What's new
By:
Filters

Lockout Options Question

CDA 455 II

CDA 455 II

ANFAQUE2
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
25
Messages
4,050
Loc
No Country For Old Men
I'm in the beginning stages (research/finding one) of doing a 1ton front axle swap.

I'm going to use a '05+ Ford Dana 60.


My question involves lockout hubs and pucks.

I'm thinking of putting in a spool and having one side a lockout hub and the other side a puck.

If I do decide to go this route:
WHAT SIDE WOULD I WANT THE PUCK ON?
 
TrailTamer said:
but why? just put both lockout hubs on. lol
Click to expand...

This. I broke a hub and had a slug in one side and a hub on the the other with a welded diff. It sucks. I would strongly recommend against a spool up front. Even running with one hub unlocked it causes odd steering behavior and tends to pull.
 
I run a welded front without hubs, phased the u-joints and run hydro assist. I've put a lot of dirt road miles with no weird steering habits other than a horrible turning radius. I think phasing the u joints made a big difference.

If you drive on the street you'll probably want to disregard my input
 
CDA 455 II said:
/
So that's the extent of deciding? :laughing: :grinpimp:
Click to expand...

I believe that the short side breaks first/ more often. EX: my chevy broke the passenger side doing 4wd holeshots on pavement. Next I broke it again pulling out a tree while on pavement. Third your driver hub was messed up while driving on pavement.
 
TrailTamer said:
but why? just put both lockout hubs on. lol
Click to expand...

'84 Bronco II said:
This. I broke a hub and had a slug in one side and a hub on the the other with a welded diff. It sucks. I would strongly recommend against a spool up front. Even running with one hub unlocked it causes odd steering behavior and tends to pull.

Doesn't having ANY KIND of front locking diff cause odd steering behavior? Even limited slips?
Click to expand...
DISCLAIMER:
This is a learning process for me. If I ask questions it's because I don't know. :emb:


You guy's have been around long enough at the other site to know different combo's of how one locks the front axle have been discussed over the years.

Different theories and philosophies on what a good locking axle set up should be.


One of the train of thoughts/philosophy is having one locked front wheel/tire while the other is unlocked.

So; with a locked rear axle, you have three wheels/tires.

There's apparently no binding because one wheel/tire is rotating freely while the locked one is rotating with the locked diff.


Since I play in the snow in the Winter; I don't want a fully locked front axle.
 
Hyde said:
I run a welded front without hubs, phased the u-joints and run hydro assist. I've put a lot of dirt road miles with no weird steering habits other than a horrible turning radius. I think phasing the u joints made a big difference.

If you drive on the street you'll probably want to disregard my input
Click to expand...

Fellow potatohead! :flipoff2: :beer:


Can you please expand of the "phasing the U-joints" point?


BTW; my offroading takes place from basically the Snake River in Southern Idaho to just North of McCall/central Idaho.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Fellow potatohead! :flipoff2: :beer:


Can you please expand of the "phasing the U-joints" point?


BTW; my offroading takes place from basically the Snake River in Southern Idaho to just North of McCall/central Idaho.
Click to expand...

I'd like to wheel down there, I've ridden most of it on motorcycles but never wheeled.

As far as phasing joints it's just like a driveshaft, make sure the yoke ears are in line with each other on both sides so they don't bind and fight the other side while turning. Only applies to welded diffs or spools because they never unlock
 
CDA 455 II said:
One of the train of thoughts/philosophy is having one locked front wheel/tire while the other is unlocked.
Click to expand...

Assuming no diff. in Tcase: when in 4WD, the slug-side front will rotate at the same speed as both rears.
Turning radius & manners will still be funky., likely sketchy at speed, and would still bind when traction is good.

Maybe that would be OK w/ a posi, Torsen diff, or selectable locker up front, but not a welded diff or spool.
If street driven, I'd just run 2 good lockouts.
 
ExWrench said:
Assuming no diff. in Tcase: when in 4WD, the slug-side front will rotate at the same speed as both rears.
Turning radius & manners will still be funky., likely sketchy at speed, and would still bind when traction is good.

Maybe that would be OK w/ a posi, Torsen diff, or selectable locker up front, but not a welded diff or spool.
If street driven, I'd just run 2 good lockouts.
Click to expand...


Fuck......maybe I'll just install a Detroit locker and lockouts and be done with it.


I was looking at Trutrac, but they don't recommend tires over 33" with their product.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Since I play in the snow in the Winter; I don't want a fully locked front axle.
Click to expand...

OK, so... I've done the front spool thing before.
One hub locked in 4WD is the most suck you can have with that. On the gas it yanks to one side, off the gas, it drags to the other side, and if you're doing this on a slick road where you actually want to keep going the direction you're pointed, good luck. Doing this in traffic on such a road, is worse. I strongly recommend against the one-hub thing, either go full slug and eat the tires (bad) and the dry handling (worse) or put locking hubs on both sides.
Both hubs locked and 4WD just goes straight. Or if you have a sidehill, it goes downhill in the direction you're powering, but not often in the direction you're steering. It's less bad in 2WD, but still pretty bad.
If you can front dig, this is better. It's a "driving a midengine sports car in the snow" level of better, but it's better. You have to be on your game driving that, but it can be a blast. The line between excitement and terror is thin and blurry. Both hubs locked, and kick the rear in and out as you need more traction/push but when you want to steer, kick the rear out, drag the brakes a bit, and throttle the front end to make it go where you want.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Fuck......maybe I'll just install a Detroit locker and lockouts and be done with it.


I was looking at Trutrac, but they don't recommend tires over 33" with their product.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother with a LS up front. They never work as well on the trail as you think they will.
 
That's fine for a trail rig, but if your going to drive at speed it's pretty terrible.
Buy a locker or leave it open.
 
I run the trutrac in my bronco TTB on 37s with 4.56 gears. Works fantastic and has held up for now going on 16 years. Does good in snow and such.

Return the OX and get a ford E-locker for the 10.5. You can find them new for about 600 bucks. Then spend the other 400 on something for the front. I bought one for my 88 f 250 crawler project.
 
CDA 455 II said:
How about a Detroit locker up front?



I've only had experience with them in the rear axle.
Click to expand...

An automatic locker (Detroit, Grizzly, Lock Right, Spartan, etc.) works fine up front. It will just tend to push though while you are trying to turn on loose surfaces in 4WD. On the street it will be fine with either slugs or hubs as long as you aren't in 4 High. If you so do the automatic locker route, I'd go with a Grizzly over a Detroit. They are usually a bit cheaper and won't grenade if you break a shaft or U-joint like a Detroit will. However, If you are wanting to drive around in 4 high on ice and snow, the automatic locker wont be much better than a spool/welded diff. If driving on snow and ice is a concern, I'd highly recommend going selectable lockers front and rear.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
An automatic locker (Detroit, Grizzly, Lock Right, Spartan, etc.) works fine up front. It will just tend to push though while you are trying to turn on loose surfaces in 4WD. On the street it will be fine with either slugs or hubs as long as you aren't in 4 High. If you so do the automatic locker route, I'd go with a Grizzly over a Detroit. They are usually a bit cheaper and won't grenade if you break a shaft or U-joint like a Detroit will. However, If you are wanting to drive around in 4 high on ice and snow, the automatic locker wont be much better than a spool/welded diff.

If driving on snow and ice is a concern, I'd highly recommend going selectable lockers front and rear.
Click to expand...

/
Since I'm thinking of putting an OX in the rear axle; I should also put a cable-actuated OX in the front as well?
 
Bigblue 94 said:
Return the OX and get a ford E-locker for the 10.5. You can find them new for about 600 bucks. Then spend the other 400 on something for the front. I bought one for my 88 f 250 crawler project.
Click to expand...

+1. I was going to go Ox, then Ford dropped the Elockers to $485 +s/h. Hard to argue.

Now I'm thinking Elocker for the front 60. 10 years from now, I'm not going to care if I saved $500 (detroit), but I'll still enjoy the switch.

Screenshot_20190506-121443_Firefox(3).jpg
 
subybaja said:
+1. I was going to go Ox, then Ford dropped the Elockers to $485 +s/h. Hard to argue.

Now I'm thinking Elocker for the front 60. 10 years from now, I'm not going to care if I saved $500 (detroit), but I'll still enjoy the switch.

Click to expand...

Hmmm...

My 1ton is an '87 Sterling 10.25 dually 35 spline.

That particular locker is said to be for a SRW.


It also states that it's a LS too? :confused:


I'm definitely open to an Elocker being in the front.
 
Thats because IIRC the duallys were all D80 by that point.
That locker is supposed to fit into the 10.25 just fine, altho i dont yet know what anyone has done about swapping the tone ring onto it. I kinda want one for my 96, once i know the tone ring will work.
 
reptillikus said:
Thats because IIRC the duallys were all D80 by that point.
That locker is supposed to fit into the 10.25 just fine, altho i dont yet know what anyone has done about swapping the tone ring onto it. I kinda want one for my 96, once i know the tone ring will work.
Click to expand...

Kingfish999 over at FSB put one in his sterling 10.25 already. He has a thread about it
 
i didnt realize he ever actually installed it. With the stupid new forum software i lost track of all sorts of good threads. I guess it does fit, once you make a notch for the tone ring. Seems simple enough to do.
 
CDA 455 II said:
I'm going to install a cable-actuated OX rear locker. :grinpimp:



Installing one up front is definitely an option; but at $1,000 still sitting in a box....:eek:
Click to expand...

I would recommend the reverse of this. Selectable in the front and auto in the rear. Its the best of your options by far unless you plan to go all selectable.
 
Mines's in my '95 Sterling. Fit exactly like the OEM carrier. I did have to Dremel a notch in the carrier for the tone ring index tab.

20200414_224708.jpg



20200414_225238.jpg


20200415_181454.jpg
 
Factory e-locker from ~08+. There was a thread on the other site.

when I swap my axles in, I'm planning on factory elocker in the back, and warn lockouts up front. If I can find a reasonable selectable locker for the front, I'll do that as well.

It's a tow rig though, not really a wheeler.
 
Pt_Ranger_v8 said:
Factory e-locker from ~08+. There was a thread on the other site.

when I swap my axles in, I'm planning on factory elocker in the back, and warn lockouts up front. If I can find a reasonable selectable locker for the front, I'll do that as well.

It's a tow rig though, not really a wheeler.
Click to expand...

I believe its 2011 and up, not '08. I could be wrong though
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh