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Outdoor Water Line (buried + UV exposure)

[memphis]

Web wheeler
Joined
Jun 6, 2020
Member Number
1867
Messages
750
I should just start a patio build thread... I want run a buried water line from the rear corner of my house to the end of my fence which is about 35-40ft. This way I won't have a hose running across the patio or the gate (it catches and stops it from swinging) and when the kids want to use the sprinkler etc. I can simply pull the hose 20ft down the driveway, clip into the buried line and set up the sprinkler or water the garden. Eventually the wife wants an outdoor sink to wash off fruit or veggies but that's phase 50 of the project.

Being that the line will have the ends exposed to the elements and UV... I'm assuming this means PEX is out of the question. I am not opposed to buying copper. I've been reading about K and L. Based on the run should I UPSIZE my ID to 1/2"? The hose reel is only 1/2" but I am finding a lot of 3/8" copper coils locally. K copper seems to be significantly more expensive but I am wondering if I should just bite that bullet and deal with it...
 
I knew what a fire hydrant was but I had to google yard hydrant 😝

Interesting concept… I’m not worried about frost line for what it’s worth, I’d simply blow it out with my compressor at the end of the season.

I’ll have to look into it more but I’m not planning to bury it more than 18”
 
Transite pipe for sure is the best best.



For real though, just drop some pvc in the ditch and put a damn yard hydrant in. Then, you don't have to blow it out. I wouldn't bother with poly for that short of a run. 2 sticks of pipe and a couple fittings for the 90 and be done. Go have a beer.
 
PEX and a yard hydrant. As long as you keep it out of the sun it's fine. That way there's no glue - just a reel of PEX A.

I direct buried my PEX to my shop which is about 100' away from my house.
 
I'd go with pex. Pex will not freeze as easily as anything else. I've always wrapped my buried pex fittings in sealant. Then go with this plus a Pipe thread / PEX adapter fitting.

www.homedepot.com

K2 Heavy-Duty 3 ft. Frost Proof Yard Hydrant, 5.25 ft. Length, 3 ft. bury depth AWP00001K-3 - The Home Depot

The K2 Lead Free Yard Hydrant handle is constructed of heavy-duty cast iron with brass connections and will connect to your existing fresh-water system, municipal water and private wells. The steel 1 in. pipe is zinc-plated for longer life. This frost proof yard hydrant has a shut-off valve...
www.homedepot.com

For the fittings, basically seal them to death with tube sealant and throw a plastic grocery bag around it so that it can be handled without wrapping yourself in sealant before it's all over with...

It's been 3-4 years so far so good for me doing exactly that when I ran a new waterline to the spring.
 
PEX.....and Frost Proof Hydrant...
I ran PEX all over the horse ranch. Easy peasy.
Or you could put a hose bib below grade in a irrigation box. I have a few of these on the ranch for infrequent use.

I sistered a T-posts to the hydrants and tied it with steel tie-wraps. Another neat tool... :smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin:

This is the tool you will need..
www.ryobitools.com

18V ONE+ PEX Pinch Clamp Tool - RYOBI Tools

18V ONE+ PEX Pinch Clamp Tool
www.ryobitools.com www.ryobitools.com
 
[memphis] said:
I knew what a fire hydrant was but I had to google yard hydrant 😝

Interesting concept… I’m not worried about frost line for what it’s worth, I’d simply blow it out with my compressor at the end of the season.

I’ll have to look into it more but I’m not planning to bury it more than 18”
Click to expand...
Had buried sprinkler system in Utah. Blew it out every year, had king drains, pulled the main valve at the street, etc.
It still fucking froze one year.

Bury it deep, or shallow as fuck so when yours does freeze, you don't have to dig too deep along those 40ft trying to find the split.


ETA: while renting during our house build in Utah, the sprinkler system for the rental house was also frozen (improper winterization before we moved in). It was neat to watch and jump on the 2ft tall water bed under the sod where the pipe was burst.

Those two issues have shown me you either go below frost line, or don't burry at all.
 
Captain Call said:
For real though, just drop some pvc in the ditch and put a damn yard hydrant in. Then, you don't have to blow it out. I wouldn't bother with poly for that short of a run. 2 sticks of pipe and a couple fittings for the 90 and be done. Go have a beer.
Click to expand...
this
 
I'm doing this right now with Pex. I looked at all of it, and Pex was just cheaper, easier, and I think likely better.
 
I did something similar last fall, I ran water to have a hose spigot on the outside of my shop (~100' from the house). Frost line here is 36", I wasn't willing to put that kind of effort or expense into it.

I tee'd it into the sprinkler system, after the backflow preventer & pressure regulator, but before the master valve for the rest of the system. I put a ball valve at the tee, so I could shut off the new line independently. I ran 1" black poly irrigation tube (Lowes has drinking-water rated tubing) buried ~6-8". The above-ground riser is 1/2" galvanized, with an elbow and cheap brass hose bib. The pipe is clamped to the wall of my shop, but you could anchor it to a post also. I've stayed at many campgrounds that are setup the same way.

IMO if you're not going to bury it below the frost line for year round service, there's no point in using a yard hydrant. They're more expensive, plus they're annoying.
 
TennPass said:
ETA: while renting during our house build in Utah, the sprinkler system for the rental house was also frozen (improper winterization before we moved in). It was neat to watch and jump on the 2ft tall water bed under the sod where the pipe was burst.
Click to expand...
"pumping clay" does that too
kinda funny, you can plop a boulder down on it and to get it to sink a couple feet down into there you just bounce on it for a little while, it works its way down into the shit, but only while you're bouncing
when it's static the clay acts somewhat solid
 
billdacat said:
Pex-B... The expander tool for PEX-A is pricey; and the manual tool is hard to use.
But PEX-A fittings have much better flow...
It is what it is....:smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin:
Click to expand...
Pex A is better. Price or difficulty be damned. If you're gonna do it, do it right. Leave pex b for the rv's :laughing:
 
Captain Call said:
Which pex? A or B? :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

A. Uponor is superior. It's what every single respectable plumber uses. 100% plastic, nothing to rot or corrode.

The handyman hacks are the only ones using B around here, and it has more problems. I've seen even stainless bands corrode and pop when left outside.
 
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