Build Project: Midnight Panic

Orientation of roll pin?
Strait through the face, I drilled a blind hole strait down right after milling .250 off the back, the roll pin is just keeping the plug from falling in the oil pan, or being pushed out the top.
Knee crank broken:confused::laughing:
No one likes cranking the knee.:flipoff2:
That would absolutely be the best way to do it though!

Even typing out the story I thought, "why didn't I use the quill stop to set the height? run it down to the stop & look at the pressure" :shaking:
 
Orientation of roll pin?
You can see it here when you zoom in.
IMG_4320.jpeg
 
Why the edelbrock heads? My understanding is those castings are out dated compared to the BBF offerings from AFR, Kasse. I understand cylinder head flow is overcome with boost.
 
Why the edelbrock heads? My understanding is those castings are out dated compared to the BBF offerings from AFR, Kasse. I understand cylinder head flow is overcome with boost.
AFR, Kasse (P51, P51D, & SR71) all have a modified valve layout, along with Ford motorsports SCJ head,
This requires a piston with a valve relief dedicated to their respective head,
If I was going to go to that point I would start with an A-head, minimum,

Trick Flow used make two heads in a standard valve layout, the 290, & CNC 325, neither have been produced since Covid shut down whoever was producing their raw castings,
I’ve heard they’ve been trying to bring them back, but their latest casting failed quality tests,
Had these been available I would have bought 2 new sets.
Currently there are two companies that still have standard valve layout aluminum head for the 429/460, that’s Edelbrock, & the Chinese procomp/speedmaster,
I’d prefer to stay made in the US, plus I already had one set since about 2007,
 
I was told by a friend who was trying to buy a TF part for his 408 that it's Edlebrock's foundry who does their castings. Edelbrock started moving the whole foundry operation out of the PRK to someplace like MS, which the shut-down hit mid-stroke. Left them high and dry, squared. I'd think that things would be starting to free up by now, but who knows what pain they introduced into their process with the move. Maybe taking a while to shake all of the barnacles out of the new system.
They probably bought another foundry. Getting permits for a new foundry is a ****ing nightmare. Way easier to buy one for the permit. But even then you can get ****ed, the EPA has their ****s up everyone's ass in the foundry business.
 
Still haven't watched it. I don't expect to be impressed by anything that exceeds industry norms. :flipoff2:
 
Well, as I had assumed, the 3 tracking numbers were in fact 3 boxes of axle shafts from SCS,
38.jpg

39.jpg


I think I spent more time cleaning this week than I did anything else,
The machine room got an extensive scrubbing from top to bottom in preparation for some upcoming engine assembly,
Then my engine consultant dropped off 10 pounds of sodium hydroxide with instructions to just keep adding it to the parts washer until it starts removing paint, :laughing:
6 pounds later that hot water solution was ripping the equipment paint off of Pettibone parts pretty good,
So I just kept tossing parts in the washer, (note the lack of yellow paint in the following pics)

I did end up assembling enough of the front axle that I can get serious about steering setup.
40.jpg

41.jpg


Then I stripped all the paint of the housing that will become the rear axle,
42.jpg


Then after more cleaning, & weld prepping, the second housing is now all flanged up,
43.jpg


Next weekend I will be assisting a fellow monster truck owner/driver with some tire/wheel work, so I'm not sure what I will have to update before the new year, but after the first there will be a lot of action, & hopefully some real progress on this project,
 
A little Pettibone tech this week,
After working on Jerrod Compton’s MT wheels this days off, I was able to get the YouTube videos up to the current state of the axles.



I’m thinking next week I’ll be fully focused on getting one of the short blocks assembled.
 
Are you gonna plate them? I know some teams are build hybrids from scratch to some pretty damn stout units.
These will get quite a bit more material added to them,
The top & front of both housings will be trussed, the rear of all the flanges will be gusseted, & the bottom of the tubes will have additional material added for spindle supports before the housings are all done.
 
A little Pettibone tech this week,
After working on Jerrod Compton’s MT wheels this days off, I was able to get the YouTube videos up to the current state of the axles.

I’m thinking next week I’ll be fully focused on getting one of the short blocks assembled.
That was a damn good video! :beer:
 
Love the video. Very interesting. I’m surprised that you run any caster on the front diff on that kind of machine. I assume you are not running a “load sensitive” steering box. If so, what is the benefit of caster?
 
Love the video. Very interesting. I’m surprised that you run any caster on the front diff on that kind of machine. I assume you are not running a “load sensitive” steering box. If so, what is the benefit of caster?
Most monster truck axles are setup with the pinion being perpendicular to the king pins, (zero caster) I believe that is because they use the same housing front & rear, They are all jigged up & built the same, Then a lot of guys use lower shock mounts that bolt to the housing using the flange/champagne bolts, again, the housings being symmetrical helps simplify that configuration,
Now on a normal-ish vehicle, having the king pins rolled back a bit always seems to help prevent the steer tires from trying to slap left & right, (tank slapper) when components start to show a little wear,
From a performance standpoint I’v always felt that positive caster gives more feel to the steering, less “twitchy”
Does a monster truck need positive caster for better steering performance? I don’t know, but since no one else is worried about it, I bet they don’t know either, so I’m going to see if I can find out,
Another thing I find interesting is no one in the MT world seems to worry about Ackerman, or even know about it from what I’ve seen on most trucks,
I’ll be trying something there as well, when I get that far along.

Neat!

So what are the planetary ratios between the 2?
Both the axletechs & the Pettibones are 3:1 in the planetary,

These axles I’m building will be 16.7:1 overall from the pinion to the wheel.
 
Top Back Refresh