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Safety Chain Attachment

kf4zht

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
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So whats the best way to attach safety chains. I know they claim welding a link on is a no go

These weld on things?
1658521927344.png


Bolt Through?
1658521979127.png


Weld on cold shut and hammer closed?
1658522057372.png


Redoing my trailer tongue and want to do it right. Something servicable is best but the trailer isnt that heavy (<2000lbs) so I was going with 5/16 chain for a 2x safety margin
 
arse_sidewards said:
A pair of tabs, a snowblower shear pin and double check your coupling. If shit goes that far south you don't wanna be connected to the trailer. :stirthepot:
Click to expand...
It also helps to leave the electrical connector a little loose so when the trailer decides to go do it's own thing, it's less likely to mess up the truck side wiring and connector.


OP, who says you can't weld the safety chain on? Is that actual code someplace, or just something you've heard? just curious
 
Derp said:
It also helps to leave the electrical connector a little loose so when the trailer decides to go do it's own thing, it's less likely to mess up the truck side wiring and connector.


OP, who says you can't weld the safety chain on? Is that actual code someplace, or just something you've heard? just curious
Click to expand...
Seen it several places, this being one of the more official https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ChAWegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw1xmp4JMiCDgQGJsCZJR7Xf

It's not state law, shoot not sure if working lights are actually required or if it's just the thought that counts
 
bolt seems real easy.

mines got U bolts holding the safety chain, working like a clamp.

easy, adjustable, replaceable.
 
Wheelerfreak said:
Is it though? I've got bolted on and welded on safety chains on various trailers. I've never had a trailer come off the ball to really say if they are working like a champ or not though:flipoff2:
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Clamp, not a champ. Clamp around the chain rather than through a loop like a bolt :laughing:
 
Here's how it was done on mine...piece of round rod formed with a bump to go through the chain, then welded on at the coupler attachment joint.

PXL_20220724_001214209.jpg
 
kf4zht said:
I'm liking these. They aren't too expensive, look solid but still serviceable
Click to expand...
they're even cheaper if you buy some grab hooks to weld to your equipment buckets and save the clevis ends off of them before welding them on

that said, I save the link halves left over from cutting chains shorter, use those half-links to weld on to the trailer
one size bigger than the chain you're using if you wanna be extra fancy
 
kf4zht said:
They acutally sell those prebent, found them after I made the thread Weld-on Safety Chain Clip 7/16" x 4"

That's a clean install with it butted up to the channel. Wouldnt fit as well on my dinky trailer
Click to expand...
I've seen those on trailers similar to the size yours is, usually they run them horizontally on the tongue behind the coupler.
Personally, for a 2000 lb trailer I would either go with the weld on forged ones or the biggest grade 8 bolt that will fit through the chain links run all the way through the tongue.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
I've seen those on trailers similar to the size yours is, usually they run them horizontally on the tongue behind the coupler.
Personally, for a 2000 lb trailer I would either go with the weld on forged ones or the biggest grade 8 bolt that will fit through the chain links run all the way through the tongue.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
Might do that. Mine is going to be a little more complicated - its this trailer I built a couple years ago

1658751429703.png


Plan is to cut the tounge off about 3-4" from the sheet metal and replace with one of these - Class III 12 in. x 2 in. Standard Receiver Tube

It should end just under the edge of the frontgate when dropped down. The tongue is then a removable section. Fixes a couple things, one is banging my shins on it when in camp, plus the current tongue is too short most of the time. Great on tight trails but the rest of the time its a twitchy SOB.

So I'm thinking I need double chains for safety. One set I can just use like I have now - bolt through. The other around the A-frame section in case the pin holding the tongue somehow failed. Those can be pretty tight as there is no turning there. The prebent sections with some screw links might be just the ticket
 
Nice setup.

In your case I would look at doing two long chains, put a pair of the forged ones in the back and then have the chains go from there, then put a grade 8 bolt through the beginning of your removable tongue and through the chain on each side and then either another bolt or a pair of the forged ones at the coupler, that way you have a continuous safety chain from the vehicle all the way back to the trailer, with the forged ones on the trailer once you hook it up you can make them tight enough that even if the pin comes out the hitch cannot pull forward enough because there is enough slack in the chains.
Something like this:
1658754867364.png

Yellow is the new receiver section
Red is forged (either set, shouldn't need both, replace the cotter pin with a hairpin clip)
Blue is a grade 8 bolt
Purple would be either a bolt or another pair of weld on forged pieces
Green is the chain
If you are worried about chain noise or chafing on the paint, I would slide the part that runs along the tongue through a piece of hose or adhesive lined heat shrink.

Another option would be using cable, put a pair of the weld on retainer clips at the blue and purple locations and use a cable clamp to attach a 5/16" or 3/8" stainless cable to them (like this):

1658756297838.png


Then swage or clamp an eye into each end at the right lengths to connect to your vehicle and to one of the sets of weld on forged attachment points (red).


Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Nice setup.

In your case I would look at doing two long chains, put a pair of the forged ones in the back and then have the chains go from there, then put a grade 8 bolt through the beginning of your removable tongue and through the chain on each side and then either another bolt or a pair of the forged ones at the coupler, that way you have a continuous safety chain from the vehicle all the way back to the trailer, with the forged ones on the trailer once you hook it up you can make them tight enough that even if the pin comes out the hitch cannot pull forward enough because there is enough slack in the chains.
Something like this:
1658754867364.png

Yellow is the new receiver section
Red is forged (either set, shouldn't need both, replace the cotter pin with a hairpin clip)
Blue is a grade 8 bolt
Purple would be either a bolt or another pair of weld on forged pieces
Green is the chain
If you are worried about chain noise or chafing on the paint, I would slide the part that runs along the tongue through a piece of hose or adhesive lined heat shrink.

Another option would be using cable, put a pair of the weld on retainer clips at the blue and purple locations and use a cable clamp to attach a 5/16" or 3/8" stainless cable to them (like this):

1658756297838.png


Then swage or clamp an eye into each end at the right lengths to connect to your vehicle and to one of the sets of weld on forged attachment points (red).


Aaron Z
Click to expand...
There must be a more complicated solution than you suggested, please give it another try. I can't believe safety chains generate so much thought :lmao:
 
ChiScouter said:
There must be a more complicated solution than you suggested, please give it another try. I can't believe safety chains generate so much thought :lmao:
Click to expand...
Especially on a 2,000lb trailer!
 
At a rental company I used to work for after a welded link failed and killed proverbial nuns (really)
They had a solution engineered to implement across the "Nations Rent" fleet.

cut a oval slot in the tongue frame web big enough to fit the chain link through it.
weld a 2" section of cold roll bar 3/8"-1/2" depending on chain link size effectively creating your own shear "hook" that doesn't rely on welds nor does it effect the metallurgy of the chain.
 
If you're in the DIY mood, weld on some 1/4" or 3/8" plate hanging below the tongue and drill a hole for a threaded chain connector link to engage. Basically a thick shock tab.
 
CarterKraft said:
At a rental company I used to work for after a welded link failed and killed proverbial nuns (really)
They had a solution engineered to implement across the "Nations Rent" fleet.

cut a oval slot in the tongue frame web big enough to fit the chain link through it.
weld a 2" section of cold roll bar 3/8"-1/2" depending on chain link size effectively creating your own shear "hook" that doesn't rely on welds nor does it effect the metallurgy of the chain.
Click to expand...
that's how one of mine is, they torched a "plus" shape in the web and ran the (single piece) of safety chain through both, then welded rod stock through on both sides
 
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