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Running a T from black iron gas pipe

fordguy

blah.
Joined
Nov 24, 2022
Member Number
5787
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285
I want to convert my electric cookstop to gas. NO gas line going to kitchen. But they are in the attic with fairly easy access.

Just got quoted 1400 to run it. 10-11 foot straight from a T (need to cut and thread the main pipe), 90 deg turn right, one foot straight, then down 5 feet inti the kitchen wall. I will be the one cutting the drywall.

Seems $$$ to me, but probably the suburb white area I live in. This seems much easier than changing a main meter panel.

Price see. reasonable? I am leaning towards DIY. Cutting and threading pipe doesnt seem like rocket science, the rest is yellow teflon and some cuts. How do I purge all the gas from the lines when working on it? Will cracking one open do it, or leave risidual in?

Help me not blow up. :homer:
 
What size is the main line? Have to cut to add in the T, short nipple and union to put it back together, run to new location, then out the wall and valve. Most likely a cut and thread for the horizontal and vertical to make the length correct. How close is the nearest valve between the cut and the main shutoff to the house? In no valve, then turning off the main, letting the other gas appliance burn off the gas, then opening the system to evacuate the rest before cutting into old to add the new. Not a ton of work, but quiet a few hours in and out of the attic to get it completed.
 
Do it.
Do you have friends with pipe cutters and dies?

After you get it plumbed to the cook stove turn a burner on and hold a lighter to the burner until the blue flame is there, easy purge.

If you struggle bring the questions here.
 
My neighbor was quoted $3000 for 3 sticks. Yes DIY. Turn gas off to house and run any other gas appliances until they go out. It’s just .5 PSI for LPG.

EZ purge to relight is always the gas dryer. It will keep trying to light and vents to the atmosphere. To purge the stove just use a BBQ lighter on each burner until it fires. Run the burners for a while and stand there. They will burp air several times and go out.
 
Any couplings or elbows in the run that you can use to your benefit to turn into a tee? That may work out to your advantage even if it means a few more feet in your new run

I’ve DIY’d it twice at home. But I screw around with up to 4” nat gas lines at work. Process is the same though. Do the work, turn it on, and get up there with a spray bottle of soapy water for leak check.

Don’t forget to re light the water heater pilot
 
gas pipes are easy, unless you're a retard. I just finished running 5 sticks of 1/2 inch and 1 stick of 3/4 at a friend's place to feed bbq and shop fireplace. Total cost was about $300 for the pipes and a bit more for the fittings.

Don't use hex bushing reducers, must use bell reducers.

Some places don't allow unions, must use lefty/righty couplers.

Need a sediment drop near the appliance to catch any junk that's in the lines.

Don't need to tighten crazy tight, the pressure is very low, and if it's leaking you'll know by the stink.

If there's no fitting close to where you want to tee, you'll have to cut the pipe in place. Shut gas off first, use a wheel cutter so no sparks. Then you can spin out the pipes or thread one in place then use a union to reattach.

Pics of the pipes layout?
 
I added 20'~ to my dad's and pressure tested it with propane at like 50 psi.
 
20211018_090500 (1).jpg

I added a regulator to this.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Some places don't allow unions, must use lefty/righty couplers.

Pics of the pipes layout?
Click to expand...
Unless he takes the whole world apart, I don’t see a way to do it without a union if he’s cutting in a tee

Any existing gas appliances on or behind the stove wall? That’s the more drywall but easier plumbing option if available
 
I did the same thing a couple years ago Op. installed a T and ran 1/2” to stove. I bought a manual threader on Amazon and some leak tester (basically liquid soap)

 
mjlogan88 said:
Unless he takes the whole world apart, I don’t see a way to do it without a union if he’s cutting in a tee

Any existing gas appliances on or behind the stove wall? That’s the more drywall but easier plumbing option if available
Click to expand...
they got a special coupler and union set that has left hand thread on one end of the set
it's fucking wierd and dumb
 
fordguy said:
Thats insanity. I get inflation, but is everyone trying to become a millionare these days?
Click to expand...
Well yes, yes I am. That is the goal, have millions and retire before I am broken.

I get the dyi shit, but I don’t think that you are a………

Chop into it kid.
 
[486] said:
they got a special coupler and union set that has left hand thread on one end of the set
it's fucking wierd and dumb
Click to expand...
I think it's neat and cool, but I don't think it's a canadian thing, at least not around here.

I especially like how it baffles people, and/or makes them argue.

If you look close at the threads you can make out how one is left and one is right.

Untitled222.jpg
 
fordguy said:
Thats insanity. I get inflation, but is everyone trying to become a millionare these days?
Click to expand...
No its the cost of insurance, permits (if needed)
And cover my ass fees.

I dont want to lose my house and buisness over 1 fucking stick of pipe so i have to have enough coverage if shit goes wrong.


Op, add your tee + union so you dont have to roll either end of the existing pipe.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
If you look close at the threads you can make out how one is left and one is right.
Click to expand...
But when it is in the bag at home depot and you are in a hurry and grab the one that says ½" and coupling it is annoying as fuck when you get back to the jobsite and it won't work:homer: So you just use the ridgid coupling and a-lot of tape and dope to seal it:shaking:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Ditto for bends and galv. Varies by location.
Click to expand...
We had a hard time finding elbows in town, and we needed a lot of them. I used some galvanized (internet said it's fine with NG) and even had to use a couple stainless, which funny were cheaper than the black ones I think.

I made sure to use the stainless ones where there was little stress on the pipes though.
 
arse_sidewards said:
It is. Some places don't allow it because some zinc flaked off and caused a problem one time 100yr ago.
Click to expand...
same reason you're not supposed to use tape, little flakes of tape can catch in valves and make them leak just enough to make a short flame come out the side of a horizontal burner
or it don't light at all and buids up in the house...
 
M92PV4U said:
So you just use the ridgid coupling and a-lot of tape and dope to seal it:shaking:
Click to expand...
had people not believe me when I told them rigid conduit has straight threads on it, no taper

got a whole damn 5 gallon bucket full of rigid unions that are basically useless, they don't tighten up on a tapered thread since they're tapped big straight through
 
[486] said:
same reason you're not supposed to use tape, little flakes of tape can catch in valves and make them leak just enough to make a short flame come out the side of a horizontal burner
or it don't light at all and buids up in the house...
Click to expand...
Because people don't know how to install tape, skip the first three threads.
 
[486] said:
same reason you're not supposed to use tape, little flakes of tape can catch in valves and make them leak just enough to make a short flame come out the side of a horizontal burner
or it don't light at all and buids up in the house...
Click to expand...
Yet every plumber carries gas rated tape. :laughing:

It's not an issue in practice IMO. The drip legs catch that shit. Especially the big ones like tape.
 
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