OE Electric Parking Brake bible: We're looking at different rotors, add on parking brakes and also integrated electric parking brakes.

[FordFascist]

With this setup, you would be controlling one brake at a time, disconnecting the control voltage of the one you don't use. Worst case senario, I unbolt the motor and they are normal calipers again. I plan on running The controller from post #75, so the DPDT switch only sees control voltage and the controller cuts out at 10A in each direction. It should move the motors till the limit is hit and yes, it will cycle longer. I will need to figure out how many amps that the calipers can handle and how it will affect the calipers moving that far in and out. I'm betting it's a 16A motor from some of the Ford Forums. I read that the Teslas go up to 16A as well. Willwood electric brakes have a 40A fuse.


Put me down for one.
I need a parking brake to pass state inspection. Without calipers, I'd like to be in $100 in controlling cutting/parking brakes.

You probably want to play with these a bit more. For clamping the 10A limit switch will work, but the issue is topping out the jackscrew in reverse isn't good for these things. You also will have a long time to make the brake work when you try to re-engage it. You need to monitor amperage for engagement and timed for disengagement.

You don't just remove the motor on these to make it work like a hydraulic caliper again. I'm not sure where you are getting that from. You have to back the e-brake mechanism off and it's easiest to do with the motor.

TL;DR you are going to need a controller for these calipers unless you want to risk frying them.

 

[Thatg9659]

So the dumb way to do this would be dpdt switches a relay and current limiting resistors? Probably too quick of a power spike to use an ammeter reliably.

 

[bad zuki]

You probably want to play with these a bit more. For clamping the 10A limit switch will work, but the issue is topping out the jackscrew in reverse isn't good for these things. You also will have a long time to make the brake work when you try to re-engage it.

Good point.

You don't just remove the motor on these to make it work like a hydraulic caliper again. I'm not sure where you are getting that from. You have to back the e-brake mechanism off and it's easiest to do with the motor.

For the teslas you are using, no, for the f150s it’s a dual purpose caliper with external mounted motor. I’m only going to have 1 caliper per wheel.

TL;DR you are going to need a controller for these calipers unless you want to risk frying them.

Sign me up for v2

 

[arse_sidewards]

So the dumb way to do this would be dpdt switches a relay and current limiting resistors? Probably too quick of a power spike to use an ammeter reliably.

Congratulations, you've just described an old school driver's side power window switch with auto up/down

 

[Thatg9659]

Congratulations, you've just described an old school driver's side power window switch with auto up/down

Friend builds battle bots, a competitor was using an Arduino to control all of the functions. It worked sorta, he convinced them to use switches and relays, they did their control improved enough to begin scoring points.

Even the speeduino open source ecm I’m still trying to figure out how to use is reported to glitch from time to time.

 

[FordFascist]

Good point.



For the teslas you are using, no, for the f150s it’s a dual purpose caliper with external mounted motor. I’m only going to have 1 caliper per wheel.


Sign me up for v2

Did you miss the part that I also did this with F150 calipers for my Early Bronco?

And yes when I get this shit working I’ll open source the code, wiring diagram and enclosures for the IBB because I suck at monetizing my time

 

[bad zuki]

The window style controller will not work with the hydraulic and electric caliper.

Did you miss the part that I also did this with F150 calipers for my Early Bronco?

yes, When you did the power draw/load video. How many amps did it draw when reversing?

And yes when I get this shit working I’ll open source the code, wiring diagram and enclosures for the IBB because I suck at monetizing my time

You got it man, and I totally get it.

Also, 2020 dodge 1500 is 6x5.5 lug not 5x5.5. I ordered 2015 1500 rotors.

I'm just going to use the relays to bump the brakes off for 1-2 seconds. I could tie the brakes on to the park safety switch down the road, but that's not going to get this on the trail. New schematic.This one looks more like a dick.

 

[bad zuki]

2018+ F150 Parking brake Pigtails are WPT-1669.

 

[Grendel]

Ok, so I have the 14b installed in my CJ7. Do I buy a controller from one of you, or the one posted earlier?

 

[bad zuki]

Ok, so I have the 14b installed in my CJ7. Do I buy a controller from one of you, or the one posted earlier?

If you want a controller and need it now, the $300 one, post #63, will probably work great. For now, I’ll be doing it like 2 window motors, it’s fine for comp/trail rig, but not a good permanent solution. (It will probably be permanent though). The motor controllers I bought are just a 2 way reversing relay. No load sensor or safety’s.

I’ve attached a video of the calipers running backwards for a while. The calipers will hit their limit of travel and the motor spins the barrel in the caliper as a safety precaution. This will probably eat the seals of the caliper up faster. My amp clamp is Mia or I’d check how many amps the draw.

 

[Grendel]

Yeah, I've been playing with mine, via a power probe.

Not sure that's a road going solution for me.

 

[FordFascist]

I've been working on my solution today - discovered that one of my used calipers motor seized which would explain the issue with it on the Rubicon a few weeks ago.

My original design utilized too many hard switches which will cause EMF when the circuit is opened. You basically create two giant ignition coils and send a large AC voltage spike through your wires. My newest build has AC snubbers and a MOSFET H-bridge controller which will slowly ramp down the power compared to a mechanical relay and is not seeing that huge spike in voltage.

Here's my code that I'm running. Still working on a wiring diagram. That shit takes forever. I should have the new caliper motor next week to finish re-installing this.

Arduino NANO
Dual Channel H-Bridge Controller 30A

 

[FordFascist]

I updated my code and updated the enclosure with thicker walls and an access panel to reprogram as needed. I also replaced the fried caliper motor that necessitated a rev2.

For those interested, I put in a tapering PWM value after 1.5 seconds on the engagement then averaged the amperage measurement between the two calipers.

The thought process behind this is that an Arduino can only process one loop at a time which means it has to measure one caliper and react to the amperage in that loop before going to the next. I guess it's OK to engage one caliper and then wait a few seconds to engage the other if you were really precisely measuring the current. If I wanted to use something precise, I would probably have two controllers - one for each side and then have them independently manage the calipers - which is what the factory does.

For now I have both calipers engaging at near 100% for 1.5 seconds (which removes the inrush amperage from the measurements), then tapers from 100% voltage to zero over 2.5 seconds with an interrupt programmed at an average amperage of 10A between the calipers measured over three readings. The caliper essentially stops at about 8 volts so the risk of frying the caliper goes way down. It's pretty easy to change the tapered value in the code so I can make adjustments as needed. Your biggest risk with these types of calipers is backing it out too much, not necessarily hammering them down.

 

[FordFascist]

Here's the MSPaint masterpiece of wiring diagram for all of you interested parties:

 

[Gumbybronco]

I'm almost finished with my current iteration of a controller. I have my brackets built for the 14 bolt using the Tesla Model S/X rear caliper. There are spacers in the caliper to accomodate GM 3/4 rotors.

First 3d print of this. The bend radius is too tight to do a SCS so I opted to make it in in separate pieces: 2 pieces and a spacer out of 3/8. The bottom piece uses the top bolt of the existing bracket to locate it and then welds on. I have yet to take this thing apart to do all of this yet.

Rev 1 of the parking brake controller. I was trying to figure out why my printer wasn't printing PETG very well so this first iteration of the case turned out a little rough. The next one is printing right now and should be a lot nicer.

Do you have a file for your brackets? Or willing to sell me a set?
Thanks

 

[FordFascist]

Here you go. I'm a terrible business man. * do this at your own risk. I cannot guarantee it's going to fit your axle.

Cut this in .375" on Send Cut Send to get the depth right. Bolt size is 1/2 - 13.

 

[Grendel]

Here you go. I'm a terrible business man. * do this at your own risk. I cannot guarantee it's going to fit your axle.

Cut this in .375" on Send Cut Send to get the depth right. Bolt size is 1/2 - 13.

Please post these in the resources section?

 

[Gumbybronco]

Here you go. I'm a terrible business man. * do this at your own risk. I cannot guarantee it's going to fit your axle.

Cut this in .375" on Send Cut Send to get the depth right. Bolt size is 1/2 - 13.

Thank you!

 

[FordFascist]

Please post these in the resources section?

Done.

Tesla Model S / Y caliper to 14 Bolt axle

Attached are the DXF drawings to add Tesla brake calipers to\ 14 bolt axles using 3/4 Suburban rotors. These are for factory drum brake axles converted to disc brakes. These are sized for .375 thickness. I used SendCutSend to cut these. The...

irate4x4.com

 

[Gumbybronco]

I’m getting ready to install this on the buggy. I’ll run separate L and R wires all the way to the dash and may mod for cutting brakes later. I just need a good parking brake for now.
I don’t think I need the circuit breaker with the one touch window module.
I’m good with simple analog wiring, but open to feedback.

 

[FordFascist]

I’m getting ready to install this on the buggy. I’ll run separate L and R wires all the way to the dash and may mod for cutting brakes later. I just need a good parking brake for now.
I don’t think I need the circuit breaker with the one touch window module.
I’m good with simple analog wiring, but open to feedback.

While I personally don't like running the calipers on the same circuit, it will probably work but you will likely burn up the window controller. You will need AC snubbers for each of those calipers. It will burn out the contacts on window controller if you don't.

 

[Gumbybronco]

While I personally don't like running the calipers on the same circuit, it will probably work but you will likely burn up the window controller. You will need AC snubbers for each of those calipers. It will burn out the contacts on window controller if you don't.

Where would be the best place to split my circuit?

 

[FordFascist]

Where would be the best place to split my circuit?

No.

It doesn't work that way. You need two separate controllers for each caliper.

Also you will need to not back the calipers out all the way with that circuit. They will self-destruct if you back them out too far.

 

[Gumbybronco]

No.

It doesn't work that way. You need two separate controllers for each caliper.

Also you will need to not back the calipers out all the way with that circuit. They will self-destruct if you back them out too far.

Ok, thanks. I’ll revise my electrical plan.
I saw what you put together for a controller, but I’ve never done anything with arduino. Is there a specific program needed for it?

On a side note, I test fit the axle brackets and I needed a little more room between my coilovers and link mount, so I edited the axle bracket dxf file to have the same mounting holes and a 20 & 40 degree option. I’ll upload it once it comes from send-cut-send and I can confirm that it’s good. Thanks again for the file and sharing your work.

 

[FordFascist]

Ok, thanks. I’ll revise my electrical plan.
I saw what you put together for a controller, but I’ve never done anything with arduino. Is there a specific program needed for it?

On a side note, I test fit the axle brackets and I needed a little more room between my coilovers and link mount, so I edited the axle bracket dxf file to have the same mounting holes and a 20 & 40 degree option. I’ll upload it once it comes from send-cut-send and I can confirm that it’s good. Thanks again for the file and sharing your work.

Arduino isn't that hard. You would basically copy paste the code I have. All you need is a programming cable (USB-Mini) and the Arduino IDE ( Software ). Bonus points if you use the same Arduino Nano boards. I didn't take too much development on low power mode so my code is meant to be keyed.

Awesome news on the hole spacing. Get us some pictures of this in action.

 

[Gumbybronco]

This is a shot of the edited dxf.
I want to test it before uploading it to the resources.

I”ll order the boards you linked and plan on going that route.

 

[Motiracer38]

Also you will need to not back the calipers out all the way with that circuit. They will self-destruct if you back them out too far.

I tried taking apart my calipers to understand this the last time you posted it but didn't want to risk compromising seals and stopped. Is it a travel issue or a force issue? Seems like you could put a resistor to limit the current one the retract with a diode providing a non limited actuation path.

 

[FordFascist]

I tried taking apart my calipers to understand this the last time you posted it but didn't want to risk compromising seals and stopped. Is it a travel issue or a force issue? Seems like you could put a resistor to limit the current one the retract with a diode providing a non limited actuation path.

You probably need to think a bit more on that. Retraction requires a lot of torque to pull the pads out of the bind of the jackscrew mechanism - you can't do that with lower voltage alone.

Topping out the caliper will likely ruin the screw or disengage the jackscrew mechanism. This is why you need a timed retraction. For clamping you simply need an amperage maximum to cut the circuit. None of this will be easily accomplished by an analog circuit.

 

[Rangerrod]

I’m getting ready to completely rewire my rig so I’m going to incorporate the relays for electric parking brakes now. Going to use a switch pod to fire this. Rated for 10 amps and it’s smaller and easier to wire than a few relays.

Quoting myself to keep my thoughts together. What about using two delay timers with this controller to get it to cycle back and forth?

Hella Time Delay on Operate Relay - 12V DC

Looking for an adjustable relay that can maintain a power supply for as short as 2 seconds or as long as 3 minutes? Shop Del City's 12 volt time delay relay.

www.delcity.net

 

[arse_sidewards]

I would burn out a $10 window switch before I tried anything fancy. You never know, it might last 10yr.