Was Like that way when I got it, no crank no start maybe helped the priceSo put it together right and use glue type heat shrink.![]()
![Grinpimp :grinpimp: :grinpimp:](https://data.irate4x4.com/assets/smilies/grinpimp.gif)
Was Like that way when I got it, no crank no start maybe helped the priceSo put it together right and use glue type heat shrink.![]()
careful bout that exploding battery terminal.Was Like that way when I got it, no crank no start maybe helped the priceI got some fancy BMW X5 battery leads to someday put on it.
most are just using diodes. That's why the voltage drop.What's the internal logic that average battery isolators use to connect and disconnect the circuits? I've always known about them, but not what makes them tick. I just read one description that essentially connects the batteries together between (appx) 12.5v-16v, then disconnects them if they go above or below that range.
Is it really that simple, or is that just a very simple version? I always figured there was more sensing going on for some reason
I'd use a quality Cole-Hersee switch vs that thing. They aren't much more $$ and a good chunka chunka switch.I use one for these mounted in a plastic wall switch box.
that interrupts the power. I run a ground back to the battery. 4 gauge is plenty. Run the hot in plastic conduit/wire loom, pex scraps, etc.
recently I attached a small Prius agm battery to an Engel fridge and used a lighter plug to charge it when the truck was running. Worked great but not cost effective unless you have recently parted out a Prius.
Nothing wrong with those either. I think if it is pulling more than 100 amps he has a problem, though.I'd use a quality Cole-Hersee switch vs that thing. They aren't much more $$ and a good chunka chunka switch.
Had a truck nearly burn down from a crappy master switch. It melted down and grounded out. Don't remember the brand, but it was very similar to that plastic Hella version.Nothing wrong with those either. I think if it is pulling more than 100 amps he has a problem, though.
So every component and wire it hot? That sounds sparktacular.I started putting the switches on the ground vs power after that if at all possible too.
Agreed, I've seen those hella style and they are chincy.I'd use a quality Cole-Hersee switch vs that thing. They aren't much more $$ and a good chunka chunka switch.
Unless you are talking about Cu clad Al, that statement is complete B.S.Yup and couple that with using QUALITY wire makes it work. Stereo 4 gauge will flow better than automotive grade 0 gauge.
So 22 gauge solid core wire flows the same current as 00 1000 strand if the 22 gauge has higher temp insulation?Unless you are talking about Cu clad Al, that statement is complete B.S.
Cu. vs. Cu. , the voltage drop is virtually the same for all AWG's. Insulation temperature rating is what changes the maximum current rating.
Nothing will be hot if you remove the ground, but the alternator will keep the engine running if the deadman switch is switching the ground...So every component and wire it hot? That sounds sparktacular.
I guess you'd need a shorter jumper wire to test anything, though![]()
How can it charge without a circuit?Nothing will be hot if you remove the ground, but the alternator will keep the engine running if the deadman switch is switching the ground...
I don't understand that, it's just how we have to wire racecars. If you unhook the negative battery cable of a carburetorated vehicle it will continue to run.How can it charge without a circuit?
How can it charge without a circuit?
Fuck that doesn't make since to me anymore and I can't remember how I wired the deadman switch last.I don't understand that, it's just how we have to wire racecars. If you unhook the negative battery cable of a carburetorated vehicle it will continue to run.
Ahh, my brain fart - I read "putting the switches on the ground" and thought about circuit switches, not main disconnectNothing will be hot if you remove the ground
Unless you are talking about Cu clad Al, that statement is complete B.S.
Cu. vs. Cu. , the voltage drop is virtually the same for all AWG's. Insulation temperature rating is what changes the maximum current rating.
?So 22 gauge solid core wire flows the same current as 00 1000 strand if the 22 gauge has higher temp insulation?
You know as well as I do that typical automotive wire has 10-12 strands and the wire quantity inside the insulation is half of what audio grade cable is.
0.7 VDC is normal for a diode. Way worse than 'slight'most isolators have a slight voltage drop to the aux battery. You magnify that when you put the isolator at the long end of the battery cable that's already induced a voltage drop.
You're missing the point completely. Good quality audio cable will have easily double the amount of copper vs automotive grade in the same given gauge.?
22awg solid is rated for more current than 22awg stranded with the same insulation.
"Automotive grade wire" if you are talking about SXL has an even better rating of 125C.
What are you calling "audio cable"? I'd guess the insulation is not as good as SXL.
Cu purity for the wire we're talking about is virtualy irrelevant.
that's why they run the alt wire to the isolator, then the volt sense wire to one of the two batteriesmost isolators have a slight voltage drop to the aux battery. You magnify that when you put the isolator at the long end of the battery cable that's already induced a voltage drop.
fine strand wire only matters at high frequenciesYup and couple that with using QUALITY wire makes it work. Stereo 4 gauge will flow better than automotive grade 0 gauge.
fine strand wire only matters at high frequencies
at 60hz, skin depth is like 5/16" iirc
DC, it is infinite
Correct but you're still missing my point that I apparently suck at explaining. Good quality 4 gauge audio cable will be easily 3/8" of copper wire (I use OFC wire not that copper clad shit) while automotive grade 4 gauge will be 3/16-1/4" of copper inside of it.fine strand wire only matters at high frequencies
at 60hz, skin depth is like 5/16" iirc
DC, it is infinite
also, lots of stereo wire is copper plated aluminum which is really good for corroding completely off even with good double wall heatshrink on it
The cheapest source of decent quality 2AWG at present is HF jumper cables.Add a breaker if you want. run 2AWG and you'll be fine for pretty much everything.
I use one for these mounted in a plastic wall switch box.
that interrupts the power. I run a ground back to the battery. 4 gauge is plenty. Run the hot in plastic conduit/wire loom, pex scraps, etc.
recently I attached a small Prius agm battery to an Engel fridge and used a lighter plug to charge it when the truck was running. Worked great but not cost effective unless you have recently parted out a Prius.
The point of fusing them is to prevent fire when you have 20 feet of positive cable running all over the vehicle to a fridge etc in the rear. It can be pinched or abraded by a grounded chassis or body part and create a short. If the battery or load is a foot away, no big deal. there is t much to go wrong.I love that everybody is fighting in the comments on how to wire 2 simple batteries in parallel.
Harry Johnson : Look at the OEM wiring on a HD truck with dual batteries and copy that. If you want to make the batteries independent from each other, just add a battery switch in the middle. There is no breaker or fuse between your battery and the starter and this is arguably a much more stressed wire compared to the ones you're gonna put between the 2 batteries. So I don't see the point of fusing those ones.
the OEM wires are also ran properly and with great care to make sure that they don't chafe or get damaged.I love that everybody is fighting in the comments on how to wire 2 simple batteries in parallel.
Harry Johnson : Look at the OEM wiring on a HD truck with dual batteries and copy that. If you want to make the batteries independent from each other, just add a battery switch in the middle. There is no breaker or fuse between your battery and the starter and this is arguably a much more stressed wire compared to the ones you're gonna put between the 2 batteries. So I don't see the point of fusing those ones.