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Project Mayhem - A Build Thread

GLTHFJ60

Stupid is as stupid does
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Member Number
1946
Messages
1,470
Loc
Durham, NC
Moving my tow pig "build" thread from Powerstroke.org to here.
https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/project-mayhem-a-build-thread.1224737/

March 2017:


Hello everyone, PSD newb here, but jumping in with both feet. By posting this thread, I wanted to introduce myself to both contribute to the forum by way of pictures and experience, but also to gain advice for repairs and modifications. With that out of the way, on to the story.

Bought a 2004 F550 (1FDAW56P84ED64322) in Dallas last summer with ~210k miles and drove it back to Durham, NC. Clean carfax, no bed, white (the best color), vinyl interior, ZF-6 transmission. I'm a huge fan of the truck but it has it's fair share of problems. As I learned more about the motor and how to monitor it properly, I learned that the head gaskets were bad. The truck already had an EGR delete and possibly a tune.

Took the plunge today and pulled the cab off so I can do the engine work and some other modifications to prepare for this year's wheeling season. Plan is to put studs in with OEM gaskets, possibly o-ring the head (not positive on that yet, still researching), new OEM oil cooler, Fumoto coolant drain valves, 6.4 starter, new glow plugs, rebuilt injectors, new stand pipes/dummy plugs, new glow plug and injector harnesses, and the list continues. For the body, I'm going to coat the bottom in a lizard skin type product to improve sound deadening. Likely the firewall as well. Frame will be painted with something along the lines of POR15 to help preserve it.

I'll either make or buy a steel flat bed for the truck with a gooseneck hitch to tow my Land Cruiser around!

Excited to be here and excited to have a well running 6.0!!

On the way home:

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Did the blue spring upgrade a while back:

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How she was for a while:

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We have separation!

1jowC-G57Cz5jDvBQnT4vCuYjC8DT4GfM_6LkhkfYJ6_Dy37PL399GZTmXGddSf9G49mZCSQjdWh7jitZuXx0hMpswOXI6wXWaQhwj8XTiD6K9hoPl4bhDQvHK3cp7Bx7k_245cVec__mjTdCsz_cfT7DSE1XmGQpXiKXR3c7MdKGN5w_naD8lxiC4bW-VmUaa-8EOqMPlWG5ZFeSDa4q6zZeHfHHtVAvSY2mhAJya1fAPnV1bh965beKeiWxOY0SXofZabHSWqMdmfqpGTrCBBKf6XSHY5ZmDL8_XWCPoJrk3CImlmdZL6Tx027-EdLspk7q867kFDFnyYKqNiLlHdbpXrW9kMxzemHpaoXb9EVgWMpJBltyf9Jd5jrENjJfajGGWYy5Je-BZKjC2XUCYPHkBg8UrG4BfaQzse1yLv6zfLhbq4und8BwtA84sTjuwxxfBYz3wOEZuwc9BOPDmkHghiWV9UOk44FV8UxXcd51obXrx18vL3FPPd_FVxr9JZ5mFZ9HDddN8gbajwtzTT22xTyU42UeGvpVT2D5a83X7zmv_n0YACoLArO7LYLi71LeXOl8Ya_aEXlUmG6J4clfCZerh0L6V1mbLDpZj_ibh5-9YTw5A=w1089-h808-no


Fairly certain that the 550 rolling chassis weighed more than my buddy's Duramax :grin:

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More to come.

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Last edited:
Before pressure washing:

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After:

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Still trying to figure out if this is an early or a late engine. I'm leaning towards late due to the IPR sensor being in the PS valve cover, but I'm not sure if that's a definite measure. Oil rails should tell me.

Found some interesting stickers under the grime. Was hoping the engine serial number would tell me but I can't figure out how to look up any info on this motor by serial number. Cummins makes this easy with QuickServe. Do we have an equivalent?


z3Wo7ira4y_KTYS2MhpfBxrrqJoBahXTMjhsfqB_iCsHM8OWy5w4u3zm64P04_apUKE95BBSB-LwDwuohB2Niz-R3UpOpepZ7Q-WskmIwqB-1y5hlrl2JtuZFGukGFuxb1Ue2zze_TpkMknSiGs3DHkvAYWxLTt_k6uKNi4XIGQcTpBMjOaJjwcqWSHm5OhoGdMbSraddy3GDoeu0GhEBJh8PpTpqN1umunpYqgEaBi7XG_tsOAzwIMwrKJDX2KpQ5NvsVIYqP2Bd7FQ59ZphW2xZtms0MvtkB1HIm_ExQzrAZllm90JoBbooWiqP8Qjd2bxZXGpciv5kum4OBzonzKh2Ptu_XhCIgmGL154cOki68kIOAXd_LJt33k7cW0D8pFXEUq5cfX27m-__qkTrJPZFYfeWZ6uxDa7Whv-brvYTWFIOcmbHcMANMtLhstLZ3u2LgzO1uMN5hM5Wm4mPOJxN1SpELUtWrgND1CdyK8gTU_xZnLj860p73irRIFWKVKaW8LRdmsg_LXS1fPssy3E_G4g9dDQK_bOPZFanx3yRPUtIqxHvDYG-7ZhRLjdkjk5b9GzUXHJtkQoomdSyFvaGtU-wOcwK3TRMKZFGi7jgb0RaNkuVw=w2699-h2003-no


SMIIypx-tr0nGhkpINGbb2PyBvP9B6M-KPFd-icR2Yzq7Q6qpZEBeQnwgKyaZp8k5_vEVfHlUFOIuOwD5CNTht1F3FyO9eYj6kiPMSX7LziQ1jWkpvLEaiJxWgGq0gnSyIcHNO3P-68_VYtal_VWQPMOmpP7YWxjF-DRWSeUapuvP3uCJDKxlrK8qLuwE1wnzUqGyKrt_94XnURHK_rL4YA-mvgVab51ev6ISokwl655oCDMtaCkcCiE3Obxu3ylwDPqjRQVbXVLzK0K9ln6lM0iKLof4kvnh7IesG9JDdSWRbHfhQyLyV00S4ykZEFIIJ3HHok71N3XWLjPYAiQ6D2SUKdsZH6MCbDd69J1RKdRiOV43TKcK4dcufOdM0_SQTpYPsxFda61djPFG7CD7Hn5r3sCPGw3M-BnstKLQ3G2TcG-EMkJLIdsYBnRKCazm7tAFyzhz7rFq-EkEgkeUkt1piuJ2ZOgXV6Dsx5fHe4OAMLP5-IoVN-QMmPKmacSOLAY7el6g6h7nqPDOEDssnZeuGbz-WreQfh7oq1xMU3uJbldWqB228VzPaP0XuA7W-oh1CHDyJ5t620mIpGdDdFe7ZKfjhC_xmoJBb3gkvEkBb6n53VQ7A=w2699-h2003-no


At about 23' overall length, this thing barely fits in the garage!! I plan to have the tear down done tonight:

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March 29 2017:

Got my 6.0 torn down last night and it looks good! Block is perfectly fine, no water jacket corrosion. I saw a few spots on the MLS head gaskets that could have been the HG leak, but it's hard to tell and the leak could have been inbetween the layers as well. Like a dope, I didn't get any close-up pictures of the block mating surface, but I did get pictures of a few cylinders showing the cross-hatch marks from the last time it was honed. I love diesel engines. Block is certified good to go :bounce:

This thing has definitely been apart before, based on the EGR delete, updated stand pipes, updated oil feed and drain lines, newer glow plugs, etc. It's been a while though, found a broken injector connector, a few broken glow plug connectors, harness not restrained in the head in a few places, etc. If the head gaskets have been replaced once, I'm assuming it was years ago and was likely at a dealer, because all the right updated parts were used but they used head bolts instead of upgrading to ARP studs.

Other oddities, this engine has the later style ICP sensor on the injector oil rail, has the later style fuel regulator, later style injector oil rails, later style glow plugs and pistons, but has the early style HPOP and also has the EGR throttle plate. Doesn't make sense.

I also plan to delete the second alternator because it's cheaper to do that than to buy a new serpentine belt for it
yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7


Either way, will get my parts order together, get these heads off to be reworked and send the injectors off for servicing. Would appreciate advice on this list to make sure I'm not missing anything. I spent a number of hours reading all of the FAQs and build threads, so I think this is all I need, but I would love for a few ORG members to double-check:

Amazon:
Fumoto F108N for coolant block drains
250-4202 -ARP Head Studs
100-9910 -ARP assembly lubricant
ZXED1 Concentrate coolant
6c3z 9448(x2) - exhaust manifold gaskets
W302472(x2) W303659(x4) - 6.4 banjo bolts and washers
3C3Z-9H529-A -IPR screen
w302908(x2) -dummy plugs
3C3Z-9T514-AG - Turbo mounting hardware
3C3Z 6051 CB(x2) -Head gaskets (with updated stand pipes)
4C3Z 12A342 AA(x8) -glow plugs
4C2Z 12A690 BA and 4C2Z 12A690 AB-glow plug harness
6C3Z8A080B - dgas bottle
4C4Z 8575 AA - Thermostat
6.4 starter
Royal Purple Synthetic ATF for the ZF-6
new DGAS bottle
new AC Drier

Not necessary but "while I'm in there":

MRBP FAL2313 Turbo up pipe (truck has stock up-pipe)
MBRP S6240AL full turbo-back exhaust
Banks 42751 High-Ram Intake System (to eliminate the EGR throttle plate)

From iprresearch.com
3rd gen EGR delete kit - comes with the following
- 3C3Z-6A642-CA -Oil cooler and o-rings/gaskets/screen
- 3C3Z-9433-BE -Intake manifold gaskets
new coolant full flow filter
(maybe) turbo unison ring
(maybe) compressor housing o-ring



In thanks for the parts list advice, here are copious tear-down pics:

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What is the name for the rubber hose attached to the intake manifold in the below pic? It tore on disassembly so it will need to be replaced.

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In researching longevity, I'm reading a lot of reports (maybe just opinions) that o-ringed heads are not good for daily driver use. Is this the case or are o-rings now considered appropriate for daily driver use?


Re-Replacing Head gaskets and ARP studs with o-ring heads - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

New Heads....O-ring or OEM Reman? - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

This thread talks about having the block machined for o-rings specifically, not just for fire rings, then opinions of guys with o-ringed heads saying that they'd pass if given the opportunity again:

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...g-heads-2.html

More info, saying that they do o-ringed heads with each rebuild, one guy with "8 years" on his o-ringed heads:

If you have o-ringed heads, come in here... Which studs are you running? - PowerStrokeArmy

Another opinion saying that o-rings are good for daily driver use (Ha, the forum software won't let me link to diesel bombers):

https://www.*************.com/5-9l-24v-performance/115290-o-ring-heads.html

More people saying it's not needed:

O RING THE HEADS? - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
Decided to go with the o-ringed heads. Shipped them off to Asheville Engine Rebuilders - Home this morning. Heads magnafluxed, pressure checked, flattened, special valve job for "50% more flow over stock", o-rings and shipping back to me for $1290 with tax. Shipping out there cost $160. Much cheaper than UCF, Asheville Engine is relatively local to me and I've read nothing but good things about them.

Shipped injectors off to Warren Diesel mid last week. Going with 155cc injectors and a tuner, with street, tow and hot street tunes. Getting new connectors and the "New" option described in the link below.

https://www.warrendiesel.com/product...sel-injectors/

I put this list in another thread for another user, so I'll put it here as well. Sum total of my notes and research for what to do for the bulletproof operation:

6.0L Tech Intro Manual:
- Powerstroke 6.0L Technical Intro Manual
Bulletproof PDF Instructions:
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...tproofing.html
Good write-up:
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...-write-up.html
Another good write-up:
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...-6-0l-psd.html

6.0 Parts Lists:
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...rnational.html

Misc Parts Lists:
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...part-list.html

6.4 starter - must-do upgrade

flush coolant prior to disassembly
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...ing-6-0-a.html
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...-write-up.html

rotella ELC coolant - coolant to use after install is done

fumoto coolant drain valves - makes future drains easier and cleaner - must-do when removing the starter

Turbo and oil cooler removal write-up:
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...les-notes.html

Turbo rebuild kit:
- 4C4Z-9V424-AA - garrett GT3782VA kit
- 3C3Z-9T514-AG - turbo mounting hardware
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...6-0-turbo.html
- upgraded oil feed (have return)

Convert dual alternator to single:
- http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...tech-file.html


Send injectors to:
www.warrendiesel.com/

Amazon:
Fumoto F108N for coolant block drains
250-4202 -ARP Head Studs
100-9910 -ARP assembly lubricant
ZXED1 Concentrate coolant
MRBP FAL2313 Turbo up pipes
6c3z 9448(x2) - exhaust manifold gaskets
W302472(x2) W303659(x4) - 6.4 banjo bolts and washers
3C3Z-9H529-A -IPR screen
w302908(x2) -dummy plugs
3C3Z-9T514-AG - Turbo mounting hardware
3C3Z 6051 CB(x2) -Head gaskets (with updated stand pipes)
4C3Z 12A342 AA(x8) -glow plugs
4C2Z 12A690 BA and 4C2Z 12A690 AB-glow plug harness
6C3Z8A080B - dgas bottle
4C4Z 8575 AA - Thermostat
6.4 starter

www.iprresearch.com
new EGR delete kit
- 3C3Z-6A642-CA -Oil cooler and o-rings/gaskets/screen
- 3C3Z-9433-BE -Intake manifold gaskets
new coolant full flow filter
turbo unison ring
compressor housing o-ring

Saved for later:
4C4Z-9V424-AA - garrett GT3782VA rebuild kit
3C3Z 9T516 A - turbo oil feed
4C3Z-9B246-F -STC update fitting




AC Drier
headlights
grill

Likely not needed, but open to consideration:
4C3Z 6564 AA(x6) - new intake and exhaust rockers
8c3z 6565 b - push rods (x16)
3C3Z 9229 AA(x8) -Injector o-ring kits ***don't need if injectors are sent to jesse warren)



-5 Gallons of oil (yes, I know these truck only have a 15qt pan, be patient)
-Oil filter
-Fuel filters
-If you have extra money, plan to have your heads fire-ringed
 
Here's what Rob sent me about the new heads:

Here is the answer I got. You don't have to worry about paying a core charge because we have these heads here to give them.

Early 6.0 $1081.44 each plus $250.00 core each

Late 6.0 $1092.21 each plus $250.00 core each.

I replied:

Rob,

I've got the early heads (18mm dowels) correct?

Ok, so rounding up to 2200 for a new set of heads, I've already paid you $1290, totaling $3490. You're saying you can ship me a set of brand new Ford OEM heads, with o-rings installed, for another $1700, totaling $2990, correct?

Rob then replied back:

What I'm saying is, you buy the heads from the dealership near our shop at what we would pay for them and we will O-ring them for $700. plus $50.75 tax. That will give you a refund of $539.25. Shipping the finished heads to you will come out of the $539.25 so you will get what's left of that.

Rob

My last reply 15 minutes ago:

Rob,

I just called a second ago and got voicemail. I need to talk to you to understand how this is going to work, so please call me back. It'll take just a few minutes of your time, then I can stop bugging you via email. My cell is 919-371-xxxx.




He hasn't given me the name of the dealership and has said they're now charging me for shipping the finished heads which was originally included in the $1290 I sent them. It's starting to seem like they won't return my calls, but they could just be busy. Waiting to hear back.
 
IPR screen was clean, but it got replaced anyway. Fumoto coolant drain valves and a 6.4 starter went in today as well.

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6.4 starter is on the top. No nose coming out of the bendix, but otherwise looks very similar. My 6.4 starter is a reman Ford starter, no clue what the old one was.

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Spent a lot of time cleaning everything up and organizing. Have a broken bolt in the PS rocker box that I couldn't extract so I'll need to get a new rocker box :/

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This is my first time prepping for a MLS style gasket. Used sharp razor gasket scrapers, a green scotch brite pad and a 120grit sanding cup. The surface is flat and clean, with the discoloration and slight rust pitting around the water jacket areas. I would call this good, but figured I'd run it by y'all to make sure I'm good before I put the new heads on!

Sanding cup like this:

51FkrAKzD1L.jpg


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Warren Diesel 155cc injectors came in the other day. Heads should be here later today, then I can get moving on this damn project again.

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April 2017:

Did some more work on the block. This is how it will be assembled:

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Wanna see what $3000 looks like?

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IPRResearch HPOP screen installed and oil cooler assembly resealed, then installed.

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Then some bad news. Turns out that Asheville Engine ordered and machined 20mm dowel (commonized) heads but I've got a pre-commonized motor. That means I need to order injector hold-down clamps and new head gaskets. **** me. Will this ever end?

Also, Asheville Engine sent me a set of rocker boxes that don't match the heads, nor do they match the old rocker boxes, which means there are at least three different rocker box designs. The locating dowels for the rocker box only fits on one side and due to the different offset of the small head bolts, the rocker boxes won't bolt on.

This is the rocker box that came off my original motor. Note the four bolt holes along the top of the frame inside the gasket and the two outer ones have dowels in them. This rocker box appears to work just fine with original and new heads. The new heads have a few small bolts eliminated but that's fine.

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These are the rocker boxes that Asheville Engine sent. Note how the same four bolt holes are now different sizes and offsets. The dowel fits in the left most hole, but not in the far right hole, nor does the far right hole line up with the head:

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Does anyone have a spare rocker box that matches the first rocker box picture above? I'll pay good money to have it sent to me ASAP.
 
This is the casting number for the brand new OEM ford heads. Apparently the new heads that are produced these days have much different casting numbers than before:

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These injector hold-downs are correct for the heads I have according to Rob @ Asheville Engine:

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Head gaskets from Keith should be here today, so the heads should be going on tonight. Fingers crossed!
 
It's been a flurry of wrenching the past few days. IPRResearch EGR Delete still hasn't come in so I got done what I could:

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Finally back home to finish up:

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IPRResearch EGR Delete finally came in so I could get real work done. Please scroll to the bottom to the second to last pic and give me a hand with the question. Need to find the starter wire to connect it to the body harness.

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Stripped this bolt in the oil cooler so I did a helicoil and was careful to clean up my shavings. Worked beautifully.

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The turbo is a ***** to install. Did not enjoy that at all.

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Single alt conversion:

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I believe this is the starter wire, not sure how I missed it when connecting everything up. Where does this wire come out of the engine harness? A picture would help me immensely.



I need to make a loopback plug for this connector for the single alternator conversion via this thread:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...tech-file.html

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Thanks Zach an thanks trife, appreciate the help you've given me along the way! Certainly feels good.

Brought her to work today:

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May 8th 2017:

This truck won't spin tires, but it's definitely fast
yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7


Picking up my new-to-me flatbed tomorrow! $1600 cash, thought that was a good deal.

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Got my CM truck bed installed this past weekend. Need to replace the rear end fluid and the glow plugs (kicking myself for not buying them before) then I'm calling this done (for now).

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May 22nd 2017:

Towed my land cruiser on a roadtrip to TN this weekend. Ferd did very well! Had a weird issue, where I'd be towing up a mountain 2500-2750rpm, foot in the throttle, and the engine would cut out. It'd feel like I lifted my foot off of the throttle, but I hadn't. Didn't happen on flat or even mild grades, just *some* long mountain passes. When this wouljd happen, I'd be able to lift the throttle and step back in it then keep going as normal. This symptom happened 4 different times during my trip. OBD2 with torque app showed P0148 as the new code and what was weird is that the OBD metric "seconds since engine on" would reset each time this happens. The CEL flashes once then stays off. P0148 could be bad PCM, bad FICM, bad fuel, but the complete engine management reset makes me think that this isn't just bad fuel.

Thoughts? The times this happened were mostly at night so I can't tell if there was excess smoke.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/911...tml#post771849


Here's how she looked, 18k gross weight according to the scales. Love how she tows, very smooth.

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November 9th 2017:

Less than 6 months since bulletproofing and a drunk driver pulls out in front of me
yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
. First estimate is $8267.50 plus whatever it takes to straighten the frame out. Hoping she isn't totaled, F450/550 crew cabs with a 6.0 and ZF-6 are hard to find.

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-D58hp3XMrym2IFqVxLDi-A-KGVCJJAw_BqCP7OJRBWOqe5IEjWSkVXaxD5a7VrQMf8GRNDy6w_P6c1MOEIfg7eehB5MxXt7bV9KOF_dl2txRsXH1sKBVo0vxUhJfRJ3A_XK4fRMbRSwd2Mjezk9SrR4QMxAaafqNQltOzemU8umBV4L7CJTItW6r2dGmH8CgVa_qakFDxuScJbbIUJbhN10xFKEuF3q6Q2Hc_Svm5YZPeVxag0JeJJ3SIOTZp34WlKtIPy9MEsyfGpFKWIoOLlpwmfn-XaBWBFsbJyUc4PeL9GGWnb-gJ9BtSE9AcpcdcUAPOUxXtkYdABypoFKPgAgbH0qQtJ95Of-AmNgS4kWCvKZB2cjHrgdYxomkXOv38q0CAoxfePsWjg68yLBzTJq9w4OmBZ39Gy4eEfwFpeohioSQg_vFWdsS1mE4dNfY4KoGcqFqLyEBYqsfZDO-L6YtU7f1xmWFoJDWwyX8_p-OFXjby8Sn7_ckGz-otFF3kYfFXeI2ZvmGK8Cdqe8P6yxk3JTfV-CHeYfzf8q-3BlIh4aLsGienRjNKzE7Rjlc2dsBtcqouoOHkuh4GR0NG7IlAkvnP3v4gNSwFncgd-BZWUwi35xAU1iqDNLb7CLg9gyPVaHVAzc3N3p7ejWmiOf_xSe43btrL4A=w2560-h1900-no


Frame end seems bent.

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December 1st 2017:

Good news everyone, Mayhem was not totaled. Damage was assessed at $6800 and I got a check. Bought a 2005 F550 6.0 automatic to pull the sheet metal off of and scavenge for parts. Last night some friends and I trucked out to Wilmington in Mayhem to pick up my parts F550. Same thing happened when we took the cab off, where the deck boards of the trailer broke when loading :lol:

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Figured that out, got the truck loaded, then hit the road. Strap check was a go, and we kept on the way back to Durham:

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It turned out to be a good thing that this was a running driving truck we picked up, because Mayhem's alternator died at some point and the batteries were completely discharged about 90 miles east of Durham. I'm not sure exactly when the alternator died because the battery light has been on intermittently since June and I've dismissed it as worn out batteries (strike #1 for me) All the lights dimmed, christmas tree in the dash lit up, radio and brake controller flickering on and off, etc. Pulled over on the side of the highway and left Mayhem idle while we took the batteries out of the parts truck. Mayhem shut herself off after about 5 minutes.

Got the batteries swapped and we were good to go, albeit without a charging alternator. Turned around and went back to a Pilot station where we planned to buy some tools to change the alternator, because Mayhem does not yet have a proper toolkit (strike #2 for me). Bought a toolkit and went to loosen the first bolt on the parts truck, but the socket adapter exploded. Walked back into the store where the told us "yeah, we don't do returns". Bought a set of wrenches instead and swapped the alternator out. It was tough putting the spare alternator on without being able to release belt tension, but we got it done. Mid replacement:

OUYkjmdpOCDM8sDAUQxwN7TAq5co5Gr5d0YgACQ2L7hbGp7Ac2AL6xuZFXM01YHkFDoI2SNe9c36kTdwlaNccxg-Ax6QmsjkeBdJGNOv3yIftzRCrwE0L1DZ9v-YGinw-OW7ezpxM1pQkm_-YK_1j9qpLWY_hbkalZBfOkDRyat2T2w231nbxrkagylVA5Bk6gPlFrmRVKXQ166fQGbbgJZYc4Wem9oeBo68EGzznSAaMn9dXFA3Z1btYEzM2aHigTPM_m1mFbE7fH50kxhJmRdVylqFSOJWugyy9VKPMwV2Qqra27aN_VIMPjpVKUtMGAgsepdHz6gDKO43SpsGfvv5Xk5fNnJCeLuOIfFTNPbuqp038XpTC1cN13CZTUedEBZqPAFEKe9jNd6peFVygvsCS3D5BfPWRxckRC4eESzAZ_lzOv8kC6zxpsgrtA6uSlgF1_1E61NZ3itnbItHMuViy-TvVIISfqBNk3PiWh5ThL8Qss7fpRJw-OyiYvAn04OmpYdTupDibjiIHtMZYe6COmX0bFq_bIrigMYcpZLUIv4zz0whgqWx28MK-b7bC0aUJ0xXJPuJmljLUhp3AD7To8epk4mERs76H2i3qZgFpCXVwo1_M9VSLU89JbC5U6FMkiN1c-h6VzuwtnySnACiKMRMsU8kfI7J=w2048-h1536-no


Needless to say, last night was an adventure. We got back to my house at about 12:20pm, about two hours behind schedule, then @fourtrax and garret drove back to their house in Fuquay. Couldn't have made this trip without you two, I can't thank you enough
yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
:cheers:
 
Jan 10 2018:

Got Mayhem stripped, and the donor stripped, and she's finally getting straightened out. It's been a while, but Mayhem will be back in action soon!

After this is straightened out, she'll be getting the axles from the 05 to get coil springs, better turning radius, and 10 lugs.


CQLODuF9zP_zJ4DQiDzvJl20wB1ZrmJ8PSA=w2693-h1998-no.jpg


Front end complete!! Mayhem is back in action, better than ever. Next up, axles from the 05 donor truck are being moved over to Mayhem to get coil suspension up front, a better turning radius and 10 lug axles
yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7


o5vS4XerzXqGlX58bDuY3nrF281B98f83TQ=w2558-h1898-no.jpg


9B62rYeA6ZGYBRCUCPwjdRmHRHxEkDLqRyg=w2530-h1898-no.jpg


ZwMRlwrux_lk5kweOOPHTRHJJh4fyx2xIuw=w2558-h1898-no.jpg
 
MAy 24 2018:

Not that anyone is reading this thread, but here's an update anyway >
yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7


Towed my land cruiser on my annual pilgrimage up to Oliver Springs, TN for an event we call GSMTR:

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Had a problem with the Ferd on the way back from GSMTR, but no until we got to brier creek (fortunately). Miss at idle that caused it to stall a handful of times, low power when I could get it moving, but the weird part was that it was intermittent. Sometimes it would go away entirely, then come back randomly. OBD didn't show anything abnormal except (injector 6 circuit low), which can be caused by a broken connector, bad FICM (fuel injection control module), bad wiring harness, etc. Figured the low power could mean FICM, HFCM (horizontal fuel conditioning module, aka low pressure fuel pump) filters or injectors. Sound sample:


Since moonshine (my land cruiser) was down (blew a transfer case at GSMTR), I went ahead and ordered a bunch of parts, including fuel filters, new FICM, new ficm relay, new alternator and then new batteries.

All the parts came in yesterday so I got to work on the FICM first. As soon as I pulled up on the FICM, I saw that the #6 injector was disconnected :doh: Retainer clip still on it, so the only possible explanation I have is that when I put the engine together a year ago, I didn't make sure to seat the connector properly. :doh:

txY3iO7hJ5lsAPuU52DAAs5I5JrK2YEbe2rTvZCw0GY5H_seqRT9lQmkzrg_mQ6MYt-8MPZY0SILUy5Ew7sKlz9fpiY0z5StZKHYdbITnRXjgkKekL6W-0UksDqjDp5NsyAVUxlDe-oSFV4FPIDmiye2VPRfQ6HhP6ZbmjfpJMdkEVnFGoCAMdtOAZeP2FBjNdNz5UVCIIDRrN_qkQDMaawdMS14LWfYg7-5ECUHe39hI5cxSlFDsajGhO2DzxcJig5TySqypCnvD4-KYhS9P40yVYBf_srWehVvH33RCi86hB5zZ5ubxclm4VdIqUZ6MemiM7NwxaWDALOOSZiSlu-R9fRblL7PcFyUqN-VEoeZrU--0pLrqzNTQrv2UMV-2uWu5-2g5fSe60vzq_H3uRB1-1Frdlvp2xvny2AaA3QeTT5Q9Uts3I5y4z4oRYLqQenbWKL25mZW2Zkpl2ewAYJvvSX5xKRc71Vp7YTrfe3k-rWbn80S2-9ipDMvsU2C466XQW1UV1rU0MYbPeTp3muFHUKiPzNjZZA7KgKIzv4omWqlAmHmFXIHM-vineEo5g3JZ6jByRiUgjXLgw4t334KjW5hRIibDhKQbZrLTDzc6FQQkkEY0dw2oP7MTEbfHiarPUD2MpHh_asAwpXENNQ_VVIC3FRq6w=w1264-h948-no


Oh well, don't want to return the stuff I ordered, might as well put it on:

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1NEmGP8srrVvIuVwVQfKNA5ffOpQeDJMe3Ch29Imv8QDSbsUNzRfeb0z41FmAjR60wKX5Vcymg9Ku8_AzvsO245886_scTjmLBCjaZ1sFrU9r8MsdqqliisOq5XqSbkxzYI0kKTGmP7FOzH3Qrkr25WxeszpZXQzdHNEf9gnRySRAMhBr8Lw7Jm_nZher69ExE1q6LNzndMcQxpRsX9Ap3VfTiHvezuPYiQ3swaJB8zXETj-_m5mkTAlFW_S1bjtgZfq0lHqfypmRINnPpQtuaEmQj4KS6pXrznX7dkz5oU62dM-PIrrK9YHyothR0WLhLf0xKMDXA-BAKT-ZWvwmOYVBuT0dLJkmcTrzKmalqE-awVwBSoih_ViMIzUMrKXLO-uL9i0LZsM4Zd-Jovv2K86VRVZUSsljF730Lzu0Eo4c1ZpTmoXI1kE_BtD4R1SEY6F4Yr-SsUxJP1-4BAI9LYBdzWpmxUxaPJnacmIyxzEvCJ4XFRazUi9yI41zzJN7wsDOQmNHFyuRoq9oC7f5hpsipnB4hJCss91jWMpD0Cf_xIfizS6tU610MG_BHfMoMYVKW84pj0_E6AeCa6DMLLhRXRL9tT8ZDD9lio-7jT0eLVamztxfoOxgaI9GWim_xnmHOYyjOwYZbyhgApSodIps5kFg5242w=w1264-h948-no


RdN3Oytu7ldI42jqTjlOdev_xxAkVQv_Q3RZhRcZQWD4uZ02RhRM5oFdFVi9GYsGrfF1PmQmQaJPO7qvbMsVAa3DRLBKyuzwGNQ21deg84Z_23W2Q2nIJOoOa3zw8yZ50nmVyTy-SVpwIrhu8FiKugWH-oA6jJqR0CTcDdna_sB4MnRIRWccfyUzPwIFy7zzDKzesU0cxjyugT7-YKAR2ShViiue7_qK_ZqWda8uQEGoTAYFwR-abfUbcGzmBjzuwF9VkXK4idjjdzrAm6ZfajcPgJqWOjqNMHVUPuu2Q_UEr6JKjcD3GApGnp3LCkbBkWRm5rU4pq1D2fVhVPWpGq1-Ae0E4VVdNiO5UCC4lDPg0kxOIML8QYfyGXw_KxKDCqHwZASyoN8HN9fnYlNHAoNrUR6UW9Hn_INzM0YAOJRxTsVisioy1yAPgzNLndIzmGucg0UfNmQC-cKy3_WQRKqhmYbcVPp717SWKXvQS8B1FUkzAZBjI1_BXJiemiyscpAt2GKi6p2eLvyQMvrp9wZopvgjfg1YPTTRv1ZyGeVEYF_AK5ZnxpnEcxhp1RC84fnf42q6C0A2XALpJaNguvxEoi1j2AwiqpvsXQbEqsxBuiazppBTDH7plCOtN7shMI3AAxr8O2mle2nW_Eb3MyRwdIEReJJPRw=w1264-h948-no


New alt next to the old one:

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Finished with new batts:

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Took her for a test drive and eureka!! She was fixed. All telemetry normal, will check codes today after a few more miles on it.

Fun wasn't over though, brought it home, went to restart it to hear it again and the starter died on me
yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
Thinking back, the solenoid did stick on this past Sunday when the issue occurred, but seemed unrelated. Swapped in my spare starter this morning (the dirty one in this pic). Now we're back in action.

VMpxDbaizv_E8r5OQvciMnOSzXaRuPBxlEWRv8Zi0sKw8Vvo3UQwLHU1JZlhsH3oFm3L_h0Zrit_aFsk8Q-KQr67LOXIDZ0pSVlOWKCrSc8xGQ0PYdqqz6CChHbV5DZwiAhDY8vW2whi1sNAkCrfJ8BP2skz3JsNCIdg3llBT6RGHOv-GwcCP_f59hQVlY5q8KfXlsH6ICF5q3jQ4tFv2GZwCo45vEMTMUHiRZ3g_aWas8gZgbdOBHCSJ0xHWB5KQBTW3JaDJhybDUneQA3Ou29wKPimJMtfZqyr7War04oEkANl72_Xbe-aQrLGWLtdUdlpP9sWAmwGy0xxeJyEn9Keb-qHFywTz_XCndqdUBNSO24b_brNkCg0ZhZajwlDJdfP31ZYDByjoQHfQyUNtE9m2V_05bfTjTacgudRe9TP1sjwOhPVJpWuEt_2zsCeAHayc7RPeeJJphZXtrM_f418NaD97d7gBfEXJYq7ylHD-xXc2Q4D6hyB-IXHzFgsvkQYS0W0zvK7iVb_UE9KXbrhUqkGzOFl3PI9BlKk68AMScwIs4txoSDmEBX4dzqyemSsJju8qzril0T43kxCQgJascTmC3E0gymBSKlw44aH6vGLKGUndhvhrPqV1ANNy9PVt4drdFYv42qI5kXgQAuoDXgzKQFmDg=w1264-h948-no


It's nice to be able to drive myself in my own truck again. WFH and borrowing the wife's car is no bueno :lol:
 
May 21 2019:

Annual update and question post.

Picked up a new trailer and have been driving around all peachy keen.

FfHfsxH50JQtjzrXkOAUrYax10J6OUO4ArNA=w1241-h930-no.jpg


About 3 hours into a 6 hour trip, fuel filters clogged. Scary feeling, but easy enough fix. Need to change fuel filters with every change, and carry spares, with spare caps :lol: Must have over-tightened the engine bay filter and broke it. Thought it was fine, but it ended up spraying fuel all over the engine bay.

L0DTNqyy0GWqiuYy1V58OxdUCt2HLJetjyPnw=w698-h930-no.jpg


YXwZJFThriGx4992nrlhO1OrKyA5bKQvbUMw=w1241-h930-no.jpg
 
For the question, after the filters were changed, my clutch started slipping. In reading, since this is a F550, I have the regular clutch, not the dual mass setup. Which clutch setup should I go with? South bend? Luk? OEM? When I tow I'm between 24k and 30k gross weight.

Still searching, but let me know what you think!

EDIT: Just about the same symptom, except once I'm in gear, while towing, if I hit the throttle hard the clutch slips, meaning I'm in for a full set of hydraulics and a clutch. Just need help picking the specific clutch.
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...g-floor-3.html

Quick specs:
fresh-ish 155cc injectors
hot street tune by warren diesel
factory turbo
atlas 80 FICM

Plans to upgrade turbo once mine goes out.
 
August 8 2019:

Used the original brackets for the middle front seat to make a bracket to mount my Tuffy center console (finally):

hlm6iq1IZNStniHQT1cBaLEnzzGL1_f5XjNJKO_0OaxybCw8AmWer56ec0uzF1r9kiD6vas4P2Lnz_XFDTmLpc_1FY1qisIh8qMsxYWhG1hjOQWlTvF0uk32ZAKzKv_crrREwRPq9exw4Gxkg3JQ_RwYX55aGQQcwue3kI7115Uaw2aC4SAkPHuhWXD3QQJY5Vm2uyNhnnSt-mLBIDTBFPItjFwxKSHsFKDnTs7FC-cwfk6c_vW5Z5VaFJNd0YsJVqBIbW2Ay6xInbrIDmwC7OVnVLYCHvpBkeospyeQwect6X1qRCilVjiWsUtJYl06fuqfBX3xk-hacPnnunEPDTd6_rZcP245YLV7hqY3K5oyu12imqqBmSHSs2bReM_qzflQp5dPK1v9NS8tq2h1sf-Budy9vC_Wzi-Eo8QYPfMJ--apqym1GjXVBcPzBbIQZSFobY5k6QME09r4e4yHt-Z4SOt5aTuAPBQaw8x2YfuCU6x3p3FJxHqhKMD9WusgSeOREx5UUrk5s-QEOVQ4OP_hxKbKfiQNvDSeTQqM2RtwrlFiFtJxZAZtOsRDIvezsQX8y3GjLobUSsiZSYWW1LETNt4gZmbuL9wZwm25Ey7nqQT6JDeQpJ5hgJ6jsYsnnv0iFXwr02fbaH1H7TImNUZNbwwWZ9L62Zaqceo2_A3a1hcpKQa0LDt_kbWQ6aKuHZdWWYHR4obPSPyqFNRiUEoV-g=w1241-h930-no


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Had the starter go out on me again, so I purchased a Mahle starter from cncfab.us. Hopefully it lasts longer than the one motocraft and two bosh starters that I've gone through in the past few years.

In hopes of getting the starter to last longer, I changed out my glow plugs. Diesel Tech Ron (and others) show getting to the glow plugs from the top, but I found it easier to go in through the side skirts.

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As you can see, some of the glow plugs were not working. Hopefully this helps prevent another starter issue for a few years.

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As for the clutch, working on saving up to buy the Valair Dual Disk Organic. I've been using the truck for trips to the dump and trips to lowes with the not-great clutch, which is why the starting issue got priority.
 
November 18 2019:

Ended up going with the Valair Dual Disk Organic clutch. Easiest clutch install ever. Currently in the break-in period, everything going smoothly so far.

Valair's techsupport was great for my quick questions regarding the flywheel bolts. Fingers crossed this clutch will be good to go for a long time.

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d8Js5sDgI8u1RM5x2DY2o1FbDyek1XykLqKl5Es46J7zwFkGoLwPvZkDh-LF9k8_BkZPNeRisz099FTXISy6FA-0JwVaY68_9rK02IV0uMuQu-L8cGQogtxrE6rmXufYE-k9ee_zz4xy1_Nqh1oxygLtao4aGowBa3alQWkR_7weupCBrspluNRuOv2sfFZQw98Kcn3EZAdVrG3iZfn8qkPCYhkHLJODo8e2YROEDDjQa5uOOTHoRMTazjgKeQvIBDNv17aE0HlRtNI95irNP7qZfBXYLItYKxFImGz5N9F46rXeJbtVbpnR1ucf5tOxv8b_GzHZ7p5blKa-muo-_67JBXQ_voJQBLRvnuG6FNgykoihBMqrUbo7Ruv6x_rykj3bDYI0ivdh3vrWDqECnG9jK2sSxuaEla4CylyUxWZa0tKhy5y2tTGplFS7LMN6sRUN8Fwa6dRwWSZw8a7TLavMamyFjPLT-iV0CfIrezM5h7Jqf7VW0YbZVASSihz-WeTrXk_MO9amVJC0fHlCxRDnkyv_FF-cH9QpA_uiYmKGpXZL-9FZeMSfmCUGAoFk1hiOifro3EbD4vQL7BBsMtu8ShPaas2oQ-oV4dfDV-HlXF5BNEdmQoqbeY5hgkBHOiEuLMploZIypvq6CobMJXE5iChKLRg9iAYySjc4kV9UvRIVReumtpQy7oT8nl1BHTDb-fe3ToQEGPK9cY_3hHW-TfnqG0sAX6aYTPFeYzAlEYua3A=w2030-h1523-no
 
Converted my rear axle from the weird 8 lug pattern to 10x225 by swapping 05+ hubs onto my axle. Everything bolts together, no modifications needed. New wheel bearings, rotors, pads and fluid, right at 230k miles.

PQviNV2u3CuLQ2Lgh4_zT3G3d7GQeDOOpABdT49MbeOEPQvuXXgqYnjI1MlOa09wuFP9cFc8WQbj2e3LhvYVdA5dJEWCPFQpJSGWu6fLMHqdgPI4fTfYGdTVQK1UCF71OwaAVFKJ5xFv_avcZVX5fj6g2dtaAFdnFCoaoLIakef5pMDomxwqRIL0jVnY41kE6bau7c7IvXNuVQuCTHGSxTE1k9Qc-WXEV0aD7Rg9tRyTZLJlAmFq7KWqjTX7QG2vw_bZbic-2ZRKWyfBBx2iJ1-nRNs_cay30wJSo1QLE7NaqCvIlQrXeTlohEIbV7kHq6lTAi5tyWfX83TW5qFkA6TS1SJTLgBppqlpvkVxlXi3rTfdDI2K1EFdq3kGw6H2p3018JqC-xxY9mQpjIzGUMqykpDkFgXAxLm6BAYyxAFhfMPD_qYTobqJbiYZy2irrRU419QWsUuKBNs4xLV1SpBMnozRbaePoILxzxcVVQ95Oq378rqJZ3pxb7ZswX4lc0Qu7wMuw7GnToiF3P38iLYQM0gFnoC1LlLqDtixC9vDG7ev_8L5bIioz37piNzYuqDbE-mizqdN19I52BNCnBXpF5fe1roWrGBk-lBqxAuiO_lKcIynY0oq6z__cBe-d_BgEzbN9TswF5M-D6M74jjMFonNKQ9GXP0x5hTFU7SOSBpvfeo7VrQ4p0Tuu6Jae1nkdfxq4lxRo6guHh_y0HQbeSEG_rjj5CPV5ZMDsBvlw_B85Q=w1280-h960-no


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March 2020:

Picked up some alcoas to put on the truck with 255/70r22.5s when I get around to replacing the front end:

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Fuel starvation issue from may 2019 popped up again this year a few months ago. Some research indicated that the rear fuel tank was likely delaminating. In comes a titan fuel tank to replace the rear one:


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Of course there was still ~20 gallons left in the rear tank, so fuel got everywhere:

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Pickup foot was broken like they apparently always are, so it got a new one, then the tank went back in. Had to shim the straps with some rubber, as the titan tank is just a little bit shorter than the OEM tank:

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Anyway, these are the shenanigans I use the tow pig for. Towing cruisers around, and bringing shit to the dump:

1-zRX39ScGXXoO1FHAEIk3aA=w1990-h1493-no?authuser=0.jpg


We're winching the body up onto the trailer:


Mf6zHCUecjerfnhug6OlmWCQ=w1990-h1493-no?authuser=0.jpg


Thanks for reading.
 
For the question, after the filters were changed, my clutch started slipping. In reading, since this is a F550, I have the regular clutch, not the dual mass setup. Which clutch setup should I go with? South bend? Luk? OEM? When I tow I'm between 24k and 30k gross weight.

Still searching, but let me know what you think!

EDIT: Just about the same symptom, except once I'm in gear, while towing, if I hit the throttle hard the clutch slips, meaning I'm in for a full set of hydraulics and a clutch. Just need help picking the specific clutch.
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...g-floor-3.html

Quick specs:
fresh-ish 155cc injectors
hot street tune by warren diesel
factory turbo
atlas 80 FICM

Plans to upgrade turbo once mine goes out.

:eek:

How are your EGTs with that tune and the atlas 80?




Nice work, I miss having a 6.0l some days... but I don't miss always wrenching on it :grinpimp: Definitely jealous of the manual as well, though the automatic surprised me and never let me down.
 
:eek:

How are your EGTs with that tune and the atlas 80?

Nice work, I miss having a 6.0l some days... but I don't miss always wrenching on it :grinpimp: Definitely jealous of the manual as well, though the automatic surprised me and never let me down.

Controllable! It needs a bigger turbo for sure, KC stage 3 most likely, but for now it's fine. I can hit 1500* if I stay in it while loaded and approaching 4000rpm. I flash a towing tune while hooked up to a trailer and with that tune it's a non-issue.
 
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