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raw metal rust prevention in shop

Poke

Poke

I’m condescending
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
763
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1,392
What do you put on raw steel to prevent rust during a build? Is there something that is really easy to clean off prior to welding? Wd-40?

I have a chassis in a higher humidity environment.
 
In a previous thread some folks were talking about "Gibbs" lubricant, which apparently can be welded through.

I picked up some, and tried it, and you can for sure MIG weld through it like it's not there. I can't really attest to it's rust prevention though, as I don't live in a high humidity area. It's not cheap though.
 
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I did some googling because I have the same problem: https://www.metalrescue.com/products/dry-coat/

Looks like its weld safe and water based so you dont have to deal with toxic bullshit killing your dog or something if he licked the metal LOL. It supposedly dries dry which is nice I guess. I have never used it, i will probably try it out.
 
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Slander said:
I did some googling because I have the same problem: https://www.metalrescue.com/products/dry-coat/

Looks like its weld safe and water based so you dont have to deal with toxic bullshit killing your dog or something if he licked the metal LOL. It supposedly dries dry which is nice I guess. I have never used it, i will probably try it out.
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I just called them. Once it’s dry , 30min ish, you can weld right over it. No reason to remove or toxic fumes
 
Gibbs fan here. I live in Louisiana, so it gets a bit humid and my build has been going on for over three years now. I've got the new frame sections, firewall, trans tunnel and the whole cage still in bare metal, only being protected by Gibbs.

I'm sure there are lots of products that work. I think the most important part is to not drag your sweaty ass all over what you don't want to rust. Salty sweat will work it's way past anything.
 
gt1guy said:
Gibbs fan here. I live in Louisiana, so it gets a bit humid and my build has been going on for over three years now. I've got the new frame sections, firewall, trans tunnel and the whole cage still in bare metal, only being protected by Gibbs.

I'm sure there are lots of products that work. I think the most important part is to not drag your sweaty ass all over what you don't want to rust. Salty sweat will work it's way past anything.
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Where are you getting Gibbs at in New Iberia? I'm in Carencro and always have a build going on. I just buff off the rust but might be nice to save a step.
 
I let metal on the rack get a little surface rust on it, then this stuff cleans it right up, spray a little on some scotch brite, light scrub, wipe off excess, let sit for 24hrs and it’s ready for paint. Even takes the mill scale shit off DOM.

photo26194.jpg
 
Little demo on some scrap sheet metal.

Wear rubber gloves and don’t get it on concrete.

Also don’t let tube rust on the rack. :flipoff2:

photo26195.jpg
 
Poke said:
What do you put on raw steel to prevent rust during a build? Is there something that is really easy to clean off prior to welding? Wd-40?

I have a chassis in a higher humidity environment.
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I use wd-40. You can weld over it unless its puddled up, works as a good anti spatter too. I live in the desert and a little wd goes a long way. My buggy is over 5 years old and is bare steel still. i scotch bright and wd it a few times a year is all. i hate paint.

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Blase said:
Where are you getting Gibbs at in New Iberia? I'm in Carencro and always have a build going on. I just buff off the rust but might be nice to save a step.
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I buy it online a case at a time. Comes out to around $10 a can.
 
Byro said:
Really? I guess I shouldn’t worry about wiping down tube after going through the bender/notcher, cause I use the shit out of WD.
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Yes really. Ive never lubed my jd2 model 3 bender and we quit lubing the notcher hole saws years ago with no noticeable life expectancy difference with them. Im sure the lube helped but it wasnt worth the mess for a 10$ holesaw.
 
Move to the desert. I’ve had a bare axle housing that I wire wheeled clean in March that’s been sitting in my back yard ever since. No rust at all.
 
YROC FAB said:
Yes really. Ive never lubed my jd2 model 3 bender and we quit lubing the notcher hole saws years ago with no noticeable life expectancy difference with them. Im sure the lube helped but it wasnt worth the mess for a 10$ holesaw.
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I like to give the ally blocks on my JD2 a spray down every now and then. And I’ve found the Lenox hole saws seem to cut way quicker dry and seem to outlast all the others I’ve experimented with.
 
Poke said:
No. I prefer my wheeling to be hard and 4 distinct seasons.
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You’re right. No hard trails here. :homer:I better let the guys at Sand Hollow know their trails are easy.

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Aisin said:
You’re right. No hard trails here. :homer:I better let the guys at Sand Hollow know their trails are easy.
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I had to take a shot at the traction you guys have. Its easy to go from the East to the West and wheel, there is traction. The hammers rocks were cake because the tires bite, its alarming how easy the climbs were compared to the same stuff at Roush, AOAA, Field and Forrest, Gore, etc. Guys coming from the West to the East struggle for the same reason.. traction. That trail on the east would be impossible but out west any shit box zuk can wander up and down it with almost no tread stickies. Cool trails I want to see, yes... harder, not a chance. Challenging in different ways.
 
Poke said:
I had to take a shot at the traction you guys have. Its easy to go from the East to the West and wheel, there is traction. The hammers rocks were cake because the tires bite, its alarming how easy the climbs were compared to the same stuff at Roush, AOAA, Field and Forrest, Gore, etc. Guys coming from the West to the East struggle for the same reason.. traction. That trail on the east would be impossible but out west any shit box zuk can wander up and down it with almost no tread stickies. Cool trails I want to see, yes... harder, not a chance. Challenging in different ways.
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:stirthepot: Oh you’re opening a can of worms there!:grinpimp:
 
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