Build Project: Midnight Panic

SLOWPOKE693 said:
Wut???
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at 30 mph the tire is only rotating 106 Ish times per minute.

Based on 60” tire size number pulled out my butt.

What’s been your highest speed?
 
I really haven’t done much on this project, the weather here in northern NV has been really nice for “winter” so I’ve been working outside & hauling more junk home,
MP has just been sitting in the shop with its new shoes on,
IMG_3415.jpeg


I did put together a spare transmission last days off, so now I have a full blown spare,
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And critical measuring on engine #3 has begun so,,,, assembly on that will probably take place before spring time.
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And of course I like to cycle fuel & oil through things every couple weeks.


 
Skipped_Link said:
And of course I like to cycle fuel & oil through things every couple weeks.
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Idling, it's like a huge friendly dog wagging its tail, just one whim away from bursting into . . . violence of action :laughing:

The "little" pop of blue on the outer rings really tied the whole truck together IMHO. Looks awesome :rockon:
 
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I actually spent a good portion of this last days off in the shop with the truck,
Trying to wrap up the last of the “tech rules” that need met,
First,,,& really not that critical, was a lexan cover over each battery, the purpose is to keep something from possible touching both posts & arcing / shorting the batteries,
I was running a pair of 950 mca marine batteries with dual posts, getting a cover on these would require a way to space the lexan above all four posts,,,,instead I opted to buy new batteries,
Recently I noticed the newer Ford F-150 uses a battery where the posts are recessed so the do not protrude above the top of the case, so I got two of those in a 760cca AGM flavor,
No pics, but the lexan is simply sandwiched between the battery & the hold down,
With all the musical battery stuff I’ve been doing with yard junk, the marine batteries will be good to have laying around.

Next up was a new fuel cell & steering reservoir,,,,,The custom one off Aluminum fuel cell with integrated hydraulic steering tank worked well, looked great, & fit in the chassis perfect, but,,,,I’ve broken enough aluminum fuel cells just from fuel slapping/splashing, that even this unit being made out of .188 aluminum had me a little concerned,
I first considered filling the tank with Wiffle balls to baffle the movement, (I even bought 12 dozen)
Turns out Wiffle balls are more expensive than you’d think, & 144 balls was less than a 3rd of what I needed,
Soooo, I decided to remove the current setup, & replace it with the typical plastic fuel cell seen in most monster trucks , & a Radial Dynamics monster truck steering reservoir.
The clear-ish fuel cell is easy to get & replace if needed, plus it’s much easier to see the fuel level,
The steering reservoir is also a shelf item, & is advertised as works in about any position without pump cavitation, it is quite expensive, but fortunately I’ve had a working relationship with this company for a while now,,,I build their return to center rear steer parts.
So I reached out & we did a little bartering for this reservoir,

After removing the original setup, I cut out an 1/8” steel tray to set in its place, this is where the new cell & reservoir will mount.
IMG_3723.jpeg

Fitting both components in this same location was a little tricky, but as you can see above, the steering reservoir tucked nicely right in front of the cell,
The tray & associated mounting was pretty strait forward,
Plumbing was however a little more involved,
Starting with fuel, the pickup tube in the cell was a #8 AN it the top with a hose down to the bottom, #8 simply isn’t big enough for Blown alcohol, & a bottom outlet is better for feeding the mechanical pump,
So I started with a #12 bulkhead fitting, cut it down to minimal length, then turned a couple washers out of a piece nylon I had on hand.
IMG_3726.jpeg

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A simple hole in the bottom of the cell & this assembly took care of the pickup,
The original #8 will be repurposed to one of the return lines from the mechanical injection.

Next in line was the fuel filter, if you remember a while back I had added a fuel shutoff valve to the filter housing, this assembly threaded directly onto the aluminum fuel tank outlet (on the front of the tank)
Obviously this wouldn’t work on a plastic cell with the outlet sticking strait out the bottom,
I ended up remote mounting the filter/valve assembly between the cell & the pump,

Back when I built all of the hard line & hose mounting clamps at the back of the chassis, I drilled & tapped the top for 1/4” bolts,
A mount was built to fit two of these holes, on this mount was a small tab & a #12 “football” fitting, (#12 male to male)
IMG_3730.jpeg


The fitting allowed me to attach the filter/valve without modification, (the other side going to the cell pickup via #12 hose.)
The small tab is just a support bolting directly to the filter housing.
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After bolting to the chassis, a couple hoses rounded out the fuel pickup.
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The steering was a little more challenging,
There are 4 ports in the reservoir, a big male #20 AN pickup, a male #12 return, an two female 1/4 pipe bungs, one next to the return fitting, the other on the bottom for a drain.

Male AN is great for hooking hoses up directly, like the pickup, but on my old setup the pressure relief was mounted to the tank using the the fitting in the outlet port of the relief. Then the main return line of the steering system had its own bung/fitting in the tank,

On the new setup I did not feel the 1/4” pipe was big enough for either, so I was going to have to figure out how to return both to tank via the #12 male AN, preferably without remote mounting the relief valve,

After chopping up 3 fittings, a little welding & some threading, I ended up with a #12 female swivel AN to #8 male AN tee’d with a 3/4 male pipe,
Still can’t believe I couldn’t find this at the hardware store.
IMG_3732.jpeg

After threading the 3/4 pipe portion into the relief valve, the swivel threads onto the tank, leaving the #8 male for the return line.

The whole assembly is pretty easy to work on, but it’s not in a very photogenic spot.
IMG_3737.jpeg


The pickup side was much easier, the #20 was larger than any hose or fittings I had here, so I simply adapted it down to #16 with more cutting/welding of fittings.
IMG_3733.jpeg


Turns out I am out of #8 hose, so I had to order a roll, (should be here by next days off) at that time I can build the new return hoses for the fuel system, then the truck will be drivable again.
 
Skipped_Link said:
So I started with a #12 bulkhead fitting, cut it down to minimal length, then turned a couple washers out of a piece nylon I had on hand.
IMG_3726.jpeg

IMG_3728.jpeg
Click to expand...
If I read correctly that those washers are sealing the fitting in the bottom of the fuel cell, I'd avoid nylon since it can go to **** in alcohol. I dunno about methanol, but ethanol can destroy nylon's integrity quickly.

Summit link for Earl's -12 PTFE washers: Earl's Performance 177412ERL Earl's Performance PTFE Washers | Summit Racing
Alternately, if you have a stick of PTFE, you can make as good or better washers.
 
ExWrench said:
If I read correctly that those washers are sealing the fitting in the bottom of the fuel cell, I'd avoid nylon since it can go to **** in alcohol. I dunno about methanol, but ethanol can destroy nylon's integrity quickly.

Summit link for Earl's -12 PTFE washers: Earl's Performance 177412ERL Earl's Performance PTFE Washers | Summit Racing
Alternately, if you have a stick of PTFE, you can make as good or better washers.
Click to expand...

I’m just assuming the material is nylon, (most likely is) google says nylon is ok with methanol, but,,,
The wife is in Reno, I’ll have her pickup a pair & just change them out,
Thanks for the part number,
 
I can't remember the logo but it's something Pittsburgh but the EverStart does not use recycle lead or the company they use. I shouldn't say I can't remember the logo though
 
ExWrench said:
If I read correctly that those washers are sealing the fitting in the bottom of the fuel cell, I'd avoid nylon since it can go to **** in alcohol. I dunno about methanol, but ethanol can destroy nylon's integrity quickly.

Summit link for Earl's -12 PTFE washers: Earl's Performance 177412ERL Earl's Performance PTFE Washers | Summit Racing
Alternately, if you have a stick of PTFE, you can make as good or better washers.
Click to expand...
At the old place, there was a thread about bulk head fittings versus plastic tanks with the bottom drain bulk head fitting, always ending up having seeping/leaking issues. The consensus was that a flat aluminum (ish) outer ring with a thicker nitrile, or butyl, bonded inner seal/ring was the hot ticket. I had saved links on a laptop that now no longer work, so I can't add the details or part numbers. Are the PTFE washers good for people that don't use race fuel, and leave gas in the tank for extended periods of time? Asking for the cheaper fuel cell owners that don't want to catch their junk on fire. Thanks.
 
Mud Rod said:
At the old place, there was a thread about bulk head fittings versus plastic tanks with the bottom drain bulk head fitting, always ending up having seeping/leaking issues. The consensus was that a flat aluminum (ish) outer ring with a thicker nitrile, or butyl, bonded inner seal/ring was the hot ticket. I had saved links on a laptop that now no longer work, so I can't add the details or part numbers. Are the PTFE washers good for people that don't use race fuel, and leave gas in the tank for extended periods of time? Asking for the cheaper fuel cell owners that don't want to catch their junk on fire. Thanks.
Click to expand...
PTFE won't get degraded by anything that should end up in your fuel tank. The only reason PTFE washers might seep after awhile is creep / cold flow of the polymer - this occurs slowly, so occasionally checking and/or snugging up the bulkhead nut should make it good-to-go for a long while.

Bonded nitrile sealing washers (AKA Dowty washers) are a good alternative that won't creep or cold flow, and won't compress since there's a steel washer there.

Random innanep link of an example: RaceFlux Dowty Bonded Sealing Washer, for M18 Threads

That^ should be a ~permanent solution for a bulkhead fitting through a metal tank wall. However, any plastic tank could creep a bit over time, so just check it occasionally & snug the bulkhead nut as needed.

EDIT: Mud Rod - to clarify, I think PTFE washers are best for plastic tanks, and backing them up w/ a stainless or aluminum washer to spread the load is a great idea - actually for either type of sealing washer.
 
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ExWrench said:
PTFE won't get degraded by anything that should end up in your fuel tank. The only reason PTFE washers might seep after awhile is creep / cold flow of the polymer - this occurs slowly, so occasionally checking and/or snugging up the bulkhead nut should make it good-to-go for a long while.

Bonded nitrile sealing washers (AKA Dowty washers) are a good alternative that won't creep or cold flow, and won't compress since there's a steel washer there.

Random innanep link of an example: RaceFlux Dowty Bonded Sealing Washer, for M18 Threads

That^ should be a ~permanent solution for a bulkhead fitting through a metal tank wall. However, any plastic tank could creep a bit over time, so just check it occasionally & snug the bulkhead nut as needed.
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Thank you Wrench, that cleared up a couple questions on my plastic RJS cell. I just use a cheap electric fuel pump, yes I carry a spare, but it needs to pull up 20" from the bottom of the tank. It loses prime occasionally so I have been wanting to gravity feed it and add a shut of valve.

Skipped, any reason for not running a bladder bag? Maybe not required because emergency services at the events?
Make sure you PM Sceep for a phone number before you hit the border of NM.:grinpimp:
 
Mud Rod said:
Thank you Wrench, that cleared up a couple questions on my plastic RJS cell. I just use a cheap electric fuel pump, yes I carry a spare, but it needs to pull up 20" from the bottom of the tank. It loses prime occasionally so I have been wanting to gravity feed it and add a shut of valve.
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/sidetrack

put the pump in the tank where it belongs, pumps push, not pull and then push.

check your vent sizing, if you get a clogged vent you introduce vacuum and that will increase the likelihood of cavitation

/sidetrackover
 
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