What's new

Retro/Modern 308 Precision Rifle

300sniper

Gun Plumber
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
695
Messages
416
Loc
Greenwood, CA
Built this shop rifle mostly with random parts lying around, gotten on trade, or left over from old projects.
Rubicon Precision action
18.5” Brux heavy palma, 1:9 twist barrel, chambered with a 308 Bisley spec reamer
Manners EH1-A Elite with Mini-chassis
Henderson Precision ARCA rail and Harris adapter
Timney Elite trigger
Nightforce NSX 3.5-15x50F1
Silencerco Omega 300 and ASR muzzle brake




97ABEAB1-6AC3-4405-9BA8-B784925898CB.jpeg

3C9CB1BC-8E09-4DF2-A559-63357A0E2BE0.jpeg

71AEB278-F482-4834-B682-1207CD5F54A9.jpeg

C9193D18-8EB8-4722-A2BE-EF42E1C8AFB1.jpeg
 
No load development, just took some used/unknown Lapua brass, 210M primer, 44g Varget, 175smk .030 off, 2588 FPS, 5.5 SD. I’ll leave it.
 
Oh, and 220smks with 13 grains of Trail Boss is nice at 1050 FPS, but I do need to work on it. I should be able get better than 2” at 100 yards.
 
love the rifle. not to be a dick, but what part is retro? :beer:

i dig the 1:9. my main comp gun is a 1:8 and i may never get a slower twist in a 308 on a custom again.
 
love the rifle. not to be a dick, but what part is retro? :beer:

i dig the 1:9. my main comp gun is a 1:8 and i may never get a slower twist in a 308 on a custom again.
The caliber is retro!

If I was buying a barrel for a short 308, I'd get a 1:8, mainly to ensure all subs stabilize. Even with the 1:9, it stabilizes 220 SMKs at 1050.
 
A buddy has one of these (not his gun, his has a Vortex HD2 on it), and he came up this weekend and we worked up a load for 168 Bergers, (42.5g Varget, 2667fps, 5.5SD), and could get some pretty consistent hits at 1325. Winds are very tricky at Cowtown, you have to really use mirage as the direction can change a couple times before the bullet gets to the target. .308 isn't dead, but there sure are some better alternatives for LR.

18859943_1.jpg
 
I've got an Omega 300 in jail right now, and am planning on using it direct thread, but is there any advantage to going to a QD brake mount? The audio guy in me thinks the blast from the brake would be harder to contain in a can. I'd love to have the tools an knowledge to work up some computer modeling, I still feel most suppressor mfgs are building cans by trial and error.
 
I've got an Omega 300 in jail right now, and am planning on using it direct thread, but is there any advantage to going to a QD brake mount? The audio guy in me thinks the blast from the brake would be harder to contain in a can. I'd love to have the tools an knowledge to work up some computer modeling, I still feel most suppressor mfgs are building cans by trial and error.
I like the ASR so I can use it on a 14.5” barrel with pinned ASR flash hider.
 
I like the ASR so I can use it on a 14.5” barrel with pinned ASR flash hider.
Yeah, I get the sharing amongst platforms, I'm just spitballing on ultimate SPL performance.

I've got a Surefire I can swap between AR's, and a AAC on my re-barreled Tikka, but planning on direct thread for the Seekins Hit when it comes in. I guess I should do my own testing, I've got the SPL gear to do it, and of course will test for accuracy.
 
I've got an Omega 300 in jail right now, and am planning on using it direct thread, but is there any advantage to going to a QD brake mount? The audio guy in me thinks the blast from the brake would be harder to contain in a can. I'd love to have the tools an knowledge to work up some computer modeling, I still feel most suppressor mfgs are building cans by trial and error.
yeah, i dont feel like thats happening at all. there is a lot of modeling and prototype testing going on. they are using liquid modeling software to design with and it cant be perfect because there's no way it can take into account barrel harmonics, tube harmonics, heat, etc.

i dont think the brake "blast" is doing anything at all negative within a can to contribute to reduced sound reduction. most brake mount cans, the baffles are partially completely covered by the mounting surface of the can and it immediately goes into the blast chamber. i think, if anything, the brake should contibute to a more efficient can as you are looking for the most turbulence as possible (within reason) for the gasses to travel through the can. what better way to do that than with a break that directs gasses radially within the blast chamber like a brake does.

oh well, im currently waiting on what the few people that have knowledge of the particular silencer claim is the quietest and best toned can in the industry, Tac Ops Tac-30. hopefully its done with eforms by mid July.
 
yeah, i dont feel like thats happening at all. there is a lot of modeling and prototype testing going on. they are using liquid modeling software to design with and it cant be perfect because there's no way it can take into account barrel harmonics, tube harmonics, heat, etc.

I think it's split more 60% trail and error. Prototype testing is trail and error. Fluid dynamics is a good tool and should be able to be very effective if you know how to use it. It doesn't have to take all that other tuff in to consideration. That is a common misconception that the modeling has to be 100% perfect and take everything into account. You don't. You need a model that you can verify for the set of variables (smaller the better) that you can verify in the model and real world, then you design for the set of change that you want to see relative to your model. Otherwise you'd never get any where in FEA analysis.
 
yeah, i dont feel like thats happening at all. there is a lot of modeling and prototype testing going on. they are using liquid modeling software to design with and it cant be perfect because there's no way it can take into account barrel harmonics, tube harmonics, heat, etc.

i dont think the brake "blast" is doing anything at all negative within a can to contribute to reduced sound reduction. most brake mount cans, the baffles are partially completely covered by the mounting surface of the can and it immediately goes into the blast chamber. i think, if anything, the brake should contibute to a more efficient can as you are looking for the most turbulence as possible (within reason) for the gasses to travel through the can. what better way to do that than with a break that directs gasses radially within the blast chamber like a brake does.

oh well, im currently waiting on what the few people that have knowledge of the particular silencer claim is the quietest and best toned can in the industry, Tac Ops Tac-30. hopefully its done with eforms by mid July.
Of course you don't ! :flipoff2::laughing:

I was talking to that white haired guy that works for Sig and is their suppressor guy at the 2018 SHOT, and I mentioned that if the shock wave, the pressure and heat all change as they go through the can, then why are most suppressors symmetrical from front to back? I think we're a long ways from getting the most performance out of suppressors, and proper fluid modeling will go a long ways with this. The Area 419 system is a step in the right direction, IMO.

When my Omega is out of jail I'll do some testing with the QD brake and direct, I know it's a data set of one but it might be interesting. And I'm not going to clean my barrel between strings just to piss off you know who.
 
hen why are most suppressors symmetrical from front to back



I'm not sure that's the case. It may be now that many have gotten lazy but Maxim's early patents weren't symmetrical and even the venerable NT4 isn't either. I'm almost sure neither is the m4-2000.
 
I think that the shape of the baffles or mono-core could be tailored to suit the forces at the time they're encountered. Drop a rock in a pool and you get somewhat consistent waves, but add a second splash or some bounceback from walls, and the waveforms are very different. Again, I don't know if these thoughts have shit to do with fuck, but if I was designing cans, I'd be looking at that.
 
I think that the shape of the baffles or mono-core could be tailored to suit the forces at the time they're encountered. Drop a rock in a pool and you get somewhat consistent waves, but add a second splash or some bounceback from walls, and the waveforms are very different. Again, I don't know if these thoughts have shit to do with fuck, but if I was designing cans, I'd be looking at that.

Look I'm on your side. And you're not wrong. You're so not wrong the guy who invented silencers agreed with your assessment and designed accordingly.
 
Look I'm on your side. And you're not wrong. You're so not wrong the guy who invented silencers agreed with your assessment and designed accordingly.
I never had a chance to talk to old Hiram, maybe Gary did, so I don't know if it was packaging or a pre-computer attempt at what I'm talking about. I'm quite sure I'm not the first to think those thoughts, but when I see a can that has a mono-core that is essentially the same front to back, or a stack of evenly spaced baffles I think there's probably room for improvement. I really wanted a Thunderbeast, but got the Omega through RSR for $500 less, and I'm sure it will be fine for what I'm doing with it.
 
Fun round. But I would go with the 6ARC, if i were to do it again. Probly will go that route after i burn up all the grendel ammo that have on hand
 
Fun round. But I would go with the 6ARC, if i were to do it again. Probly will go that route after i burn up all the grendel ammo that have on hand
keep your Grendel brass, you can convert it to 6ARC. That being said, my 6ARC is giving me fits, actually my 6ARC reloads are giving me fits. I need to spend some time figuring it out, low time for re-loading and having to keep my PRS stock topped off has kept me from getting my 6ARC issues fixed. Got 1k Lapua 6.5 Grendel brass, so once I figure it out it should be good.
The drop at 1k with 105's is almost exactly the same as my 147g 6.5CM loads, it is a fun round.

256396209_4712379345492206_3551755062745293061_n.jpg
 
Oh I am. When I got into the grendel. Brass was $0.60/round. American gunner was $0.75/round and hornady black was $0.95-$1.00/round. So I stocked up.....in the process of all that, I learned AR's were not just blaster guns and have since. Went of the deep end
 
Fun round. But I would go with the 6ARC, if i were to do it again. Probly will go that route after i burn up all the grendel ammo that have on hand
I stumbled across what I thought/think is a great setup . Had never even looked at grendel beforehand . Essentially a 20in seekins sp10 upper on a rock river lower . Couple of my friends just got into competition long range game and had some 6ARC’s built by a local precision shop
Keep in mind that 6.5 Grendel and 6mm ARC both use a bolt that has much less meat for the locking lugs, as it's a much bigger diameter case vs. .223. I figure it's a consumable and keep a spare in my range/comp pack.
I have zero rounds yet for mine do not even know how available it is
 
I stumbled across what I thought/think is a great setup . Had never even looked at grendel beforehand . Essentially a 20in seekins sp10 upper on a rock river lower . Couple of my friends just got into competition long range game and had some 6ARC’s built by a local precision shop

I have zero rounds yet for mine do not even know how available it is
My shooting buddy has a nice LaRue Grendel and when all this stupid panic buying started, Grendel was very available when the more common caliber were MIA, but now all the Grendel ammo has been bought up and the only thing I see these days is Wolf steel case. Buddy now has a zero press, so I'll get him going on handloading.
 
Fwiw have been around 3 of the 18" grendel uppers from PSA. 2 were kinda gritty to start with. But all ended up being way more accurate than I expected
 
There isn’t crap available online I’d been afraid to look …. great!
 
Top Back Refresh