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Red Max Blower WTF?

DozerDan82

DozerDan82

Master of the Universe!!!
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
1073
Messages
714
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3rd Rock From the Big Ball of Fire
Dealing with an EBZ 7500. I have that and a EB7001. Up until recently they have both been super reliable. The 7500 recently became finiky at full throttle. I threw a plug and fuel filter at it, nothing. Decided to revisit it and grabbed a carb for it. Installed and it fired right up but would not rev up (issue it was having previously) . Can't find much on internet that is real info.

Tonight I checked the plug- decent to fine. Checked for spark - its there seems weakish but hard to tell as I do not work on these much. Pulled some covers and the coil. Coil looked like it was touching the flywheel (some light scuff marks) Cleaned it all up, regapped it and put it back together.

Fires on first pull. Revs good but wants to bog down at full throttle. Drop RMP and it runs fine. Rev again it and will wind out for 30-40 seconds then start to bog, rinse and repeat.

I have read the exhaust can clog, but the screen is clean and I seem to have good flow out of it.

Shy of getting an adapter to test cyl pressure any ideas.

Thing is starting to annoy me. I will rebuild it if need be, but it literally went from running 100% to this. And that it starts right up has me puzzled.

New coil is like $60, Rebuild kit is like $160, new blower is like $500. I have already dropped prob $50 into it, don't mind some more but do not want to rebuilt it to the cost of a new one.

Oddly the old ass 7001 still runs fine, this one is half as old.
 
Are we not to demand boobiepeekchures?
pretty sure we demand boobiepeekchures.
 
Ditchdigger said:
Are we not to demand boobiepeekchures?
pretty sure we demand boobiepeekchures.
Click to expand...

Well since you asked... :flipoff2:

IMG_4197.jpg
 
Fuel filter and or tank vent? Hole in fuel line? Hole in impulse line (this model may not have an impulse hide).
 
Ted_Kaczynski said:
Milwaukee?
:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

my dad bought one of those after ruining his shoulder figuring he'd hurt himself less by using it instead of starting the 2 stroke one

it is extremely weak compared to a real leaf blower, sorta like sticking the hose on the shopvac exhaust
 
so it bogs cold the same as it does when hot? if yes , that would seem to rule out the coil. have you checked out the fuel pickup screen in the tank? and i'd do all new fuel lines vacuum lines etc, making sure they are the correct diameter. sounds like a pinhole losing prime or fuel starvation.


every running condition with my 7001 has been related to fuel lines. it will grab a little extra top end rpm after it warms up & it also always fires on the 3rd pull when cold, not 2 pulls, always 3 - makes no difference how much you hit the primer bulb.
 
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DozerDan82 said:
Well since you asked... :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Jesus Christ! You a god damn Sasquatch?!? 😀
Sorry I asked.
edit: have you checked the prime bulb if it has one?
edit:edit: not referencing yer tit.
 
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WTF? said:
so it bogs cold the same as it does when hot? if yes , that would seem to rule out the coil. have you checked out the fuel pickup screen in the tank? and i'd do all new fuel lines vacuum lines etc, making sure they are the correct diameter. sounds like a pinhole losing prime or fuel starvation.


every running condition with my 7001 has been related to fuel lines. it will grab a little extra top end rpm after it warms up & it also always fires on the 3rd pull when cold, not 2 pulls, always 3 - makes no difference how much you hit the primer bulb.
Click to expand...

New fuel lines, and pick up, no noticeable leaks

I pulled the exhaust but then decided I didn't feel like going any further, will look at it more after work
 
Does it have valves to adjust like a br700 Stihl. 3 years after new I adjusted my valves and it made a big difference.

*edit

well i looked it up, no valves... how about crud on the reeds?

all the little 2smoke stuff i have gets a shot of powerfoam every year. its miracle in a can for 2stroke boat motors....
amsoilPower-FoamAPF.jpg
 
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DozerDan82 said:
Well yes, but I am failing to see how an air leak below the jug would affect the running. Again it is a legit question, I have not really played with much 2 stroke stuff. Like on a 4 stroke it would just cause an oil leak if a crank seal goes, what is different here?
Click to expand...

vacuum leak
crankcase is in the intake path, breh
 
[486 said:
;n107677]

vacuum leak
crankcase is in the intake path, breh
Click to expand...

Yep - that.

Intake charge is sucked into the crank case as piston rises, then shoved into the cylinder through the ports as the piston goes down. Worn crank seals can definitely fawk the mixture on a 2-smoker. Air sucked through the crank seals didn't go through the carb, therefore waydafook lean.

Your fuel/air mixture is the lubrication for the bottom end, and it does that on the way to the combustion chamber. That's why you mix oil in 2-stroke gas.
 
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[486 said:
;n107677]

vacuum leak
crankcase is in the intake path, breh
Click to expand...


Yep - that.

Intake charge is sucked into the crank case as piston rises, then shoved into the cylinder through the ports as the piston goes down. Worn crank seals can definitely fawk the mixture on a 2-smoker. Air sucked through the crank seals didn't go through the carb, therefore waydafook lean.

Your fuel/air mixture is the lubrication for the bottom end, and it does that on the way to the combustion chamber. That's why you mix oil in 2-stroke gas.


Not doubting any of that, but I still done see it, again prob having a brain fart (or lack of a brain fart) - Looking at the lay out of this setup, and the schem of the seals I found I can not see how that would affect this. Again not arguing, just not seeing it. The Air in is super high on the cyl wall, and looks like it comes right from the carb/air intake area.

Maybe I am just not seeing the forest through the trees.

Either way, I have to switch hats and figure out faulty brakes on an 02 yukon... only when running - with no leaks. I am hoping for the booster hose as it looks like shit after only 275,000 miles.... fucking junk. ha

Air mover thingy to be revisited!
 
DozerDan82 said:
Yep - that.

Intake charge is sucked into the crank case as piston rises, then shoved into the cylinder through the ports as the piston goes down. Worn crank seals can definitely fawk the mixture on a 2-smoker. Air sucked through the crank seals didn't go through the carb, therefore waydafook lean.

Your fuel/air mixture is the lubrication for the bottom end, and it does that on the way to the combustion chamber. That's why you mix oil in 2-stroke gas.


Not doubting any of that, but I still done see it, again prob having a brain fart (or lack of a brain fart) - Looking at the lay out of this setup, and the schem of the seals I found I can not see how that would affect this. Again not arguing, just not seeing it. The Air in is super high on the cyl wall, and looks like it comes right from the carb/air intake area.

Maybe I am just not seeing the forest through the trees.

Either way, I have to switch hats and figure out faulty brakes on an 02 yukon... only when running - with no leaks. I am hoping for the booster hose as it looks like shit after only 275,000 miles.... fucking junk. ha

Air mover thingy to be revisited!
Click to expand...

Probably doesn't relate but, I have a thread in OSR about a 2 stroke outboard motor problem and it turned out to be a crank seal. Motor wouldn't start and everything checked out. Seal was blown right out of its bore.
 
Ugly pumpkin said:
Probably doesn't relate but, I have a thread in OSR about a 2 stroke outboard motor problem and it turned out to be a crank seal. Motor wouldn't start and everything checked out. Seal was blown right out of its bore.
Click to expand...

I think we just figured out the next thing to check on buddies pontoon boat that wont start and run without alot of outside help.
 
not2hye said:
I think we just figured out the next thing to check on buddies pontoon boat that wont start and run without alot of outside help.
Click to expand...

On a semi-dead 2T engine, shoot carb cleaner at the crank seals while cranking --> if it fires up, bingo.

On a motor that runs, shoot carb clean at crank seals --> if RPM goes up or down, plan on crank seals soon.

A crank seal leak on a traditional 2-stroke acts exactly like a vacuum leak (because it is).


EDIT: random internet picture to help visualize the process:

maxresdefault.jpg
 
ExWrench said:
On a semi-dead 2T engine, shoot carb cleaner at the crank seals while cranking --> if it fires up, bingo.

On a motor that runs, shoot carb clean at crank seals --> if RPM goes up or down, plan on crank seals soon.

A crank seal leak on a traditional 2-stroke acts exactly like a vacuum leak (because it is).


EDIT: random internet picture to help visualize the process:

Click to expand...

I know how a 2 stroke works :laughing:
Tracker 60hp outboard, auto oiler has been giving us all kinds of issues, got that bypassed for diag purposes, got it to run. Then it back fired really hard and wont run at all, unless full throttle. I wonder if it blew the crank seal out.
 
Don’t the 2 stroke guys pull a vacuum on the motor after a rebuilt to test the crank seals?
 
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