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Re-gear question

ricekrispyota

ricekrispyota

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2022
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4911
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59
I'm thinking about re-gearing and putting a locker in the rear of my Dodge. From 3.55 to 4.88. Can anyone give me a decent guess on the cost to have the whole thing done?
For parts gears/new carrier (front)/locker (rear)/ and master install kit, I have it estimated to $1800. I think it will be another $1,000 to do both axles. Is that correct? Is there anything else I need to get?

Or would it be a better idea to get a Behemoth strong box (4:1) and new driveshafts to get the lower gearing for crawling?

Thanks
 
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What size tires? What use case? How much work are you doing yourself?

I’d budget more if your handing it off to someone. Common quote around here is $3k+ for R&R (at least for IFS)
 
Depends on your biggest concern. Axle gears with be noticeable on road, but not a lot offroad. You want crawl ratio, doubler hands down. Maybe you can get some factory 4.10s for cheap to get you by?
 
rockota said:
What size tires? What use case? How much work are you doing yourself?

I’d budget more if your handing it off to someone. Common quote around here is $3k+ for R&R (at least for IFS)
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37" Toyo's. NP231 t-case. If I go the strong box route, Ill do all the work for the install myself. Gear setup is way outta my wheel house and, knowing the danger of screwing it up, would send that job to a local guy.

The truck handles speed on the road fine right now, so maybe a lunchbox locker install in the back (which means a new carrier and set up work) and the strongbox. Thanks for the input.
 
total newb said:
What axles?
Youre gona need carriers reguardless so lockers are only a slight increase over posi's/opens and lunch boxes.
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Currently have a Dana 44 front (I'd leave it open diff for now, until I could afford a selectable locker) and a Chrysler 9.25 limited slip rear.
 
ricekrispyota said:
Currently have a Dana 44 front (I'd leave it open diff for now, until I could afford a selectable locker) and a Chrysler 9.25 limited slip rear.
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You’re going to spend more money than the rig is worth with those axles. You’re putting lipstick on a pig, a shop could fuck you over for 4-6k easily.
 
I ran a double t case and 3.55’s on 35’s, 86-1 which was way lower than spending 3x the money on 5.13’s to get 36-1
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Aren't the same Era 2500/3500 axles bolt in?

I'd be looking for a set of 8 lug axles before spending money on those half tons.
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Yes, and around here people will pay you to take them, lots of chassis robbed of the Cummins, and the rest isn’t worth the time to scrap.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Aren't the same Era 2500/3500 axles bolt in?

I'd be looking for a set of 8 lug axles before spending money on those half tons.
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Mvanhelden said:
Yes, and around here people will pay you to take them, lots of chassis robbed of the Cummins, and the rest isn’t worth the time to scrap.
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Perfect. I already have an 8 lug rear with 4.10 sitting in my garage. Guess it's time to start looking for a front. Thanks everyone.
 
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ricekrispyota said:
Perfect. I already have an 8 lug rear with 3.73 sitting in my garage. Guess it's time to start looking for a front. Thanks everyone.
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I don’t think I’ll bother building a 2nd gen D60. Build a D70U out of 2nd gen, as it’ll be “bolt in”. Smooth bottom center section too.

I may be wrong but I think 2 gen D80 (SRW, unsure about DRW) axle shafts will bolt right in 2nd gen’s D60 & D70 with 35 spline carrier/locker installed.
 
So, It looks like the rear end I have in the garage is a Dana 60u out of a van. 4.10 open diff, 3.5” axle tubes and 35 semi-floater spline axles.
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The leaf spring perches are about 5 “ wider than the Chrysler 9.25 and the shock mounts are different, but seems like a pretty simple fix. Easy to install the lunchbox locker also, I think. From what I read, it’s a pretty good start.
 
ricekrispyota said:
So, It looks like the rear end I have in the garage is a Dana 60u out of a van. 4.10 open diff, 3.5” axle tubes and 35 semi-floater spline axles.
IMG_1345.jpeg



IMG_1358.jpeg

IMG_1356.jpeg


The leaf spring perches are about 5 “ wider than the Chrysler 9.25 and the shock mounts are different, but seems like a pretty simple fix. Easy to install the lunchbox locker also, I think. From what I read, it’s a pretty good start.
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Those axles have c-clips though I thought. Might want to sell that and grab the rear out of a dodge. Don't think anyone makes a lunchbox for those, and to get rid of the c clips to run a locker will be more trouble than that axle is worth.
 
Mvanhelden said:
So you find the most bullshit bastard axle to swap in….. you sound like a troll…..
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Thank for the good info. I'll work on how I sound for ya.

LScout800 said:
Those axles have c-clips though I thought. Might want to sell that and grab the rear out of a dodge. Don't think anyone makes a lunchbox for those, and to get rid of the c clips to run a locker will be more trouble than that axle is worth.
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Well crap. That is actually good info. For some reason I thought the locker would fit in without issue. Didn't think about the C-clips. Looks like it's back to the drawing board since I don't want to be cutting down the axle tubes for the eliminators. Run the 9.25 til it breaks is the way it's looking now.

Thanks for all the useful responses.
 
You are now on the slippery slope of basically cost vs performance return. You could run that D60 van rear and if a 9.25 has been surviving just fine I don't think you would have any problems but finding a locker and such is going to be a pain and money. 4.10 with 35-37 is a decent street setup as long as your not looking to tow much and would probably work nice with the doubler setup. Hell you could run that rear for now along with 4.10 front or sell it to fund the new rear axle.

i say it all the time on here but I am used to working with very little $ on a project so finding a set of take out 3\4T axles from a pickup would be where I headed. Even then you have choices in the rear from D60-70-80 and then drum brakes or disc depending on year, if your current axle is drum then going disc will be bit more parts and money invested for master cylinder and proportioning valve.

Basically V8 trucks got D60 front and rear other than some early\rare low GVW trucks with D44 8 lug front. V10 and Cummins trucks got the D60 front and D70 rear if automatic and D80 if manual. Gears are either 3.54 or 4.10 unless someone has been in them before. In my area the V10 trucks were cheaper to find even if the parts are the same so if you were patient you could find the axles for maybe $200 each or a roller for 500-1000 and then sell off some parts you dont need. For awhile everyone wanted 4.10 axles but then cummins guys started hunting 3.54 for better highway rpm\MPG so they went up in price.

You could also go with something from different brand like chevy 10.5 from a GMT800 truck as they are almost same width as the ram axles and the 14 bolt is plenty strong, gearing there is usually 3.73 or 4.10 though so have to go 4.10 if you want to match a ram front without redoing gears. Factory limited slips work if your not hard on your stuff and I'm guessing your not but then the carrier is not usable later for a locker upgrade like an open diff would be. Ford has the sterling with 3.73-4.10-4.30 and some of them got a factory locker but then you are looking at redrilling or adapters to get to the 8x6.5 to match front.
 
TrailTamer said:
I don’t think I’ll bother building a 2nd gen D60. Build a D70U out of 2nd gen, as it’ll be “bolt in”. Smooth bottom center section too.

I may be wrong but I think 2 gen D80 (SRW, unsure about DRW) axle shafts will bolt right in 2nd gen’s D60 & D70 with 35 spline carrier/locker installed.
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Yup that's right, my friend's 1996 2500 Magnum 5spd rear D60 took the exact same Yukon 35 spline axles (after he did a Ziplocker) as my truck which is a 1998.5 24V 5spd D80 rear axle.
 
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