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Rugger's S2 7.3 Sailboat Build

Got some parts printed. I'll be doing some ablative painting tomorrow and hopefully I'll get the spinnaker pole mounted tomorrow as well.
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I've been busy racing and fine tuning Mink. Six races in and I have four 2nd place finishes.
My windows are all checked from age, so I used that ghetto spray to tint them. I also connected the lines between windows with paint. I like the look.
Still sewing and making new stuff. These will help my kidneys and back.
Oh, and put new numbers on the sail to match my boat serial, 22. The residue from old numbers was a bitch, but acetone made pretty quick work of it.
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rugger said:
I've been busy racing and fine tuning Mink. Six races in and I have four 2nd place finishes.
My windows are all checked from age, so I used that ghetto spray to tint them. I also connected the lines between windows with paint. I like the look.
Still sewing and making new stuff. These will help my kidneys and back.
Oh, and out new numbers in the sil to match my boat serial, 22. The residue from old numbers was a bitch, but acetone made pretty quick work of it.
IMG_20240304_172628017_HDR.jpg

IMG_20240303_163841976.jpg

IMG_20240303_144209859.jpg

IMG_20240303_164351140.jpg

IMG_20240305_223840862~2.jpg
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Good read.
I'm new here, so I hope you don't mind me chiming in.
I've done a little boat work in my lifetime and have rescued a couple that were left for dead.
I've also done a little racing, both bouy and distance.
Changing sail numbers reminded me of one of my phuckups.
We were scrambling to get the sail numbers on a new to us spinnaker right before a distance race. The 1st side came out great.
We flipped the sail and matched the numbers identically...unfortunately, only dyslexic people could read them correctly. I blame the rum the night before.
Good luck with the boat.
 
dun ploughin said:
Good read.
I'm new here, so I hope you don't mind me chiming in.
I've done a little boat work in my lifetime and have rescued a couple that were left for dead.
I've also done a little racing, both bouy and distance.
Changing sail numbers reminded me of one of my phuckups.
We were scrambling to get the sail numbers on a new to us spinnaker right before a distance race. The 1st side came out great.
We flipped the sail and matched the numbers identically...unfortunately, only dyslexic people could read them correctly. I blame the rum the night before.
Good luck with the boat.
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STFU noob. :flipoff2:
Just kidding, you are most welcome.
Funny story about the numbers. :laughing:
Well i just numbered mine up for the next 8 to 10 weeks. I'm pulling the trigger on some new sails. Fuckit. Doesn't matter if you are the richest guy in the graveyard. :laughing:
Now, I need to find a trailer. If I'm putting sails on then I'll probably keep her for awhile. :laughing:
 
rugger said:
STFU noob. :flipoff2:
Just kidding, you are most welcome.
Funny story about the numbers. :laughing:
Well i just numbered mine up for the next 8 to 10 weeks. I'm pulling the trigger on some new sails. Fuckit. Doesn't matter if you are the richest guy in the graveyard. :laughing:
Now, I need to find a trailer. If I'm putting sails on then I'll probably keep her for awhile. :laughing:
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There's a few places you can buy decent used rags (sails for all of you who thought about snarky comments). I've had decent luck. You can search by sail dimensions.
You can always build a trailer from trailer house axels and A frame if you're just going short distance. Keep it simple.
Out of curiosity, if you had the bottom sanded, why did you go with ablative vs hard bottom paint?
 
dun ploughin said:
There's a few places you can buy decent used rags (sails for all of you who thought about snarky comments). I've had decent luck. You can search by sail dimensions.
You can always build a trailer from trailer house axels and A frame if you're just going short distance. Keep it simple.
Out of curiosity, if you had the bottom sanded, why did you go with ablative vs hard bottom paint?
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It already had ablative on it. It would have been a much bigger task to take it down all the way to gelcoat and then risk burning through and having to barrier coat the whole bottom. It was a time and budget move. I had to get back in the water to race. If I do it again I'll blast the bottom clean.
 
Took accurate measurements, maximized the area of my mainsail. With added roach it could be an additional 20 sqft. Also maximized the use of the forestay length and went with a 4 oz 150 genoa. All tri-radial cut Contender Dacron.
I went with Precision out of B.C.
 
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See if they can stitch a friction ring into your reefing loop. Make the reefing line on the starboard side of the boom though the aft bolt for that Blueshark block. Grab another block and install it on the port side of the boom mirror image of that Blueshark. use another cam cleat in line with the bottom of the block on the port side.

Reef line ties off on starboard block, runs up through the friction ring on the sail, back down through blushark block on port side, through cam cleat to hold it tight.
 
KacksterK5 said:
See if they can stitch a friction ring into your reefing loop. Make the reefing line on the starboard side of the boom though the aft bolt for that Blueshark block. Grab another block and install it on the port side of the boom mirror image of that Blueshark. use another cam cleat in line with the bottom of the block on the port side.

Reef line ties off on starboard block, runs up through the friction ring on the sail, back down through blushark block on port side, through cam cleat to hold it tight.
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Would be really pimp if you installed a sheave box in the back of the boom and ran all the controls forward so they aren't hanging on you and your crew can manage the halyard and the reef line as you drive. or just run the reef line forward on the outside of the boom and have the cleat fwd enough that it's out of your way.
 
KacksterK5 said:
Would be really pimp if you installed a sheave box in the back of the boom and ran all the controls forward so they aren't hanging on you and your crew can manage the halyard and the reef line as you drive. or just run the reef line forward on the outside of the boom and have the cleat fwd enough that it's out of your way.
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The big issue is that I'm likely to single hand a good bit. The further aft I can keep controls the better for me. I'll have to figure out a balance for it all.
 
rugger said:
The big issue is that I'm likely to single hand a good bit. The further aft I can keep controls the better for me. I'll have to figure out a balance for it all.
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You'll be up in the companionway managing the main halyard to reef, having the reef line there to pull down could be helpful

I hadn't seen that Blushark stuff before, looks like Amazon's Harken copies. Is it good stuff?
 
KacksterK5 said:
You'll be up in the companionway managing the main halyard to reef, having the reef line there to pull down could be helpful

I hadn't seen that Blushark stuff before, looks like Amazon's Harken copies. Is it good stuff?
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It's good so far. I like it as well as the Ronstan stuff. It's probably double the weight of Harken at a fraction of the price. I'm not particularly weight focused since my interior is stripped. 😂
 
I've blown a LOT of Ronstan stuff up on the bigger boats. Had a Runner block let go and almost cost us a carbon mast. I tie safety's though the blocks now
 
Clemson13 said:
Which shoal did the guy following you beach his ass on :lmao::lmao:
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Somewhere around there headed north. It was light wind and I was on the low side rail. Wind was at a reach. I could see mud eddies behind my boat. I couldn't believe that he was following me.

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