Provience
Kill!
At some point in the past 30 years, the motorhome RV and camper industry went away from CO & Propane detector alarms which controlled a propane shutoff solenoid valve. Replacements don't seem to be available according to a few internet searches as everybody is out of stock, plus they are nearly $300 for the things. Because coaches are not "enclosed spaces", the modern and hip thing is to just use a detector alarm only and not have the shutoff valve. Since that is what can be bought, that is what i'm going with. My shutoff valve still functions, so the plan is to keep it rather than replace it with some straight pipe.
existing unit, CCI Controls Pre-Tell 2 model 7719. It has shit the bed and doesn't let out 12v to open the solenoid.
Picture of the back, MFG date NOV 1998, they are supposed to be replaced every 5 years. 24 is a pretty good run. 3 wires coming out the back are RED 12v from Battery, Gray 12v from shore power, Yellow 12v to solenoid.
And the new model Safe-T-Alert by MTI Industries 35-742-BR 35 Series Dual LP/CO Alarm - Flush Mount, Brown 2 wire, power and ground only, off Amazon for $70, with a chinese special Single Pole Single Throw switch and a 5 amp push to reset circuit breaker. $90 total for parts, with a few SPST switches and breakers extra. I went with this detector as it looked to be the closest to the existing unit in the picture and it had the lowest advertised consumption in the price point at 85ma...however, looking at the MTI website right now shows it at 108mA. Either way, not much. Ended up being all most the exact same size as the old unit, close enough i didn't have to redrill for screws, just a slight angle. https://www.mtiindustries.com/product/35-series-flush-mount/
For some reason I couldn't find any of my strippers or crimpers or combos, or solder
so pliers and razor blade it is, ended up needing to redo about 3 connections as the project went on.
And here it is all wired together. From the 12v battery supply to the "line" terminal of the 5 amp circuit breaker, then from the "load" on the CB to the "off" side of the switch (not that it matters) and from the "on" side of the switch both the Yellow for solenoid on and Red for power to detector. Solenoid is grounded through the chassis and the detector gets a new ground ran right to the battery (-) terminal, as it is right close by. This way I'm not leaving the detector on all the time (as it is intended) so that there is no concern of it going off when nobody is around
Drilled some 7/16" holes above in the plastic used to hold a fire extinguisher area to mount them, went 1" apart and 3/4" away from my solar charge controller. Because they are metric fittings and I drill standard, it was just tight enough in the plastic that I could "thread" both of them in.
and just because these both came with waterproof covers, I went ahead and put those on also
and proof that it all works
anyways, so there is just one way to skin the cat if you ever need to replace your 3 wire detector and cutoff solenoid controller with a 2 wire CO/LPG detector only.
existing unit, CCI Controls Pre-Tell 2 model 7719. It has shit the bed and doesn't let out 12v to open the solenoid.
Picture of the back, MFG date NOV 1998, they are supposed to be replaced every 5 years. 24 is a pretty good run. 3 wires coming out the back are RED 12v from Battery, Gray 12v from shore power, Yellow 12v to solenoid.
And the new model Safe-T-Alert by MTI Industries 35-742-BR 35 Series Dual LP/CO Alarm - Flush Mount, Brown 2 wire, power and ground only, off Amazon for $70, with a chinese special Single Pole Single Throw switch and a 5 amp push to reset circuit breaker. $90 total for parts, with a few SPST switches and breakers extra. I went with this detector as it looked to be the closest to the existing unit in the picture and it had the lowest advertised consumption in the price point at 85ma...however, looking at the MTI website right now shows it at 108mA. Either way, not much. Ended up being all most the exact same size as the old unit, close enough i didn't have to redrill for screws, just a slight angle. https://www.mtiindustries.com/product/35-series-flush-mount/
For some reason I couldn't find any of my strippers or crimpers or combos, or solder
so pliers and razor blade it is, ended up needing to redo about 3 connections as the project went on.And here it is all wired together. From the 12v battery supply to the "line" terminal of the 5 amp circuit breaker, then from the "load" on the CB to the "off" side of the switch (not that it matters) and from the "on" side of the switch both the Yellow for solenoid on and Red for power to detector. Solenoid is grounded through the chassis and the detector gets a new ground ran right to the battery (-) terminal, as it is right close by. This way I'm not leaving the detector on all the time (as it is intended) so that there is no concern of it going off when nobody is around
Drilled some 7/16" holes above in the plastic used to hold a fire extinguisher area to mount them, went 1" apart and 3/4" away from my solar charge controller. Because they are metric fittings and I drill standard, it was just tight enough in the plastic that I could "thread" both of them in.
and just because these both came with waterproof covers, I went ahead and put those on also
and proof that it all works
anyways, so there is just one way to skin the cat if you ever need to replace your 3 wire detector and cutoff solenoid controller with a 2 wire CO/LPG detector only.
