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R-12 auto A/C tech in chit chat

orfice tube should go in the condensor where the lower hose connects I think. it will be the same for 12 or 134.
 
V30crewcab said:
orfice tube should go in the condensor where the lower hose connects I think. it will be the same for 12 or 134.
Click to expand...
The original line was split in two and the tube went in the center. The way these '94-up lines are shaped I don't see how the tube would fit - plus, I am not seeing a listing for a '94-up tube. Does a 134A system not use/need one?
 
1000041188.jpg
l assume that it goes in the line circled in yellow.
1000041190.jpg
 
M92PV4U said:
1000041188.jpg
l assume that it goes in the line circled in yellow.
1000041190.jpg
Click to expand...
Well, for crying out loud. I checked for one on Amazon and did not find a listing. Changed search terms and there 'tis.

Now, where the heck does it go? Into the evaporator?
 
Looking at ordering this one:


Now, what about the '94-up o-rings? Will they work with R-12 lube?
 
M92PV4U said:
1714702417610.png
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Those sneaky devils. The one place I didn't look (parts are strewn all over my living room). They saved the cost of the prior 2-piece line.

Will these 134A o-rings be ok with R12 and R12 oil?
 
BIG-O said:
I used can duster with Pag oil in my 85 4runner. 4 cans for $11 from Walmart. R152A, very similar pressures to R12.
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I ended up having to buy a new compressor and going with 134A. The compressor kept leaking at the shaft seal. Chaged it twice! The duster had way too high of head pressure for a clutch fan. Guess I could have added an electric fan. Oh well. It was a fun project.
 
BIG-O said:
I ended up having to buy a new compressor and going with 134A. The compressor kept leaking at the shaft seal. Chaged it twice! The duster had way too high of head pressure for a clutch fan. Guess I could have added an electric fan. Oh well. It was a fun project.
Click to expand...

Doesn't R152A run at lower pressures?
 
Chkn said:
Use R152a aka keyboard duster.
Cheaper than both R134 and R12 and has great output. I used it in my Landcruiser that had been converted from R12 to R134a and it worked awesome.
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I actually have a bunch of duster cans on hand. But I have plenty of R12 and, with nothing else to that uses it, will go with that - at least for now.
 
I did duster in an unmodified r12 setup and it worked well. Somewhere on the Internet is a conversion chart for the right pressures.
For when you run out of r12.
Or decide to sell r12 to some sucker for way too much money.
 
Can you still get cheap r12 gauges? Or use adaptors on r134 gauges? The 67 has factory ac and a bit of a charge, i have a stash of r12, wanting to top it off and see what it does

Maybe the thread is the same, ioughtta check
 
Projectjunkie said:
Can you still get cheap r12 gauges? Or use adaptors on r134 gauges? The 67 has factory ac and a bit of a charge, i have a stash of r12, wanting to top it off and see what it does

Maybe the thread is the same, ioughtta check
Click to expand...
I put it in by weight or just keep adding it until the ac blows cold.
Not exactly cheap... but the ones that I bought.
www.jbtools.com

Yellow Jacket Series 41 Manifold, 3-1/8" Gauges, 60" Hoses, R-12/22/134A (42007)

Shop the Yellow Jacket 42007 Series 41 Manifold with precision 3-1/8" gauges and 60" hoses for R-12/22/134A. Durable, accurate, essential for HVAC professionals.
www.jbtools.com www.jbtools.com
 
M92PV4U said:
I put it in by weight or just keep adding it until the ac blows cold.
Not exactly cheap... but the ones that I bought.
www.jbtools.com

Yellow Jacket Series 41 Manifold, 3-1/8" Gauges, 60" Hoses, R-12/22/134A (42007)

Shop the Yellow Jacket 42007 Series 41 Manifold with precision 3-1/8" gauges and 60" hoses for R-12/22/134A. Durable, accurate, essential for HVAC professionals.
www.jbtools.com www.jbtools.com
Click to expand...
I've got 134 gauges, just never actually checked to see if the threads match:laughing:

My r12/22 gauges died 5 plus years ago and never needed them since...

I guess I've got an afternoon project
 
Projectjunkie said:
Can you still get cheap r12 gauges? Or use adaptors on r134 gauges? The 67 has factory ac and a bit of a charge, i have a stash of r12, wanting to top it off and see what it does

Maybe the thread is the same, ioughtta check
Click to expand...

Put adapters on the ports (any store has them very cheap) and use your R134 gauges.
 
We discussed refrigerant oil earlier in the thread. Would like to confirm the recommendation especially given that previously we were considering different refrigerant gasses and now we know this will be a straight R12 system.

Is this the correct oil for me to use? And if not, what would be better?

IMG_7866.JPEG
 
POE's fine with both 12 and 134

it does attract water and get acidic though, where PAG and mineral oil don't really do that
which is to say "it's the right oil, but I'd probably throw out that old bottle and buy a fresh one"
 
[486] said:
POE's fine with both 12 and 134

it does attract water and get acidic though, where PAG and mineral oil don't really do that
which is to say "it's the right oil, but I'd probably throw out that old bottle and buy a fresh one"
Click to expand...
Should I then just get PAG? Or use plain old mineral oil?

EDIT: I ordered a new bottle of mineral oil.
 
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Turns out the '94-up parts are NG. Too many differences in how everything connects to fit smoothly without relocating coolant overflow tank, accumulator, and cutting passenger headlight housing (my truck has 4 sealed beams).

Have to reuse the old HP line as the orifice tube mounts in the middle (2 piece line) as opposed to the orifice tube in the condenser in the '94-up. The design change saved the cheap bastards a few cents.

The shop manual posted by M92 earlier in the thread says 8 oz of oil and 6 oz of oil. Which is it?
 
plym49.2 said:
Turns out the '94-up parts are NG. Too many differences in how everything connects to fit smoothly without relocating coolant overflow tank, accumulator, and cutting passenger headlight housing (my truck has 4 sealed beams).

Have to reuse the old HP line as the orifice tube mounts in the middle (2 piece line) as opposed to the orifice tube in the condenser in the '94-up. The design change saved the cheap bastards a few cents.

The shop manual posted by M92 earlier in the thread says 8 oz of oil and 6 oz of oil. Which is it?
Click to expand...
oil amount is really tricky, just because of how it pools basically everywhere so you can't exactly drain it all out to get a repeatable baseline

if you flush the system with solvent and really drain the compressor out good (especially if it is brand new)
add 6oz

Too much and it won't cool right, ran into that with my VW, where I'd add an ounce or so every time I'd top it up, eventually there was too much and it wouldn't cool until I yanked the compressor and dumped some out
 
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