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RestoMog 404

RestoMog

Unimog junky
Joined
Sep 22, 2021
Member Number
4420
Messages
21
Loc
Oregon
Hello all, Austin asked that I share my build here so I'll do my best. Im a bit more active on Instagram if you'd like to follow me there and I also try to put out some youtube videos of what I'm doing.

So this is my 1963 Unimog 404.114 I picked up in spring of 2020, it already had the om617 swapped in but the wiring was sketch and the mount was made with metal shears and hot glue which kinda matched the "cab" that was on it and the deck out back that held the stock 300td fuel tank.
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I wasnt sure what way I was going with it at first so we mostly focused on small clean up stuff, turning the deck into a porch, taking out the chunks of hockey pucks, and learning how the milkshake machine works.
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Gotta have poser shots.

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Another poser, it did get to do some work dragging our old Oliver tractor around the yard to get it started before we get it sold off. IMG_20200713_122459.jpg IMG_20200719_112536.jpg

At this point I started looking for a new cab and bed and was able to find one only a few hours away, he even had a pto box off a 411 to sell me.
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Some time between then and now I managed to acquire a '65 404, this time with a mostly complete cab and more importantly, a pritsche bed frame, plus a bed full of other goodies.

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I really started to think about the direction I wanted to go with it from here. My goal at this point is as the title implies, a resto-modded unimog. I had probably the best engine a 404 could have, that was in good condition, with at least one solid cab and a solid chassis to build on. I have no real interest in any hardcore wheeling because thats when things start breaking and thats more than I can afford, but I can probably restore this thing and modernize it as I go.

I initially planned to start with the body work, having the cab and bed frame sand blasted, but I quickly realized body work sucks so while I have it sitting back on the chassis and trimmed to fit around the engine thats as far as I have gotten there.
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While the diesel bolts to the stock bell housing it sits very upright, putting the stock turbo in the passenger foot well and the injection pump in the drivers shins.

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I swapped out to a Holset he221w and a 49 state exhaust manifold to pull the turbo down closer to the engine to help with clearance, this turbo will also spool better and give a little more room at the end of the rev range which will work well with this engine and the 404's gearing on the highway. IMG_20210223_181904.jpg IMG_20210225_174536.jpg IMG_20210225_174559.jpg

And on the drivers side I removed the factory oil filter housing for a DoomsDayDiesel relocation plate.

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Apologize for the vomit, Will be a lot easier to do this as I go rather than try and remember the order of it after.
 

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Saw your update on Youtube; could you provide more detail about the fit of the cab with the new turbo etc?
 
Saw your update on Youtube; could you provide more detail about the fit of the cab with the new turbo etc?
Sorry for the delay, been crazy busy with work. The turbo fits very well, I had a machine shop change the pattern on my manifold to accept the he221w bolt pattern so I didnt have to use the spacer that pushes it out. Its a little tight but seems like it will fit perfectly fine for now.
 

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Sorry for the delay, been crazy busy with work. The turbo fits very well, I had a machine shop change the pattern on my manifold to accept the he221w bolt pattern so I didnt have to use the spacer that pushes it out. Its a little tight but seems like it will fit perfectly fine for now.
That looks great! Will absolutely be going this route.
 
Sorry for the delay, been crazy busy with work. The turbo fits very well, I had a machine shop change the pattern on my manifold to accept the he221w bolt pattern so I didnt have to use the spacer that pushes it out. Its a little tight but seems like it will fit perfectly fine for now.
Nice work, any more updates?
 
While the diesel bolts to the stock bell housing it sits very upright, putting the stock turbo in the passenger foot well and the injection pump in the drivers shins.

IMG_20200706_193309.jpg

Seems I may be going down the OM617a path here soon. Many people use the 13* adapter or put a body lift on to clear the OM617. Did you cut the canter dash out because it was hitting or just for easy of working on the motor/turbo?
 
Seems I may be going down the OM617a path here soon. Many people use the 13* adapter or put a body lift on to clear the OM617. Did you cut the canter dash out because it was hitting or just for easy of working on the motor/turbo?
I think that was a picture of the original cab he had with the truck.... I am also curious about all that had to happen to get the Cab in place. In your YouTube video it seemed like there was a lot of cutting going on.

Austin: what happened to the m130 you bought?
 
Seems I may be going down the OM617a path here soon. Many people use the 13* adapter or put a body lift on to clear the OM617. Did you cut the canter dash out because it was hitting or just for easy of working on the motor/turbo?
This is the original cab that was on the truck, the previous owner cut all that out to make the engine fit but it is unnecessary, the only trimming you must do is the drivers side foot well around the injection pump and front of the engine. I'm honestly not sure if the stock turbo will fit because I already had it off and was planning to install the he221w as seen in my other post. I based my engine mount off of Mike Day's design but skipped the bend, My cab is still at stock height and I want to keep it that way though this will keep me from getting the valve cover off with the cab on.
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I'm awful at maintaining a build thread because I cant video, take pictures, and get work done while also organizing all of this in my head lol, I'll answer any questions I can though. I'm thinking a may clean all this up and do a better video/picture thread this coming year, everything will be coming back apart for final paint and any fixes which i'm hoping will let me organize better.
 
dafuq is going on with that engine mount?
The Stock M180 is only bolted to the bell housing and the one pivot point (bushing) you see on the front crossmember. The OM617 weighs about 200(ish) more pounds and in their donor cars mount with typical engine with mounts on both side of the block. When people transplant the motor in to a Mog a bracket like that is typically made to help support the extra weight, but still allow the drivetrain to move around like it was design to.
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The Stock M180 is only bolted to the bell housing and the one pivot point (bushing) you see on the front crossmember. The OM617 weighs about 200(ish) more pounds and in their donor cars mount with typical engine with mounts on both side of the block. When people transplant the motor in to a Mog a bracket like that is typically made to help support the extra weight, but still allow the drivetrain to move around like it was design to.
I assume "like it was designed to" involves two mounts at the transfer case end of things?
 
The bar is schedule 40 pipe and should be plenty strong. I wanted to be sure the engine had support at both the front and at the bell housing, the stock m180 has rods that attach to the upper oil pan and the bottom of the bell housing for additional support.
 
Do the 404 cabs tilt forward like the 406?
 
Getting ready to drop the diff back in the housing and I remembered this was going on, popped the diff out of the carrier and the carrier open and found the thrust washers for the spider gears are toast, hopefully I can source some new ones from expedition imports and get this back together soon.

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What did you you to mount the bell housing to the engine?
What are you using for flywheel/clutch. I was going to get the clutch conversion kit from EI, seems like it'd be better for the diesel ... you seen anything diffrent?
Reused the rear plate off the M180 and I believe used the stock mog flywheel, that part was already done when I bought the truck. I just had the flywheel zero balanced as the om617 is balanced with the front pulley and flywheel.
I'm using the diaphragm style clutch kit with the 4 puck sprung clutch disc and its working just fine, smooth engagement, no slip, actuates nicely after adjustment.
 
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