DRTDEVL
Mothfukle
Here's a shift of gears. I have a 1980 Winnebago with an LA 360. As part of my upgrades, I want to be able to power the rooftop air off the alternator, so I will no longer have to run the generator (on a tray on the bumper) while driving down the road. I have already installed a 3000w inverter in the past, and it will run the A/C for a short period before the voltage drops too much at the coach batteries. Mathematics tell me that, after initial starting load, the rooftop unit will draw between 120 and 125 amps through the inverter circuit. The RV originally came with a 74 amp alternator, but immediate need during a failure event found a 60 amp replacement installed (the only one I could get immediately) about 5 years ago.
Summit Racing has a 165 amp alternator that will fit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...ge/model/cb300 Being an older coach, I don't think it uses much more than 15 amps overall outside the inverter usage, so 165 should be more than enough.
Here's where the tech gets muddy:
The 8 awg charge wire runs to the chassis battery. Another 4 awg cable runs from there to a solenoid and on to the coach batteries.
The dash has an ammeter instead of a voltmeter. The voltmeter is separated from the rest of the gauges in its own panel with a double-throw momentary switch to check the chassis and coach voltages separately.
If my math is correct and this works, how should I wire it up?
I would just put a 4 awg charge cable from the alternator to the battery, but my thoughts then turn to the ammeter. When I crank on the roof unit, will this let the magic smoke out of the gauge or cluster? Potential fire hazard?
Another thought is to run a separate 2 awg cable from the alternator to a second Cole Hersee solenoid (with its own switch) straight to the coach battery pack.
And a final concern would be the voltage regulator. Its external, and stock. Should I upgrade to something like this? https://store.alternatorparts.com/QS8313F-finned-external-regulator.aspx
As for why not just keep using the generator? Two reasons. One, its loud. Getting a Honda EU-2000 would cost many times more than this upgrade. Two, the generator tray and bumper assembly stick out a bit off the rear. If I can relieve myself of needing the tray, I can modify the spare rack and bumper which will then allow me to tuck the hitch receiver closer to the body, lessening the leverage tongue weight has on the short coach's wheelbase. Its only 20 feet long, after all.
Summit Racing has a 165 amp alternator that will fit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...ge/model/cb300 Being an older coach, I don't think it uses much more than 15 amps overall outside the inverter usage, so 165 should be more than enough.
Here's where the tech gets muddy:
The 8 awg charge wire runs to the chassis battery. Another 4 awg cable runs from there to a solenoid and on to the coach batteries.
The dash has an ammeter instead of a voltmeter. The voltmeter is separated from the rest of the gauges in its own panel with a double-throw momentary switch to check the chassis and coach voltages separately.
If my math is correct and this works, how should I wire it up?
I would just put a 4 awg charge cable from the alternator to the battery, but my thoughts then turn to the ammeter. When I crank on the roof unit, will this let the magic smoke out of the gauge or cluster? Potential fire hazard?
Another thought is to run a separate 2 awg cable from the alternator to a second Cole Hersee solenoid (with its own switch) straight to the coach battery pack.
And a final concern would be the voltage regulator. Its external, and stock. Should I upgrade to something like this? https://store.alternatorparts.com/QS8313F-finned-external-regulator.aspx
As for why not just keep using the generator? Two reasons. One, its loud. Getting a Honda EU-2000 would cost many times more than this upgrade. Two, the generator tray and bumper assembly stick out a bit off the rear. If I can relieve myself of needing the tray, I can modify the spare rack and bumper which will then allow me to tuck the hitch receiver closer to the body, lessening the leverage tongue weight has on the short coach's wheelbase. Its only 20 feet long, after all.