I'm not saying they're bad, just that you need to shop for one just like anything else. They're solid, but not perfect.Interesting. Guess I'll re-think that line of though
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Older van vs older 'large' SUV for towing, does chassis matter?
- Thread starter Lil'John
- Start date
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Idi would be good if you want to run it off used motor oil/atf 
Provience
Kill!
That's the plan for my current class c once the body is completely dead or I decide I can afford a replacement
That's the plan for my current class c once the body is completely dead or I decide I can afford a replacement
My end of days plan for Betty as well.
Lil'John
Former #278
Not off the plate... but to me it falls in a little bit of a gray area ;)
I was intending to look for a 20 series or 2500, etc as a base. Then do an incremental upgrade(front axle, rear axle, hydroboost, etc)
I was hoping to find semi-official so I could look like I 'cared' for the insurance side.
Since you can't find it.... how are they gonna find it?
There used to be a webpage at slosh.com featuring a whole bunch of scanned GM dealer brochures for squarebodies. Links seem to be dead. Some of those brochures had very detailed towing info.
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Lil'John
Former #278
I understand you on the insurance... I just want to have something appropriate.Since you can't find it.... how are they gonna find it?
There used to be a webpage at slosh.com featuring a whole bunch of scanned GM dealer brochures for squarebodies. Links seem to be dead. Some of those brochures had very detailed towing info.
For the brochures, I've got you covered:
Has brochures for a LOT of years/models
Some are bad :(I think I'm 90% certain on Suburban 2500(or 3/4 ton) 4wd so time to turn this thread into a Suburban data thread... hopefully.
On bodies, from what I've seen three different backends: barn doors, tailgate with rolldown window, and tailgate with lift-up window. Is there a general guideline for what years had which styles?
My focus is on 97 or earlier diesel OR 75 and older gasser. There is nothing in this requirement that says the engine/trans has to stay the same after it is titled in my name. This requirement is only to avoid dealing with costs of dealing with smog tests.
My big primary requirement is cheap initial purchase price... this is because Calif does their registration based upon initial purchase price. I will 100% of the time choose a $2000 initial price that requires $8000 in updates over a $8000 initial price.
In your opinion, what makes one generation 'better' than the previous? For generations, I've got 6th(67-72), 7th(73-91), and 8th(92-97). For this, please ignore drivetrain; engine, transmission, transfer case, and axles/brakes. Did 6th gen have AC?
Jeffh555
Red Skull Member
I know 7th gen had dual AC (separate evap/fan for the rear) on at least on the donor I once bought for a motor swap. I'd want that because lots of windows means lots of heat.
7th gen had option of tailgate with rolldown windows, or barn doors.
8th gen had option of tailgate with lift up window, or barn doors.
I'd choose barn doors personally, it's nice to be able to get the cherry picker right up against the rear bumper when loading axles. It would also make YotaAtieToo's crane idea work better.
7th gen had option of tailgate with rolldown windows, or barn doors.
8th gen had option of tailgate with lift up window, or barn doors.
I'd choose barn doors personally, it's nice to be able to get the cherry picker right up against the rear bumper when loading axles. It would also make YotaAtieToo's crane idea work better.
Yes to barn doors 100%. The tailgate powered-glass always fucks up.
Earlier square-bodies (70's) the rear was dual-pattern to take barn doors or tailgate. By '84 that was gone - it was prepped for one of the other. Not so easy to switch. My '84 also had AC. Not sure about GMT400 platform.
Here's a 90 with all the cushy features including rear AC (on ceiling).
Earlier square-bodies (70's) the rear was dual-pattern to take barn doors or tailgate. By '84 that was gone - it was prepped for one of the other. Not so easy to switch. My '84 also had AC. Not sure about GMT400 platform.
Here's a 90 with all the cushy features including rear AC (on ceiling).
Lil'John
Former #278
Interesting that tailgate was optional... but also good since I was leaning to barn doors. Although, on FJ40s, I hated them with a passion.Yes to barn doors 100%. The tailgate powered-glass always fucks up.
Earlier square-bodies (70's) the rear was dual-pattern to take barn doors or tailgate. By '84 that was gone - it was prepped for one of the other. Not so easy to switch. My '84 also had AC. Not sure about GMT400 platform.
Here's a 90 with all the cushy features including rear AC (on ceiling).
Also good to know that a bunch of 7th gen were 'easy' to convert. Opens trying to find a specific configuration.
Sadly, the 90 is a wee bit out of the range where I was looking to go
Barn doors on anything pre 00 for the simplicity though they do still mess up. Post 99 the tailgates all fold up so still can get a cherry picker up to the bumper, they did have barn doors till 02 or so on some.
Lil'John
Former #278
I think I'm going to focus on 7th gen(73-91) As it turns out, my wife had a 73 and earlier 80s before we met and liked them I may pivot to 6th or 8th if a steal comes up.
When I start shopping, I will be focusing in on 75 and earlier OR 97 with diesel to avoid Calif smog test exemption. I will be looking for 4wd.
I will upgrade the axles to a dana 60 and disk 14 bolt along with brake master.
Are there specific 'jargon' I should be using when searching? I've seen k15, k25, v1500, or v2500 mentioned.
I know they will be 30-50 years old so I'm not worried about showroom virgin finds. So aside from standard used car checkouts, what are some area I should focus on?
Are their rust areas I should focus on?
Are there options I should look for or avoid?
How difficult is it to add AC? There is almost a statistical zero chance of me having more than a single passenger so I'm not too worried about the rear AC.
Are there any specific year ranges I should be looking at?
Is there a difference between frames of a 1/2ton and 3/4ton?
Anyone have an specific end year for the dual-pattern rear opening for both barn doors and tailgate?
I may pivot to 6th or 8th if a steal comes up.When I start shopping, I will be focusing in on 75 and earlier OR 97 with diesel to avoid Calif smog test exemption. I will be looking for 4wd.
I will upgrade the axles to a dana 60 and disk 14 bolt along with brake master.
Are there specific 'jargon' I should be using when searching? I've seen k15, k25, v1500, or v2500 mentioned.
I know they will be 30-50 years old so I'm not worried about showroom virgin finds. So aside from standard used car checkouts, what are some area I should focus on?
Are their rust areas I should focus on?
Are there options I should look for or avoid?
How difficult is it to add AC? There is almost a statistical zero chance of me having more than a single passenger so I'm not too worried about the rear AC.
Are there any specific year ranges I should be looking at?
Is there a difference between frames of a 1/2ton and 3/4ton?
Anyone have an specific end year for the dual-pattern rear opening for both barn doors and tailgate?
Jeffh555
Red Skull Member
K or V is 4wd
C or R is 2wd
20, 25, 2500 are all 3/4 tons
10, 15, 1500 are all 1/2 tons (and diesels were rare)
There's a year cutoff when GM switched from one to another, but people are idiots, so you're gonna have to search through all the shit.
I think/hope most sellers know what fuel it takes.
C or R is 2wd
20, 25, 2500 are all 3/4 tons
10, 15, 1500 are all 1/2 tons (and diesels were rare)
There's a year cutoff when GM switched from one to another, but people are idiots, so you're gonna have to search through all the shit.
I think/hope most sellers know what fuel it takes.
Lil'John
Former #278
Thanks for the clarification... so a suburban could be a k20 or k25
Here I thought the 10s and 20s were trucksIn some cases, I've not seen fuel type identified. I'm starting to look for 'factory' engine bay pictures showing the 6.2L and 6.5L diesels. Not oddly, if it has a 454, they proudly announce that
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
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Lil'John
Former #278
I've found plenty of idiots in any brand.GM people are just about the worst I've seen about actually knowing what they have.
But it seems like the usual 'issue'; if I'm shopping for something VERY specific and end up on a specialized forum, the cost goes up quickly. Somewhat same issue if I'm shopping for a deal. If I end up using special codes or the like, the cost is a bit more.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Lots of 6.2 trucks were swapped to gas V8s already, so keep an eye out for that as well.
Lil'John
Former #278
Great point. But in all honesty, as long as the reg is current and reflects it being diesel, the current drivetrain doesn't really make a difference.
I forget the process of going from No-op registration to active... I want to say haul to DMV to verify vin and drive off.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Great point. But in all honesty, as long as the reg is current and reflects it being diesel, the current drivetrain doesn't really make a difference.
That's my point, because if idiots don't know what model it is, they may not know it's a diesel title. May ask about smog if you're suspicious?
You can get a 1 day permit, so you don't have to trailer it.
Jeffh555
Red Skull Member
You may want to double check that. I believe that used to be the case, but last one I did, probably a decade ago, required a brake and light inspection, not sure if anything has changed.Great point. But in all honesty, as long as the reg is current and reflects it being diesel, the current drivetrain doesn't really make a difference.
I forget the process of going from No-op registration to active... I want to say haul to DMV to verify vin and drive off.
Lil'John
Former #278
Very good point. Is there a vin code that says diesel?
I just meant in terms of what was required.
I've never done it so I'm not sure. Brake and light sounds about right. I just wasn't sure if there was a 'power train' verification.
Jeffh555
Red Skull Member
I've had a VIN verification require that they verify the serial number on the motor. This was a motorcycle.I've never done it so I'm not sure. Brake and light sounds about right. I just wasn't sure if there was a 'power train' verification.
Unless it's a great deal, I think it's not worth it to deal with that mess.
Lil'John
Former #278
Two of my FJ55s required a vin check. One was in state and one was from Georgia. In both cases, they looked at frame horn and engine bay plate. Both had one day permits to get them to DMV.
I'm not sure if car/truck have a vin on the engine.
Motiracer38
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2023
- Member Number
- 6381
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- 82
I was looking briefly for a 95-97 GM diesel for all the same reasons and the level of stupidity in the adds got annoying. On these the front bumper is a telltale sign with big vent openings but I'm not sure if the earlier ones had anything like that.