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Savage Model 10 Accuracy Issues

Jakey_Recline

Jakey_Recline

Gay for Toyotas
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
388
Messages
101
Loc
Memphis
I've got a Model 10 FCP-SR, the first 10 shots (cold bore) will blow the black out at 100yds, the next 10 are all over the paper.
Is this a barrel heat issue?
I'm shooting a homemade M118, 43grs and 175 SMK HPBT for reference
 
How constant has the "first 10/next 10" part of it been? Have you replicated this issue multiple times, or is this the first 20 rounds through the gun?

I would start by making sure your scope base and rings are tight and where they should be. What base and rings are you using?

What stock is on the gun? I had a buddy that had a cheap Savage and the stock was really flexy. The weight of the gun would cause the stock to touch the barrel. If you loaded the bi-pod the stock would flex away and free float the barrel. This caused a bunch of POA/POI and groups size issues.
 
That’s the non-accustock version, right? .308 winchester?
How much time per string of 10? How much time between strings?
 
It has the Accustock and .308
7-10 minutes
Honestly I don't know I refill a mag and bullshit a bit then go back to it. Less than 10?
 
Is the 2nd string just poi shift or does the group open up as well? If it’s opening up, can you compare the two groups?
 
talk to me about the muzzle break/FH or if there is one?

then tell us what brand scope and rings you are currently using.
 
Steve300xcw said:
Bipod?
Click to expand...
No. I've used a sled, bags, and bone supported prone.
pdangerp said:
Is the 2nd string just poi shift or does the group open up as well? If it’s opening up, can you compare the two groups?
Click to expand...
POI shift
Texas97 said:
talk to me about the muzzle break/FH or if there is one?

then tell us what brand scope and rings you are currently using.
Click to expand...
Muzzle break attached below. Scope is a Vortex Daimondback 6-24x50
 

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Jakey_Recline said:
No. I've used a sled, bags, and bone supported prone.

POI shift

Muzzle break attached below. Scope is a Vortex Daimondback 6-24x50
Click to expand...

You should try a different scope. POI shift with same group doesn't sound like barrel heat, or barrel pressure issues.

It sounds like scope to me. Diamondback is not known for quality, and that scope is made in China
 
The first 10 shooting well, is what confuses me.

Normally if it's a scope that you know is good. Then the normal check for tight on bases,rings, action screws. Are they to long? Mag box binding up? Then bedding and a free float the barrel. If it still doesn't shoot, sell the POS
 
Texas97 said:
You should try a different scope. POI shift with same group doesn't sound like barrel heat, or barrel pressure issues.

It sounds like scope to me. Diamondback is not known for quality, and that scope is made in China
Click to expand...
Ehhhhh its what I had lying around.
Steve300xcw said:
The first 10 shooting well, is what confuses me.

Normally if it's a scope that you know is good. Then the normal check for tight on bases,rings, action screws. Are they to long? Mag box binding up? Then bedding and a free float the barrel. If it still doesn't shoot, sell the POS
Click to expand...
I'm going to try to get to the range Sunday, I'll take a pic or two of the target. that will probably help diagnosis.
 
Would be worth just double checking every single screw on that gun before you go
 
I got no dog in this fight but I have had enough experience with garbage optics to know that I would try a different KNOWN GOOD scope if for no other reason than to eliminate a variable. I, too, have plenty of optics that are just lying around for one reason or another (those that I have deemed unreliable and the size of the pile is in reverse proportion to the cost of each of one of the optics in it :laughing::homer:).

Eliminate a variable at a time...
 
If it’s moving between groups, are you sure your cheek weld is consistent? Does the gun fit you right? I wonder if you’ve got some parallax issues between mounting the gun multiple times.
 
Screws are tight and torqued with loctite. Quality of the Vortex being what it is, if its good enough to hold >1" repeatedly why would it be the problem? On cold bore the groups are exactly where I want them.
 
Where those 2 dick breaths argueing about barrle break in and heat cycles.

There was a pretty long talk about it in a recent thread but i cant remember which one atm.
 
total newb said:
Where those 2 dick breaths argueing about barrle break in and heat cycles.

There was a pretty long talk about it in a recent thread but i cant remember which one atm.
Click to expand...
The one about a pistol, of course.
 
Jakey_Recline said:
Screws are tight and torqued with loctite. Quality of the Vortex being what it is, if its good enough to hold >1" repeatedly why would it be the problem? On cold bore the groups are exactly where I want them.
Click to expand...
Is the stock touching any part of the barrel?

Have you checked the action screws?
 
Jakey_Recline said:
Screws are tight and torqued with loctite. Quality of the Vortex being what it is, if its good enough to hold >1" repeatedly why would it be the problem? On cold bore the groups are exactly where I want them.
Click to expand...
I've had PLENTY of situations in my time where I was SURE that something that wasn't the problem WAS the problem. Right now it sounds/looks like you're still looking for the culprit without taking any real empirical steps to resolve the issue. It is your rifle, but a journey of a 1000 miles begins with the first step. You can keep asking a bunch of people (some even knowledgeable) that can't even touch the gun or....

It may not be the optic but, as it stands, NO ONE knows...
 
This will draw much hate and ire BUT....Scopes don't normally work for 10 shots and then shit the bed for 10 shots. If they are hosed, every shot would be fliers. If you are shooting rapidly and heating the barrel, the shots should walk off in one direction, not fly all over the place. My rifles seem to consistently climb in an orderly pattern and up and to the right.(no idea why this is although I am sure there is some scientific reason) You could do a lot worse than a Vortex no matter where it is made. Your muzzle brake isn't going to change POI between shots period much less the first 10 shots and the next 10 shots period.

My guess,
1) depending on what type of stock you have, you could be losing free float on the barrel, or you may have no free float and rotating into a free floating barrel. Cheap hollow Tupperware stocks are unpredictable pieces of shit. Savage made a 17WSM BX or some shit that had a honey combed, hollowed out piece of shit stock that came from the factory touching the gun in all the wrong places. Thing would not shoot for shit until I put a Boyds laminate wood stock it. Problem solved. Look at it this way, if you have a cheap plastic black stock with a proven free floated barrel and then you go out into the sun which is heating the stock up, then you heat the barrel up by firing it and further heat the barrel up, that cheap plastic is going to warp and start touching the gun in all the wrong places.

2) Check your action screws. They don't have to be God awful tight and not loose. Just snugged up with a mans hand. Bedding your action will work wonders on rifles that like to throw bullets in a random pattern. When tightening them try to find a sweet spot where the screws are tight where there is no play between the action and stock but you can still slide a dollar bill between the entire length on the barrel and stock.

2) No idea what kind of ammo you are using but if you got some of the cheap shit on the market, and there is plenty of it out there, you may want to try something the self proclaimed experts on here are strictly against, clean the barrel. You didn't say if this was a new gun or not but you might be fouling out the barrel with the first 10 shots and the next 10 are flying all over because of a dirty barrel. Roc Doc and Texas97 will tell you cleaning the barrel is fools play, but damn, they shoot so much better through a clean barrel that isn't lead, copper and powder fouled all to hell.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
DICKWEED said:
This will draw much hate and ire BUT....Scopes don't normally work for 10 shots and then shit the bed for 10 shots. If they are hosed, every shot would be fliers. If you are shooting rapidly and heating the barrel, the shots should walk off in one direction, not fly all over the place. My rifles seem to consistently climb in an orderly pattern and up and to the right.(no idea why this is although I am sure there is some scientific reason) You could do a lot worse than a Vortex no matter where it is made. Your muzzle brake isn't going to change POI between shots period much less the first 10 shots and the next 10 shots period.

My guess,
1) depending on what type of stock you have, you could be losing free float on the barrel, or you may have no free float and rotating into a free floating barrel. Cheap hollow Tupperware stocks are unpredictable pieces of shit. Savage made a 17WSM BX or some shit that had a honey combed, hollowed out piece of shit stock that came from the factory touching the gun in all the wrong places. Thing would not shoot for shit until I put a Boyds laminate wood stock it. Problem solved. Look at it this way, if you have a cheap plastic black stock with a proven free floated barrel and then you go out into the sun which is heating the stock up, then you heat the barrel up by firing it and further heat the barrel up, that cheap plastic is going to warp and start touching the gun in all the wrong places.

2) Check your action screws. They don't have to be God awful tight and not loose. Just snugged up with a mans hand. Bedding your action will work wonders on rifles that like to throw bullets in a random pattern. When tightening them try to find a sweet spot where the screws are tight where there is no play between the action and stock but you can still slide a dollar bill between the entire length on the barrel and stock.

2) No idea what kind of ammo you are using but if you got some of the cheap shit on the market, and there is plenty of it out there, you may want to try something the self proclaimed experts on here are strictly against, clean the barrel. You didn't say if this was a new gun or not but you might be fouling out the barrel with the first 10 shots and the next 10 are flying all over because of a dirty barrel. Roc Doc and Texas97 will tell you cleaning the barrel is fools play, but damn, they shoot so much better through a clean barrel that isn't lead, copper and powder fouled all to hell.
Click to expand...
Its an Accustock
Action screws are at 32 in/lbs
175 SMK HPBT with 43grns of 4064


Roc Doc said:
Could be the rifle or ammo, (likely) or could be the scope. Have you run a box test to see if the scope tracks?
Click to expand...
Learn me on this Box Test
 
Jakey_Recline said:
Its an Accustock
Action screws are at 32 in/lbs
175 SMK HPBT with 43grns of 4064



Learn me on this Box Test
Click to expand...
Box test is for the scope. Dial up 4 moa, shoot a group. Dial windage left 4 moa, shoot a group. Dial back down the same 4 moa, shoot a group. Then 4 moa right on windage should be back to the bullseye, shoot a group.

There's several variations but you get the idea. You're dialing your scope, and keeping the same point of aim to see how it actually tracks.
 
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