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Raceline Fake beadlock bolts (corrosion)

IDASHO

Active member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
635
Messages
39
So Im beyond over dealing with the corrosion on the fake beadlock bolts on these Raceline Defender wheels.
They have been on the truck for 6+ year and near 40k, so no surprise the shitty stainless bolts rust.

Since they started rusting, Ive been pulling them off, cleaning them up on the bench grinder (wirewheel) and reinstalling.
I even tried clearcoating a set. They just dont hold up.

So Im wondering....

Think I could just remove them all, without needing a re-balance? :homer:

51496907067_5a68254b74_b.jpg
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Replace them with good bolts? :confused:
Click to expand...
define “good bolts” :flipoff2:

Ive considered some proper stainless bolts, but I honestly have never really liked the look. And its $100+ and nonsense Id just as well avoid if I can.
 
IDASHO said:
define “good bolts” :flipoff2:

Ive considered some proper stainless bolts, but I honestly have never really liked the look. And its $100+ and nonsense Id just as well avoid if I can.
Click to expand...

I guess I don't understand the point of this thread then. I've seen you build some pretty amazing stuff on the old form so I'm a little thrown off by this week ass thread:flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I guess I don't understand the point of this thread then. I've seen you build some pretty amazing stuff on the old form so I'm a little thrown off by this week ass thread:flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Right?? !! :lmao:

Shit I build stays together. Chicken shit rusty fake beadlock wheels, that I chose to run as they were the least ugly high load off the shelf wheels available, drives me nuts.

Id rather remove them than pay for new, or bother making things worse by hitting them with paint that will only fail.

So just tell me if I can remove them without rebalance, or move along. :flipoff2:
 
IDASHO said:
Right?? !! :lmao:

Shit I build stays together. Chicken shit rusty fake beadlock wheels, that I chose to run as they were the least ugly high load off the shelf wheels available, drives me nuts.

Id rather remove them than pay for new, or bother making things worse by hitting them with paint that will only fail.

So just tell me if I can remove them without rebalance, or move along. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Logic says they're equal all the way around, I can't see how it would be out of balance.
 
Last edited:
first, are you positive that they are stainless steel? they might be slightly magnetic, but not as strong as a steel bolt.

Second, deoxidize them in a mild solution of phosphoric acid. 4 parts of hot water to 1 part of this will do fine Klean-Strip 1 Gal. Concrete Etch, Metal Prep and Rust Inhibitor Outdoor Cleaner GKPA30220 - The Home Depot soak for an hour and check them. scrub with a green scotchbrite or brass or stainless wire brush. NOT a steel wire brush...

third, re-passivate with citric acid. Ive never used this stuff Amazon.com but it seems like a couple of tablespoons in a quart of warm water would do good. soak for a few hours, agitating every once in a while.

allow to air dry and lube the threads before you put them back in.
 
jeepnmatt said:
first, are you positive that they are stainless steel? they might be slightly magnetic, but not as strong as a steel bolt.

Second, deoxidize them in a mild solution of phosphoric acid. 4 parts of hot water to 1 part of this will do fine Klean-Strip 1 Gal. Concrete Etch, Metal Prep and Rust Inhibitor Outdoor Cleaner GKPA30220 - The Home Depot soak for an hour and check them. scrub with a green scotchbrite or brass or stainless wire brush. NOT a steel wire brush...

third, re-passivate with citric acid. Ive never used this stuff Amazon.com but it seems like a couple of tablespoons in a quart of warm water would do good. soak for a few hours, agitating every once in a while.

allow to air dry and lube the threads before you put them back in.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. Ill give it a go next time I have a chance.

Raceline claims they are stainless, but likely a very shitty stainless.

racelinewheels.com

RBL-BOLT-SS-24 (Stainless Steel Bolt & Washer -24 Pieces) – Raceline Wheels

Sku: RBL-BOLT-SS (Stainless Steel Bolt & Washer -24 Pieces) FITS RACELINE STREET LOCK SERIES WHEELS 934B, 935B, 935M, 937B, 945B, 946B
racelinewheels.com racelinewheels.com
 
just about all SS bolts are coming from China. We buy thousands a month at work. The usual issue is a non SS fastener mixed in with SS fasteners. We passivate all SS hardware with citric acid when the come in the door. anything zinc-plated will discolor and be easy to pick out.

We just found out that an order of 5000pcs of 10-24 hex nuts had about 50% contamination with 10-32 hex nuts in sealed packages. These were shipped to 3 jobsites and we still had 2000 on the shelf. $300 worth of nuts cost us about $3000 to correct the issue caused by the factory in China.
 
Coming back around to this...
I tried cleaning the bolts up (again) with brass wire wheels. Corrosion still returned...

I recently picked up a cheap 3d printer to handle the task of printing some obsolete clips and such for another project.

Sooo..... Beta testing PETG bolts.... in draft mode and just 65% infill.
A few hundred mile later and so far so good. :homer:
Plastic wont rust, right? :flipoff2:

Cost of filament for this project for all wheels will be just a few dollars.
If it works, Ill reprint them in a metallic filament in higher res, and 100% infill.

53796086296_b617c665a7_c.jpg


53796312348_044925897f_c.jpg


53796404059_81cf1dda3c_c.jpg
 
I'm blown away this is even a thread on a hardcore offroading forum.

What did we become :laughing:





:flipoff2:
 
You must not remember the Jeep dude that logged in to ask how to keep rust off a Hi Lift on a Jeep Hood (old place).
 
Google Nylon Bolts. I think Button head or 12 point would look better anyway. Pretty cheap.

Looks like those wheels have led a rough life. Cheers on that.
MIght be time to just have the whole mess powder or Cerakote Coated.
Choices. Think change.
 
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