Project twin chevy spinoff

[Stuck]

Yeah its cut theres already wires run to it. The 2000-02 had the rear speaker the 03 and up had the under console sub.

What is a dual 2ohm sub? I found a 8" shallow mount (needed for the stock enclosure) on amazon. I dont know if its a chicom brand or a legit company with a name like skar.

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-VD-8-D4Subwoofer/dp/B016IH8JSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_sspa?crid=1GE2T024T6L5P&keywords=5%2Bchannel%2Bamp%2Band%2Bcomponent%2Bspeakers&qid=1653679065&sprefix=5%2Bchannel%2Bamp%2Band%2Bcomponent%2Bspeakers%2B%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-7-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUMDFWSUtYRFBTWk8mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyMDQ1ODkyWVlaWjVFRDhLT1BKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMzIyNTUyNjMzR1NTVUdZVURQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

 

[Stuck]

So from the google it looks (as you said) like I should get a 1 ohm stable amp and a dual 2ohm sub and wire it in parallel to get 1 ohm. Im assuming that means its a dual channel (2 inputs) sub and you wire both to each of the outputs on the amp. Or did I misunderstand what they were talking about?

 

[xr-nut]

So from the google it looks (as you said) like I should get a 1 ohm stable amp and a dual 2ohm sub and wire it in parallel to get 1 ohm. Im assuming that means its a dual channel (2 inputs) sub and you wire both to each of the outputs on the amp. Or did I misunderstand what they were talking about?

Yes you have it right on the sub wiring. That little 8 you found will likely do just what you want. Now find a similarly cheap 1ohm mono channel and you are set. The link I posted shows the wire set up also if you scroll down.

 

[Chevy_man]

So from the google it looks (as you said) like I should get a 1 ohm stable amp and a dual 2ohm sub and wire it in parallel to get 1 ohm. Im assuming that means its a dual channel (2 inputs) sub and you wire both to each of the outputs on the amp. Or did I misunderstand what they were talking about?

Wire + to + on the Sub and run to the + on the amp
Now wire - to - on the sub and run to the - on the amp.

Now you have a 1 ohm load on your amp, and get the most bang for your buck. Check out the power output vs ohm load on this little guy. Goes from 150 to 400w by reducing the load.

Kicker 46CXA400.1T

CX Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 400 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

www.crutchfield.com

 

[Stuck]

Alright one more thing. After I replace the component speakers (or go biaxial) should I turn the bass down on the amp I have now using the pots on top to eliminate any low frequencys going to the mids and tweets? Or when I turn on the bass output on the head unit will that eliminate them from the other channels? That may be part of what killed the ones I have. It used to put out some decent bass now im going to double check everything when I get some time. Im out of town again for the week so I wont get to it till the weekend at the earliest.

 

[Chevy_man]

Alright one more thing. After I replace the component speakers (or go biaxial) should I turn the bass down on the amp I have now using the pots on top to eliminate any low frequencys going to the mids and tweets? Or when I turn on the bass output on the head unit will that eliminate them from the other channels? That may be part of what killed the ones I have. It used to put out some decent bass now im going to double check everything when I get some time. Im out of town again for the week so I wont get to it till the weekend at the earliest.

I would start by turning the bass boost all the way off, and dialing the low pass crossover dials down until the speakers start distorting and go back up slightly.

When you get a sub going then you can tune them all in again depending on the response and how they blend together.

 

[Stuck]

Cool! Thank you all for the help and replys. That should get me started this weekend. Then when I fuck it all up Ill post more questions on how to unfuck my fuckery.

 

[Stuck]

Well got to it this weekend. I ordered new mid range, tweeters and crossovers because I wasnt sure what was going to be the problem. I skipped the amp and sub for now. Took all the door panels off pulled the mids and lo and behold whoever did the install did it halfassed using crimp connectors and some of the factory wiring and some corrossion for good measure. The good news is all of the speakers are good as are the crossovers.

Instead of pulling the interior panels and running quality Speaker Wire from the amp to the crossover they ran SW to the Factory Wire going into the door. Then ran SW from the FW into the crossover, SW out and then crimped it back onto the FW connecting to the speakers because of the speaker connections on the FW wire Im guessing. Fucking retarded. The SW to FW crimp on the mid range speaker positive wire on 3 of the doors was completely corroded through, hence no mid range. The "good" door still had a lot of corrosion but wasnt broken off.

Since I wasnt planning for this level of fuckery I replace the wiring from the CO to the Spkr. Everything now works as it should. Im going to send the speakers back and order all new wiring, connectors, a mono amp and sub. Once I get them Ill take the door panels off again run all new wires into the doors the way it should have been done and Ill wire in the amp and sub.

One more question. Is a 4 channel amp and mono amp better than a 5 channel? Can you get a five channel that the sub channel is 1 ohm stable? I really dont want to waste more storage space under the seats with another seperate sub if I dont need to. Plus I would avoid running more power cables.