to boulders about 3ft
 
Why? The roof structure should hold the top of the walls in place. The perimeter foundation stuck in the ground keeps the bottoms from moving.
Leverage. The place where the poles attach to the slab or footer becomes the fulcrum. If wind is pushing against the roof it is putting a lot of leverage against a 18" x 18" footer 120ft long
 
Leverage. The place where the poles attach to the slab or footer becomes the fulcrum. If wind is pushing against the roof it is putting a lot of leverage against a 18" x 18" footer 120ft long
This if he’s not sinking poles into the ground he needs to have a a tension member between the bottoms of the posts. If not that sucker is gonna go down in a big gust of wind.

I get the op props as he is building a legit building. I do everything myself and even wouldn’t tackle this without having it engineered so the dang thing don’t blow over in a wind storm. I have 4 buildings this size and it’s kinda frightening being in them when the wind is blowing 50-60 out. My biggest is a red iron 90x120x24 and has center posts in it. It even moans when the wind is whipping.
 
Leverage. The place where the poles attach to the slab or footer becomes the fulcrum. If wind is pushing against the roof it is putting a lot of leverage against a 18" x 18" footer 120ft long
Right, but your roof should be resisting that force and transferring it to the side walls that are in the same plane as the wind.

Also I was thinking more like a 4-6ft perimeter wall. :laughing:
 
OP, what's the pitch on your engineered trusses?

This if he’s not sinking poles into the ground he needs to have a a tension member between the bottoms of the posts. If not that sucker is gonna go down in a big gust of wind.
Connecting the bottom of all the poles doesn't help you if the whole thing is free to turn into a diamond and fold over. The truss triangles and rafters have you covered in one direction but you need something om the other direction keeping the building from falling over when the wind hits the gable end.

It's probably going to be cheaper to handle that force with bracing up at the ceiling/rafter level than it is to build beefy poles on beefy footings that can just take it.

Edit: all the steel building and pole barn shit really makes me appreciate the structural benefits of having a real fucking wall. :laughing:


Edit2: OP should just go find a bigger building that's built the way he wants his and measure their framing and spacing. Easier to copy shit you know works than to run numbers.
 
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This if he’s not sinking poles into the ground he needs to have a a tension member between the bottoms of the posts. If not that sucker is gonna go down in a big gust of wind.

I get the op props as he is building a legit building. I do everything myself and even wouldn’t tackle this without having it engineered so the dang thing don’t blow over in a wind storm. I have 4 buildings this size and it’s kinda frightening being in them when the wind is blowing 50-60 out. My biggest is a red iron 90x120x24 and has center posts in it. It even moans when the wind is whipping.

OP, what's the pitch on your engineered trusses?


Connecting the bottom of all the poles doesn't help you if the whole thing is free to turn into a diamond and fold over. The truss triangles and rafters have you covered in one direction but you need something om the other direction keeping the building from falling over when the wind hits the gable end.

It's probably going to be cheaper to handle that force with bracing up at the ceiling/rafter level than it is to build beefy poles on beefy footings that can just take it.

Edit: all the steel building and pole barn shit really makes me appreciate the structural benefits of having a real fucking wall. :laughing:


Edit2: OP should just go find a bigger building that's built the way he wants his and measure their framing and spacing. Easier to copy shit you know works than to run numbers.

The roof pitch is 4:12. We plan to do a lot of bracing, both in the roof, from the poles to the trusses, and on the walls. I will be using a combination of wood bracing and tension wires.
 
Not an engineer. Not a dirt guy.

But our neighbors built on fill… and it’s caused a lot of issues.

They were told by the county a few years ago, after losing a ~10’ tall retaining wall months after it went in, that the only way they’d get new permits would be to pull all the fill and replace it with “engineered fill.” No idea what that is, but consider it before you dump $100’s of thousands into a building because you’re trying to same some money upfront.
 
speaking of fill dirt...

My 32x42 pole barn was built a year prior to me buying this property (the po built it for an ATV rental business that the county shut down). Anyways, he cheaped out on the excavation and didn't backfill the low side. There was probably 3' of the poles exposed below grade. Well I buy the property and took my dozer/backhoe and properly backfilled the low side and made it so you can pull a trailer around the shop.

The building inspector and I were talking one day and I mentioned that I may want to build an addition to the pole barn and I asked how long it takes for all that fill to be considered 'undisturbed' (meaning you can build on it).

4 years is what he said.
 
I 100% wanna do it right and I know this is one of if not the most crucial part of my build for the longevity/quality of my slab. Slab prep where I'm from in Florida is drastically different than here due to the different soil types so I want to make sure I'm doing it right, but also not getting taken by a person looking to line their pockets by a new out of towner.

Just to update since it looks like bringing in fill at this point will be my best option Ive called around this morning to a few places. Looks like clean fill of red clay is gonna run me $225 per load (22 tons). It will be 2 weeks before the dirt can be delivered. Im gonna order 10 loads and stockpile it in the center of my pad and schedule my pad foot compactor for 4th of july weekend. That will allow me to compact most of the current ground, and build it up in layers 6" at a time and compacting every layer. Renting on a Friday will give me use of the machine all weekend and as long as I have it back Monday morning I only have to pay for 1 day of rental.. Once I'm done with that, I'll do a 6" layer of "crusher grade" rock, compact it, and I should then be ready for form boards and rebar
 
Had to look up where cookeville was. I'm betting your fighting with all the work being done in Nashville. Your a single job and a ways out so you will always be the job put off. Around here I can call and get a load of gravel or dirt tomorrow.

You need to be going after the dirt work guy for not performing and get your money back from the concrete guy. Your time with these types will run out before they are gone to the wind. If you are going to play your own GC you have to play hardball.
 
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