Build Project : Back Burner

[vegask]

Sweet build, what is your WMS to WMS measurement going to be?

 

[Landy_Andy]

Sweet build, what is your WMS to WMS measurement going to be?

It's 69.75" but then I'm running an additional 0.5" spacer on each side to allow the 05+ 17" steel wheels to clear the front knuckle steering arm. Getting some 20" rims would solve this problem but there not in the budget at this time. I'd also probably get some designed for portal use with a deep back spacing to reduce the outside/outside of tire down closer to the new crop of super SxS's as a lot the trails locally are really tight.

 

[Landy_Andy]

Had a go at repairing the hole I put in the radiator. Watched a few videos on repairing A/C condensers & made a steel mask to protect the surrounding tubes & fins, worked out a treat & no leaks so far !



After getting the motor up & running, spending a couple of days doing initial injector deadtime & idle tuning, spending a lot of time chatting with other turbo guru's on the Epic EFI discord group I decided to add an intercooler. Tried lots of different sizes and ended up with a generic 27" x 7" one up front. It's a snug fit for the hoses but should significantly reduce the IAT temps I'm seeing.



Waiting again for more parts to get that install finished off & then onto the braking system as I now have an IBooster.

 

[Landy_Andy]

Whilst waiting on the silicon hoses & couplers, got to work designing some mounting brackets to support the intercooler off the front hoop. Worked out nice & just enough room to still squeeze a dual pass hydro steering cooler below I think.

 

[Landy_Andy]

After ordering a bunch of different pipes & couplers from our favorite marketplace, came up with something that didn't need any custom parts apart from trimming some of the silicon elbows down. Found I needed to turn the IAC air inlet pipe 180 degrees for a better pipe routing. Now just waiting on a couple of 3/8" NPT bungs to relocate the IAC pipe connection & IAT sensor. In the meantime I found a VW N75 boost valve in my parts box, so am going to add that in so we can run up to ~10psi once I switch out the stock injectors... then maybe a bit more if I pull the head & fit some ARP studs & a decent gasket, but that's well down the road for now.

 

[Landy_Andy]

Finished up the intercooler pipework with the addition of extra bungs for the IAT, IAC air & the rocker cover breather. Added a catch can & linked the vent port of the N75 valve into the same pipework back to the filter adapter.



Added the resevoir to the clutch master.



Got the iBooster bolted up & the pedal will full stroke the master cylinder in all 3 pedal ratio holes.



Next to add an independent fuse box for the booster directly off the main breaker so we always have powered brakes when the buggy is on.

 

[Landy_Andy]

Added a new bracket to mount the brake master reservoir on the front of the pedal box to get the output above the small one on the master cylinder & the pipe around the steering shaft. Will add a bump into the side panel when we get that far, onto brake & clutch lines now.

 

[Landy_Andy]

Realized I'd not put a picture of the completed intercooler install, happy how it's worked out & first tests are giving a 10 degree drop in IAT's



Now, back to the mundane task of welding on a bunch of tabs for the side skins. Decided to use St/St M6 button heads for all the side panels to save some $'s where I can easily get to the back side. For the interior panels & anything that's a PITA to access the back off, they'll have the Dzus buttons.

 

[Landy_Andy]

Time to make a start on getting the drive shafts built, first off is the front steady bearing assembly. After looking at the options from vendors and finding them all way to expensive a cost effective solution was needed. Found a post on a FB group where a guy had used a 14 bolt pinion yolk and stub shaft and it just so happened a buddy had regeared his axles and had one in the scrap bin... result, so that was recovered & the gear cut off. Found a used 1350 yolk on Ebay to save some more $ and got a flange bearing of the appropriate size. Unfortunately, the bearing needed to be a slip fit rather than a press, so we had to resort to the redneck lathe



After some careful polishing the fit was good & the yolk just needed to have ~10mm trimmed off the back to allow for full thread engagement of the nut.



Next I turn the attention to the rear axle, have decided upon using 14" Carbon Shock Tech. air shocks so made up some tube dummy's to set the mounting tabs at ride height.



Now to check the drive line angle at full droop using my mockup 3rd member and ouch, we're about 30 degrees.... well over the spec'd 20 of a regular 1350 joint.



So, now the decision... do I use a pair of the Tom Woods 'Super Flex' joints that'll get us 30 degrees and possibly have to add a center limit strap or just tip up the nose of the 3rd & use a DC joint off the t'case... but again that may need to be clearanced as there spec'd at 30 degrees too and there really expensive !



Is there a junk yard option I'm missing here ?

 

[abrogate]

No suggestion for a junkyard option, but be prepared to be disappointed the with the real world angles of the DC. I had to tear my 1350 DC apart and clearance nearly every surface to get the advertised angles. They suck to tear apart and rebuild IMO.

I found some unique grinding wheel that really helped:

Project perseverance - start to finish

 

[Landy_Andy]

No suggestion for a junkyard option, but be prepared to be disappointed the with the real world angles of the DC. I had to tear my 1350 DC apart and clearance nearly every surface to get the advertised angles. They suck to tear apart and rebuild IMO.

I found some unique grinding wheel that really helped:

Project perseverance - start to finish

Thanks for that, definitely looks to be a PITA to do. I did find on another build thread that F250's have the 1350 DC joints in their drive shafts, so if I can get one cheap enough from the local junkyard it'd be worth spending the time to clearance it out. Just need to figure out what tube they use now.... although I do like the simplicity of just using the TW offset joints. Would making repairs way easier when your 50km in the bush & working on a rock.

 

[mdogg]

Thanks for that, definitely looks to be a PITA to do. I did find on another build thread that F250's have the 1350 DC joints in their drive shafts, so if I can get one cheap enough from the local junkyard it'd be worth spending the time to clearance it out. Just need to figure out what tube they use now.... although I do like the simplicity of just using the TW offset joints. Would making repairs way easier when your 50km in the bush & working on a rock.

Pretty sure I use super duty DC on mine, no issues

 

[Landy_Andy]

Got the last of the panel tabs finished on the rear of the chassis and moved back to the front to work on the driveshaft. After getting the axle up to full stuff, found the top link mount was starting to get into the lower radiator hose. Buzzed them off & now it just kisses, once the bumps are on I'll have the shocks 1/2" from full stuff so it shouldn't be an issue then.



Next for the required flex test & drooped the axle out to check where were at with the driveshaft angle.



Found were again in the 30+ degrees with the very short front shaft (~24" long). Looking through my parts boxes I found a spare TW 1350 off-set joint, so need to get a slip yolk next to do some further measuring up. Good progress this week due to the weather being so poor, maybe it'll stop raining soon !

 

[LScout800]

I am running shortened super duty shafts in my junk. With a little help fr9m the grinder they get plenty of angle.