OE Electric Parking Brake bible: We're looking at different rotors, add on parking brakes and also integrated electric parking brakes.

[FordFascist]

With this setup, you would be controlling one brake at a time, disconnecting the control voltage of the one you don't use. Worst case senario, I unbolt the motor and they are normal calipers again. I plan on running The controller from post #75, so the DPDT switch only sees control voltage and the controller cuts out at 10A in each direction. It should move the motors till the limit is hit and yes, it will cycle longer. I will need to figure out how many amps that the calipers can handle and how it will affect the calipers moving that far in and out. I'm betting it's a 16A motor from some of the Ford Forums. I read that the Teslas go up to 16A as well. Willwood electric brakes have a 40A fuse.


Put me down for one.
I need a parking brake to pass state inspection. Without calipers, I'd like to be in $100 in controlling cutting/parking brakes.

You probably want to play with these a bit more. For clamping the 10A limit switch will work, but the issue is topping out the jackscrew in reverse isn't good for these things. You also will have a long time to make the brake work when you try to re-engage it. You need to monitor amperage for engagement and timed for disengagement.

You don't just remove the motor on these to make it work like a hydraulic caliper again. I'm not sure where you are getting that from. You have to back the e-brake mechanism off and it's easiest to do with the motor.

TL;DR you are going to need a controller for these calipers unless you want to risk frying them.

 

[Thatg9659]

So the dumb way to do this would be dpdt switches a relay and current limiting resistors? Probably too quick of a power spike to use an ammeter reliably.

 

[bad zuki]

You probably want to play with these a bit more. For clamping the 10A limit switch will work, but the issue is topping out the jackscrew in reverse isn't good for these things. You also will have a long time to make the brake work when you try to re-engage it.

Good point.

You don't just remove the motor on these to make it work like a hydraulic caliper again. I'm not sure where you are getting that from. You have to back the e-brake mechanism off and it's easiest to do with the motor.

For the teslas you are using, no, for the f150s it’s a dual purpose caliper with external mounted motor. I’m only going to have 1 caliper per wheel.

TL;DR you are going to need a controller for these calipers unless you want to risk frying them.

Sign me up for v2

 

[arse_sidewards]

So the dumb way to do this would be dpdt switches a relay and current limiting resistors? Probably too quick of a power spike to use an ammeter reliably.

Congratulations, you've just described an old school driver's side power window switch with auto up/down

 

[Thatg9659]

Congratulations, you've just described an old school driver's side power window switch with auto up/down

Friend builds battle bots, a competitor was using an Arduino to control all of the functions. It worked sorta, he convinced them to use switches and relays, they did their control improved enough to begin scoring points.

Even the speeduino open source ecm I’m still trying to figure out how to use is reported to glitch from time to time.

 

[FordFascist]

Good point.



For the teslas you are using, no, for the f150s it’s a dual purpose caliper with external mounted motor. I’m only going to have 1 caliper per wheel.


Sign me up for v2

Did you miss the part that I also did this with F150 calipers for my Early Bronco?

And yes when I get this shit working I’ll open source the code, wiring diagram and enclosures for the IBB because I suck at monetizing my time

 

[bad zuki]

The window style controller will not work with the hydraulic and electric caliper.

Did you miss the part that I also did this with F150 calipers for my Early Bronco?

yes, When you did the power draw/load video. How many amps did it draw when reversing?

And yes when I get this shit working I’ll open source the code, wiring diagram and enclosures for the IBB because I suck at monetizing my time

You got it man, and I totally get it.

Also, 2020 dodge 1500 is 6x5.5 lug not 5x5.5. I ordered 2015 1500 rotors.

I'm just going to use the relays to bump the brakes off for 1-2 seconds. I could tie the brakes on to the park safety switch down the road, but that's not going to get this on the trail. New schematic.This one looks more like a dick.

 

[bad zuki]

2018+ F150 Parking brake Pigtails are WPT-1669.

 

[Grendel]

Ok, so I have the 14b installed in my CJ7. Do I buy a controller from one of you, or the one posted earlier?

 

[bad zuki]

Ok, so I have the 14b installed in my CJ7. Do I buy a controller from one of you, or the one posted earlier?

If you want a controller and need it now, the $300 one, post #63, will probably work great. For now, I’ll be doing it like 2 window motors, it’s fine for comp/trail rig, but not a good permanent solution. (It will probably be permanent though). The motor controllers I bought are just a 2 way reversing relay. No load sensor or safety’s.

I’ve attached a video of the calipers running backwards for a while. The calipers will hit their limit of travel and the motor spins the barrel in the caliper as a safety precaution. This will probably eat the seals of the caliper up faster. My amp clamp is Mia or I’d check how many amps the draw.

 

[Grendel]

Yeah, I've been playing with mine, via a power probe.

Not sure that's a road going solution for me.

 

[FordFascist]

I've been working on my solution today - discovered that one of my used calipers motor seized which would explain the issue with it on the Rubicon a few weeks ago.

My original design utilized too many hard switches which will cause EMF when the circuit is opened. You basically create two giant ignition coils and send a large AC voltage spike through your wires. My newest build has AC snubbers and a MOSFET H-bridge controller which will slowly ramp down the power compared to a mechanical relay and is not seeing that huge spike in voltage.

Here's my code that I'm running. Still working on a wiring diagram. That shit takes forever. I should have the new caliper motor next week to finish re-installing this.

Arduino NANO
Dual Channel H-Bridge Controller 30A

 

[FordFascist]

I updated my code and updated the enclosure with thicker walls and an access panel to reprogram as needed. I also replaced the fried caliper motor that necessitated a rev2.

For those interested, I put in a tapering PWM value after 1.5 seconds on the engagement then averaged the amperage measurement between the two calipers.

The thought process behind this is that an Arduino can only process one loop at a time which means it has to measure one caliper and react to the amperage in that loop before going to the next. I guess it's OK to engage one caliper and then wait a few seconds to engage the other if you were really precisely measuring the current. If I wanted to use something precise, I would probably have two controllers - one for each side and then have them independently manage the calipers - which is what the factory does.

For now I have both calipers engaging at near 100% for 1.5 seconds (which removes the inrush amperage from the measurements), then tapers from 100% voltage to zero over 2.5 seconds with an interrupt programmed at an average amperage of 10A between the calipers measured over three readings. The caliper essentially stops at about 8 volts so the risk of frying the caliper goes way down. It's pretty easy to change the tapered value in the code so I can make adjustments as needed. Your biggest risk with these types of calipers is backing it out too much, not necessarily hammering them down.

 

[FordFascist]

Here's the MSPaint masterpiece of wiring diagram for all of you interested parties: