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Loctite stronger than red

Slander

Slander

Team no stickys
Joined
May 28, 2020
Member Number
1632
Messages
3,301
Loc
Hickory, NC
My Toyota cases keep spitting out mount bolts. I have red loctited them, they still loosen up and fall out, I even tried tack welding them and they broke the weld and spun. What's stronger than red loctite that I can use on these?
 
1660315978636.jpeg

Google turned up this.
 
Thanks for that chart! I wonder if my dual cases are heating up and melting whatever I put on it.
 
how do you have it mounted, mine has been in for 4 years or more and never loosen up, and one of the 8 bolts is kinda stripped out

and are you talking about the 4 bolts here like 13 mm socket if i recall or the big bolts that this mounts to tcase

1660316983408.png
 
Big bolts that mount to the case itself using a stock rubber mount on the rear most case. I used to have one like you have posted there mounted to only the trans (Tacomas are different than minis) and it also spit bolts out like crazy. Since moving it to the rear it generally stopped loosening bolts, but it started again recently.
 
Bolts broke tack weld ???

You may have an issue with your mount itself, not with the bolts.

Post pics of your mounts.
 
Stage 8 can you find something here that might work. i used there shit for my dana 60 rear and nope never backs out now.

they may not have the exact kit but maybe something will work

something like this

1660318521953.png
 
Bebop said:
Bolts broke tack weld ???

You may have an issue with your mount itself, not with the bolts.

Post pics of your mounts.
Click to expand...
After the tack weld broke that's when I moved it to the rear most case and went back to factory rubber. Haven't had an issue for a few years, then the last trip out I saw the bolts loosened back up and one fell out. I'll find a pic and post, but it looks like evrey other Toyota factory tcase mount mounted a trail gear dual case crossmember.
 
Slander said:
Yup those bolts
Click to expand...
When threaded holes get used/worn out it can be difficult to keep bolts tight in them, I've seen this a lot over the years, especially in AL. I would probably heli-coil those holes and then install brand new Toyota/not home depot bolts with lock tight and proper torque.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
you may have another mount counter acting this mount and something is giving. who knows but pics would be cool
Click to expand...
Yea that's what I thought was originally happening after I broke that tack weld. Below is the pic where it used to be and was like that for almost 6yrs. That's mounted to the trans, first case is to the left of that mount/on the trans jack for reference
IMG_20171125_195736371.jpg

Here's the "new" setup (3yrs old now), factory rubber, mounted to the rear most case and all the shafts now properly in phase, unlike how they were previously
IMG_20171127_211527679.jpg

I don't have a pic of it bolted to the case, but imagine a Toyota gear drive case sitting on there. Factory rubber motor mounts, new, unchained, I need to do that.
 
Not a Toyota guy, but maybe you need a torque arm. Offset bushing to keep the drive train from twisting. I made one up for my Explorer after it torqued (pulled) the transmission to transfer case bolts out of the transmission housing. I now have a Atlas II so more torque than before and no issues. When installing the Atlas, I made a much stronger cross member and used three puck type poly bushings with one offset.
 
crazybluerider said:
When threaded holes get used/worn out it can be difficult to keep bolts tight in them, I've seen this a lot over the years, especially in AL. I would probably heli-coil those holes and then install brand new Toyota/not home depot bolts with lock tight and proper torque.
Click to expand...
I like that idea

That and safety wiring the bolts.
 
BDK said:
Not a Toyota guy, but maybe you need a torque arm. Offset bushing to keep the drive train from twisting. I made one up for my Explorer after it torqued (pulled) the transmission to transfer case bolts out of the transmission housing. I now have a Atlas II so more torque than before and no issues. When installing the Atlas, I made a much stronger cross member and used three puck type poly bushings with one offset.
Click to expand...
Do you have pics of this or a link to the build thread where you built it?
 
Cross member. Lower bushings fit inside. Mounts angled so it can't fall out even if the bolts come out. Skid plate bolts into the weld nuts, which also keeps the trans mount bolts from ever falling out. Still takes about 10 minutes to remove skid plates and cross member.
20190918_182903.jpg


Torque arm mounted. It's wrapped with 1/8" flat bar to give it rigidity and also as a heat shield for the bushing.
20190919_141713.jpg

I have a Advanced Adaptors Adaptor from a 700R4 to the Atlas. It is thick and has a large mount so I used that.
 
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Try the nord locks. Your local fastenal should stock them. I have found they work so good i stock them from 1/4” to 1 1/4” in size. About $350 worth to fill my tray:homer:.

When your loosening them up they actually go bang before they come loose. They are awesome. Had some 1” bolts coming loose on a crusher. Could not keep them tight to save my life. I haven’t touched them in the 3 years since I put the nord locks on:smokin:.

www.nord-lock.com

Nord-Lock Washers

Wedge-locking security for bolted joints subjected to extreme vibration and dynamic loads
www.nord-lock.com www.nord-lock.com
 
I have the nord locks on my beadlocks, they are badass, I'll pick some up. That mount also has my brain going.
 
This is my SAS and build thread I started about nine years ago on the Explorer Forum. It goes through all the mods I have made since then to current, and all the redos of mistakes I made along the way.

Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for...
www.explorerforum.com www.explorerforum.com

First version of cross member is here, starting with post # 2311

Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for...
www.explorerforum.com www.explorerforum.com

Latest version with torque arm starts with post # 2354

Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for...
www.explorerforum.com www.explorerforum.com

The skid plates in the post above that have also been redone. Too much weight, too much retained heat raised transmission temps.

Everything I have done to the drivetrain and mounts has had making it easier to remove in mind. I can get the skid plates and two cross members out in about ten minutes. I can pull the transfer case in about 30 minutes. I think the hardest part of pulling the t-case would be getting it separated from the adaptor because I really sealed it in there. I showed what I did to my transmission guy when we were discussing prices on pulling and going through the transmission, and he said it would cut a few hours out of his shop time, especially if I had the skid plate out when I bring it in. He thinks he could pull the transmission in less than an hour. I offered to pull the transfer case and tow it in there, but he says it would make it hard to test drive that way.
 
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Helicoil the holes, get some good studs. Nordlock and torque. End of problem.
 
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