Plasma cutter usefulness/worth it?

[Rustyheep]

If ya haven't gotten a plasma cutter yet, what are you waiting for??

lol, I evolved from using a grinder, to oxy/propane torches (those worked really well, no seriously) to a few years ago picking up a 40A hobart plasma cutter.

Its rated to clean cut 5/8" steel, but I had cut 3/4" pretty clean with that and sever cut is rated for 7/8", but again, I cut through some 1" no problem. Just took a little longer, had to let the arc catch up on the bottom compared to the top. If you have 240V available, then be sure to pick up a 240V unit. Mine has no air compressor, so I use a 60 gal, 10.2 cfm husky compressor and it will keep up with the cutter all day. Air supply is important.

On to the good stuff. It cuts thin sheet metal really fast, it will cut 1/4" plate like a hot knife through warm butter, even 3/8 wont be a problem if you're cutting that thickness plate. I have helped multiple friends repair rusty, shitty jeeps, using the plasma to cut out areas where there is rot and plating the frame with caps. The cutting tips will cut through any metal that may be behind what your cutting, the arc will travel more than an inch, so trying to use those tips to remove brackets is nerve wracking. Miller welding's solution was to develop a gouging tip to spread the arc at further distances. It works amazing, i used that to cut brackets off an axle without killing the tubes, then using a grinding wheel to remove any remaining weld bead.

By far this has been one of my best purchases to date. The consumables are cheap, sure you should have a bigger air compressor to minimize stops, but who doesn't want to have more air capacity? Only down fall is it needs to have clean metal to cut, some mill scale and surface rust is okay, the pilot arc will cut through that til it can establish a good connection. Just gota make sure you have a good ground.

 

[arse_sidewards]

If ya haven't gotten a plasma cutter yet, what are you waiting for??

lol, I evolved from using a grinder, to oxy/propane torches (those worked really well, no seriously) to a few years ago picking up a 40A hobart plasma cutter.

Its rated to clean cut 5/8" steel, but I had cut 3/4" pretty clean with that and sever cut is rated for 7/8", but again, I cut through some 1" no problem. Just took a little longer, had to let the arc catch up on the bottom compared to the top. If you have 240V available, then be sure to pick up a 240V unit. Mine has no air compressor, so I use a 60 gal, 10.2 cfm husky compressor and it will keep up with the cutter all day. Air supply is important.

On to the good stuff. It cuts thin sheet metal really fast, it will cut 1/4" plate like a hot knife through warm butter, even 3/8 wont be a problem if you're cutting that thickness plate. I have helped multiple friends repair rusty, shitty jeeps, using the plasma to cut out areas where there is rot and plating the frame with caps. The cutting tips will cut through any metal that may be behind what your cutting, the arc will travel more than an inch, so trying to use those tips to remove brackets is nerve wracking. Miller welding's solution was to develop a gouging tip to spread the arc at further distances. It works amazing, i used that to cut brackets off an axle without killing the tubes, then using a grinding wheel to remove any remaining weld bead.

The CUT 50 and similiar Chinese plasma cutters are basically the same but with all the numbers cut in half. You'll be able to cut 1/8 like butter, 1/4 easily and 1/2 will be slow going.

who doesn't want to have more air capacity?

The M18 fanboys that show up to derail and thread even remotely about air tools.

 

[Gatorgrizz27]

If ya haven't gotten a plasma cutter yet, what are you waiting for??

lol, I evolved from using a grinder, to oxy/propane torches (those worked really well, no seriously) to a few years ago picking up a 40A hobart plasma cutter.

Its rated to clean cut 5/8" steel, but I had cut 3/4" pretty clean with that and sever cut is rated for 7/8", but again, I cut through some 1" no problem. Just took a little longer, had to let the arc catch up on the bottom compared to the top. If you have 240V available, then be sure to pick up a 240V unit. Mine has no air compressor, so I use a 60 gal, 10.2 cfm husky compressor and it will keep up with the cutter all day. Air supply is important.

On to the good stuff. It cuts thin sheet metal really fast, it will cut 1/4" plate like a hot knife through warm butter, even 3/8 wont be a problem if you're cutting that thickness plate. I have helped multiple friends repair rusty, shitty jeeps, using the plasma to cut out areas where there is rot and plating the frame with caps. The cutting tips will cut through any metal that may be behind what your cutting, the arc will travel more than an inch, so trying to use those tips to remove brackets is nerve wracking. Miller welding's solution was to develop a gouging tip to spread the arc at further distances. It works amazing, i used that to cut brackets off an axle without killing the tubes, then using a grinding wheel to remove any remaining weld bead.

By far this has been one of my best purchases to date. The consumables are cheap, sure you should have a bigger air compressor to minimize stops, but who doesn't want to have more air capacity? Only down fall is it needs to have clean metal to cut, some mill scale and surface rust is okay, the pilot arc will cut through that til it can establish a good connection. Just gota make sure you have a good ground.

Thanks, I’ve already got a 60 gallon, 10+ cfm compressor. It’s has the only 240v thing in my shop besides switching off with a welder. I’m currently Re-wiring everything, the 240v stuff will all be on one 50A circuit, but I’ll be able to have the welder plugged in at the same time as the (eventual) plasma and air compressor.

I will probably bite the bullet and get one fairly soon, just didn’t want to dump $1,500 into a tool that gets pulled out twice a year. Worth it if you end up reaching for it on a weekly basis, hence this thread.

 

[rockyota83]

The CUT 50 and similiar Chinese plasma cutters are basically the same but with all the numbers cut in half. You'll be able to cut 1/8 like butter, 1/4 easily and 1/2 will be slow going.





The M18 fanboys that show up to derail and thread even remotely about air tools.

you rang?

my hypertherm pm30 has a built in air compressor and it will cut 5/8" i typically use it for 1/4" and under mostly cutting off old brackets/parts repairing stuff. i usually use the m18 portaband/skilsaw for cutting new stock, unless its got an odd curve shape then i use the plasma

 

[wvracer821]

my $300 lotos china plasma has been worth every single penny I gave for it.

 

[Grendel]

Had a Chinese cutter, used it a lot at first, but then it started getting shitty, so I gave it away.

Waited a few years, suffered with other cutting shit, until a friend loaned me their Hypertherm.

I have a 45Xp now. All my friends come to me to do their stuff.... yep, doing control arms? Cut them bitches out, bolts are all frozen.

Making control arms? Sure, 1/4" plate all day long.

 

[gozuki]

my $300 lotos china plasma has been worth every single penny I gave for it.

I have the Lotos 220V and it's been flawless, and was under $300 from amazon last Xmas

 

[Weasel]

youre doing it wrong removing brackets from vehicles is one the best things about my plasma, it will fit in much tighter places then an angle grinder.

when i remove brackets i cut the bracket off leaving about an inch left then when the bracket is out of my way i torch out the weld and then knock whats left off with a hammer and chisel, super fast and super clean, barely anything left to clean up with the grinder

Agree, Hypertherm is what's at a buddies shop. I started with cut-off wheels for removing the stock XJ brackets and did 1 lower before trying the plasma and used it on the rest of them. Use it on all the rest and the brackets and crap on a grand. I like them and use it quite a bit. Can get a good enough edge to hit with a hammer, flapper, and then weld.

 

[rockyota83]

Agree, Hypertherm is what's at a buddies shop. I started with cut-off wheels for removing the stock XJ brackets and did 1 lower before trying the plasma and used it on the rest of them. Use it on all the rest and the brackets and crap on a grand. I like them and use it quite a bit. Can get a good enough edge to hit with a hammer, flapper, and then weld.

my last big plasma project was doing a solid axle swap on a tacoma and if i had to remove all the IFS crap with a cut off wheel and sawzall it would have been completely miserable

even my most recent project of removing the rear spring and shackle hangers on an excursion was painless thanks to the plasma, torch out the heads of the rivets and knock the bracket off, trying to get an angle grinder up in there to grind down the rivets would have sucked and took much longer

 

[POR]

I'd more inclined to say get a torch.. its way more versatile and as far as cut inches go it is way more cost efficient. Torches don't care how dirty or greasy steel is. Also bonus is torch is quieter too.

 

[Gatorgrizz27]

I'd more inclined to say get a torch.. its way more versatile and as far as cut inches go it is way more cost efficient. Torches don't care how dirty or greasy steel is. Also bonus is torch is quieter too.

I have a torch. Thought that would be implied or I had mentioned it, but maybe not.

I see a torch and plasma as very different tools, I’m not using my torch to cut any new stock to length if it’s under 1/4” thick. It’s generally for demo/removal and bending shit.

After looking at it a little more, I’m pretty sold on the 40A Hobart unit, due to the full pilot arc. Realized it would be handy on things like frame undercoating, I was primarily planning to use it to fab with new material.

 

[Rustyheep]

I have a torch. Thought that would be implied or I had mentioned it, but maybe not.

I see a torch and plasma as very different tools, I’m not using my torch to cut any new stock to length if it’s under 1/4” thick. It’s generally for demo/removal and bending shit.

After looking at it a little more, I’m pretty sold on the 40A Hobart unit, due to the full pilot arc. Realized it would be handy on things like frame undercoating, I was primarily planning to use it to fab with new material.

I love my 40A hobart, you won't be disappointed with that. Havent been able to do anything with it lately... I moved and am in the process of building a shop. Look at Cyberweld.com for their prices, thats where I got mine from, best value I could find, plus they also have gouging tips for the miller plasma cutters, which work in the hobart. Pick up a pack of them to get the free shipping. Theyre worth every penny.

 

[animator]

I bought a Hobart to cut brackets off for a long arm kit install. Now it’s the first thing I go to any time I have to cut steel. I have a torch, but rarely use it any more, and just grab the plasma.

 

[Provience]

I have a torch. Thought that would be implied or I had mentioned it, but maybe not.

I see a torch and plasma as very different tools, I’m not using my torch to cut any new stock to length if it’s under 1/4” thick. It’s generally for demo/removal and bending shit.

After looking at it a little more, I’m pretty sold on the 40A Hobart unit, due to the full pilot arc. Realized it would be handy on things like frame undercoating, I was primarily planning to use it to fab with new material.

buy a smaller cutting torch head, makes cleaner/quicker work out of thin stuff.

I have a hard time convincing myself to go away from gas

 

[Fuzzydog]

I bought a cheap chinese Longevity brand 220 cutter several years ago when I was doing a project (axle swaps, bumpers, roof rack for a cherokee). project got done and it has sat in my shop the last few years. Just recently I flatbedded my superduty and out came the plasma to get triangle gussets and spring loaded mounting tab parts. It was great to have that machine. I figure it paid for itself with the first projects and any use I get out of it now is freebees. I'll echo others in this thread - for occasional use, go cheap. It would break my heart (and wallet) to have a $1500 plasma sitting unused for years.

 

[Gatorgrizz27]

Well you cheap fuckers have swayed me for 2 primary reasons. One being there are other toys I’d rather have than a $1,500 plasma (already ordered a .300 blackout bolt gun and going to get a Tibor fly reel). Two being I realized if I end up with a plasma table I’m not going to want to pull the torch out and re-calibrate it to make a hand held cut.

So I bought a $200 Warfox unit off Amazon with a 4 year extended warranty. I feel dirty and sick to my stomach for buying a shitty budget Chinese tool, I’ll give it hell and decide if I’m going to send it back. What really pisses me off is it was $199 and sat in my cart for over a week while I debated about it. Was going to order it yesterday morning and got busy, it jumped up $15 mid day which also made the warranty plan up up $15, so I ended up spending $263 on it total.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...itle_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Fwiw, when I want to use my plasma in hand mode, I unplug the machine torch on the table, plug in the hand torch, and I'm good to go. No recalibration needed, no fuss. Plus, the plasma table makes for a great surface to do quick hand cuts on.

 

[I Lean]

Fwiw, when I want to use my plasma in hand mode, I unplug the machine torch on the table, plug in the hand torch, and I'm good to go. No recalibration needed, no fuss. Plus, the plasma table makes for a great surface to do quick hand cuts on.

Exact same here.