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relocating the washing machine and need to add a branch to this drain assembly. original thought was to pull the plug and add it there. part of me wants to keep it in the wall so it looks better and i can put with the new water supply assembly. house was build in the 60s and best i can tell this is untouched.

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YotaAtieToo

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So what's the question? :laughing:​​​​​​

Cut the pipe to get it apart, add drain with a union :confused:

Unless I'm missing something?
 

Hippie666

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Those lower joints are lead and oakam (sp), old school, unless you know how to repack the joint leave them alone. Cut the galvanized pipe above the tar coated cast iron, use a couple no hub couplings and a san tee to drain the washer,
. Check your local code for riser height for drain line
 

Ted_Kaczynski

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Your wife looks overjoyed about you fucking up her laundry stuff. Tell her we agree, you have no idea what you are doing :lmao:
 

Etyler2

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Those lower joints are lead and oakam (sp), old school, unless you know how to repack the joint leave them alone. Cut the galvanized pipe above the tar coated cast iron, use a couple no hub couplings and a san tee to drain the washer,
. Check your local code for riser height for drain line

This is your answer.
 

3Cs

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While it's OK to stack Tees in some jurisdictions, I wouldn't dump the washer over the kitchen sink drain. You will probably pull the sink trap when the washer discharges if you do. However, it shouldn't be a problem to put the sink tee above the washer tee. If it were me I'd cut the cast iron sink tee flush with the hub it's tied into and drill out the lead joint to remove the remaining piece, then caulk in a PVC adapter. As a homeowner you other option is to cut the Tee out 2" above the hub below it and use a Mission band to convert over to PVC. They make them in a variety of sizes so you should be able to find one to fit. There's a good chance you'll need to file or grind a casting ridge down to get the band to seal but it's no big deal. Keep the trap for the washer box as low as you can to get the longest riser possible. In fact,I'd use an 1 1/2" trap with a 2" x 1 1/2" coupling on the inlet of the trap and then a 2" riser.
 

Clb

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Envision Proofreading. First 50 club
Riser height might put him into the c.i.! (Small screen kindle!)
so snap cutter, and no hubs , DO read up on the oakum\hot lead joints and what they have out now to repack em.
What's back of the wall got in it? (Behind c.i.)
IF you can cut into the galvy rock a 4 wheel cutter GENTLY so as not to break the lead​​ seal, (letting the gas out) back up the direction of rotation with a pipe wrench so ya don't break the joint seal. Resist using a sawzall on this !
brb
Is that a 2x4 studwall (not much support on the window even with the 4 pack king) sanitary whye (points down duh) the joint so flow stays high!
You WANT that cleanout, unless the other side of wall is another (longshot here).
 
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3Cs

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I wouldn't use a snapper on that tee, cut it with a Sawzall. Diablo blades FTW.
 
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While it's OK to stack Tees in some jurisdictions, I wouldn't dump the washer over the kitchen sink drain. You will probably pull the sink trap when the washer discharges if you do. However, it shouldn't be a problem to put the sink tee above the washer tee. If it were me I'd cut the cast iron sink tee flush with the hub it's tied into and drill out the lead joint to remove the remaining piece, then caulk in a PVC adapter. As a homeowner you other option is to cut the Tee out 2" above the hub below it and use a Mission band to convert over to PVC. They make them in a variety of sizes so you should be able to find one to fit. There's a good chance you'll need to file or grind a casting ridge down to get the band to seal but it's no big deal. Keep the trap for the washer box as low as you can to get the longest riser possible. In fact,I'd use an 1 1/2" trap with a 2" x 1 1/2" coupling on the inlet of the trap and then a 2" riser.

this is the other aide of the sink. the oakam/lead seems easy enough to remove with enough disregard for me health. i bet i could stack the tees and have little elevation change on the sink.

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3Cs

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You've got plenty of room to either cut the sink tee and band on or cut it flush with the hub and drill it out, no health risks doing it this way. There's easily enough height left either way for the sink trap. Forget about the old Clean-Out at the floor, no drain cleaner would ever bother tryin to use that. I would put a new C.O. just under the old vent elbow where it would actually be preferred.
 

82toycrawler

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If it were me, I would cut off the tee to the kitchen sink 2"above the joint with a cutoff wheel or sawzall. Put a no hub coupling on the remaining piece 2" tee to the left for washer then another tee on top for the sink.

Be sure to put a 2" p trap on the washer drain line.
 
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What are all of the cross wires for?

backing for the paper under the stucco, this wall was an exterior wall that is becoming an interior wall.

had two layers of wood paneling and holy crap does a diamond wheel on a skillsaw make a mess. i knew it would be messy, but not even close to what i anticipated. spent about 3 hours cleaning the rest of the room and kids toys that were COVERED in dust.

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Hippie666

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an update ... the fernco fit was looser than i would have like, so i gave it a healthy coating of silicon, before dropping it in. also found the vent had a solid 3-6" of gunk with a few inches of water just above where the sink dumped in so the venting was not existent.

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