Build Project: Midnight Panic

Better follow up that long ass read with pic,
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I bet they’re over 2k after steering & wheel tethers are installed.
 
Can you explain the wheel tethers?
they're a steel cable choker tether that goes between the housing and hub so that when any of those mentioned possible weak points are exposed, the wheel and tire isn't ejected from the truck at speed to run over staff or spectators. Hopefully it stays right with the truck, and if not it is at least slowed down on its way to the wall and not bouncing up into the stands or running down a tunnel.
 
they're a steel cable choker tether that goes between the housing and hub so that when any of those mentioned possible weak points are exposed, the wheel and tire isn't ejected from the truck at speed to run over staff or spectators. Hopefully it stays right with the truck, and if not it is at least slowed down on its way to the wall and not bouncing up into the stands or running down a tunnel.
I think F1 cars have a similar setup too.
 
I watched your video the other week on the axles and it was very intresting. I think you are onto something with the ackerman and it was strange to hear most don't do that.

:smokin:
 
they're a steel cable choker tether that goes between the housing and hub so that when any of those mentioned possible weak points are exposed, the wheel and tire isn't ejected from the truck at speed to run over staff or spectators. Hopefully it stays right with the truck, and if not it is at least slowed down on its way to the wall and not bouncing up into the stands or running down a tunnel.
Yes I got the idea. Just didn't see how spinning wheel + tether worked. So it holds the hub to the axle. Not really the wheel.
 
I think the 60 grit paper has plenty of bite, if had something to carry the debris away & clean the paper would be most beneficial

A pretty rigid setup is needed to do any face work especially that diameter,
I would much rather cut than sand or grind if possible, this was just the quickest option to put together with what I had on hand.

Correct, final assembly, no PC or fancy paint this time around, actually they are getting a light coat of primer & then enough flat black to make them one color,
I’m trying to keep coating build low, PC or base/clear makes it hard to get tools on fasteners that will be getting bolt checked every show.
Also I want something that’s easy to sand or wire wheel off in case welding repairs are needed,
Maybe after these parts have proven themselves I’ll pull them back out, sand blast & apply good paint.
A lot of the guys in the special effects world paint everything with black Steel-it paint. Not only does it look good you can weld through it.

 
Yes I got the idea. Just didn't see how spinning wheel + tether worked. So it holds the hub to the axle. Not really the wheel.
oh that part is kinda crazy. as of 10yr ago when I was around them, all but a couple privateers with an overly complicated plate system just let that tether cable rub on that flange that is the inboard-most part of the rotating hub assembly. I never saw one show much if any wear, I think there must be the perfect balance of length, tension, and lube that it really doesn't catch or drag much. If you think about it, the rotation of the axles and tires is relatively slow due to 66" tires at the speeds usually involved and I guess it just kinda works.
 
A lot of the guys in the special effects world paint everything with black Steel-it paint. Not only does it look good you can weld through it.

The "just don't rust for three takes 4wk from now" crowd is exactly who's recommendation I wanna be buying paint on. :shaking:
 
Most stuff in that industry gets recycled quickly. So they're experts in knowing how to cover up booger welds but not the people who'll know which paint is gonna leave the item in the best shape after it sits in the tree line for 20yr.

I haven't had the best luck with epoxy paints and primers in that regard, not bad, but not great either, which gives me pause regarding those sorts of "goes on thick and covers garbage" product lines.
 
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Semour has a "steel it" knock off now.
At any rate that type of stuff is prime sponsor ship opportunity for you now. YouTube channel etc.

 
What a busy week+
Last week after work I was able to get the rear axle painted,
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Then moved onto the front, a couple hours every evening got front axle parts assembled out to the knuckles, washing / lubricating the 3rd member, then getting it installed along each knuckle & torquing all 20 of the flange bolts,
The evenings were also spent digging out the second set of planetary hubs that were completely assembled from the spindle out, fortunately I had already cleaned up all the planetary parts prior to putting them together & putting them in storage, so all I had to do was disassemble them again, stage the moving bits & clean up the hubs (these wheel hubs still had yellow equipment paint on them,,,,since washing them the first time I've spiced up the parts washer a bit, it'll wash that paint off now) so they were washed again, then setup & tether rings welded to them,
After my Friday at work (actually Monday) I got started on assembling everything from the knuckles out. First day off I finished up the front axle assembly while Allison painted the Pie pans, (planetary covers).
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I had asked her if we should do them in some color? or just make them flat black like the rest of the axles, she thought black would be best, but do them gloss black to contrast & look better inside the wheels, After setting them up outside, Allison went ahead & painted the covers herself.
By the end of the day, both axles were assembled, & painted & even got steering parts installed on the rear, since the paint had been dry for a couple days.
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Day off number 2 started with getting the steering installed on the mostly dry front axle, at this point both were assembled to the same stage,
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Also worth noting, I'm digging the gloss black Pie pans.
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The rest of the morning was spent doing a huge cleanup in the shop, just getting weeks worth the mess & tools cleaned & put away,
Finally the truck did it's last shob bay shuffle on techs.





Then the swap began!
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It turned into a long day, but by about 2:00 AM or so, the t-case brakes & drivelines were removed, the Axletechs were out, & the new hybrid axles were bolted in,
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While I am swapping in the new axles, I am also upgrading all for the link mounting hardware from grade 8 bolt, to L9 fasteners,

With the new axles in place it was time to start sorting out all the needed changes, the biggest ones being brakes & drivelines,

If you go way back in the build, you can see I had both rotors & calipers for the brakes mounted at the t-case/drop box, while I still feel this was a clean setup, it actually made it a PIA to do some some things, like t-case or transmission removal, combine that with the fact the MTRA rule book states at least one brake has to be mounted at the axle, I opted to move both brakes to the pinions,

In some way this was going to be very simple, like plumbing, I had already run all stainless #3 lines down the link bars for actuating the Axletech air lockers, there are no air lockers in my now 21-145 diffs, so all of that plumbing can be repurposed.
The rotors & hats were designed to work with the rockwell style 4 bolt flange, which is what I bought for the 21-145 pinions, so it took very little machine work to move them from the t-case flange right over to the pinion flange,
And then the pinion in the 21-145 had a bolt on bearing assembly, similar to a ord 9" or a 14 bolt. so building a bolt on caliper mount was the cleanest easiest option,
I believe I had mentioned last week, while the rear 3rd/chunk was apart, I got precise measurements & drew up a very nice DXF pic/file of this pinion carrier/bearing assembly, & since I already had the DXF of the t-case caliper mount, I was able to merge the two & draw up a new caliper mount patter that should work perfect using all the parts I already had, (rotors, & calipers) I just needed to fab the mount,
My original plan was to plasma-cam a blank out of 1/2 plate, then set it up in the Bridgeport to drill all the mounting holes in the proper location, then for the caliper mounting bosses, I would drill/ream a "precision" .750 hole each, that way I could build standoffs out of something like 1.25" round stock, & machine a press fit register on the end to fit the .750 locating hole, I could adjust the length of those standoffs to position the depth of the caliper before pressing them into the 1/2" mounting plate, & TIG welding the front & back,
Really strait forward & pretty simple,,,,,,


Then I decided to build them out of billet aluminum instead.
Luckily My Dad had a couple 6"x 6" blocks of 1.5" thick 6061 aluminum he had for another project, so I grabbed those up & figured I'd see what this Shapeoko router table would do.

I actually spent a good bit of the day drawing this part up, creating the 2D DXF in plasma-cam was simple, but getting it into a 3D tool path was a bit more work,
I ended up drawing different stages of the part in Plasma Cam (I'm just more comfortable operating that program) then importing those files into Carbide Create (design software for the Shapeoko)

In short, I drew & imported the files in layers, each layer being a tool path with it's own depth of cut,
I could have fabbed the steel mounts in less time than I had creating the CC tool/cut file.

But eventually I got a block of aluminum on the machine & started making chips.
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It takes a while to do this much cutting, but once you have everything working right, & if you can pull yourself away from just watching the machine, a guy can go do other things & just let this machine make a mess.
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The first mount took a while mostly cause I I wash machining the part out one path or layer at a time, watching & making sure I had the tool file correct, (even a little CNC machine don't care, if you tell it to do something, it does it, right wrong, & if it's wrong, it's bad!

I only had two minor "crashes" both were cause by me messing with **** I should have left alone,
Even on the first part, during long duration tool paths, I would work on other stuff, like the rotor adapters that needed minor machine work to fit the pinion flanges,
Once the first one was done & fitment confirmed, the second block was setup on the table, & the machine pretty much turned loose to do it's thing, the only time I messed with it was when it stopped running for a tool change,
With a finished part in hand I was able to get to work on the rear brakes.
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Pulling the pinion carrier/bearing assembly last week to get exsact measurements paid off big for this part of the project.
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With the caliper mount bolted in place, the pinion flange, rotor, & rotor adapter could be installed, & the caliper bolted on.
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The router table took about 4 hours to cut out each bracket, so even after getting the first setup installed, I was still waiting for the second part, But with a pinion flange installed I could get to work on drive lines.

The drive lines out for the truck were 1550 series attaching to the t-case using the 4 bolt Rockwell style flange, that will remain the same, however, at the Axletech end, they were built using the 8.5c winged style U-jount that bolts directly to the Axletech pinion. So I needed to change out the 8.5c fixed yoke, for a 1550 series one.
I knew this was going to be the case, so a couple months ago I bought a pair of Spicer 1550 weld yokes that would fit the current drive line tube size,
what I didn't know for sure was if the original drive lines were going to be long enough to just change out the weld yokes, or if I was going to have to re-tube them, so I bought a stick of 3.5"x.134 wall drivelines tube as well.

Lucky for me, the amount of tube cut to remove the 8.5c yoke, plus about a 1/2" was perfect to install the 1550 yoke & end up with the proper length,
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By the time the second caliper mount was done, so was the rear drive line,
I finished up Thursday & headed home for a nap a little after 3:00 AM (Friday!)
 
After a quick sleep Allison & I returned to the shop, by then the rear driveline had cooled off from welding, & was ready for assembly & a test fit,
With a little "lift" or height built into the truck now, we did have to grind on the yokes & flanges just a little bit, once any interference was removed, thdriveline was painted, While the rear was drying, all of the same steps above were repeted on the front driveline, (this was actually when the pic above was take)

With all fof the suspension cycling complete for the most part, the kiddo & I re set the shocks, for ride height, & pressure, then rolled the big tires into the shop, cause it was finally time to bolt them on!




It's impossible to get good pics of this thing while in the shop, but I got a couple anyway.
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Yesterday was a pretty exciting evening, but it's back to work today for 5,
This week after work I'll be working on getting the steering & brakes plumed, wheel tethers built, & if there's time, I'll get started on the drive line cages.
 
Well, you've managed to go from a totally badass truck to a totally badass monster truck.

Well done Sir. :beer: I'm just glad you're willing to share the journey.

What's next...............You gonna walk on water.:flipoff2:

With those tires, he may be able to drive on water.

Thinking about it, has this been tried yet at a monster truck event? A long two-foot-deep water-filled trench. Hit at speed and see who makes the furthest before sinking?
 
With those tires, he may be able to drive on water.

Thinking about it, has this been tried yet at a monster truck event? A long two-foot-deep water-filled trench. Hit at speed and see who makes the furthest before sinking?

I want to see monster trucks at a place like Sand Hollow or JV rock crawling. :smokin:
 
But I want to see them Jesus steppin' on top of the water before they drop down.

The wheel speed required for that isn't possible with a monster truck. Lots of drivetrain parts would hit critical speed and explode long before you get 66" tall tires spinning fast enough to do that.
 
The wheel speed required for that isn't possible with a monster truck. Lots of drivetrain parts would hit critical speed and explode long before you get 66" tall tires spinning fast enough to do that.
I dunno, surface area to wieght ratio is pretty good. They shouldn't require as much speed. Dirt bike is 60+ depending on knobbie or paddle. 3 wheeler is much lower.
 
I dunno, surface area to wieght ratio is pretty good. They shouldn't require as much speed. Dirt bike is 60+ depending on knobbie or paddle. 3 wheeler is much lower.

I think he is talking more like the formula hill climbing trucks that skip across water on paddles with a few thousand hp.
 
I think he is talking more like the formula hill climbing trucks that skip across water on paddles with a few thousand hp.
Yes, those things are wild. But they have a higher ground pressure. Need more speed. Also, they are going faster than they need to get up on plane, HP and racing.......
 
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