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Log Splitter Help: Brand new splitter blew apart filter. Champion 27 Ton

budget76

budget76

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Edit: saving the reading: 3hrs later and it looks like we found the answer. The damn filter housing marked "to tank" is backwards. Flipping it around in the AM should resolve my issue, its probably got a check valve/bypass thing inside forcing all the pressure to the filter and not letting fluid to back into the tank

Can't return - bought "used" from an overstock reseller for ~70% of retail price knowing it was a small gamble. This splitter specifically 27-Ton Log Splitter - Champion Power Equipment

Bought the splitter "brand new", never seen a log on it but it'd run at some point. Engine started right up but it spewed fluid out the hyd filter. Noticed the filter was split (spin on) at the crimp, assumed it took a hit when loading or something and said thats an easy fix. Now I realize it didn't have a witness mark of impact, but instead the filter blew apart at the crimp from pressure. Never seen a filter blow apart before so it wasn't in my head at the time

Got it home, put on a new filter, filled the hydraulic fluid tank, and tried to start it up. Engine pulled easy the 1st pull, then like it was fighting compression the next 2-3. 3rd or 4th pull I created enough pressure in the system to blow apart the new filter. Clearly I was building up hyd pressure with the pull start attempts. I put on the cheaper filter I could get (Microguard instead of Manual-specified Wix) but I doubt that's the issue since the OEM filter blew apart before I bought it

Going to do more reading, but someone on here knows everything. Seems like something is plugged, but where do I start? Filter adapter? Control valve? Pump connections? Anything else I'm missing? Would prefer to pull apart as few connections as possible, but also don't want to blow apart another $6 or $12 filter if I can avoid it. Saved most of the fluid which is good

pics coming. ignore the plastic on the hose it just wasn't cut off yet
 
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by pass or pressure regulator sounds stuck, IDK shit about them, but somewhere a bypass spring is jammed. guessing.
 
Pull the element out of the failed filter. Let’s see what it looks like.

I don’t think that hyd filter should have a check valve in it. Just make sure if there are arrows on the filter housing they are pointed to the tank. Could have that put on backwards and it’s fighting a check valve in the filter itself.
 
Provience said:
100 psi sounds like way too much :rasta:
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That would be absolutely worst case. Canister filter should be able to take that all day. Now 2000 and we have a come apart.

I think dethmachine might be right about a check valve in there so you can change the filter without draining the entire tankful of oil, or it could have a standpipe to prevent it from draining also.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
That would be absolutely worst case. Canister filter should be able to take that all day. Now 2000 and we have a come apart.

I think dethmachine might be right about a check valve in there so you can change the filter without draining the entire tankful of oil.
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You thinking inlet and outlet on the filter housing reversed then?
 
Return line is blocked between filter and tank. Probably forgot to drill a hole in the tank or plugged it up somehow. Putting filter on backward, stuff reg valve, etc. wouldn't blow the filter.

Check valve idea doesn't make sense - the check valve would be on the outlet of the filter housing set up to prevent flow from tank back into filter. Hooked up backward it would be preventing flow from the hose into filter housing, and you'd be blowing out hoses, not the filter. Disconnect the line from the filter inlet, stick it into the tank and see if it works....
 
Thanks for the input. Glad we all agree main focus should be the filter housing/tee thing. Looks like it might come assembled to the tank from the factory, based on the manual assembly step pictures. Doesn't look like it'd be easy to put it backwards.

Thinking what is happening, agree? :
1. Pump pulls fluid from tank thru clear hose
2. Pump outputs fluid it into cylinder thru high pressure hose
3. Fluid flows thru cylinder/bypass to the filter housing thru low pressure hose
4. Fluid can't return to tank, so all the pressure goes to the filter, it gets too high, and it explodes

That'd explain why I only got about a gallon out when I pulled the filter off and let it drain and didn't see the tank drop at all. Either someone left a plug in there, there's a check valve somehow not letting flow thru, it's not drilled out, or something else

Sucks I filled the damn tank and have to drain it now, but it sounds easy enough to troubleshoot. And it makes me feel better it seems the ram/pump/valve are all probably fine

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No oil blew out the vented cap before the filter crapped out? As said above. Check filter housing direction and ports. Chinese filter could be just Chinese.
 
Chzbrgr said:
No oil blew out the vented cap before the filter crapped out? As said above. Check filter housing direction and ports. Chinese filter could be just Chinese.
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which vented cap? the tank cap/plug, B in this pic? Not that I noticed.

going to walk outside and see if the plug is actually vented, could an unvented tank cause pressure to build up in the filter? Kind of thinking it could?

it's blown 2 filters apart, so I'm skeptical its bad filter itself. 2nd filter I didn't take a pic, I smashed it closed enough to seal back up and stop leaking. one was OEM other was Oreilley cheap brand

1672444767377.png
 
budget76 said:
which vented cap? the tank cap/plug, B in this pic? Not that I noticed.

going to walk outside and see if the plug is actually vented, could an unvented tank cause pressure to build up in the filter? Kind of thinking it could?

it's blown 2 filters apart, so I'm skeptical its bad filter itself. 2nd filter I didn't take a pic, I smashed it closed enough to seal back up and stop leaking. one was OEM other was Oreilley cheap brand

1672444767377.png
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That little hole in the plug is a vent. Should have less capacity than the filter. It's a tank. Gotta vent.
 
Confirmed the tank cap/plug is vented and actually vents. Good 1/16" hole that is nice and clear

I think you guys are all onto something with check valve the wrong direction. That's target #1 tomorrow morning

thank you, Irate coming thru as always :smokin:
 
budget76 said:
Thanks for the input. Glad we all agree main focus should be the filter housing/tee thing. Looks like it might come assembled to the tank from the factory, based on the manual assembly step pictures. Doesn't look like it'd be easy to put it backwards.

Thinking what is happening, agree? :
1. Pump pulls fluid from tank thru clear hose
2. Pump outputs fluid it into cylinder thru high pressure hose
3. Fluid flows thru cylinder/bypass to the filter housing thru low pressure hose
4. Fluid can't return to tank, so all the pressure goes to the filter, it gets too high, and it explodes

That'd explain why I only got about a gallon out when I pulled the filter off and let it drain and didn't see the tank drop at all. Either someone left a plug in there, there's a check valve somehow not letting flow thru, it's not drilled out, or something else

Sucks I filled the damn tank and have to drain it now, but it sounds easy enough to troubleshoot. And it makes me feel better it seems the ram/pump/valve are all probably fine

1672443446641.png
Click to expand...
the parts diagram is much more useful.
shows the vlave body under there.
 

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While your checking that fitting for check valve orientation, make sure the welded black bung has a hole to the tank.
There is a line of transmission filters that are the same size and thread pitch as those hydraulic filters. Make sure your getting hydraulic filters and not tranny filters.
 
Eliminate the filter assembly and hook the return hose directly back up to the tank using the fitting on the housing. If: (a) the tank hole isn't drilled out you will know for sure, and (b) this will tell you if that filter housing is the culprit.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Eliminate the filter assembly and hook the return hose directly back up to the tank using the fitting on the housing. If: (a) the tank hole isn't drilled out you will know for sure, and (b) this will tell you if that filter housing is the culprit.
Click to expand...
this will be the plan if nothing glaring stands out with the filter assy when I pull it apart
 
Just looked at one of mine and there is a bypass on it. So if it's reversed you will have problems. Should be a directional arrow on the housing.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Just looked at one of mine and there is a bypass on it. So if it's reversed you will have problems. Should be a directional arrow on the housing.
Click to expand...

just went outside in my pajamas and sure as shit, the "to the tank" arrow is pointing away from the tank :homer::laughing:

easy fix tomorrow, gonna be more of a pain in the ass to avoid losing a bunch of fluid than actually flipping the thing around.

It looks like Irate has solved this one:grinpimp:
 
the bypass in the filter base is generally just to bypass the filter itself

though if the filter has an anti-drainback valve in it I could see it blocking reverse flow
similar if the reverse-flow blows the element out of the can and jams it into the filter base, that'd restrict flow too...
 
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