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Rate Tundra 10.5" rear lockers

Lil'John

Lil'John

Former #278
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
488
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1,048
Loc
Walking to the Rubicon
I'm hoping to get some feedback on the various rear lockers available for the Tundra 10.5". Not interested in limited slip.

I know there is the ARB(RD146) at ~$1100. I'll ignore the added cost of having onboard air for this now. I've had good luck with mine in a D60 that was installed by a competent shop. Routing air lines safely isn't an issue. Are there any gotcha's for the Tundra application?

I know there is the Harrop 99-ELKR13791 at unknown cost. I know that LC guys love them. Are there strength concerns? Was this the electric locker with the engage/disengage issue when going from forward to reverse?

I know there is the Eaton 14232-1 at ~$1300. Are there strength concerns? Was this the electric locker with the engage/disengage issue when going from forward to reverse?

Any rumors of something coming down the pipeline? Lunchlockers?
 
I can comment on the Eaton E locker in another application.

I had the original style Eaton E locker and the strength concerns were very valid. Mine did unlock and re lock going from forward to reverse and I broke that locker several times, it was a piece of shit.

When I went to 1 tons the Dana 60 and 70 Elocker4's had just come out, they were "direct acting" and stayed locked going forward and back. I have had this locker in since June 2017 and it has been problem free on 40s and now 43s as of a few months ago. I am not the craziest throttle happy rock bouncer type but I have a heavy rig and I can directly correlate that they fixed those issues since I have used both lockers. This one is problem free and the old style I had broken numerous times on 35s and 37s.

I looked up that part # for the eaton you listed and it is the new Eaton E locker4 style, not the old garbage.
 
No stock E-Locker on these ?

If you have to run a selectable locker, I'd go ARB. Seen too many E-Lockers break.
 
06h3 Thank you for the feedback. I knew one of the e-lockers had engagement issues.
Bebop said:
No stock E-Locker on these ?

If you have to run a selectable locker, I'd go ARB. Seen too many E-Lockers break.
Click to expand...
From my research, no factory 10.5" locker... it sounded like there was a limited slip available from the factory.

I'm a little bit leery of the factory locker if it is like the 9.5" in FJ80s. I've heard way too many stories of a shaft exploding and the repair basically required cutting the housing apart.:eek:​​​​​​​
 
rattlewagon said:
Helpful thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear...tundras.13670/

I have the factory LSD in my 19 Tundra. It seems to work fine, but I dont really go off road with it other than access roads, and Im only at 20k miles so I dont have a long term opinion yet
Click to expand...

Thanks for the thread. Sadly, it felt like an LSD circle jerk for moderate wheeling:homer:

My rig(s) will be seeing rocks almost exclusively; I'm under 1 hour to Rubicon. I will be seeing snowy roads and with luck snow wheeling with a group.
 
I thought I'd bring this up from the grave for further input on lockers... I'm not interested in LSD.

I still haven't gotten a cost on the Harrop so it might be way over the top on price.

Any rumors of another locker coming out shortly? How about a lunchbox locker?
 
In my 2019 I installed e-lockers front and rear, the front is a Sequoia application and the rear is from Harrop
15K miles on them with zero issues. I went this direction because I didn't want to deal with ARB o-ring issues that I've had in the last few that I've had.

I also installed 5:29's.

The 10.5 e-locker was like 1300 from ECG
 
rockmup said:
In my 2019 I installed e-lockers front and rear, the front is a Sequoia application and the rear is from Harrop
15K miles on them with zero issues. I went this direction because I didn't want to deal with ARB o-ring issues that I've had in the last few that I've had.

I also installed 5:29's.

The 10.5 e-locker was like 1300 from ECG
Click to expand...
Did the Eaton E-locker pop up on your radar? If it did, why did you go Harrop over Eaton?
 
Harrop had an exclusive distribution deal with a distributor here in the states, these clowns wanted 2400 + for the locker. Then it must have expired or they cancelled it because all of a sudden, ECG and others were getting them on the shelf and selling them for 1300. I ordered mine and installed them. Within a month or two Eaton was advertising them as well and calling them an Eaton E-locker.
 
It's surprising to me there still aren't more options for the 10.5"

it's been out for 14 years now. Apparently just not enough demand.
 
Alex123456 said:
It's surprising to me there still aren't more options for the 10.5"

it's been out for 14 years now. Apparently just not enough demand.
Click to expand...

i just dont see a market for a non selectable. if someone is going to 'wheel' a tundra they are overlanding.

also it was discussed in another thread but to consolidate if you want to go to the standard 35sp when using a 10.5 ARB you need to get the side gear kit, ARB 728H031.
 
mobil1syn said:
i just dont see a market for a non selectable. if someone is going to 'wheel' a tundra they are overlanding.

also it was discussed in another thread but to consolidate if you want to go to the standard 35sp when using a 10.5 ARB you need to get the side gear kit, ARB 728H031.
Click to expand...
Are you sure on the part number? My searches are showing it as a d44 "upgrade":
www.justdifferentials.com

ARB728H031

ARB 4x4 Accessories
www.justdifferentials.com
The Tundra ARB whole locker part number is RD146.

I tried calling ARB direct and they were clueless on capability of upgrading side gears to either 35 spline or 40 spline. If the part number is correct, that is close to $500 to get 35 spline shafts. I've found people will spline the "odd" Toyota 36 spline.
 
Lil'John said:
Are you sure on the part number? My searches are showing it as a d44 "upgrade":
www.justdifferentials.com

ARB728H031

ARB 4x4 Accessories
www.justdifferentials.com
The Tundra ARB whole locker part number is RD146.

I tried calling ARB direct and they were clueless on capability of upgrading side gears to either 35 spline or 40 spline. If the part number is correct, that is close to $500 to get 35 spline shafts. I've found people will spline the "odd" Toyota 36 spline.
Click to expand...

ARB is smart and makes certain parts interchangeable, so yes its just the side gears. tim mentioned somewhere else either here or at the other place that 40 spline was pushing the limits of the available material.
 
Sorry to bring back the dead, but I'm wondering about rating the 10.5" overall for a fabricated axle. Granted, I'd be doing an ARB for the locker (just prefer it over electrics), but it seems like Ford 9/10" is really all that's out there for fabbed housings in terms of strongest set ups. Obviously, something like a GearWorks HP or Mega Hi-9 is nice and strong, but also starts at $3600....and maybe a Tundra 10.5" is close to that by the time you pay a crazy $500+ core charge.

So how does the 10.5" compare to a regular 35 spline Ford 9" in terms of strength or even the Toyota 9.5"? The way I see it, for a rear fabbed housing where you don't want the super low pinion of a standard rotation Ford 9" (or can't/don't want to pay for GW/TH9), the 10.5" is likely to be the strongest option available.

There just aren't a lot of drop in 3rds for this type of application. The real limiter may well be what you do up front if running another fabbed housing....HP makes sense...which goes back to Mega or GW....but Mega is limited to 5.40s in ratio and no 5.29s to match the 10.5" rear from GW....so the point may be moot anyway, unless one wanted to run 10.5s f/r.
 
Spend the money for a GW or do a 14 bolt if you're poor.
 
Sean said:
Sorry to bring back the dead, but I'm wondering about rating the 10.5" overall for a fabricated axle. Granted, I'd be doing an ARB for the locker (just prefer it over electrics), but it seems like Ford 9/10" is really all that's out there for fabbed housings in terms of strongest set ups. Obviously, something like a GearWorks HP or Mega Hi-9 is nice and strong, but also starts at $3600....and maybe a Tundra 10.5" is close to that by the time you pay a crazy $500+ core charge.

So how does the 10.5" compare to a regular 35 spline Ford 9" in terms of strength or even the Toyota 9.5"? The way I see it, for a rear fabbed housing where you don't want the super low pinion of a standard rotation Ford 9" (or can't/don't want to pay for GW/TH9), the 10.5" is likely to be the strongest option available.

There just aren't a lot of drop in 3rds for this type of application. The real limiter may well be what you do up front if running another fabbed housing....HP makes sense...which goes back to Mega or GW....but Mega is limited to 5.40s in ratio and no 5.29s to match the 10.5" rear from GW....so the point may be moot anyway, unless one wanted to run 10.5s f/r.
Click to expand...

Slawson ran a 10.5 w/ Air Locker in a Bomber for 3 years, iirc he said that he never had to work on it once. Don't remember whether he ran 2 or 3 KOHs with it.

iirc he built his own housing and said he only lost 3/4" clearance over a 9".
 
Bebop said:
Spend the money for a GW or do a 14 bolt if you're poor.
Click to expand...
And 14B is the obvious answer....provided you want something that isn't a drop out 3rd, but their interchangeability (drop out 3rds) have a lot of advantages.

The question I'm asking is for a rear application: How does the 10.5 Tundra compare to a HP GW "10" running on the coast side of the gear?
 
Sean said:
The question I'm asking is for a rear application: How does the 10.5 Tundra compare to a HP GW "10" running on the coast side of the gear?
Click to expand...
There isn't other test bed that I know of other than the one that lasted for a while in a Bomber.
That said Randy switched to a 10" when he could have kept the Tundra diff.

Do with this info what you want.
 
Sean said:
So how does the 10.5" compare to a regular 35 spline Ford 9" in terms of strength or even the Toyota 9.5"? The way I see it, for a rear fabbed housing where you don't want the super low pinion of a standard rotation Ford 9" (or can't/don't want to pay for GW/TH9), the 10.5" is likely to be the strongest option available.
Click to expand...


if you have a trail rig a 10" with a spool makes the most sense. if you want a selectable locker for a trail rig go all in with portals and minitruck thirds.

math wise the the tundra is 36 spline is "stronger" on paper, but in the real world i dont think its enough to deal with the other hassles associated with the tundra diff.

Tech Tim said:
iirc he built his own housing and said he only lost 3/4" clearance over a 9".
Click to expand...

he ran a diamond
 
Bebop said:
There isn't other test bed that I know of other than the one that lasted for a while in a Bomber.
Click to expand...

That's the only long term beat-down that I'm aware of.

Bebop said:
That said Randy switched to a 10" when he could have kept the Tundra diff.
Click to expand...

Or did he sell that car and the axle went with it?


Sean said:
The question I'm asking is for a rear application: How does the 10.5 Tundra compare to a HP GW "10" running on the coast side of the gear?
Click to expand...

Two very different ponies in that race.

GW 10" is a high pin.
Tundra 10.5" is a low pin.
GW 10" is based of the 9" geometry and is quite a bit smaller.
T10.5" is D70 in size comparison.
GW 10" should be lighter with less rotational mass.
GW 10" starts at what spline count? 1.5" - 35 spl and goes up from there?
T10.5" is 1.45" - 36 spline. Going with an Air Locker, you should be able to swap in 35, 37 & 40 spline for commonality.
GW 10" available gear ratios: 4.57, 4.86, 5.14, 5.43, 5.83, 6.20
T10.5" available gear ratios: 4.10 & 4.30 (OE), 4.88, 5.29

I would say if the GW 10" is in your budget, build it and don't look back.

If you are trying to keep that budget lower, go for the T10.5"
 
mobil1syn said:
if you have a trail rig a 10" with a spool makes the most sense. if you want a selectable locker for a trail rig go all in with portals and minitruck thirds.

math wise the the tundra is 36 spline is "stronger" on paper, but in the real world i dont think its enough to deal with the other hassles associated with the tundra diff.



he ran a diamond
Click to expand...
In the next buggy builds, wife and I both have the 4WS JHF portals and flipped Ford 9" 3rds (haven't bought the 3rds yet, but planning 4.56s and spools up front and ARBs in back).

The 10.5 Tundra is more of a question for potentially a rig that would see street use some...hence the selectable and since ARB has 35 spline side gears for it, I'd probably go that route to get more easily made custom 1.5" shafts.
 
Tech Tim said:
That's the only long term beat-down that I'm aware of.



Or did he sell that car and the axle went with it?




Two very different ponies in that race.

GW 10" is a high pin.
Tundra 10.5" is a low pin.
GW 10" is based of the 9" geometry and is quite a bit smaller.
T10.5" is D70 in size comparison.
GW 10" should be lighter with less rotational mass.
GW 10" starts at what spline count? 1.5" - 35 spl and goes up from there?
T10.5" is 1.45" - 36 spline. Going with an Air Locker, you should be able to swap in 35, 37 & 40 spline for commonality.
GW 10" available gear ratios: 4.57, 4.86, 5.14, 5.43, 5.83, 6.20
T10.5" available gear ratios: 4.10 & 4.30 (OE), 4.88, 5.29

I would say if the GW 10" is in your budget, build it and don't look back.

If you are trying to keep that budget lower, go for the T10.5"
Click to expand...
Good info. I'd read that 40 spline side gears might not fit the ARB for the 10.5".

From what you just said, seems like the LP T10.5 makes more sense in the rear application.....in terms of which would ultimately be stronger in terms of the gears themselves.
 
Bebop said:
If you're doing portals, going with such a large third member doesn't make much sense.
Click to expand...
We don't all have the same requirements or things we prioritize, nor should we.

Plenty of guys go with portals and 9s over Toyota. Toyota 3rds with portals do break (as do 9s to be fair). Guys running them have been known to have to replace them every couple of years (generally R&Ps) though it probably all depends on how hard one wheels it (as well as whether or not they run a spool since the theory is there's more ring gear deflection).

If the be-all-end-all for a particular builder/owner is light weight and clearance (and obviously competition)...then yes, Toyota all the way. However if reliability as well as cost is a bigger factor for someone (myself included), then the Ford 9" makes much more sense. It's only 1/2" loss of ground clearance, higher pinion than the Toyota once flipped, can easily handle a lot more power, is an overall stronger design just b/c of the pinion bearing support (not to mention 35 and 40 spline options), no core charges and brand new very high end castings for the same money as Toyota 3rds and they have longer warranties on the builds with no tire size restrictions. Not to mention, far more gear options.
 
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I was talking about using Tundra diffs in a portal application.
 
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