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LS freshen up?

ntaylor

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Member Number
1771
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98
Finally pulled the 5.3 out of the 1999 Chevy parts truck I have had sitting for years. My Stepdad bought it new in August of 98. It has a build date of 6/98. It was the first truck of this body style that I ever saw. I was going into my Senior year of High School and thought it was awesome. But anyway, Michigan winters took its toll on it and he gave it to me after I pointed out the big crack in the frame.


I think it has around 175k on it. I need to throw the cluster in one of my other trucks to verify. I have the engine on a stand and pulled one cylinder head so far. Bores look good and still show good crosshatch on them. Trying to decide how far to go with this thing. I plan to put it in my 89 K5 that gets drove randomly throughout the summer. Would like to put a bit of a cam in it. Thinking I can get away with cleaning it up and throwing a new gasket kit in it, and maybe an oil pump. Would I be better off going with a full rebuild with rings and bearings at the minimum? Thinking this. Amazon.com: Fel-Pro-BSE2601880 Engine Gasket Set, Full, GM LS-Series, Kit : Automotive

Anything else I should be doing while it is on the stand?
 
While you have it out, replace the barbell over the oil passage at the filter. For the cam I like BTR's truck cams. Do a new timing chain, valve springs and, rocker trunion upgrade with the cam. Check that the cam bearings haven't spun but don't fuck with them unless they have. Install a new cam retainer plate gasket and timing chain regardless of a cam swap or not. I run the melling HV pump (296 I think) in my 6.0, it's worth it. Mine has about 230K on it, still runs great.

The only reason to go into full rebuild is for scoring in the bores, spun cam/rod/main bearings. If you still have cross hatching, it'll go another 25k at least.
 
PurfsMcGurfs said:
While you have it out, replace the barbell over the oil passage at the filter. For the cam I like BTR's truck cams. Do a new timing chain, valve springs and, rocker trunion upgrade with the cam. Check that the cam bearings haven't spun but don't fuck with them unless they have. Install a new cam retainer plate gasket and timing chain regardless of a cam swap or not. I run the melling HV pump (296 I think) in my 6.0, it's worth it. Mine has about 230K on it, still runs great.

The only reason to go into full rebuild is for scoring in the bores, spun cam/rod/main bearings. If you still have cross hatching, it'll go another 25k at least.
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Pretty much what I was planning on. Except for the rocker trunion upgrade, hadn't seen that talked about much. I will look into it.

How about tuning? Thinking about buying HP tuners and trying to do it myself. I think I could get a tune from their repository that would give me a good starting point.
 
I agree, don’t let the magic out. Cam of your choice and a set of valve springs.

www.sloppymechanics.com

The Best Cam

*Update, we now have "Import" versions of the best cam as we tried to do before covid, now the proverbial boat has come in, and I can offer both. Please make sure you choose the correct Domestic or Import cam for your purchase Shipping Note: these cams are drop shipped for me, so they can take 3...
www.sloppymechanics.com
 
ntaylor said:
Pretty much what I was planning on. Except for the rocker trunion upgrade, hadn't seen that talked about much. I will look into it.

How about tuning? Thinking about buying HP tuners and trying to do it myself. I think I could get a tune from their repository that would give me a good starting point.
Click to expand...
Usually you would upgrade the trunion bearings if you want to spin it high rpm a lot (7k). Also helps with high lift cams and spring pressures. If you are willing to tune yourself, HP is great. Be conservative with timing and A/F ratios until you know what you are doing. Accuracy of a butt dyno to a chassis dyno can and does very. Plenty of aftermarket guys can get you a solid canned tune for a cam swap LS if you want to go that route. Call BTR, TSP, ETC. If they don't have one, they know someone who does.
 
Our work truck LS's have between 190k and 290k without so much as a hickup.

Run it.
 
What these guys said . Don’t fix what isn’t broke . Put it back together don’t tear it any further apart , cam , springs , lifters , pushrods and trunnion upgrade and drive the piss out of it .
 
When I did mine with 200k km on all I did was clean out the oil pan sludge, valve cover/ head sludge, check the 706 heads for cracks. All gaskets except the rear cover, didn't bother with the barbell. Heard a bunch of arguments for and against replacement, so I just left well enough alone (seems to be one of those, oh you have to do it cause so and so said so.)
Checked the bores for piston damage and crosshatch.
There is also a good argument against the HV, HP oil pump being too much unless you're really kitting it out. So a stock MELLING replacement went in.

Needed coil harnesses on both sides as they were pooched.

Knock sensors and harness.
 
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Winchested said:
There is also a good argument against the HV, HP fuel pump being too much unless you're really kitting it out. So a stock MELLING replacement went in.
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I'm assuming you mean oil pump. Mine had about 220K on it at the time. I went with the HV pump just because at this point, the bearings are good and worn. They include a stock relief spring if you want to retain stock pressure, I left mine high since the bypass is built into the pan. The only issue I have heard of is the pump can suck the pan low and cavitate. I suppose that is true in a hard cornering track car but, it isn't likely to be an issue on a trail rig at low speed. Some have said to add an extra quart, I don't bother. The pump also reduced the cold start lifter tick common on truck motors to nearly non-existent.

Either way, he can't go wrong with any new melling pump.
 
PurfsMcGurfs said:
I'm assuming you mean oil pump. Mine had about 220K on it at the time. I went with the HV pump just because at this point, the bearings are good and worn. They include a stock relief spring if you want to retain stock pressure, I left mine high since the bypass is built into the pan. The only issue I have heard of is the pump can suck the pan low and cavitate. I suppose that is true in a hard cornering track car but, it isn't likely to be an issue on a trail rig at low speed. Some have said to add an extra quart, I don't bother. The pump also reduced the cold start lifter tick common on truck motors to nearly non-existent.

Either way, he can't go wrong with any new melling pump.
Click to expand...
Yes sorry meant oil pump I'll fix that. But yep, think it was a Jake Burkey vid that said the the HV oil pump can cause more harm than good due to the starvation.

Don't quote me on him being the one that stated it. I've read if you drop the AFM on the later engines you get rid of the HV pump.
 
You're correct.

No need for an HV / HP pump unless you have race clearances. Easier to run the sump dry at high RPM with that too.
 
One thing I'll add is that I did center my pump. Used .002" shims. Its optional but, you're already there and it never hurts to have a perfectly centered oil pump before you torque it down.
 
PurfsMcGurfs said:
One thing I'll add is that I did center my pump. Used .002" shims. Its optional but, you're already there and it never hurts to have a perfectly centered oil pump before you torque it down.
Click to expand...

I didn't bother, there was plenty of slop even in a brand new pump to not warrant and worry.
 
wvracer821 said:
I agree, don’t let the magic out. Cam of your choice and a set of valve springs.

www.sloppymechanics.com

The Best Cam

*Update, we now have "Import" versions of the best cam as we tried to do before covid, now the proverbial boat has come in, and I can offer both. Please make sure you choose the correct Domestic or Import cam for your purchase Shipping Note: these cams are drop shipped for me, so they can take 3...
www.sloppymechanics.com
Click to expand...
Anyone running this cam yet?
 
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