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locking shop door diy hard core

I’ve always wanted a trip wire that sets off a fog machine, strobes, and then a speaker comes on at about 150 dB…


 
PAE said:
The bar is a good design but should be on a door that opens out and the bar should be on the inside made of steel not a 2x4.
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That “bar” is obviously a steel channel. if you put it on the inside, how do you open it?
 
From the inside, I have the same setup use the roll up door to gain access.


WaterH said:
That “bar” is obviously a steel channel. if you put it on the inside, how do you open it?
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WaterH said:
That “bar” is obviously a steel channel. if you put it on the inside, how do you open it?
Click to expand...
Inside door bar hinged on one side and have a cable and pulley system that will lift it up from the outside. Could do it with an electric winch, or hell a small cylinder and a hand pump and do it hydraulically...

Or even have the hinged side use a bolt as the hinge pin that is welded to the square tube that you use as the door bar. This bolt could extend through the wall and a wrench or tire iron or something to that effect could be used to raise it up and lower it down. If you made it not super obvious most people would overlook it.
 
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PAE said:
From the inside, I have the same setup use the roll up door to gain access.
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I guess, but it kind of sucks to use the roll up door. Especially if you got heat or AC running.

billybob_81067 said:
Inside door bar hinged on one side and have a cable and pulley system that will lift it up from the outside. Could do it with an electric winch, or hell a small cylinder and a hand pump and do it hydraulically...

Or even have the hinged side use a bolt as the hinge pin that is welded to the square tube that you use as the door bar. This bolt could extend through the wall and a wrench or tire iron or something to that effect could be used to raise it up and lower it down. If you made it not super obvious most people would overlook it.
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That’s pretty cool idea. If they did open it, probably someone you know.
 
Could use a lock box on the outside like a knox box with a switch on the inside.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
upgrading door is cool but what are options to keep door jam from being kicked in, or just a solid dead bolt into a metal jam will keep most people honest, hmmm...
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Good dead bolt plus a good lock, shim between the door casing and the frame solid, then use 4" deck screws into the 2x frame around the door.
Do the same for the hinges.
That won't stop someone serious, but it will help keep the honest people honest.

Aaron Z
 
billybob_81067 said:
Could do it with an electric winch, or hell a small cylinder and a hand pump and do it hydraulically...
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I know I've seen some heist movie where they had to pump up the door to retract the bolts.

Speaking of- quit screwing around. Only $22K:

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WaterH said:
The bolt could disable the shotgun pointing at the door with a string to the trigger .
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Guy in my hometown had that along with a bunch of other traps. He apparently forgot about it and died.
Took LE a week to clear the house.
 
WaterH said:
How about bars on the windows first?

Edit, outside swing leaves the hinges vernable. Just upgrade the door.
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Every thief in the country has a sawzall these days for cutting the catalytic converters off trucks. They will pick a place and cut a hole in your building.

The lock just keeps honest people honest. Anything beyond a standard lock is about pointless these days.
 
AKnate said:
Guy in my hometown had that along with a bunch of other traps. He apparently forgot about it and died.
Took LE a week to clear the house.
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I always think stories of people getting prosecuted for this type of behavior is urban legend UNTIL I SAW SOMEONE GET PROSECUTED. It was up in Huntsville, They guy had a shotgun hooked to a window, thief raised window, shotgun took thieves head off, shop owner went to fuck you in the ass prison for it.
 
grumpy356 said:
Every thief in the country has a sawzall these days for cutting the catalytic converters off trucks. They will pick a place and cut a hole in your building.

The lock just keeps honest people honest. Anything beyond a standard lock is about pointless these days.
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There really is no need to cut anything, a 5/16 hex driver In a drill just unscrews the bottom of the sheets creating as big of a hole as needed, and fairly quietly compared to sawing sheet metal.
 
CarterKraft said:
There really is no need to cut anything, a 5/16 hex driver In a drill just unscrews the bottom of the sheets creating as big of a hole as needed, and fairly quietly compared to sawing sheet metal.
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one can not just simply undo the metal siding and gain entrance, they will have to cut through 2x10 and 2x4 walls with 6 inches of insulation and plywood then get past this cat who goes by Frenchie..... i feel for anyone or anything that tangles with Frenchie. :)

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A steel door that opens outwards is a good start. Then weld a frame around the door to make sure it can not be pryed open with a bar.
Make some steel grates that cover the windows, but have a way to release them easily from the inside of the building so you get out if you need.
Anyways, I have a 18v makita grinder and a cut off wheel.....cost me $129 with a free battery to break into your shop. :flipoff2:
 
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