Sap on wood beams? Cleaning/painting?

[dnsfailure]

My carport upright beams (almost 1 year old) have sap that has slowly sweated out of them. Not a ton, but enough to be annoying and sticky. I've left them alone for almost a year now, and from what I can tell they are no longer actively oozing sap, so now I'd like to get rid of the sap and seal or paint the wood with something to keep them protected.

I don't know exactly what type of wood it is, a softwood for sure, probably whatever is common in construction, they are 6x6. They are not pressure treated, but they did have some sort of thin water sealer applied to them when they were put up.

My plan was to scrap off as much of the existing sap as possible. Then I guess I should wash the wood with something? (turpentine?) And then apply a sealer of sorts? If possible, I'd love to keep the natural wood look with something transparent or semi-transparent, rather than using opaque paint.


Any suggestions?

 

[4x4orbust]

I build timber frames for a living, we use watco danish oil on our timbers. To clean the sap, denatured alcohol will remove whatever is on the surface.

 

[dnsfailure]

I build timber frames for a living, we use watco danish oil on our timbers. To clean the sap, denatured alcohol will remove whatever is on the surface.

for exterior wood, is this something you would apply yearly? These upright beams are on a carport, so they are fairly exposed. I've got denatured alcohol.

 

[Clb]

Scrape when cold...
love the watco oils

 

[dnsfailure]

Would this be the stuff for exterior? Doesn't say what type of oil it is.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...or-wood-finish

 

[4x4orbust]

Yes that is the stuff for the exterior. We typically use the interior stuff everywhere, but I can’t say how well it holds up over time. The oil does have to be reapplied every few years but it does seal the wood very well. It does not dry on the surface like a poly or paint, it soaks into the wood and seals it

 

[dnsfailure]

Yes that is the stuff for the exterior. We typically use the interior stuff everywhere, but I can’t say how well it holds up over time. The oil does have to be reapplied every few years but it does seal the wood very well. It does not dry on the surface like a poly or paint, it soaks into the wood and seals it

Thanks :-) I'll pick some of that up.

 

[FC4X4]

Denatured alcohol as previously suggested and a scraper/rag, or even a scotch-brite pad if you're going to be refinishing.

 

[FleshEater]

If you want to paint it, I would use Zinsser 123 and then top it with Behr exterior paint. Should hold up a long time.

 

[dnsfailure]

If you want to paint it, I would use Zinsser 123 and then top it with Behr exterior paint. Should hold up a long time.

To be honest, I'd rather keep a more natural wood look, I know it would need re-coating every so often though.

 

[Betarocker]

The pitch can ooze for many years before it finally leaks out completely. Very common in D-fir unless the pitch gets set in a high heat kiln.

 

[Weasel]

my trailer deck has been ozing for 3ish years, scrap it off and then use goo-gone to clean up.

 

[dnsfailure]

my trailer deck has been ozing for 3ish years, scrap it off and then use goo-gone to clean up.

Thanks! I haven't yet moved on this, wow 3 years and it's still oozing!? I hope mine doesn't do that

 

[Weasel]

Thanks! I haven't yet moved on this, wow 3 years and it's still oozing!? I hope mine doesn't do that

I may have caused it to last longer as I didn't let it sit but coated it with Australian Timber oil. Not idea if that made it worse or not but yeah just a couple boards still bleed a bit.