If you can swing the $$, I'd run Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the case and range box. I run it in my wifes JKUR t-case, the t-case on my 97 F250 and in the t-case for my SxS short course car. It's REALLY good stuff and I highly recommend it.
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On this note, funny you mentioned that.. my front case did have some light marks where my range hub touched the planetary. But it didn't generate enough heat to burn pads.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
any of these work?
These parts are pretty damaged. But the biggest concern being the amount of metal amd debris that went through my oil pump. Can't remove it amd clean it.
On the note of the thrust washers, if the load is too much in say double low and its cracking them? But on the other hand, if the range hub is applying pressure to the planetary, it could be heating it enough to destroy the rear thrust washer... the only thing bugging me about that, is the detent system in the transfer case is pretty stout. It's hard to keep it partially applied when the shifter doesn't have a detent. And in a direction it's not meant to go.
pinchegringo
Well-known member
The second case is a non issue unless it's pushing on the main case input c clip or the c clip is missing. Likewise the rear driveshaft could push on the rear output shaft causing problems.
These things are tough and you have something pushing on something.
These things are tough and you have something pushing on something.
Had a meeting today with somebody smarter and more experienced in this than I am. His verdict was the doubler adapter may not be concentric and causing the shaft to oscillate and cause excess heat in the bearing and input shaft. The splines on the doubler intermediate shaft show an hour glass wear pattern. Going to do some measurements and see how far off it.
Most likely as this is a different case. I just got this one. It's stock. I doubt it's out of round.
NDCjeepsmith
Red Skull Member
Wow, that's kinda an odd finding. Glad you got to it, idk if I'd ever think of that.
Is that a well known manufactured ring or a homebrew deal?
Is that a well known manufactured ring or a homebrew deal?
It
Was from a company. Itnwas thier first generation kit. I reached out about them being off when I first got it. I thought I fixed it, but apparently I wasn't close enough. I reached out to the owner and he working with me for a new kit which has alotnof improvements from mine like 5 years ago.
Got my new kit ordered. Owner of FST is a stand up guy. Highly recommend. Rebuilt my front NP233 case, and it has a 4 pinion planetary. Started rebuilding my rear NP241 tonight. New bearings and seals through out. 6 pinion planetary added in. Double checked that it had both thrust washers this time. Lol..
Stephen
HMFIC@ORD
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2020
- Member Number
- 3231
- Messages
- 14
It would be really smart to dial the front and back of your underdrive box in to each other and then put a couple alignment pins between your adapter plate and the original cut down housing. That way you know those parts are lined up. We built a handful of "chop boxes" years ago and had a method of locating the center so this stuff stays under control but all you can do now is dial them in on a mill and pin them for location.
The pinning of them was a discussion that I was advised on already. Going to try and use the original corner dowel. Then try and add a pin in on the side welded on block.