Build Project : Back Burner

Still working through all the small jobs, updated the uaEFI daugher board to fix my error & made it neater.

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Made a start on the wiring loom, got all new connectors & had a bunch of 18awg TXL leftover from another project, hopefully I can squeeze it all into the AmpSeal 35 pin back shell... fingers crossed !

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Got to work on making a drop in fuel pump assembly for the Jaz tank, couldn't find one that fitted the budget and the space available so making my own. Just wish I could get the plasma cuts neater on aluminum... they suck :shaking:

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What are you doing for transfer case(s)? Toyota chain drive and NWF Ecobox?
 
2 86s said:
What are you doing for transfer case(s)? Toyota chain drive and NWF Ecobox?
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2 86s said:
What are you doing for transfer case(s)? Toyota chain drive and NWF Ecobox?
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At this point just the stock t'case with twin sticks... have allowed for a NWF box to be added if funds allow, otherwise will probably run deep gears in the axles.
 
Good to have the option since a single case won't be low enough with a manual. Even with 7.17s you'll only be 73:1.
 
2 86s said:
Good to have the option since a single case won't be low enough with a manual. Even with 7.17s you'll only be 73:1.
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I know, but to be honest it's more of a SXS on steroids, not much in the way of rocks to crawl over here... mostly clear cuts & dead fall...
 
After bouncing around between manual & boosted brakes decided the best option was to go with a Gen2 iBooster out of an Accord. Couldn't find one available locally so designed a simple mockup silhouette from the 3D model in the files directory. Drew up a basic 'firewall' mount & got things tacked in leaving enough room for the clutch to be added later once it arrives. Relocated the orbital mount forwards to a better location that'll keep the hoses short & any hot hydraulic fluid away from us in the event of a leak.

iBooster Mockup.jpg Mockup 1.jpg Mockup 2.jpg

Now we have a home for the booster, updated the model to accommodate the steering column & added speed holes :rockon:

Booster Mount.jpg
 
Landy_Andy said:
After bouncing around between manual & boosted brakes decided the best option was to go with a Gen2 iBooster out of an Accord. Couldn't find one available locally so designed a simple mockup silhouette from the 3D model in the files directory. Drew up a basic 'firewall' mount & got things tacked in leaving enough room for the clutch to be added later once it arrives. Relocated the orbital mount forwards to a better location that'll keep the hoses short & any hot hydraulic fluid away from us in the event of a leak.

iBooster Mockup.jpg Mockup 1.jpg Mockup 2.jpg

Now we have a home for the booster, updated the model to accommodate the steering column & added speed holes :rockon:

Booster Mount.jpg
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The more I learn about this iBooster system, the more intrigued I am. I’ve been in a love/hate relationship with my CNC manual brakes since day one. Love the simplicity, hate the trial and error of getting everything sized right. I dig the mock up you made. Looks like a good fit for the space available.
 
abrogate said:
The more I learn about this iBooster system, the more intrigued I am. I’ve been in a love/hate relationship with my CNC manual brakes since day one. Love the simplicity, hate the trial and error of getting everything sized right. I dig the mock up you made. Looks like a good fit for the space available.
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Thanks, I think the trick to getting a good working setup is all in the mockup stage & especially modeling it all out... next to the updated mount & see how it al looks. Spending the time & money to make a small plasma table is worth it's weight in gold.... the new JD's Garage 'Metal' mini is fantastic value for a small shop.

JD's Garage Metal Mini Plasma Table
 
Landy_Andy said:
Thanks, I think the trick to getting a good working setup is all in the mockup stage & especially modeling it all out... next to the updated mount & see how it al looks. Spending the time & money to make a small plasma table is worth it's weight in gold.... the new JD's Garage 'Metal' mini is fantastic value for a small shop.

JD's Garage Metal Mini Plasma Table
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I’ve been a plasma table preacher for a long time. My TorchMate3 has been running since 2009. They are invaluable.
 
Moving forwards with the pedal box design, updated & recut to allow for the steering shaft to align better with the relocated orbital.

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Now that's finalized, time to make it in 1/8" material along with some pedals.

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Back to the waiting game again for the clutch slave, throttle cable & other bits to finish off this assembly.
 
A few parts arrived so, back to finishing off the fuel tank assembly. Made my own drop in pump unit for half the cheapest option from Summit Racing :eek:

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Finished up the tank tray & got it installed in the chassis.

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Next onto the interior to get the floor supports designed & installed whilst I wait on more small items to arrive.
 
- do not run rubber hose on the tank

- i wouldnt suggest against mounting the pump ON all thread like that, these are helpful for mounting
 
abrogate said:
Curious as to why? I see the tubing you linked and have seen that on other in tank setups. If the hose is submersible rated, what would be the issue?
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dealt with too many issues to trust it. stainless steel is my first choice, that plastic stuff is second. how many OEMs do you see with rubber in the tank?
 
abrogate said:
Any worries for starvation with the offset pump and small fuel sock/hydramat? Seems like a central pump and offset fill would be a better arrangement. Obviously you would have to be relatively low on fuel for it to be an issue.
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As this will be used 99% on forest roads & 1% on any sort of technical trails that's something I can manage, I installed the fuel gauge sender for that very reason.
 
mobil1syn said:
dealt with too many issues to trust it. stainless steel is my first choice, that plastic stuff is second. how many OEMs do you see with rubber in the tank?
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The rubber hose came with the pump, I'm assuming it's in tank rated.... although there were no markings on it.

Will look at replacing it when I get back to the fuel system... thanks
 
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Back to tube work so I can get some floor panels drawn up & cut. Think I'll keep it simple (orange tubes) & use Dzus fasteners to secure the instrument panel & tunnel pieces together.

Floor Supports.jpg
 
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mobil1syn said:
dealt with too many issues to trust it. stainless steel is my first choice, that plastic stuff is second. how many OEMs do you see with rubber in the tank?
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I haven't seen OEM with rubber, just the accordion stuff you linked. As you know from that fuel cell maintenance thread I had that you commented in, I had some bad tubing, but the submersible stuff was all sound. Only the AN pushlock hose that wasn't submersible rated started to disintegrate.
 
Nice work. May seem odd but can you post up some pictures of the rear upper link mounts? From what I have seen looks similar to what I have planned.
 
Blase said:
Nice work. May seem odd but can you post up some pictures of the rear upper link mounts? From what I have seen looks similar to what I have planned.
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Here you go, I just cut them out of 1/4" plate & used them to act as reinforcements over the frame joints.

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Cut & coped the floor supports on the plasma table and got them all tacked in. Now to get back to figuring out the pedals.

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Made a throttle pedal, just waiting on the new cable to arrive so I can finish them off. In the meantime, think some floor panels would be helpful.

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Finished up the throttle pedal and made a simple bracket to reverse mount a Nissan clutch master cylinder. Choose that one as it had the same bore as the Yota but used a remote reservoir. Will get a small motorbike one to mount on the engine bay side of the lower dash bar.

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Back in the waiting game for more small parts to complete the pedal box assembly, so got to work on the floor panels. Drew it up in Fusion, exported as a .dxf into Inkscape & exported as a 1:1 .pdf, printed out as a poster & spray glued onto cereal packets I've been saving up. Nice & cheap way to ensure I get a good fit before committing to metal :cool2:

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Not bad for a starting point, will need to tighten up the cutouts around the tubes, check for fit on the passenger side... them off for cutting & forming. Am thinking 1/8" 5052 should be good enough as it's a small size & minimal spans between tubes.
 
Picked up a couple of UB's off Amazon hoping they were good quality. Well, am surprised, they even have the big nuts staked so they won't come loose and for less than half the cost of SKF ones.

Drew up a little fixture jig to mount them in the drill press for opening up to 1.5" for the 35 spline stubs. Got a TCT annular cutter & arbor from the same place... and got to work boring them out. Once I had the fixture aligned it took about 5 minutes to go through, nice & slow with lots of lube to prevent the corners of the cutter over heating.

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The finish is a lot better than using a hole saw I think, I finished it off with a quick flap wheel polish before installing the Branik brass bushings.

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Blase said:
Glad to hear they are decent!! I have a set in my cart now. LOL
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They're the 'A-Premium' brand, I'm using their 99-04 F250 rear calipers too... look to be new castings and not refurbished ones. Can't fault the quality & the prices are very reasonable, just not worth messing around with junk yard parts.
 
Had a good idea to use my rotary x-axis on the plasma table to weld out the links & eventually the drive shafts. Made up a lead to fire the trigger on the mig & got to work testing the setup.

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Took a few tests to get close to the correct settings on feed & voltage. Next the real job... links !

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Some more fine adjustments as we progressed to improve the lay & fill, all together 100% better than I can do by hand with just one stop/start. So far all the bungs have screwed straight in with no issues, next to do the uppers.
 
Landy_Andy said:
Had a good idea to use my rotary x-axis on the plasma table to weld out the links & eventually the drive shafts. Made up a lead to fire the trigger on the mig & got to work testing the setup.

IMG_2638.jpeg

Took a few tests to get close to the correct settings on feed & voltage. Next the real job... links !

IMG_2653.jpeg IMG_2651.jpeg IMG_2656.jpeg

Some more fine adjustments as we progressed to improve the lay & fill, all together 100% better than I can do by hand with just one stop/start. So far all the bungs have screwed straight in with no issues, next to do the uppers.
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Look much nicer then the links I just welded up with 0.040... It's all that was in the machine and friend didn't want to bring the other machine with 0.030 or 0.035. No grinding looks nice! Almost like tig.
 
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